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I've just done the query. The daily averages (rounded to nearest kWh) for Sep..May are 2, 16, 17, 23, 25, 22, 19, 9, 5 kWh or 4,148 kWh total. I also run a small oil-filled electric heater on an overnight timer in my first floor study Nov-Feb with the hours per night depending roughly on the average external temperature. I estimate that this adds another 480 kWh so the total heating load is around 4,700 kWh with about 90% at E7 tariff. I just had a look at my "JSH style" initial estimate. The main error that I made in this was due to my assumption that all other electricity use ends up as waste heat which for heating days also warms the house: our new house electrics are more energy efficient so the base load is less than I estimated, and therefore we need more top-up. I also used a temperature set-point of 21°C rather than our currently preferred average which is around 22.8°C. Adjusting for both of these, the new estimate (to my amazement) was also 4,700 kWh . On reflection, it looks like my 10kWh mentioned above was just a measure of the thermal banking in the main ring foundations within the warm slab. It looks like the mitigation did its job. TL;DR: our as-built thermal performance is a good ballpark of the as-designed. I am currently on an OVO 2 year fixed tariff at 9.19p and 15.81p per kWh + VAT, so totals roughly £490 for my annual heating cost. DHW, cooking and all other use is on top. Given that I use little or no heating for the 4 summer months, I can cross check my total annual bill against the annualised cost for these summer months and this is consistent with this figure. Incidentally I estimate that switching to use an ASHP would only save perhaps 50-60% of this (at an average CoP of 3 say, but more peak rate tariff), say £290 p.a. That's why I find it difficult to justify the cost of installation of an ASHP. I am going to switch to an Octopus ToU tariff but the process is that you have to switch to Octopus on an interim single rate tariff until they switch your smart meter, so I am waiting until April because I want to take advantage of the OVO off-peak tariff in the meantime. I also have no components in the system requiring annual professional maintenance so I have no annual maintenance bills.

Easy remedy would be to take the reveal off and replace it with a wider piece Then rub the edge Down with a sureform Same with the walls Let them run past 5 mil

Hi all! My partner and I are hopefully the soon-to-be owners of a long, narrow garden plot in Midlothian (Scotland). Once we've got over the eyewatering cost of the land, the plan is to build a modest (110sqm) 3 bed timber frame & SIPS house to be our forever home. It's just us (no kids or pets) so it seems like we'll have plenty of space. I'm a metalworker, but was previously an architecture workshop tech, so although I'm fairly handy most of my experience is in making tiny models of houses! Looking forward to scaling it up a bit The house is a kit home, designed, built and erected by the same company. Fairly straightforward rectangular footprint, completely larch clad plus a concrete tiled roof. As complete novices to the self-build game, it seemed like a straightforward way of getting the shell up to wind and watertight + roof and cladding with minimal fuss. I know it'll probably end up being more pricey this way, but for me the trade-off for less stress and also having someone who is actually invested in the airtightness + quality of the build from the get-go is worth it. It'll have MVHR, PV panels on the roof and a small woodburner, plus a couple of towel rails in the bathrooms and electric rads in the upstairs bedrooms. No UFH or ASHP, which I'm sure some of you will think is madness! We like a cool house but getting the place airtight will be a priority (and we can always tack on an air-to-air ASHP if we regret our choices down the line!!). Since we're in Scotland, the number of days where we reach temperatures above 20 degrees are few and far between enough that we're less worried about overheating. Still getting a few details & costs sorted out at this stage, especially related to groundworks and passive rafts - they seem to vary in price so much! If anyone has any wisdom about the general quality or service of one company over the others I would be very grateful - leaning towards ISOQUICK at the moment because of the promptness of their emails and thorough quote, as well as the availability of various thicknesses of the foam. Looking forward to getting stuck in, and hopefully benefiting from your collective wisdom C

No plasticiser additives when using lime, lime dose it for you.

I asked my BCO about lap. We discussed the local area weather and how sheltered the site was and settled on a number. I selected 600x300 slates because it meant fewer battens and fewer slates to nail so was cost neutral over the 500x250 slates. The roof is big enough to look right with larger slates.

Just had our roof finished in Matacouta 8-9mm, they are quite dark and were more or less evenly pre-graded. We did not want a flat looking roof and are please with overall look and finish.

Hi @Thorfun found this useful for working out number of slates per m2 required , and what's in budget.

Hi Mine is a one bed house with double garage so house is only 7.25m x 5.5m two story in Isotex icf

IIRC I paid a tenner a panel with clips and foot for my used ones

True that, you jave shown me the light, amen, hallelujah. You've literally saved hours of my life with those photos - much obliged?

Difference is that @Onoff scews his lines using a lazer, your gun must literally be of the shotgun kind judging by your screw 'groupings' ??

One for when you do your fence:

I can't rate my Lidl Parkside collated screw gun highly enough though it's mains powered. I'm going to invest in one of these in my continued quest for ever cheaper, no name tools! [£20.24 48% OFF]Drillpro Upgrade Chain Screw Gun Drill Adapter Chain Nail Gun Adapter for Electric Drill Tool Accessories from Tools on banggood https://banggood.app.link/q7VtTpj9veb Tbh I reckon I could design and print an adapter to take the front end of the Parkside gun and attach to a cordless drill......

