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1) the insulation needs to go down to at least the bottom of your floor insulation. If you have room to go lower then do it. But there is no point of over insulating cavity walls to an area that is served by air bricks giving cold air flow beneath your floors. 2)no gaps around the cavity trays or anywhere else. 3) ideally protect with a roll of DPC on top of the wall, use a cavity tray roll to do this in one continual piece for each elevation. Try to plan the works so that the internal and external skins finish at the same height before covering. This is a pain in the butt if it rains during the day. You will need to weigh this down well. When it rains quite often the wind gets up. You will not always succeed in keeping the insulation dry but you will also not succeed in getting a 100% perfect build. At least you have made an effort. 4) wall ties need to penetrate the insulation at reveals where the ties are spaced at 225 mm centres. I use a long sharp knife to achieve this cutting a slot the width of the knife ( about 25 - 30 mm) 5) over filling is better than under filling but not excessively. Any cut bats that I do on 150 mm insulation are typically 20 mm longer than the gap. The most important thing is to cut the bats square. I have found the easiest way is to cut them them through a ‘slot’ If there’s room I do this in the scaffold and lie the bay on the scaffold and cut through the gap in the boards. When I work off the ground it’s easier to set up two trestles and a sheet of OSB or similar with a slot cut in it at least 500 mm long. I lay the insulation on this board then cut through the insulation and the slot. If it’s cut square you save on waste and have no gaps. Win Win ! Watch out for …. 1) Brickies attempting to cut it with their trowels. This makes me shout at them. It’s quicker and easier to do it properly. 2) Brickies building higher than the insulation without covering it. I use lengths of 4 x 1 timber to catch any mortar droppings. You will use it elsewhere on your build anyway. When we reach window height we cut these to fit the panels and move them up or around the build as we go. 3) at lintel height make sure that the gap below the lintel is full before placing the lintels. I try to cut this as an L shape around the lintel rather than cut a small piece below the lintel with a piece joining it. I then make an angle cut ( at the same pitch as the fall on the lintel) to pass the cavity tray through. I’m sure I’ll still get slated for this post but by using these methods you will achieve the best job possible. Alternatively find another better qualified trade to carry this work out while the bricklayers start the stopwatch to get compensated for downtime. 😜I’m just going to find a link for the knives I use. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulation-Scabbard-Cutting-Stainless-RockWool/dp/B09RW57LRL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1P0E1NW2VAXET&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.684K2TWJ9ecZU2r20s7M2w4ShwmQYHp_4_4s3wJsF1sX3thu1LFat02fZ9ZjWiizdHfA-RauLUIFuTtgv-HKLUTAF9vifstTeWSkSiVZwNKenGr4DEYuc95QW7qfjew5y2SZkXgP5t89ZIGtHddUktN4AkHmOaZZJUg4SQs3Kxz6LcLEKslEcVaETycQkggid1bUrDN5k3cfN5-rtoUugMwGRUIqLR1NiFVUrvLbbuhZHrvRGdGyENqTIL6S8gNqLkmbQPOTrllelqmfxorPrOS4826YkNmy1qp8ieOZIWc.Q5ZptyHAlgRHUbhm1V-Df08zvXWWWLhHi5jDXsQYEY0&dib_tag=se&keywords=insulation+knife+rockwool&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1736500922&sprefix=Insulation+knife%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1&smid=A3CYBNKKYWTMTI

Like the design . I think some people just hate any change - particularly if it involves someone else getting to live in a nice house. Also because it makes them feel good that their views ‘matter’.

A cavity tray isn’t really installed as per the drawing-it would come out across the top of a PIR sheet & then down to the outer leaf. Some people chamfer that sheet below to ensure a fall away from the inner leaf,which isn’t great thermally but probably preferable to any moisture finding itself trapped on a minute rise in the DPC tray. All the more reason why I don’t believe PIR is a suitable insulation material for masonry builds.

After what seems like an age (but is not compared to others on here) we have at last are formal planning approval! We had quite journey, some of which is detailed here. We were told by our planning consultant just before Christmas that it would be approved by the 10th but of course until it actually states "Application Approved" on the portal then of course nothing is guaranteed. We were on site today cutting the overgrown boundary to the rear when I got the call to say that it had been approved. So, just a bit to do over the next year or so! Onwards and Upwards.

Congratulations and welcome. Plenty of help on here. Good luck with the project. Plans (without names etc) are always appreciated.

