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ruggers

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  1. @OwenF Hi, just seen this. I haven't got that far, my project had to be put on hold for the time being. When I completed a full heat loss survey, I was surprised that the addition of internal insulated plasterboard over the whole house made minimal improvement to the total heat loss and it was going to add a lot of money onto the build cost. Every little helps, and I'd have to check again but it was something like 0.4Kw improvement for £2500 extra. I couldn't find anything solid on whether or not a masonry build with cavity insulation was better left without insulated plasterboards for thermal mass reasons, or to add it. In reference to what you've quoted from my older post of adding a vapour barrier behind the battens then adding insulation between them, I'd need to be sure it wasn't going to cause damp from warm and cold surfaces. I think I'd leave the vapour barrier out, apply battens to a parged wall and as long as it was only one room, blower paint could be applied to the sides of each batten if needed.
  2. @jon-lee Once i get them in I'll set the leser up and have a check across the rooms. Spans vary from 3.8, 4.25, 4.9, 2.5m. Thats including the 100mm end bearing. I'll be using dense solid blocks as the lighter more insulating ones don't offer any more to the U-Value. the reason I was going with 50mm liquid screed was initially because of the faster reaction times but thisn't so much of an issue with weather compensation. It's just the extra 25mm of cem floor adds quite a lot onto the price for every 5mm thicker but I do see what you mean if theres a lot of bow in them.
  3. I'm building a 2 storey house with an internal garage thats accessed internally from the utility room. the 2 external walls are 350mm insulated cavity (100/100/50/100), and the 2 internal walls to the house are 300mm full fill PIR (100/100/100) and will only go up to first floor joist level. The 300mm walls separate the garage to utility and the garage to hallway. Theres a room above the garage ceiling, I'm using posi joists on masonry hangers for air tightness, but, the ends of the joists above the garage and hallway/landing are to sit on the 300mm cavity divide wall. I'm now wanting to extend this hallway/landing garage divide wall up to the first floor ceiling level so I have a solid wall up the side of the stairs. I can either do this on the house side single wall only, or continue both sides of the 300mm wall up to the roof truss level, which loses 200mm of space from the room above the garage. If I continue the inner wall right up, but leave the garage side finishing at first floor height with the joists resting on the divide wall, what should I be closing off this cavity with to prevent cavity air working it's way up into my floor void? It will be 100mm PIR so shouldn't be much space for air movement, but unless closed off it's not airtight. It would need to be strong enough to allow the joist ends to sit on it.
  4. This is exactly what i was going to do, i have the stone to the front for vehicles to drive in and park up to be loaded, i just wasnt sure if B.C ask for something under the beam and block, like stone or dry mix. It seems a waste to me if vegetations removed and its away from light, but i was unsure if there was another reason for it. Despite not wanting to due to cost, The only reason i was going to stone the footprint, was with it being a wet site and needing an 8t machine on to dig the mass fill founds, it could all get chewed up if it continues to rain on and off. I need the founds dug in the next few weeks to meet the pre 2022 regs cut off, currently its all graded nice and flat but its wet after just being completed and no land drains in yet.
  5. @nod or anyone, I'm having my site cleared and the foot print of the house plus 360 perimeter path around it down to clay level ready for setting out and founds dug. I haven't spoken to B.C yet but had some saying to stone the whole foot print in 150mm compacted crush stone then set out and dig through, and using the stone removed back on the drive area. Or to leave it as clay, build up to DPC, and dont put anything under the beam and block floor just leaving the air 150mm gap. I think I'd be looking at 80t of stone so £1000.. Whats the drain you refer to underneath?
  6. Thanks Nick, cost of the extra floor pipe was never the issue, I just thought that adding too much pipe might make it too warm. Its one thing I've never installed so I don't know how much adjustment there is on the balancing screws. The whole floor will be open loop so plenty of mass. the 24m2 kitchen will actually be 18 after cupboards. The company mentioned in this post said to run pipes under the cupboards too, to prevent the heated floor transferring to the unheated space. I've never used them JG collet fittings, only the push and twist ones. Tap water wont require oxygen barrier does it
  7. Is it just standard 15 or 22mm Hep2o for potable water or does it have to be barrier pipe to keep oxygen out like the heating pipes? I'd rather keep it simple as you say, It's just the plastic fittings can be bulky, I need to drop some down a block wall to the kitchen. I've used the John Guest lay flat 15mm stuff before but some people said it's crap? The last thing I want is my house being too cold because I got the spacings wrong in the 50mm screed. I'm surprised that a lot of really good heat engineers who know their stuff & do detailed heat loss surveys, just go with 100mm c/c rather than custom to match the rooms loss. I have two 24m2 rooms, ones a living room the others a kitchen. Living room has 1 large window and is 21w/m2, then kitchen has 2 windows and french doors which doubles the heat loss and is 48.4 w/m2. (512w vs 1157w)
  8. I agree with this, but most won't even do 100mm centres when I've asked it's 150mm min for a lot of them, some of them haven't heard of weather comp even in their technical department. None of them ask what floor finish I'd be having & I'm not 100% on floor finishes myself, too early at this stage, It will be a mixture of tiles with either vinyl click or kandean in some rooms. I need to understand how this affects the w/m2 output vs my room heat loss w/m2. I understand DT20 is probably not achievable at under 50°C flow on a gas boiler but at least if I size my radiators for 37.5 MWT, and it ends up a bit higher, I'm heat pump read if need be and at the cost of larger radiators, I'll be running more efficiently. Was this this using 16mm pipe for the radiators and then using the 15mm eurocone to adapt them to 15mm radiator valves?
