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markc last won the day on April 19

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  1. I only use CEF when necessary (a local independent does really good prices) but going into branch and asking can often get you 20 or even 30% discount at CEF
  2. Best practice states lots of things you shouldn’t do, but are done regularly. an unsupported crack or fold wouldn’t be good, but over OSB I can’t see any problem unless it’s not getting skimmed.
  3. Either that would be visible with the film on or they purposely pulled the film and re applied stretching over the dents. obviously not bird damage or scaffold stripping so you should have no problem claiming poor workmanship
  4. CEF can be a lot more expensive for the same product without an account, if you call the branch you will get a better price than online. also try electrical direct, they are online and some good deals
  5. Very nice! Great location and love the stairs
  6. @Gus Potter only just seen this as it’s been a mentally busy week building a new design crawler chassis for a Mewp. But back to the post, I reckon you have nailed it (no pun intended). People rarely look at shear strength against load in nailed connections, I’ve seen trussed rafters doubled and trebled with literally hundreds of nails when a a few in each member would have been more than enough.
  7. Height is from ground adjacent to the structure
  8. Only just seen this, looks like polyurethane varnish. Easy to sand and will take a darker stain. Turn table upside down, sand and try the stain.
  9. Do you know what timber the table is made of? 40 years old could be french polished or varnish both of which can be removed easily. if the wood is soft and has been stained then the colour is deep set and difficult to change (lighten) but can be darkened or reddened
  10. @tvrulesme Seeing as I have a load of helical bars I got in bulk you don't think it's worth shoving a few in for the sake of a few minutes work? what material are these rods? Reinforcing in concrete works well but metal corrosion in a masonry wall can cause more problems than it’s work. as for the mortar, you don’t need much for this job so a bag or two from Jewsons or TRav P’ won’t break the bank
  11. The built up section will (assuming the glue is good) always be stronger and stiffer than one piece solid timber ‘flanges’ on a Larsen truss or I joist. Bit more fiddly to make but incredibly strong.
  12. As this was the external wall I’m presuming it’s still structural so pulling out and replacing is a lot of work. As it won’t be seen anyway rake out sections of mortar and repoint, ramming the mortar into the voids with a piece of wood or blunt chisel. The bars would do very little. After stabilising the rest of the wall you could chisel out around the pipes, pull them together, sleeve through the wall and then make good around them. Split a length of plastic pipe along its length and slide over the pipes to sleeve instead of disconnecting and passing through.
  13. I would definitely go with Osmo top oil
  14. If you are oiling then don’t use resin or other filler. larger holes glue in a knot or plug. smaller holes etc. Make some sawdust, mix with titebond or similar decent quality wood glue and use that to fill
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