Over the current cold snap I've had 2 flats empty. As an experiment I turned the boiler flow down to 40. Bith flats are single glazed and solid walled with no additional insulation. One was a mid level flat (ie between occupied flats) and the other was ground floor (suspended floor, no insulation beyond underlay and carpet) Both flats one bed around 80m2 The rads in the flats were fairly good. We tended to bung in big k22s unless there was an issue with depth from wall. The pipework is a mishmash of 15, 22 copper with some speed fit here and there. Basically you big standard victorian flat/terrace that has been upgraded piecemeal over the decades. Both easily (as in the boiler was cycling) maintained a steady 18C through the cold weather (-4C lows, 2C day) An interesting, albeit small, datapoint in the "most British homes will need massive upgrades" and "you can't use a heat pump on an old property" debate.

& other euphemisms...

I agree and still don’t see their objections as valid in planning terms, and why not have a gate? Yes the hedge can be reduced, removed or die 🤷‍♂️ models are always good, not everyone can visualise from drawings (mind planners should be able to).

Planning permission was for garage conversion to a room and the porch. I have realised after the permission that there is an opportunity to put the loft also for use which is an afterthought

I actually made two scale models, including all the new hedges and other planting. I don’t know if it made that much difference but I did it because a member on here had done it a year previously. I knocked down a 60m timber building and replaced it with 220m!! when you have this meeting could you ask for time to prepare two scale computer generated cgi’s, full colour with all the landscaping in them. From a slightly funny angle which is how my brain works. they keep mentioning this bloody hedge and the view from the road. what is to stop you cutting the bloody thing down, they will see the house then. Maybe keep that as a bit of ammunition

I have only used a few m2 of cork, but I have used a lot of rigid (and latterly some flexible) Wood fibre. I *know* it is a great deal more expensive than plastic but I do not want to use plastic (and I hate even handling rock-candy-floss) so I 'invest in my preferences'. I don't try to stop anyone using what they want to use, but I like what I like. I have not bought PIR since 2020 so I am out of touch as to the differential, but I usually sit down a long time after I get the quote.

🤣 been there ; same situation. You go underground my friend ….

Update from BG is that they've installed the wrong meter and so automatically changed the tariff. No notification etc. Just unilateral action. No attempt to apologise. And theyre now saying things like "we want to help you resolve this etc". Whereas they should be saying "we screwed up royally and we are in breach of contract. We will resolve it and compensate you in the next xx days". I'm a lawyer by trade and have some spare time at the moment. Seriously considering taking them to court.

80% was DALI or LED, and it was easier for electricians to use same cable everywhere and avoid any mix-ups. If you drivers are local to fitting you going to need more than twin-earth anyway, unless control is wireless or you have a seperate dali/dmx/tree/control cable. One example of where having this 5-core in place was handy was bedside lamps. We ended up choosing some wall lamps that have a wall light an a reading light, by using 4 cores were were able to give it a permannt live for the reading light (locally switched) and have the wall light on a loxone-controlled dimmer. We couldn't have done this otherwise once everything was boarded. It also meants that, when we finally source and install pendants we have option to use mains dimmed or DALI etc. You're right re: tree via 5-core. The scenario I was thinking about was a pendant in the hall, where we only decided later to use the Loxone pendant. What we did in this case was use the 2 cores (of the pre-wired 5-core) to supply 24v to the pendant, and then brought tree from the closest light switch.

John you need to start saying it as it is 😁 Spot on One or the other

Taping and filling also needs skill in the PB installers. Taping is less forgiving of poor boarding, in particular you need sufficient screws into solid studs to ensure joints cannot move. As above quite hard finding a decent plasterer in the Highlands and not many do it, but that is what we chose.

Hi Just spotted that Danfoss have got behind your research @DamonHD you can read all about it here: https://www.installeronline.co.uk/green-energy/heat-pumps-and-trvs-what-installers-need-to-know/

Question why p*ss about with a used unit when the tax payer is giving you £7.5k? Or the other question why p*ss about with the grant and a good possibility of overpaying, when using used equipment?

I wouldn't like to fit it as a builder daily. On this occasion I'm following on from the brickie to install this so they don't have to worry about the hassle and I can be fussy with cuts, corners and chamfers over lintels.

I just had a document from the people processing my BUS grant, which of course means I have to have the design done under MCS guidelines . Their summary of running costs has come out at £2677 per year !!!! WTAF? FYI - House is Jackon insulation slab foundation, Nudura walls, triple glazed windows, warm roof, good air tightness with MVHR, and about 270 sq m. Oh, and the MCS calcs want to put in a 9kW ASHP when even the installer says 6kW would be more than enough. This MCS sh1t has got to stop!!

At least it is only a straight flight. I think these are best made in a factory or very well equipped joinery workshop, but if you feel you have the skills and kit I am sure it would be very satisfying. Post up pics if it looks decent.

Direct to Vent-axia trade sales. Our architect had a contact, they beat everyone by about 10%.

I've used efans, and ventilationland aswell as bpc and blauberg.

