jpadie

there's no puddle. the colour of the screed is patchy though. the gauge is for wood and relies on probes that will only really measure surface humidity on a solid substrate like concrete. it's the wrong approach so I'm going to trust the manufacturer and have spread the primer this evening for a pour tomorrow morning. fingers crossed.

two days later and the moisture content of the screed is 30%. fan on all the time. question is whether i can still prime some patches before laying some more SLC or if it has to be dry. the primer is mapei primer g - the info says it can be used between levels of SLC but the layer must be "perfectly dry". does that mean down to 3% RH or just not puddling with water? seems really odd since the primer needs diluting with water too! also seems odd that a quick setting SLC poured at 5-9mm is still at 30% RH after two days when it's supposed to be ready for wood flooring after 2 days (which requires 4% moisture or lower).

I hear you! I live in a 16th century cottage with beams traversing at 170cm. I'm 178cm with a wood print impressed on my forehead. The head height of the garden room is low. I can put my wrist against the ceiling and the floor is not on yet (another 18mm). It's livable but the door height of the internal rooms is hard up against the limit that the door can be cut down. I have a feeling that I will need to remove and trim the header down before fitting the liner to make it all work. Which leads to redecorating that area and then also redoing another door that needs to match height for aesthetic reasons. All a b***ock ache, truth be told

Great answers people! I've gone with a 1mm mapei SLC and marked out the low spots. I'll pour slowly and carefully so I don't overfill. Will think about the rim idea overnight. Am going to prime the areas that need a second layer although they are currently too damp to do so. I could probably get away without it given the moisture in the floor but it's an extra 20 quid that I've already spent. The wood is already on site and has been for a few months now. So no changing to tiles or a thinner board to get more headroom. Another thing I'd do differently second time around!

Coming back to this post, I have laid good quality screed down and it's taken pretty well with a good, solid adhesion to the sub floor. Sadly, even with extra liquid the SLC has not created a level playing field and in some places I'm 4mm out. Seems there is one relatively small area of about 40x40cm that's a couple of mm low and one large area of 2x 1.5 thats sloped to about 4mm low. What's the optimum for releveling this please? An ultra fine SLC? In which case do I have to wait a week or so for a full cure before laying? The thickness of the current screed is 3-8mm. NB I have almost zero headroom allowance so overboarding is not a solution here. Every mm counts and I'm looking to fill the low spots. Thanks in advance

All fine. Thanks. Provided it is permitted in the UK to dig the meter on public land. Which is where the thread started.

Definitely no non return valve at my place. Other than the ones I've installed more recently, and those are only on the inside circuits. Externals (garden taps and pool taps) are directly connected to the mains. I'm not "allowed" to use the isolation valve on the mains side of the meter. So need a way to isolate from the meter to the house and garden appliances) in my place on France this is 200m). The UK may be more practical about permission...

I don't think stainless steel likes chlorine gas too much. Brass suffers less and titanium is ok

To isolate each side of the meter. That's normal where I've been living for 25 years.

As promised here are some pics. Too large to upload so they're in a Google album. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FMsGXZprY5Pcg5z78 Now that I've pumped the water out I can see the stop cock on the mains side of the meter. None on the consumer side though.

It does look a bit like a tie rod type thing yes! I wonder whether I could get one of those eye rods that you linked to and put a thread on the inside. I'd have to find a brass or titanium version to prevent corrosion. At least I've something to search on now. Thanks!

The device is an electrode for a salt water chlorine generator for a pool. It's home made by me. I can't remember where I got the original nut/bolt combo nor what it is called though. I keep thinking of a barrel nut but that is something a little different.

Hello all I'm looking for replacements for the threaded rod + nut combos (they are one piece). Can't think what they're called to search for them. They're in brass and used for connecting through bulkheads in this case. hopefully the hive mind will come up with something!

I'm in France today but will take a snap on Monday morning. The access is a small covering on the verge. About 150mm. Then a polystyrene panel to remove and then the meter under about 200mm of clear water. I will try pumping out the water to get a clear photo.

Update on this is that the water company has refused to get involved as the leak is less than 10L an hour (Thames water). The last test we did was 50L over night (12 hours). Stopcock isolated of course. So now we are stuck with no way to fix the leak it seems. Cant dig up the meter as it's on public ground. And the leak is unlikely to be on our property as there's a single length of relatively new MDPE from the meter to the stopcock. Unfortunately there's no visible shut off valve in the meter box (buried in a small inspection chamber). In my place in France there are isolation valves at both sides of the meter. Any thoughts other than put on a hi-vis and some old jeans and dig up the connections to the meter?