Russdl

We've got some fairly tricky little areas to 'mesh' and noticed the roofers using EPDM sponge under the ridge as an insect mesh. This would be ideal for our needs and I've found a supplier who will cut a 2000x1000x50 sheet into 50mm strips so we'll end up with 50x50x2000 strips of the EPDM sponge to squeeze into a 30mm gap and let it expand and do it's job. Does any one see a fatal flaw in this plan before I go for it? Here's a small section of the sponge the roofers used (the stuff I'm looking at is flat, not undulating).

What on earth are they? Isn't that something to do with wine making? (Google says its a game of some description)

@lizzie Thanks Lizzie, I guess it's looking tip-top. How long has it been on?

Never heard of it! Everyday is still a school day. Sounds horrible...

Thanks @Mr Punter It will have to be on render carrier board. Does that mean 'use a cement render and paint it'?

@nod Thanks, and the "too much movement - it WILL crack" comments, are they unfounded?

We are experiencing lots of teeth sucking regarding render and timber frames, which is a bit of a worry as we planned on the ground floor of our timber frame new build being rendered. We've had comments from numerous individuals which sum up to something like "you shouldn't render on a timber frame, far too much movement'" etc. Looking through BH it looks like there are plenty of MBC frames out there with render, is it lasting well? Is there a preferred system that will look crisp and smart for decades and can you invisibly repair it should the need arise? Is there a system to avoid at all costs?

@Stones @Declan52 thanks for that feed back, it seems more 'quality' issues than 'performance' issue then.

I'm in the process of choosing our MVHR unit and whilst scouring this resource for insight I found the above comment from @Stones. Stones, would you elaborate on why you would look for something other than the Vent Axia if you were to do it again?

@Mrs S we ended up demolishing our bungalow ourselves, more by accident than design, but it was pretty easy and a lot of fun. We got the scrap value for all the metal, Crital windows, copper pipe, lead flashing, electric cable etc. We gave the run of the mill tiles away which was quite difficult because no one wanted them. We kept all the timber and spent probably around 4K getting shot of the rubble and spoil after a little mini digger had pushed what remained of the bungalow down. Asbestos was was a separate issue...

@JSHarris Excellent. Just that little tip is probably going to save £50 going in to the swear jar!

I'm resurrecting this thread in the search for advice on getting cables through the timber frame, we clearly are not so far along the build process as @ragg987 , our MBC timber frame has only just gone up but we have no cellulose insulation yet. There are various places where we would like outside lights, power for blinds and sockets etc. What is the best way to do it? Just get a chuffing great long drill (as per @JSHarris) drill a pilot hole all the way through the frame and then a hole saw inside and outside and slide the conduit in, or is that old school and there is an even smarter way of doing it these days?

That's good thinking, I'll file that one away for future reference. 👍

Just holding the GRP in place.

We are planning on using Phantom Screens externally on some of our windows and sliders. They will be concealed in the space available behind the cladding plus the timber frame will be recessed above the windows/sliders that we plan to screen. Their website has links to sectional drawings and further technical bumpf. Never used them before so I can’t comment on their effectiveness, ease of cleaning etc. https://www.phantom-fly-screens.co.uk/power-blinds-up-to-12m-wide.html