The sketch is perfect. Thd issue is the load of the new building thrusting against the existing retaining wall. Imagine loads spreading at 45 degrees. What is the wall construction? Keeping the gym dry inside will need careful detailing and some cost. Will there be a door at ground level and steps down inside?

Not quite what was meant. A 6 kW and 9kW can have the same minimum modulation. So both around 3kW min output. So if you only need 1.5kW they would both run 50% of the time. There is no impact on CoP with cycling, as long as it's a controlled cycle not a short cycle. No different to a gas boiler really. Issues with gas boilers are just hidden by cheap gas pricing. -10 OAT, CoP is about 2.7 at 35 degs. Same flow temp at 7 degs is about 4.5 CoP, same day flow temp 30 is about 5.5 CoP. -10 a hand full of hours per year, 7 degs typical winter temperatures on average.

Hello newbie from Devon looking for the odd occasional help with diy!

This is so so helpful - thank you!

100% agree. I always recommend pumped beads insulation as on balance believe it is the best option. That’s fine for a full house but for small extensions it would prove very expensive. As a brickie who sees tight gaps around cavity trays I don’t trust the beads to get into some of these gaps. I know I that I can fill them 100% with cavity bats. I also know that I can install cavity bats neatly to the top of the wall plate and can see that it’s there before the roof covering goes on.

We used 5-core in most places for lighting unless we knew that the lighting circuit was definitely going to be i) single-color ii) use a cabinet-based dimmer. Wtih 5-cores we could then: - power RGBW or tunable strips from with central LED driver, - send 230v + DALI to remote drivers (all our downlights and some other fittings are DALI) - send dimmed 230v - could even send 24v + loxone tree if needed. (albeit overkill core area)

We’re at a similar-ish stage on a very similar journey. Exciting! (If you’ve CIL in your area make sure you sort the paperwork!)

Same as the above, our new plaster was pretty shiny, didn’t do anything to it apart from mist it 50/50 with some Wickes paint (specifically New Plaster Paint iirc?) No issues 4 years on.

Just been listening to a podcast with the founder of One Zero Energy company, Howard Johns, who has ideas for making as many houses as possible more energy efficient, quickly without having to pay huge upfront costs. He reckons he can do ashp, battery, solar, cavity and loft insulation in 2 weeks for around £21k (less the BUS grant). But he wants to do lots more, including arranging better finance for those who dont have that money but still need the equipment. Listen hear or read the notes, https://www.houseplanninghelp.com/hph366-could-a-home-energy-transformation-pay-for-itself/ Sounds a very interesting chap with plenty of experience and a real committment to helping as many people as possible. wish I lived closer to him 🤔would certainly be interested in his ideas.

Agreed it's a great idea - however I'm sorry to say that my view is it would be as effective as below

I used BPC for my last house, Vent Axia. Used CVC for the new build, Brink.

Suds can be BS . Mine recently got signed off without ‘complying’ with suds . Why’s that ? . It’s mandatory. So I find planning applications where it has magically not been applied . Then I find planning applications with zero mention of suds passed by my planning officer . Funny how kicking the cat makes the dog shit itself 😉

welcome Tim. that's exactly what we did! as have many others on here. it is daunting but you soon learn after lots and lots of reading on here. 😉 i started a blog but i lost my way with it after a while as i became more hands on and didn't have the time to maintain it. but it might give you hope that if we can do it anyone can!

Even barns are difficult unless you have over 5 hectares

@croboy we are in a similar position at the moment, having been looking for a suitable plot for a new build for many years, last year a bungalow with 1.5ish acre came up for sale in a great location, (with possibility of buying a further 10-15 acres later on). it had been built by the two farmers for their parents who passed and then sold to another family (who I purchased from) who knocked down the old barn and applied for planning for a replacement barn - refused, then re applied for a oak framed triple garage - refused, appealed and again refused. We bought the place, used a local architect and applied for a man shed on the paddock area - no chance, re applied with the shed moved onto the garden area to replace some old stables - nope! We reduced the size to 150sqm but still no, planners are now willing to discuss a possible design for 2x 75sqm (so they are unlikely to become dwellings in the future) under permitted development. hoping to get a go ahead in next couple of weeks so I can build my man-sheds.

Stick a barn on it, allow the neighbouring farmer to use it for ten years after which apply for change of use to residential - and then knock it down and build a house?

You can get your LPA website to post new applications to you. The neighbouring areas too if similar circumstances. Learn from them free of charge. You may even end up being more expert than the experts, but will still need them for their credibility.

We have porcelain tiles on pedestals. The ground underneath is anything but level and the pedestals we’ve used are from 50mm to 300mm high to give us a level patio. No grout required, water pours through the gaps. Jet wash it once a year and it still looks as good as new. As with @Andehh our tiles are the same inside to out. Slippery little bastards with frost on them.

