crispy_wafer

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About crispy_wafer

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  • About Me
    IT is my trade, Dad and husband,
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    Lincolnshire

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  1. I actually tried to delete the cartoon plan image as that's not how we've actually built it, I used a bit of creative license in construction you could say... There are no tiles on the front of the terrace, just a flat roof with a fall into the gutter. The ground floor windows look low but we've added a course or two above the soldiers, no heights mentioned or restrictions on our plans so the added ceiling height is nice. @Stewpot Like the idea of the outer posts 'floating' with the strength and rigidity coming from the inboard end. I'll mention this to the BI when he visits and see how receptive they are to the idea. This could also work with the deck frame that I will put on the waterproof layer below @Faz Thanks, gives me confidence, if the above idea doesnt pass muster.
  2. I've got an in roof terrace/balcony thing going into my build - no plan other than the drawing. Thought it was a nice idea, but struggling with thoughts on how to secure the frame and balustrading without puncturing the flat roof below. So far we've built up the dormer opening and prepared the flat roofing, this will be covered and topped with a floating deck frame, which is likely to be aluminium or composite. Building control will be out after roofing so I will check with them, but in the meantime thoughts are eating away at me. Now I'm not sure if I will need to secure the deck frame, if so, to what and how, whilst maintaining water tightness. Next is the question of securing the balustrading all brackets I've seen involve attaching at the base, I dont think attaching to the floating deck would be sufficient to maintain safety. So I'm thinking that securing to the masonry below the gutter would be better but am struggling to find brackets that are shaped in such a fashion to step out. Wonder if anyone on here has any thoughts, come across this issue before?
  3. Looks nice, and practical too, however for me, i'd Install a full fat 8" liner, that way you'd be covered if you ever changed your mind. Wont cost you an awful lot more in materials either.
  4. I dont have a lot to add, other than twinwall flue allows you to router a lot closer to combustable materials, this usually means an extra couple of inches on the O/D though - which could be worth bearing in mind if there are obstacles en-route. There are some rules regarding number of bends too. Give consideration to sweeping too.
  5. Quick reply One window is a specialist job, no question about that, and am will absolutely pay for fitting on that, and that does require a lift etc. The rest of the windows are your run of the mill std casement upvc type affair largest being 1900*1050 down to 600*1050 - 12 windows in all, then a back door and 2 sets of french doors. Maybe I'm being a tight arse, and expecting champagne for beer money. Happy to be told to reign expectations in, that's the market rate, and actually a decent deal... Example
  6. @JulianB that helps a lot. I see the tools are pricey, even 2nd hand, but there must be a good chance of getting most of the investment back when finished with it. I take a bit of confidence in seeing that jobbing plumbers are now starting to adopt the method.
  7. Thx, I'll given them a schedule, will be interesting to see what comes back?
  8. Showing my lack of knowledge in this area... Seems like I'm getting charged an arm and a leg for installation on my quotes, I reckon people see self build and start assuming 'loads a money', am I allowed to fit my own windows in a self build or does the job need certifying by an accredited installer?
  9. @JulianB Without taking the thread off topic too much, how did you find the pressfit tool, did it do everything you wanted, any shortcomings? Did you use copper and press for the whole project or did you revert to pex for the runs between endpoints?
  10. Just planning the underfloor ducting for the log burner, I'm thinking of doing it in plastic however at some point as it rises through the b+b floor I guess it needs to change to something non combustable. Would plastic be ok to the top of the screed, then the air feed kit from there to the stove, or would it be best to use galv steel duct from the underfloor plastic duct to the top of the screed?
  11. Floorplanner dot com, found it very useful in being able to mock up in 2d and visualise and walkround in 3d, even lay out furniture and decor if you've got enough time...
  12. I was up there yesterday as the joiners were hand cutting the roof, and it's gonna be a tall old ceiling. Perhaps it may be too tall. I might try to bring the ceiling height down a bit, but leave the window full height, I dont know yet, need to ponder a bit more, pick up a few ideas... And, I wish I'd have thought about adding a balcony at design so the first floor room could walk out... Maybe next time.
  13. I think at 750 you wont have any problems - below the frost line, mine will be laying in the b+b void at ground level close to external wall. I'm not sure it will freeze down there but NHBC quidelines state adequate precautions when above 750 8.1.3 Water services and supply - NHBC Standards 2021 NHBC Standards 2021 (nhbc-standards.co.uk)
  14. I've read somewhere before that insulation is required if within a certain distance of an external wall. So think I will get some more insulation and insulate the lot as I feed it though, then maybe squirty foam the ends of the pipe to seal it up.
  15. I've decided to relocate our incoming water pipe to another spot in the build. Didn't particularly like what the builder had done, pipe slightly kinked as it bends up to the floor. so have decided to take the opportunity before I go any further to expose the pipe and re-lay to a better place. I've got good access still through the b+b flooring so no great issues, It's not terminated at the mains connection yet so an easy pull out. I've got access to the pipe, currently it's not ducted under the b+b floor however it has some insulation. If I duct and insulate under the floor, what kind of ducting is acceptable, and what can I use to ensure I get a nice smooth bend on the pipe when it rises up through the floor, I hazard that as I'd still need to insulate within the ducting? If left to my own devices I'd probably use some drainage pipes and a bend, is that an acceptable trick of the trade? I've got a coil of blue ducting for outside the building to the mains stop on the property. This wont accept the pipe and insulation though...