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MikeGrahamT21's Achievements

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  1. The PVC suppliers i've used in past all say that they can send them off to be foiled in whatever colour you want, at extra cost of course.
  2. So after 2 years since the planning permission was granted, and a 2month delay from the builders I'm finally underway on what will be the last major building work on this bungalow. Having real trouble finding a joiner who's available to do the roof, so I may end up having to do that myself. The one bit i'm unsure on having never done a lean-to roof before, the wood plate which goes on the wall, is it fixed using thunderbolts?
  3. If they get to the pollination stage, theyre far to far gone. We eat the unopened flower buds essentially
  4. Is it just me or are there some loose connectors and some empty sockets? I can see two I think, the green set of wires and the blue set.
  5. Yeah you 100% need one of those olives for the compression
  6. They're tongue and groove blocks laid on their side, probably just what they had to hand at the time! Assuming thats your party wall, id say that there will be no cavity between you and next door (on my street, 70's bungalows, some are like this and some are 2 blocks and a cavity in the middle, very bizarre the difference). Best thing you can do, aside from filling the gaps, and also putting a layer of soundcoat (https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/finishing-products/gyproc-soundcoat-plus), you could use a metal frame, pack it with acoustic insulation and then top with 15mm soundblock plasterboard, all depends how much space you can free up for it, if any. Take a look at my blog, i did a similar project in my living room, might give you some ideas.
  7. flexible cement based tile adhesive for sticking cement boards down, or whatever the manufacturer recommends.
  8. Re. the draining. My dishwasher has a good 2m drain pipe run along the floor, up the back of the sink unit and into the sink plumbing, and doesn't retain any water (also a Beko), but it does go up and over, meaning that other water would never be able to enter the pipe, never had any issues so far. If everything is downhill on yours, then yes, get a pipe extension and make sure that a bit is uphill to stop it flowing the wrong way from the sink
  9. Yeah its bang on, but not all the eurocones fit. Made this mistake on a single radiator that I was rushing to put on, in the end i thought the TRV design must have changed, it was only after i'd put a 16-15mm converter on, did I realise i'd just picked up the wrong eurocone!! Loosing my marbles i tell ya! From memory the single seal ones are the ones that fit, the double seal ones are too wide.
  10. And if you get the right shaped eurocone, you can do what I did, and pop that inside your TRV, so you get a direct 16mm connection to the 15mm TRV
  11. Yes my old meter used to run backwards for a short period of time before the ratchet kicked in, never enough to make any real difference, but i guess over the years it probably added up.
  12. If the whole of eurocell is the same as my local branch, they only supply AGC glazing now, which will only get you to around 1.0U, so to achieve this you would need to source the glazing from somewhere else.
  13. I wouldn’t be stressing over 3mm, 47mm is ample for an air gap.
  14. How about leave the door as is, no sill, and instead use something like this under it: https://ewistore.co.uk/shop/external-wall-insulation/verge-trim-upstand-2-5m-110mm/ As long as its sealed correctly in the right places it should work. There will be a thermal bridge of course, but if its an outbuilding it shouldn't cause you issues.
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