  9. Hi John, Sorry for the late reply, thanks for the info. I'm aware we're going off the topic from the original post here so I might be better if I start a new topic or drop you a pm if you don't mind. As mentioned my system (pipes & emitters) will be sized for max flow of 47.5C gas or 40C heat pump, both will give a similar MWT of 37.5C. Why is it that most heat engineers advise on going for 100mm centres if your going to run at low temperature, but the chart shows theres no need to? Some suppliers have said only Pex-al-pex is wras approved and pert is best for UFH, pex for radiators and potable water. I'm sure I've seen WRAS per-al-pert. What fittings did you use on the pert pipe, do they need to match the brand of the pipe for the transition to copper? I'm going to have a look at loop CAD, looked on youtube, is it an autodesk product or is there different version? Did you suss it out easy enough?
  10. Thanks John, is loop cad easy to pick up? I can use 2d autocad to an ok level, I've completed a full heat loss survey so have room by room heat loss with w/m2 and know my flow and return temperatures etc for full weather comp. But everyone says to just go for 100mm centres when running a low temperature system. I was considering loop cad and getting bespoke spacing that suit the w/m2 for each room and the floor finishes. The cibse heating design guide covers this. What pipe did you use to your taps? I've also never installed any before and not sure what you can really tell by looking at them, some say a manifold is the same as the next in most situations, others claim some are really poor. Some pipe is wras approved to be used for drinking water. I'm not sure how to tell good pipe from bad or why people prefer top brands like uponor, it's certainly not something I want to skimp on if its going to be buried in screed.
  11. @richo106 or have any other used this company? Seems pretty quiet here but their trust pilot has good reviews. The main things I'd be looking for are, quality of the pipe and manifolds and do their design service recognise low temperature weather compensation.
  12. Are you meaning a timber external door frame? They don't really offer a very good air tight seal, all the ones I've seen with the cill on don't have the jam on the bottom to continue the seal round 360. I'd like to see a correctly fitted seal that works well, where its positioned on the casing, especially the hinge side, and if its routed in just stuck on.
  13. Thats good to know with the small amount required and that it's not enough to affect any colour, I've only ever used cheap everbuild 3 in 1 5L plasticisers for block work in the past. Not buying all the sand at once because I think roughly I'll need 30 bulk bags for 250m2 face brick 245m2 blocks. I need to check that figure is correct. The supplier uses the same sand source from North Yorkshire as some developers who build high spec houses locally need consistency. Just looking at the optimix concentrate, it says 5-10ml per 50kg of cement, so you'd probably only need a few bottles for a full house? I think with Cumbrian wet weather that would go off in no time unless it was kept in a shelter. They do a pre mixed mortar in 0.33m3 tubs but its £40 a tub, lasts 1 day, £70 delivery and £60 deposit per tub.
  14. @Canski Thank you. I'll have a look at the optimix. At least the buckets can be loaded by 1 person. It just needs to be the easiest method for the builder that is fail proof. If counting, everyone forget how many went in at some point or 10.
  15. Hi, I have 240m2 of light grey facing brick to used for my self-build so have been playing around with different sands and ratios to achieve a mortar thats lighter than the brick. This is the shade used on a large development and looks good, so I want to copy it, only they've used a silo. Because it's a grey brick with grey mortar, the colour consistency is key, using other brick colours, you don't seem to need to be as fussy. I think I've got it to where I need to be now with a cheap & simple 5:1 mix of Hanson cement & a buff sand only. I know plasticiser will need added. So, have a few questions if anyone with experience can help? 1. Does adding hydrated lime add any value and does it affect the colour? 2.Does liquid plasticiser affect the colour, if so, in what way, and can you recommend any brands I should aim for or avoid? 3. Whats the simplest way of gauging the ratio without seeming like a pain in the backside for a bricky. Make a wooden gauging box for both the sand & the cement, or use other? 4. Should sand be alternated between bulk bags or is this a bit anal? There's only 2 bricky's and they are willing to work with me, but I want to keep it as easy as possible for them. Gauging boxes all look to be 2 man lift unless this is fine. It's too easy to forget how many buckets of sand have gone in the mixer without one. Any advice appreciated, thanks.
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