I'm not sure to be honest. Most are multifit up to 240mm, but i'm sure there must be a standard size, there is for most things

I’d rather the plasterer ‘prep’ it all . Don’t want to make it worse .... See what he says Thursday ?

I would go and cut myself a pile of 5mm and 11mm ply spacers. Rip a piece to 6 inches then slice it into 1-3 inch pieces. A big pile of them will be great for sorting out all sorts. My brother had a real craftsman of a joiner working in his 1900's house a few years ago, while my brother was away for 2 weeks holiday I was to go in and check things were going OK - the first day I arrived to check I noted the guy had done a brilliant job of 12mm exterior ply lining all the wonky floors, what struck me was the massive pile of various thickness ply spacers he had cut for the next stages of the work. As I came in each day I noticed these perfect little packed out bits and all sorts using all his spacers he had cut. They were all equal size and very very neat. I did the same when I was renovating bits of our house and trying to fit square stuff into squint rooms!

Yes, I would keep an eye on the joints following and also on one of the walls run the membrane up and under the coping. For the higher wall a DPC will be installed under the copings so in theory failure of the mortar joints shouldn't let water ingress. Noted and agreed on running the membrane up higher... That is the intention on all areas besides the one where the membrane will run full height.

Just buy a correctly rated proper power supply. I hate these kits from Ikea and the like because they sell them with inappropriate wallwart style PSU's which as you are finding are no good to hardwire in correctly. Most of these tapes are 24V - some domestic market ones are 12V - just work out the watts per meter, multiply up by your run length and that gives you the power, then get the right voltage to suit your LED's - so if you need 34.8W and 24V go find a 45W power supply or what not. I have used these guys a lot: https://www.sunpower-uk.com/product-category/led-lighting-power-supply/constant-voltage-led-drivers/ Only additional issue you have is your using RGB - you are going to need to control each channel separately to achieve the colours you want, so you will need to incorporate a little dimmer for those - you can also put each colour onto a separate power supply and use a 3G dimmer - 1 for each channel but that might get a bit clunky. I'd probably use a little LED colour scene controller or put it onto a Shelly controlled via my phone.

This looks rough as arseholes? Glad you put this pictures up, I know now what I can get away with. Never having plasterboard before I thought it might need to be as neat as possible, good to know that all sins can be sorted by the plasterer ?

Usually these for solid fuel fires: https://www.toolstation.com/high-top-birdguard/p71603

No to sticks like, my plasterer says so. If anything, fill in those corners with a bit of bonding coat plaster, it does not need to be good. That is certainly some "unique" plasterboarding.

All trades get bought a coffee , doughnut , pasty and sandwich . This stops any complaints....

Think in terms of achieving the best U value you can afford, rather than just the bare minimum.

yes, that might lead to unstable corners beads ?, @nod will be along in a mo with his thoughts!!!!

But it is usually NOT sorted. To get an air tight house it is all down to detail being done properly. Sadly a lot of people do not know or do not care about doing it properly. It is far better to make the whole fabric of the building air tight, then all the wiring and plumbing can be contained in a service void without having to penetrate the air tight layer.

It’s his insurance protection to over engineer to allow for poor installation methods. not everyone out there is as fastidious about the details as we are

I think your architect is a little out of touch .. Prelims - so site setup including toilets (£20/wk) Cabin, site security / heras fence are added into the overall costs and paid accordingly. Same with materials, any decent builder is on 30 or 45 days with their merchants - you should see at least some of the benefits of that. As @Conor says, 3% at end of first week would be a preferable solution and also ensure your contract has payment terms agreed - invoices due 14 days after presentation and agreement is my normal stance, gives chance for any queries to be raised but that should be agreed up front. Any main contractor presenting an invoice on a Friday for payment “immediately” when they have a contract with you would be a red flag.

If your architect is managing the payments and you are happy crack on. just make sure you have a defects period and a good amount to cover getting someone else back in to do it. sometimes architects and main contractors can have relationships and all you are is the cheque book, they move on to work on the next job, maintaining their relationship you are forgotten about so make sure all the decisions are based on your interests and not what’s easy for the main contractor

try suggesting that to other family members.....?

Usual issue is if you are relying on the plasterboard and skim to be your air tight layer is you then leave the possibility of it being a "plasterboard tent" What usually happens through simple lack of attention, is this gap behind the plasterboard ends up being open to the cold loft space. It is almost normal up here in the winter when i unscrew a socket or a light switch in a house, to be greeted by a blast of icy cold air coming out from behind the plasterboard tent. You really want to make the fabric of the building air tight so the plasterboard remains within that.

It wasn't a 6" step that bothers me, you can tilt it and walk it up onto that on your own. It was the idea of putting it up almost at worktop height. The issue is I cannot lift a WM that high on my own, 2 strong people could do it but I am only one not so strong old person with SWMBO not being up to lifting half the weight of a WM so every time you want to lift it up or down onto it's elevated spot you need to find a strong willing helper or pay someone. I don't like the idea of "building in" the need to get someone else in to help me maintain something.

