crispy_wafer

If you are unsure go to vitcas and see any products that might suit.

Cant answer your question, but thanks for the picture, I was looking at doing something similar with trunking, this helps massively with visualisation. 👍

I laid out a length onto the concrete floor, then went up and down the length with a blowtorch, just so the sheen on the tape changed, then picked it up using the backing tape and then wacked it onto whatever I was sticking (dpm to dpm, or wall to dpm) then pressed it into place and used an old wallpaper roller to flatten it out, leave the backing tape on until you want to stick to it.

I used plastic shims from screwfix to straighten a slightly out stud very recently, horseshoe shaped come in various thicknesses (1/3/5/10mm). Painted contact adhesive onto the stud and just stuck the shims in place. Previously I've cut studs on the bowed in side halfway down, give it a shove to straighten and open the cut then place a timber wedge into the cut. A few bags of packers are useful to have around, especially for getting ceiling battening level.

This is possible with our plan, especially in some rooms where we have a mix of brighter lighting and softwer lighting, so what you are saying is, it would be either a double switch with 2 * t+e cables or a double switch with a single 3 core+e cable out to the fittings?

top advice, currently ours is in an out building but that has to be demolished on first occupation so, yes, this is something we are going to have to get aligned to.

Slight hijack, I've bought Various Aico mains wired kit for the kitchen (heat), upper hallway, down hallway (smoke) and lounge(multi). Think I would like something in my utility room with plant room attached, tumble drier/washing machine, solar gadgetry... Any recommendations please?

As my nice spark is busy on other commitments he's given me permission to run up cables for switches and lights. I've done most of the easy 'loop at' switches now and now my attention is turning to running cable up to the pendant or downlight. I asked him what cable I should use he say t+e is fine. but I read this where @TonyT mentions running 3 core + e to lights? What's a good reason for this? What would I be loosing by just using t+e? ta.

success, looks like it can. Just need a switch or two.

I think I could quite easily live with having a setup like that, let the unit decide what it wants to do most the time, but have a couple of switches that boost for a period of time. Just picking through the commissioning guide now to see if I can set a timer on the volt free.

Yes, that's a downside that Mrs and I discussed, especially when its a night time visit!

I've got a Vent Axia kinetic s MVHR, I've added the volt volt free input option and the switched live 2/3 input option without really knowing what do and which would best suit my needs. Basically approached it with a sledgehammer to crack a peanut... I'm at the point of running the final wiring in the build before PB so it's crucial I think that I get wires to where I need them (if I need them that is)... If you don't mind helping a dummy and guiding me in the right direction please? Starting with the MVHR unit, it's got a built in Humidity sensor and will do it's fan control thing as and when. But there may be occasions when I need to increase extraction manually. What do I need to do this? Can I connect to the lights in the bathroom/s to boost on light on? For those that have been down this road, would love to hear real use feedback. I guess I want to cover my bases now, I guess I can always disconnect at the MVHR unit if not needed at a later date.

Yes, I guess. If the horizontal is that much cheaper and if you've got room for manoeuvre then I guess a 90 to change the angle and then a straight bit of pipe down might work??

how about something like this from schluter? Schluter KERDI LINE V/VS/VOS Linear Drains - Tiling Supplies Direct

Over here we get 15p per kWh back to grid, on Octopus Tracker I'm paying generally 16-18p per kWh consumed. Certainly for me right now it's better to pocket the eddi cost and install fee.