Dan F

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About Dan F

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    Wokingham, Berkshire

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  1. The commercial options I have seen use brine loop and heat exchangers, which avoids some of the concerns but adds to price. For our build I modelled the use of a gound brine loop in both winter and summer: - In the winter the benefit (given very high level of insulation and high MVHR efficincy) was very low. - The benefit in the summer was more significant, but given we were already planning PV/ASHP/UFH, we felt it made more sense to do UFH/MVHR cooling in the summer with free PV, rather than add another system and additional cost.
  2. I was wondering the same. Thinking about using immersion heater only for DHW, and then adding a ASHP post-completion to get 2/3 of price.
  3. Yes, with so much glazing it's hard to know if it'll be enough to prevent over-heating though!! 0.36 g-value in 100m2 glazing is 10x 0.36 g-value in 10m2 glazing!
  4. Added about 40% on top of our windows price I think, but we put blinds on 80% of windows. Problem with Roma is you can only buy them along with one window brand, they don't resell in UK. The only two options I found with UK-reseller for windows/blinds packge was Internorm + Gaulhofer. Warema blinds are also very good, and there are a couple of UK suppliers if you wanted to do windows/blinds separately.
  5. I think it will come down to local planners and if you have any neighbours that might notice and or complain. The advice our architect gave us was: - Can't add windows (we didn't discuss removing windows, but I guess it depends if/how they impact overall look/street scene etc.) - Can adjust windows size/position sightly within reason with no issue. Others might have have different experiences though..
  6. Sorry, my numbers aren't quite right as the solar glass numbers I was looking at were double-glazed, not triple-glazed (sorry). So would be bit lower than 25-55%. I'd get the actual numbers but seems calumenlive.com isn't quite working...
  7. COOL-LITE SKN 144 II has 0.23 g-value (vs. typical 0.5 for no coating) but light transmittance is reduced to 41% (vs more normal 70% with no coating). Given the amount of glazing though 0.23 g-value might not be enough to stop overheating, very hard to know without modelling it. If I was in your position I would: 1) Look at overhangs and/or reducing glass as @Mr Punter pointed out. 2) If I couldn't do either of those, I'd probably want to model it to ensure whatever I did was going to work, as if it didn't it'd be a major discomfort (using PHPP probably). 3) I'd personally probably go down the blinds route (we are using roma.eu blinds), but given how much glass you have you might want to consider using some solar glass too... SageGlass is conveient in a different way to blinds, I'm unsure on the relative prices though. If you do look at blinds, if possible try to order windows/blinds together to save headaches.
  8. I paid £22/m2 for Rauthermex 25+25/111mm DUO Pipe. We are using it for ASHP flow/return, and put it under slab to avoid penetrations in wall and also because our plant room doesn't have an external wall.
  9. So you are right to be looking at solar glass, blinds and SageGlass! My guess is that blinds or SageGlass would probably be sufficient on their own. Solar glass might not be, unless you went for a 0.23 g-value variant maybe, but that would impact light-transmittence fairly significantly which might not be ideal in winter. Quick look at some of the spec sheets: - Good blinds will reduce solar gain by 70%+ and can be raised/lowered/tilted. - SageGlass will reduce solar gain by 25% all-year (which may be beneficial given amount of glass), and up to 95% when activated. (25%, 70%, 80% or 95% by the look of it) https://www.sageglass.com/sites/default/files/sageglass_datasheet_climatop_42.1ec-12-4-12-4_classic_en.pdf - Solar glass will reduce solar gain by 25%-55% depending which coating you get. The more reduction in solar gain, the lower the light tranmission. Can't be adjusted. (all vs. standard 0.5 g-value for triple-glazing) On the forum there are people that have used/using both options: blinds (me and others) and SageGlass too (@NSS)
  10. Before looking at glass options, have you: 1) Built in any overhangs and/or modelled the design in something like Sketchup that will allow you to design a south-facing elevation that avoids direct sun during the summer? 2) Done any modelling to understand how much a overheating problem you might have e.g. PHPP? (model can also be used to test different solutions) It all depends on how much you need to reduce solar gain, which will depend on orientation, tree shading and overhangs etc. Solar glass itself with a low g-value might be enough, but it might not be.
  11. Yes, thats fair. I'm not arguing against Sageglass, just highlighting that if you want high light transmittance and good amount of solar gain in winter (like we do) then temporary shading has it's advantages.
  12. For the same reason I wouldn't use any glass that reduced light transmissions and solar gain. Different build have different requirements, but for our build we wanted to maximize light transmission (to ensure its nice and bright inside all year) and ensure we get good solar gains in winter to reduce heating demand. (or course this means that temporary shading is a must) Interestingly the coating the OP mentioned still transmits 70% of light (more than Sageglass with no tint) yet still reduces g-value to limit solar gain. Of course it's not adjustable though, which is the really nice thing about SageGlass. Typical Double Glazing: 83% Light Transmittance, 0.8 g-value High-g Triple Glazing: 77% Light Transmittance, 0.6 g-value Typical Triple Glazing: 71% Light Transmittance, 0.5 g-value SKN 176 II Coating Triple Glazed: 70% Light Transmittance, 0.37 g-value Sageglass (no tint) Triple Glazed. 54% Light Transmittance, 0.34 g-value.
  13. Fair enough. Original question was about use of solar glass coating/film, so this is why I was comparing this to blinds. SageGlass seems like a great alternative to blinds, my only two concerns would be i) price ii) low g-value as it seems that even when "off" the g-value is 0.38 versus 0.5 for standard triple glazing.