In that case can you not go with a breathable membrane? It will be much better for the structure as a whole.

Knowledge no, time yes. Well, I was living onsite in a caravan and worked from home so was always 'around' but was not hanging on everyones shoulder. Was really a case of explaining the ground rules to new trades, but TBH the spark and plumber already knew the rules and had worked with the frame before. Yep, only regret really is not putting in ducting to allow for a future split aircon. I honestly would never advertise my house as passive (or any kind of 'eco' label, even low energy) nor would many estate agent recommended it. I guarantee you would repel far more buyers that you would ever attract. The number of people who would actually understand what it meant and ask to see certification, I expect you could count on one hand. if / when I ever come to sell, I hope havinga house in a good location of a contemporary style (that will appeal to some but not all), lots of space and finished to a high standard will be attractive to buyers - the low energy bills and general living comfort will be of interest but that's it. I think the majority of self builders ensure they can oversee construction to some degree - this does not mean 'over the shoulder' monitoring of trades but a clear expectation of what is required and selecting trades who share that understanding and are competent to execute it. Even the best PM, taking a 10% cut of the build budget, will be on site at most a few times a week. So the key to success lies in selecting contractors and trades who have a proven history in building low energy houses - there's a good reason many here have used turnkey timber frame providers as it de-risks the most critical stage of the construction.

Also have an 8 burner range and I run it off 13kg bottles, I get 10-12months usage from one bottle!

The man who built his own house and erected his own scaffolding considers raising a washing machine 6" a lift too far? That's odd.

+1 Its not normal to pay a deposit to the builder. They work in arrears and you retain 5% of each stage payment until snagging has been done at the end.

Why..??? Never pay up front for anything ..! Site insurance is cheap - just get it in place and take the hit on a month or two. You should already have the site insured anyway.

Do loft/roof vents count as "openings into a building"? The calor guide says no openings into a building within 2m.

I think he is talking rubbish, unless he is looking at combustible materials above a cooker or appliance rather than the bottles

It’s an easy 2 man lift

I am not convinced your stairs will work. Don't base your plans on what is there, it will be a new staircase based on current building regs. Replacing the second set of winders on the existing stair with a new quarter landing, will make the overall length of the stair longer and that is before you allow for modern building regs limits on rise and going which may add another stair if the old one was steeper than current regs. Go to one of the on line star suppliers and model it properly on their design tools. The "snug" is not very snug is it? If you want a proper "snug" swap the kitchen and snug over so the kitchen joins the dining and living, and the snug can be a proper separate room at the front.

Fully intend to appeal and confident I'd win given how weak their objection is and easily disprovable it is. Just annoying what a waste of time it's going to be.

Which is the issue with the system - as someone who has applied (at least in our area) you are only allowed 3 minutes to state your case. Objectors can also have 3 minutes. But...... The committee then debate things - and in our case, they are seriously not au fait with planning law - it's all 'well I think xyz' etc. and if the chief planning officer has recommended refusal, then he'll egg them on. If on the other hand he's recommended approval then he'll gently teach them a thing or two.... And yes the chairman has generally taken a position in some pre-meeting with the head of planning. In our case it was recommended for refusal but one quite senior councillor pointed out the stupidity of what they were saying, it ended up 5 for and 5 against and the chairman voted against - we resubmitted, our champion was on a skiing trip and the councillor who was sitting in for him was one who had voted against the previous time and someone else was back and it was a draw again - and the chairman voted against AGAIN!!! The appeal inspector was polite but essentially said - I don't know what on earth the council are on about - permission granted. There have been some twists since then - we had outline but on trying to talk to planning about what we wanted to do a contractor was assigned as planning officer who pointed out that the original application wasn't valid because the red line didn't show access from the public highway - it's on a private lane..... the law actually says that the red line 'should' show access to the public highway, not that it 'must' another few months of stress..... DON'T GIVE UP!! simon

its hard to see from the photo but it doesn't look like there is a tray or dpc on the chimney toi stop water transmission through it, the repointed top is a bit of a giveaway. have a look at LABC https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/blog/how-to-ensure-your-chimney-is-constructed-correctly/

You will need 3 tools to fit the Tata / Catnic, listed below. I also purchased a metal blade for a circular saw. Its straight forward to fit, nailing strip on one side and hit with a hammer and block of wood the other. I had 300 sqm to fit and 7 Velux to fit round which was a bit of a challenge. You might find the delivery charge is more than the product. 1 EAVES CLOSER CU094300 Tools 2 STUBAI PLIERS CU094200 Tools 3 FLANGE MATE CU094400 Tools

No worries . I’m a bit like Jesus tbh . But not quite . Bet he never tiled or put up plasterboard - lazy (expletive deleted) . Heard his woodworking skills were shit also

Sadly the truth hurts...

Found this. Definitely rougher... ? Makes mine look ace!

The things we choose to dispute to create entertainment on a cold wet March day!

So nice to see this nearing completion, we've almost out the ground, on a hill we get to do that three times ? Exciting times ahead with scaffolding coming down, can't wait to get there. Having a partner that gets stuck in is so great - must tell my wife ?