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About MikeGrahamT21

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  1. To be honest, i've only ever bought the kooltherm phenolic boards from them (premium), the delivery driver told me these generally come perfect, and so far he has been right. I've gone through about 30 100mm boards, and every single one has been spot on, obviously just not 100mm, but that didn't matter to me, it was near enough, like 95mm or something. I think the PIR boards can often have damage, but if you are near then you may be able to view and pick some out?
  2. Seconds & Co for insulation, however it is dependant on the BCO and how strict they are. Where I am they don't really question it, just that its there so it doesn't matter so much.
  3. I got a sample of compacfoam, and whilst being quite solid, i wouldn't trust it with a very heavy window. I think its intended purpose was for beneath doors really where there is a firm bearing underneath it. For me, either steel angles like this, or proper timber
  4. As long as its got the foil coating, which i'm pretty sure thermapitch has, its all the same, PIR is PIR.
  5. Yeah there are many factors other than savings to take into account... comfort, sound reduction. Also you say a reduction in 0.4U as if its nothing, i would imagine if you had the chance to reduce a wall's uvalue from 0.4 to zero you'd be there in a shot 🤣
  6. good little earner for someone too keep suggesting totally different products
  7. Hard to guess not knowing what the texture is... But heres my guess: https://www.brickexpress.com/lbc-milton-buff-forterra-LBC14.brick
  8. hang on tho, is there anything actually supporting that lintel when the bricks are removed? Looks like it finishes a bit short to me
  9. Those 'purlins' look like 6x2, certainly not what they should be. The purlins in my roof (and I've not measured them) must be at least 14x4's, they're huge, though my span is bigger than this, the fact they're bending shows its not suitable. I would put some cross ties on to each set of rafters, leave those purlins which are already in, and it'll give some extra support. Search 'raised tie roof truss' to show you what i mean. Other than that, if the roof isn't leaking, and it certainly looks dry, I wouldn't worry about it. The next time you have it re-roofed, one section will just get overbattened to raise the height.
  10. Yeah, and B&Q do an even shorter version that fits in the back of most cars, but only 18mm... https://www.diy.com/departments/smooth-osb-3-floorboard-l-1-69m-w-634mm-t-18mm/1696227_BQ.prd Not the cheapest agreed, however i find its got a much superior surface to normal OSB3 TG4's, highly sanded, you can actually skate over it in socks! LOL
  11. It depends what you see on the inside. Removing a gable end would be a huge largely unnecessary job to undertake, most people would just leave it be and start again with trusses the other side. All of the bungalows on my street have this same little ripple where the party walls are between the 2 bungalows. The gaps in the tiles don't look substantial as far as I can tell, and if its been like it for 30 years, again as long as inspection on the inside checks out i'd say it will be fine.
  12. If it lines up with an extension, it'll be where the old gable end wall is
  13. Don't forget OSB3 TG4 which at 18mm will also work with the 600 ctrs, or 22mm if you want something firmer (22 OSB3 will be firmer than 22 chipboard)
  14. My bosch induction hob pulses on the lower settings, I don't see it as a problem from my experience. The power limiting people talk of is another noise, this is a clicking as it turns different rings on for a specific amount of time dependent on power setting
  15. I'm not sure to be honest. Most are multifit up to 240mm, but i'm sure there must be a standard size, there is for most things