crispy_wafer

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About crispy_wafer

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  • About Me
    IT is my trade, Dad and husband,
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    Lincolnshire

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  1. gotcha, Thankyou, pictures are perfect
  2. Sat in work and a daft question entered my head, it not important right now, but I cant work out what's the right way to go about? So, DPM, does it go down before block internal walls get built or after? If it goes down before then it's gonna get shredded and ripped up, so has gotta go down after , right? Internal block walls will have a dpc built into them then you dpm each room connecting to the DPC layer separately? - Is that right? Block+Beam floor if it makes any difference.
  3. @epsilonGreedy Just reading back through this thread, what method for your cavity and insulation did you opt for in the end?
  4. Post and rail fence is a nice option, tis what we did 20 years ago, stand the posts in oil, creosote or a mixture for a couple of weeks will help them immensely in the long run, then square 4 inch wire mesh run along the fence from ground level to about 4ft high to keep out dogs. Eventually I planted laurels, loads of them over the space of a few years, purchased them in the winter as bare root in bundles of 50 or so, then heeled them into my veg patch then planted them at my leisure. Beware though, Laurels grow big if you let them, Mine are now at about 2.5 to 3m, which keeps out prying eyes. Means I can have more man toys to keep it in good order though, and its a twice a year job at that. Not sure what's worse though, painting fences, or hedgetrimming!
  5. So yesterday, was a fairly productive day in terms of ticking things off the list. Bricks ordered - before price rise. Not that I've got much space to store them at the moment. I'll be extending the driveway infront of the build up to the front of the bungalow to create a little extra room. It's gonna get muddy when I get a machine in but needs must, it was something to do later in the year but I've had my arms twisted a bit. Building inspector is happy for me to connect to existing septic tank so that's a result. A wagon load of limestone chippings is now ready to be deposited under the block and beam floor... Water table and standing water round the trench blocks where little or no back fill, building inspectors recommendations so happy with that, the ventilation space will be maintained as I'm out the floor by a good way... I can handle a little damp, but a moat, no thanks! Quote back from roof truss and first floor pozi joist supplies, not bad i think, took a bit of toing and froing to get to where we wanted... on a 5100 span we started with 254*100 at 600mm centres... I'm no flooring technician but that sounded a bit bouncy to me, he explained the software spits out the most economical design. Eventually we have ended up at 304*122mm at 400mm centres, not quite double the price, but close. To sanity check its 12*5200 and 5*5100 + ancillary items for 1980 + vat , I'll look a bit further afield to see how the quote stacks up. And heres a link to the timelapse from the day it all started. Rose Maroan, New Build - Day1 - YouTube
  6. Blocks coming up on slab, on drawing they are specified as block walls, there's one a couple which are spec'd as stud walls, but blocking them gave me a feel for the location, and door positions.
  7. Parge coat - Noted. I will have a word when the blocks are going up, ask them nicely to point up and ensure the mortar fills the bits where it should maybe a cup of tea and a bit of cake will seal the deal.... 175mm as between myself and the builder we were discussing the finished floor height and how many blocks down before and above the b+b, then we were working backwards from the level AOD stipulated by the planners, 170mm or 160mm + 60mm or 70mm screed , so its a number that could well change a smidge depending on costs, and what bargains I can lay my hands on. Haha brings me on to screed, all the builders round this way all seem to use floscreed now, but to be different I quite fancy good old fashion sand/cement screed. MVHR location is now a consideration, admittedly I hadn't actually planned on one, but a bit of tweaking and a reduction of the downstairs shower/wc has created a bit of extra space in the utility for this. Pipe routes are now being worked out.
  8. My preference would be dense concrete blocks at 20% cheaper. What was the reason for the lightweights? Probably me being a bit naive and not reading into real world experiences. And just going by what the technician suggested Good plan. Have you priced EPS blown beads as an alternative No, but blown beads were on my list to investigate, one thought I had was, was how can I be sure they get everywhere they need to. It'll help for sure. Get him to cost it. Where does the bottom of your wall insulation stop? That steel is probably more of an issue mind you. Good question, just looked and it is something that isnt detailed on my drawings. I'll need to double check where he's filled the cavity with lean mix to, but I think its to the level where it's covering the block and beam ends. So as it stands the insulation starts at the top of the block and beam. RE the steel, yes, good point, I'll have a mooch about and see how others have solved this. My preference would be wet plaster internally. Although dot and dab can work it usually doesn't rate very well for airtightness. Nice solid walls too. Yes, I like the idea of wet plaster, but I had also thought about battening out the internal walls and creating a service void, potentially insulated PB, not fully decided at this point. - Note if I was to do this again, I'd have put in a wider cavity... Again something I'd not even considered at the outset. I'd get rid of the studs and build internal block walls. Better for sound and cheaper as far as i can remember. These can be built on the blocks that are there. I don't have too many studs so yes this is something I could do. Avoid anything that seals with a brush seal like bifolds or sash windows. They're really drafty. Triple glazing is a no brainer. Beyond that it's how much you want to spend. hehe, no bifolds in this house, don't know why, totally irrational but I dislike them with a passion. Triple glazing, yes, they'd quoted me for double, but I will ask them to requote, especially for the floor to gable curtain as this could be an issue. Looking at some of the details they'd put on the quote, they are using a system from SF52 Curtain Wall - Senior Architectural Systems Nope! That suggests you've been able to get to sleep in the first place! 