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About MikeGrahamT21

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  1. Yeah definitely going to run the cable through conduit, was just the pipes I was thinking of taping direct to the membrane.
  2. wow that is expensive. I've seen airtight silicone cheaper than that! Whats the difference?
  3. not sure about taping to foam, doesn't seem like a reliable connection? OK, will consider running a couple of pipes through, seems like a decent solution. I suppose I should consider just running the pipes and cables bare as well, and taping them to the fabric, would be no different to when I did heating pipes a couple of years back and they were OK, maybe i'm over complicating things as usual! lol. I think its more the electrical wires which could do with being piped, and so I can pull new ones in if needed in future without disturbing everything.
  4. Cool, at least im on the right tracks then. How much did you fit through one pipe out of curiosity?
  5. Hi, Going to be starting the kitchen at some point soon which is in an extension I built about 10 years ago, got everything planned, but need a solution for the electrical cables and water pipes to come up through the floor (suspended wood) whilst being airtight. So i'll need two water pipes (1 hot, 1 cold) plus insulation, and then the usual plethora of electrical cables for the kitchen stuff and sockets. My initial thought was to use some semi rigid radial pipe (a bit like whats used in MVHR, but maybe 100mm diameter rather than 75mm) and leave a piece of rope through it to pull anything else through in future, should be easy enough to seal to the floor membrane on both sides. The entry point is the boiler cupboard, and the exit point will be about 2-2.5m away on the opposite side of the room underneath the kitchen units. Anyone got any ideas for solutions? Cheers
  6. The plans were validated, with a target date of March 30th for approval.
  7. I think you're main issue here is the width of the existing 'utility room', I'm assuming its 2.5m wide x 2m long? If you are going galley kitchen, or u shaped, the remaining floor space is going to be very restricted. My kitchen is 3.2m wide, and its tight. In an ideal world you would want the new extension to replace the existing utility and be at least as wide as the dining room. Try and think about the quality of the space you'll end up with. The picture you have just posted, is an example of what i've just described, so its obvious that you are dreaming of something more than what you've drawn primarily. Appreciate you are on a budget though, and I've never had to call on trades to do building work so I don't really know how much stuff costs, only the materials. Perhaps you haven't found the right builder yet? EDIT: Sorry just re-read your post, about it being a one sided kitchen, perhaps the width isn't too much of an issue in that case.
  8. +1 for considering going full width, I don't see why this wouldn't be possible. Are you doing the build yourself or getting someone in?
  9. All lintels generally require a minimum 150mm contact area on each side
  10. +1 for dry ridge. If the roof is fairly old, and the tiles are concrete, be very careful walking on them as they will be quite brittle and could crack, so make sure you've a few spares knocking about to replace any which go. I always try and walk on the joints, as theres a bit more thickness of tile to support my weight.
  11. The built in tape on the barriair is meant to form a tape to tape bond, which is very strong, but its hard to get a smooth seal sometimes, so I used both this and some more tape on the flapping bit of VCL to double seal it.
  12. I was reading an article on the BRE the other day about explosive centre panes, according to them its a good idea to have a toughened centre pane, no idea how much it adds to cost, it said they experience greater stresses than the panes in a double glazed unit.
  13. I was going to use this, and even did one and copied it in, but the national validation requirements states that the map must be from an official source and have the crown logo on it, something OSM can't do. its terrible really, as the maps I provided were the same really, aside from all the official bits. if you look on the last page of that document you linked, theres all the reasons there you can't use the free stuff! I too hope it goes smoothly! I think I'm kind of glad the build will start next year and not this year, gives me 12 months to get my brain in gear!
  14. Yeah you are right, not sure why I didn't change it, its literally one click in the application! Oh well, if they moan about it, i'll get it sorted. Absolutely, a vertical DPC is a requirement from BC. As for thermal bridge, not too concerned as the existing walls which are left are to be clad in 100mm EWI, and this will also prevent any damp, but BC will insist on this being there regardless of the EWI. EDIT: Maybe not, changing to mm messes the whole thing up, oh well i'll keep my fingers crossed, don't fancy drawing all that again! From the requirements it seemed to suggest it didn't matter what the units were as long as it was clearly stated, which I did on the submitted version.