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@TonyT do you own a Netatmo doorbell? If so, are you happy with it?

I think both with the Netatmo automation you can control both opening and closing of the roller shutter and of the window. So if I've understood it correctly (and that's a big IF right now): at night we could go to bed with the roller shutter open (as there is no solar gain after 1pm on that side of the house) and the window open as it would be desirable to have ventilation over night we could set it to close the roller shutter and close the window at sunrise. What would be particularly good if there is sufficiently detailed control to allow the roller shutter to close at sunrise, but the window to remain slightly open, so ventilation continues until the outside temperature reaches a certain level. For that, I need someone who owns this setup to volunteer their experience.

@JohnMo you make me laugh. That's not automation. That's do it yourself. We like to have the ventilation from the velux at night and I'm not getting up at the crack of dawn to close the roller shutters and close the window. Will research how reliable Netatmo for Velux is. We have good wifi so I'd be surprised if there was an issue, but you never know.

Thanks @Russdl. Yes, I currently try and do this and have external temperature data from our Brink Flair 400 MVHR machine which I use for deciding when to do that. The issue I will have is how to integrate that temperature data for automating this. Velux smart kit Netatmo can apparently speak to Apple Homekit so that may be one option (although I don't currently use Apple Homekit, I could given I'm an iphone user and have other mac devices as well). Another possibility is to rely on the Netatmo's ability to consult local weather forecasts, though I do wonder whether those are accurate enough. Anyone have any experience with automation of these windows/blinds through Velux Netatmo?

Hi @Omnibuswoman, also wondering whether you ever made this decision? My understanding is that the advantages of the roller blind is it excludes 90% to 95% of the solar gain, whereas the awning only does about 75%, but the disadvantage of the roller blind is that when the roller blind is closed to block out the heat the amount you can open it for ventilation is severely restricted. You can still get a little ventilation, but not much. Both my velux roof windows are east facing, so solar gain is mainly an issue from an hour or so after sunrise until about noon or 1pm. So maybe I should go for the roller shutter, and automate it with the Netatmo thingy to shut out the sun completely from sunrise to 1pm, then open up completely to provide ventilation. But it's quite a big decision, so curious to know whether you made it and how you've found it.

But isn’t the regular HEx good for keeping the house damp free in regular conditions, ie when not using air con.Or with the enthalpy HEx, can you set the target RH% ?

But I wasn’t planning on using the Air Comfort to cool the air - that’s why I’m confused. I’m just using it to add moisture. You are right though, that the marketing docs don’t appear to say anything about moisture addition

I'm a little confused by the reference to ASHP and the temperature of the water connected to the Air Comfort unit. We don't have ASHP. We heat our home with a gas boiler. That said, I did plumb in the larger diameter pipes for our underfloor heating system with the idea that eventually, when hopefully ASHP is more affordable and less bulky we could install that, but I still have 9 year warranty left on my boiler, so aren't exploring those options at the moment. The change I'm proposing is to simultaneously install two things: A split AC unit such as a 2.5kW Daikin Stylish in our bedroom; and A Brink Air Comfort unit simply to add moisture to the air when the air con unit is running, because otherwise my understanding is that combination of AC and MVHR is air that is too dry to be comfortable for those with sensitivities to these things. So my question was whether installing a Brink Air Comfort unit is feasible when installed on just one duct in a house, as opposed to the whole system. It should in theory be possible to just add moisture to the room with AC, given that room has its own dedicated duct from the MVHR, but the Brink Air Comfort will add resistance and that will surely impact the pressure and noise of the air supply. But maybe there are simple workarounds. Alternatively, we could add the Brink Air Comfort to the whole MVHR system, as this would add moisture to the air in the whole house. That is not terrible I suppose as we won't run the air con all the time. Probably just for 90 minutes before we go to bed to get the room to temp and then through the night to keep it at temperature.

I have a Brink Flair 400 MVHR system. We've had it for about 2.5 years and been happy with it. No issues really. We have lots of solar gain problems in the house. Despite specifying SN70/30 glass for most windows, this has not been enough. We have a fair amount of glazing and the house overheats from about May to September. Whilst we are looking to retrofit other options including external shutters on some veluxes and perhaps on some west facing windows, an appealling fix for our master bedroom is to install air con so that we can at least bring the temp to below 20C at night. A downside of this however is that it will dry our bedroom, given that MVHR already brings the RH down to 40% to 49% (and usually closer to the bottom of that range). One solution is to install the Brink Air Comfort module. According to ChatGPT: What Brink Air Comfort Does Adds moisture (via cold water evaporation) to the supply air of your MVHR system. This humidified air is then delivered to every room with a supply vent, not just the bedroom. The system runs based on: Indoor humidity sensors Outdoor air humidity User-set targets (e.g. 40–45% RH) It works with an inline unit which oridinarily is placed into the incoming inlet for the whole house. I'm considering doing it just for the bedroom duct. Anyone see an issue with this? It would impact pressure which is not ideal. Need to think how to resolve that and whether it will add noise, also not ideal.

Just tell the window surveyor that you have super powers enabling you to see through the door.

I don’t think this can be right. MVHR will not cool your house.

It’s possible that this problem has been happening for a while, and I’ve only just realised. That said, I have now unplugged everything that was plugged into that homeplug (there was actually an extension lead plugged into it, and two low draw things were plugged into the extension lead: a zone valve and the TP-Link switch powering the two ring cameras). if this doesn’t fix it, I will try @LiamJones’s suggestion.

thanks. Yes that's a good idea. Doesn't make sense for it to be the rings. The switch and the homeplug is in a boiler cupboard, so maybe they've overheated? That said, most of the stuff in there is insulated and I can't imagine the temperature rises to much above 40C. I will do that tonight. Just paranoid as I'm not home now and these cameras are covering the side of the house where our house was broken into from (which prompted me to purchase the cameras in the first place).

So having raved about this a couple of weeks ago, I am now having some problems with two of my three ring PoE cameras. It appears to be dropping the connection, despite these being hard wired via PoE. I rebooted the Ubiquiti router and that fixed the issue, but the fix only lasted 10 minutes. Now the issues is happening again. My third Ring PoE is not affected by this issue. The only difference between the one that is working and the two that are not is that the one that is working is wired directly into the ubquiti router, whereas the two that are not working are wired into a switch which is wired into a homeplug that is plugged into the wall. Whilst that may not sound optimal, it's worked without problem since I installed it some 3 months ago. Both the homeplug and the switch are made by TP-Link which is usually a reliable brand, so I'm not sure what's happening.