🤣 Have a look at this series of videos from the GreenBuildingStore. They're short and cover 99% of what you'll need to do to have a very comfortable house. Thanks, certainly will do, I'll queue that up on the amazon box.
  9. So I've got plenty of time before the builder comes back later this year to shell and roof. Trouble is with all this time I'm finding out lots of tidbits of information from you guys that perhaps I'd have been better knowing before we started this journey. I'm slowly putting together a spec for the shell. It'd been decided to be brick and block, however I'm already starting to think again on this, and heading back to the drawing board. Changes I've made so far 175mm insulation on the B+B floor instead of the 100mm specified I'll be using fibolites instead of celcon lightweights, are 3.6n OK or are 7.2 the ones to use? Dritherm32 or similar instead of rigid PIR wall insulation as I wont be around the watch and monitor the builder at every step, The first course of blocks had been laid onto the B+B floor, but I've just discovered things like cold bridging at the wall to floor junction, so would knocking these out and putting down a course of thermoblocks be a wise idea? Builder wont be too happy, but there you go I guess. decisions made without knowledge and all that. I've also discovered this thing called a parge coat, or sealing the inner blockwork to help with airtightness. Then there will be dealing with attention to detail when the floor is laid and the roof construction. Internal room dividing stud walls? Now a question that's been going round my noggin, what should these sit on? Currently laid out with block or would marmox be a better idea. Also, as I know not alot about windows and glazing I'll pop up in that section soon as I've had a quote through and I couldn't tell if it's good bad or ok... Finally, Is waking up at 3am thinking about trivial stuff normal? Cheers folks this really is a great resource that helps with the unblurring of the lines.
  10. I think the problem here, is now I've seen it, I cant unsee it 🙈, just need to get my head around it being part of the 'character' ... 🤣
  11. Thanks George, The Highway drain is 'my drain', were on an non public maintainable highway, the type where neighbours all band together and look after, I dug it out and maintain it and have done for the last 20 years. I'm not worried about draining to that too much, but If I laid a pipe it would be about 2-4 inches under the existing ground level, and I bet I'd have to raise some levels as the pipe run would pass through the garden, which is a bit of a bowl. I think infilling could be a solution, I just hate the idea of standing water inside the 4 walls, already got me waking up in the night to think about possible solutions... However if its absorbed in stone, or some other material then I think I can deal with that. The current bungalow is built on a concrete slab and FFL is about a foot out of the ground. The water table levels haven't caused an issue for as long as we've lived in it. The new build FFL will be about 2 foot out of the ground - thanks drainage board, hence the design including b+b floor.
  12. Hi all, Our build is currently sitting dormant whilst we wait on the better weather to Shell and roof. We are up to dpc with the block and beam floor down. Our water table is quite high, we've got clay about a metre down so water seems to just sit for a while. I've got water under the floor, it appears to be sitting at about the water table level, so I'm thinking that its coming through the foundation block work as well as from above. Fortunately the b+b floor level is a fair bit higher than ground level as a condition was to have FFL higher than the existing property on site due to flood risk (Internal drainage board deep drain about 100m away). The oversite? is about the same level as ground level outside the build I guess higher in places and lower in others. I don't really like seeing water down there, something just doesn't compute in my mind. Very crude diagram attached I've read about french drains around the perimeter to help move water away, but I havent really got much depth and fall to play with to a roadside drain, can I infill the oversite maintaining the ventilation gap to raise the ground level? Any other options, If I have to I dont mind lifting/moving the floor to remediate if i have to.
  13. Having a discussion with a builder about our cavity wall insulation, he's recommending isover 32, and I'm looking a dritherm 32 as that appears to be a well used, and recommended cavity batt on this forum. I've looked briefly at the spec's and to my untrained eye they look identical. Only the price of the Isover stuff seems to be that much greater, so I'm thinking I must be missing something. I'm using insulationshop.co as my reference but other retailers have similar price difference. If I can save a few pounds here and there then I'm all for it. What say the buildhub experts?
  14. I will do this for the other phases of the build next year, however time has caught up with me on this phase so like many, am spinning many plates, and responsibilities at this moment.