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Dan F

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  1. It will all depend on the supplier and how much you want to pay, but the suppliers we looked at (UrbanFront, RK Door Systems etc.) had standard sizes up to 1200x2400mm from what I remember. If the supplier you are speaking to can only do 2100mm then look elsewhere, you'll find 2400mm for sure.
  2. - Norstone - Cupa StonePanel (sold in U.K. via Taylor Maxwell) We wanted to use Cupa StonePanel, but they were more expensive and there was no stock of the variant we liked (Nordic), so we ended up using ZClad Nordic. Builder found it OK to work with, only think I'd mentioned (also visible in photos on their website) is that horizontal lines between the panels are somewhat visbible, more so that with the StonePanel product anyway. Initially we considered Norstone (specified by architect) but wasn't cheap and they wanted to insist you used a specific backing-board that only they supplied in order for them to give you a warranty which didn't seem right.
  3. I took another look at the datasheet and the quoted cooling power is for 28C air in. So, if MVHR is actually providing air at closer to 21C, then total cooling power is going to be closer to 1kW (of which 0.3kW is sensible power which matches what I see on the heat meter). So, it's less than I expected when Comfopost was added to the design, but still 3 times our total cooling demand and is on top of UFH. The datasheet actually shows 25% more total cooling output for HRV vs. ERV. The assumed humidy for HRV is 80%, where as the assumed humidity for ERV is 55%. (this matches humidy I see on ours)
  4. With DMX are the dimmers centralized with each circuit wired back to the Loxone panel, much like with Loxone dimmers?
  5. Any questions give me a shout. Only thing is that designer/electrician may not be that familiar with Loxone control. Did you decide between DALI, DMX, Loxone Dimmers etc?
  6. I'm not sure. But, just thinking out loud: - The masonary construction may help keep first-floor day/night temperature a bit more consistent than with a timber-frame. We saw a difference of 1C between 6am and 7pm in January in north-facing bedrooms, which reduced to 0.5C in May. (No Comfopost in use) - But, I don't think it's necessarily going to help ensure that the first-floor isn't slightly warmer/cooler than the ground floor if your primary heat source is ground-floor UFH. - With the additional mass in the walls I would assume that it's even more important to keep first-floor temperature in check, as it will be harder to cool down via ventilation/comfopost if you need to cool the mass too.
  7. Even single-phase? What if you sign-up on dumb meter, do you then go in a queue for smart-meter?
  8. You can get more than that on Octopus Outgoing Agile. I was getting 25p few months ago on average, but now there is more sun not quite so much. Here is today. You can't use "Outgoing Agile" with "Go" for import, but you aren't going to want cheap nightime during the build anyway.
  9. Yes, don't see why not. Our place, when we bought it, already had a 3-phase supply but a meter on just one phase. Also, it might be easier to get a supply in place with someone on a single-phase (which should happen quite quickly) and then request upgrade to three-phase afterwards. If this takes a while it won't be an issue if you aren't using it.
  10. Boosting helps increase the transfer, but transfer will still happen at standard flow rates. Our first-floor non-boost flow rate is 145m3/h which should equate to 1.5kW/1.8kW cooling/heating. If this is "useful" or not, will depend on the specific build and your goals. Our whole-house cooling load is just 330W so, along with UFH on the ground floor, 1.5kW is enough to "trim" things on the first-floor on the hottest days of the year. Our total heating load is around 3.5kW, which can easily be covered with UFH but having some output on the first floor helps avoid befrooms getting chilly on the coldest days of the year. What we found this winter is that even with MVHR on low at night the air suppy (after heat exchange) is enough to lower bedroom temperature to 17/18C even when ground floor is a nice 21C. This approach was based on feedback from others with MBC builds that were very happy with just ground-floor UFH as primary source or heating/cooling, but commented on the fact that on the hottest/coldest days of the years bedrooms could be a few degress higher/lower than the ground floor which wasn't always ideal.
  11. Yes I probably need to call Zehender and see if their technical team can give me any pointers. Without the heat-meter it would be very hard to know what was going on. I didn't think the Comfopost was particularly expensive, it does means you have to insulate all your first-floor ducting though.
  12. Just one MVHR unit (Zehnder ComfoAir Q600 ERV). The supply splits for the ground floor and first floor, with the ground floor manifold in the plant room and the first-floor manifold in the loft. The Comfopost is in the plant room on the first-floor branch. This doesn't present any issues with balancing the system, no. There will be a small amount of pressure loss through the ComofoPost, but if the system is balanced/commissioned with the Comfopost in place this won't be an issue. I've been proponent of Comfopost for "trimming" first-floor temperature when overheating has already been designed for via overhangs and automated shading, and I still beleive this is a realistic approach in combination with ground floor heating/cooling via UFH. But, in practice, for some reason the heating/cooling power to Comfopost (measured with a heat meter) doesn't appear to come close to what was in our M&E spec or the manufacturers data-sheet. I'm not sure what the issue is and need to look into this further, but the delta-t is very low .
  13. Anyone any idea roughly what I should expect to pay for two concrete pads 1000x1000x600mm deep (400mm below finnised ground level) with a 400mm deep trench between them and and blockwork up to ground level? South-east prices unfortunately.
  14. Landing, stairs and corridors are Class 1. Balconies, julliete balconies and "edges of roofs" are Class 2. Our BCO and window supplier were both consistent is saying that low-level first-floor windows (with no roof flat roof outside) fell into Class 2 and not Class 1. That table you copied isn't particulalry clear, take a look at this for example, which adds more colour: https://techhub.uk.saint-gobain-building-glass.com/sites/default/files/document-files/Guards %26 Barriers 2A - Applied Loads - 17-09-2018.pdf
  15. You should insist they provide this documenation. Or have you already done this and got nowhere? Right. I had a similair issue. In my case it was no no such tables for triple-glazing in your case your glass make-up isn't listed. I agree, if you just use this table then you need 6+6, but the reality is that your units are almost certainly fine, it's just a paperwork issues. What is you cill height for the largest 1.026x1.448m windows? This is important as the line and area loads need to be calcuated 1.1m from floor level.
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