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About MikeGrahamT21

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  1. Yes you need an upstand, 25mm all way round, which would normally be tucked into the floor insulation to keep it in place, which allows for any expansion of the concrete without cracking. Bead of silicone all way round the junction to stop leakage, then put an upstand in, which can be cut to correct size once pour complete and set.
  2. I’ve got Yamaha IC400’s in my living room, as Dolby atmos height speakers and I’m pleased with them
  3. No noise on mine, really really pleased I did it, wouldn't go back now. Get a manifold and 75mm semi-rigid pipe to help cross talk between rooms, plus its easier to self install using this method.
  4. Yes, tape the joints with aluminium tape (top layer only is fine), foam any larger gaps, and smaller ones too if the nozzle will go in. You basically need to be able to pour what is the consistency of double cream on and it not go down the cracks, otherwise you are in the realm of thermal bridging, with there being more than one layer, if it gets under it could float the top layer slightly too, would be a shame after all the work. Don't worry about slight unevenness, as long as the joints are taped, everything will settle one the screed is poured
  5. Good point re. waterless trap. Mine recommended a water trap (Vortice), and the boiler also drains into the same trap, so in my case I don't think there will be any drying out.
  6. I'm also planning on CT-PIR for an upcoming build, 100mm for me though. There are a few other options, all equally expensive... https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/insulation-board/ecotherm-eco-cavity-full-fill-insulation-board-1200-x-450-x-90mm/p/670253 https://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/celotex-cf5000-premium-full-fill-cavity-boards-1200mm-x-1200mm-x-97mm-pack-of-96-138-24m2 https://build4less.co.uk/products/thermaclass-cavity-wall-21?variant=40086149398721 https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/products/insulation-boards/insulation-boards/kooltherm/kooltherm-k106-cavity-board
  7. Oh dear, someones fitted that wrong! Its basically sucking air up via the tundish, and therefore bypassing the heat exchanger, with it being cooler weather you'll have condensate, which is where the gurgling is coming from. Get rid of the tundish, and connect straight into the trap. Ideally it should be a water filled trap, with a good bend to it to prevent this. Once fixed, you'll also recover more heat too. For a very quick fix, tape the hole up in the tundish, but it must be airtight to stop that noise from happening. If it still does this after, then the airless trap doesn't like negative pressure.
  8. The cheaper ones will use EPS, more expensive ones use XPS, XPS performs slightly better, and i do mean slightly.
  9. When was the original extension done? This may have been your one free ticket to PD. I think in this case it would be ideal to setup a meeting between yourselves, your architect and the planning department to get a feeling of what may be acceptable, otherwise you are just going to be blindly guessing and spending more money on plan changes.
  10. OK, thanks for the comparison though, I've a funny feeling i've undervalued the work. Really annoying as when i planned this I was going to do all the work myself, materials were around £7.5k, but now I'm not able to do the work myself due to health reasons, I guess I should just brace myself! I wonder if prices will ever come back down again, they rarely do though!
  11. Was that shell only though or completed inside and out?
  12. I’ve got my final setup now with a Marantz nr 1710 receiver and the IC400 ceiling speakers, although there isn’t much content which is native, it does also upscale non atmos/dts:x content and this is very good, not sure I could be without now. friend has a Sonos arc plus rear speakers, this bounces off of the ceiling and also sounds very good, but despite its cost can’t replace hardwired ceiling speakers. upward firing requires a flat ceiling (no artex) to bounce properly
  13. Does anyone want to hazard a rough guess how much this extension may cost? I’ve had a couple of quotes which in itself was hard work, and came back at £27k which seemed a bit steep, especially as I’ve already got the facing bricks and this was for shell only, no internal works. got another lad visiting today to have a look and a company visiting in the coming days. the cost per m2, is it based on finished floor area, or the area of the footprint of the building? I’ve got in my head it’s finished floor area but maybe that’s where I’m going wrong. im still not up to doing the work myself so it’ll either have to be pay the high price or put it off for a while
  14. If you don’t use PIR or insulated plasterboard you’ll need a VCL on the warm side, so you may as well just go with insulated PB unless you want natural insulation. Avoid battens if you can, it’s just another thermal bridge
  15. You’ll never get a cavity 100% sealed unless it’s built that way. having the air gap will render EWI almost pointless, you’ll save a little on thermal bridging from the wall ties, but hardly any. Thermal bypass will occur in the gap. filling with slow expanding foam is an option, but you MUST use fully breathable insulation on the outside if you do. a better option is likely insulated plasterboard unless you have a good reason not to