Adsibob

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Adsibob last won the day on October 16

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  1. I guess. There's nothing like real world experience in my view. That's why apprenticeships are so important. Have trainee HP specifiers and installers working under the tutelage of a seasoned pro for 6 months at least before letting them out on their own. Or separate the industry into specifiers and installers... but apprenticeships still essential in my view.
  2. So maybe this is the issue for me. I don’t really have space for a large buffer tank. I am getting around the short cycling issue with my gas setup by going for a boiler that can modulate down to one seventeenth of its maximal output, so about 1.84kw, and running a towel rad “to infinity”, as @Nickfromwales put it, whenever the UFH is on, as was suggested on this thread. Would the same workaround work with ASHP? I am future proofing here, so Can assume someimprovement in thetechnology. In the same way that the modulation of gas boilers has got broader in range as technology has advanced, I would expect that over the next 12-15 years, ASHP will develop much broader modulation as well.
  3. They should make a government backed installer scheme, with a rigorous training and certification stage, such that to train as a registered government approved installer, you need to pass a difficult exam. If your installer passes the exam but then goes on to make a significant error on the installation, the government reimburses you out of a fund that is contributed to, at least in part, by the installer certification scheme.
  4. So are you saying that as long as I ask my plumber to use 28mm to connect from boiler to UFH system (I think that is what you were referring to when you said “manifolds and valves”) and I keep those 28mm pipes to 10m or less, it should be fairly straightforward to switch to HP? What about hot water requirements - any difference in the way a cylinder is connected when you switch to HP? What’s this I hear about buffers?
  5. I first looked into heat pumps about 12 months ago, then again 6 months ago. Concluded it wasn’t for me, largely due to insufficient government support making it far more expensive to install than a gas boiler. However the recent news has made me think about what I will do when the gas boiler we are about to install dies in 15 or so years’ time. The above discussion on pipe size seems focused on pipe size required for a rad based system. But what about in a house where insulation levels are okay ish and the whole house has been set up with 16mm diameter UFH pipes. On the ground floor these are laid at 180mm centres. Are there any changes I could make to my gas boiler installation now, that will make the switch to HP easier in 15 years’ time? E.g. oversizing the diameter of certain pipes? If so, which ones?
  6. they have got "noticed" so people know their name, but I still bet very very few know what they actually want to happen I know the public is pretty ignorant about these things, but surely the average Joe can work out what Insulate Britain stands for.
  7. Interesting, there appears to be as many views on this as there are days of the week. What I find curious is that particularly in a house such as mine where apart from a couple of towel heaters, there are no radiators, as it’s all UFH; and where the morning hot water requirements for three or four showers could be met by heating the 300L cylinder at 3:30am in the morning, when the UFH will be off, is it likely that the heating in the house will suffer if we give the cylinder priority over the UFH? UFH takes a while to cool down, so surely even in the depths of winter, and even in a house such as mine which only has half decent insulation (nothing close to passive), it can be switched off for an hour a couple of times a day to provide hot water priority to the cylinder. If that is the case, then I don’t see why I would need any extra for the hot water cylinder, but maybe I’m missing something.
  8. I should clarify that the team of 5 will extend to 7 when plumbing/boiler and electrics eventually happens, in that there is a separate gas engineer/plumber and a separate sparky. But the core team of 5 have done everything so far including tiling the roof, building a loft conversion and two story extension, GRP and some stud work and v. basic plumbing. E.g. they laid the UFH and installed and pressurised the UFH pipes on the ground floor, and did a very nice job of it: as for guttering - some bespoke gutters, like for the back extension - have gone in. And the soil pipes do lead to the correct manholes, but all the drainage passages are still exposed and lots of gutters and drainpipes still to be done.
  9. It’s been a while since I posted, so thought I’d update you/seek more advice/empathy: in my last post I mentioned that in the second week of September my builder gave me a new end date of 18 Dec, but that he advertised it was actually doubtful whether he would make it. When I asked why, he said “lead times”. Note he did not mention labour supply shortages, and as far as I can see this has not been an issue for him; with the exception of September when one of his guys returned about 10 dates late from his summer break, all of his time have pretty much been on site since January and at the beginning they even had a few extra guys doing demolition work. I am actually responsible for supplying almost all supplies to site. I did it this way because on my last build our builder went bust mid way through - this way I have title to the goods and can also pay by credit card. As I have been really organised, apart from a slight shortage of wood fibre which we experienced and a long delay in getting roof tiles, lead times haven’t held us back. Also, when he told me in Sept that he wasn’t confident about making the new end date because of lead times, I was a little confused because he isn’t really responsible for ordering that much more. The only thing he still has to buy was the UFH gear, including Cellecta XFLO boards, some 6mm rubber matting, plasterboards and plaster and some soundproofing stuff and insulation. I appreciate that many of those things are in short supply but that aspect of the spec hasn’t changed since the outset of the job, the contract for which we signed in December. The property is large, we have been water tight for a month now, and there are three floors. Although screed had to go down on the ground floor a couple of weeks ago, plenty of space on the upper floors to store stuff if necessary. Anyway, 5.5 weeks after the 18 December finish date and the new schedule was given to me, I can see we are already 2-3 weeks behind on this new date. The original date was 28 Aug. The second date was end of September. The 18 December date is clearly PIR in the sky. Although the structural work, loft and subfloors are very much done now, and UKPN and Octopus have moved our supply to where we needed it, we still have to: - install UFH on two upper floors - install boiler, UVC and commission UFH heating and boiler - plasterboard and skim all the stud wall and ceilings - do ALL the electrics - do ALL the plumbing - install and tile 3.5 bathrooms - install rather large kitchen - finish the patio - lay new hard standing and pave driveway - finish external drainage which is only partly done - lay floor finishes - paint walls (though about half will be left nude as we are using decorative plaster on those). That is about 12 items. How long can it take for a team of 5 fairly hardworking guys to finish all that? Is 12 weeks realistic? Allowing two weeks off for XMAS would take us to around 26th Jan, which is about 5 weeks later than his dubious 18 Dec date. There are a few things he is not doing and which other third party contractors are doing, like the floor finish in most of the ground floor, the staircase installation, the kitchen cupboard doors, various other joinery items and the kitchen worktops, which takes some pressure off him, but I’m seriously concerned this project is going to spillover into the spring. We were recently told by our landlords (who also happen to be my inlaws) that we need to vacate the property we are living in at the moment before the end of November, so it’s all getting rather ridiculous. oh and did I mention we are £70k over budget, which is £40k over our £30k contingency? What a mess…
  10. I would increase insulation by 20% or even 25%. May save you a bit of heating costs in the long term.
  11. Not sure I follow. Is your logic that if there was a fire there would be an investigation and you could get in trouble for not having building regs? If you are the landlord of the property, but not the occupier, I agree that is a legitimate concern. Otherwise, I’m less sure.
  12. So in that case it would make sense to pay off my credit cards in full and then max them out again. I just haven't been bothering because they are 0% cards. My credit score is 743/999 according to Experian, which gets an amber colour on their scale below. No idea what "fair" means.