Unprotected areas - they don't have the required fire resistance. No hope of either the north or south walls facing a road, river, canal or like? The relevant boundary then moves out to the centre of that feature and you may find the whole face may be UA. Wishful thinking probably. First stop would be the steel cladding manufacturer (or at least the one with the most technical stuff on their website). Look to see if they have any fire test reports for boundary wall situations, go to your timber frame supplier and ask them, - usually with a bit of hunting around you can find a certified detail that you can wave under BC's nose even if you have to add say a mineral cement board behind the steel to get a match.

So how close to the boundaries are those walls?

This has all come about after the Building Safety Act. These guys are individually registered building inspectors now with the emphasis on "inspector". They are being told they are not designers as that path leads to liabilities....... I would agree that doesn't help you but to be fair the regulations now expect a designer to be competant so you should be leaning on a design professional if you are unsure about the regulations. When you say your walls are of a standard construction - what is "standard"? It's difficult to judge what level of information you are giving this person, if it's little more than planning drawings then a plans check does result in some fairly vague queries I'm afraid because there's not much to go on. In the past I've seen some house photo's and a land registry location plan submitted as an application for converting the loft of a listed, converted barn to a habitable room. The plan check response was suitably sparse in response I can tell you.....

This is all well meaning and I can see the concerns about the impact of external lighting on wildlife etc. However, where this all falls down is; Alan builds his house (if he has the energy left) moves out after eight years due to nervous exhaustion. The new owner isn't aware of the condition because frankly who would be in the real world. Finds his patio is too dark so fits a 500W floodlight. The neighbours aren't interested and don't know about the condition either and the local badgers find it easier to find the hedgehogs because they can see them better. This type of condition goes with the landscaping one requiring detailed planting schemes for individual dwellings where despite fancy landscape designs and posh plants specified the new owner is going to do what they want in their garden and the planners never check. At least approvals are digital now, it saves the wasted paper spent on some lists of conditions..... Good luck - more expense!

Is the look of your house relevant I walked around all the neighbours and made a note of the house type and materials used, there where no two the same so we had an argument that it didn’t need to look like any of the others as there wasn’t a precedent for a certain type. ridge height I can see being a problem if everything is a bungalow and you want two storey, but if that isn’t the case then why does everything need to look like a run down cottage. get some ammunition together.

If its real cold, get a good fire going near your pile/bags of sand to get a small amount of heat in it, should help no end in -6C, but ideally, wait til next week when its a bit milder, never ideal i know!

100% agree. I always recommend pumped beads insulation as on balance believe it is the best option. I have seen so many cavities with built in insulation with gaps, not uniform, mortar snots on top of insulation etc. most trades are paid on quantity not quality and with no or poor supervision we get what we get. Then when you are looking for quality the trades default to what they have done or seen done where quantity is king and think you are expecting too much of them. Most speculative builders the foreman hardly leaves his hut to see what sub-contractors are doing as he knows what he will see and if he complains it isn’t worth it to him. He probably had subcontractors forced on him by the bean counters and would struggle to replace them if they left and the next crew wouldnt be any better. NO ONE REALLY CARES. They all say they aren’t going to be living in it and won’t be pay heating bills. There’s no incentive to do any better. Everyone thinks Building Control or NHBC are their supervisors Hahahaha They are often turning a blind eye too now for similar reasons to foreman. The number of times I’ve left a site shaking my head, thinking “What a shit show” the industry has become, and that is with blinkers on. The whole system is broken. Unless you do a self build and try your best to work around it or get a small hands on contractor who you can trust to do same. All more expensive and time consuming if it’s worth it to you.

I’m sorry but installing insulation takes time and I always charge for it. It is not something that should be included in the rates the same as feature bands, cutting up gables and cutting the bottom course of blocks where others have lost the ability to use a laser level correctly. I won’t take on projects with tongue and groove insulation because it’s not fit for purpose. Cutting and installing full fill insulation requires the following skills. 1) be able to use a tape measure 2) be able to use a long sharp knife and a cutting slot. 3) be able to think ahead 4) checking each junction as you go. 5) protecting work properly as brickwork progresses Gaps in insulation is my pet hate and the lads who work with me know it and have known it for years. I can guarantee that there isn’t a single gap in any of the cavity insulation on the 2 houses that I have just built for myself. Like I said it’s not rocket science but it does take time to get it bang on. Time should be paid for. Some of the bricklayers that have worked for some of this forums members were most likely used to working on a ‘rate per 1000 all in’ to include all the sundries. I stopped giving my time away for free 30 odd years ago. You pay peanuts you get monkeys. I do agree that there are plenty of poor bricklayers about but to tar them all with the same brush is pure stupidity.

No membrane required, but you need to restrict the amount of moisture getting into the outer leaf, so either render for blockwork or a coat of Stormdry or similar if it is brickwork.