TerryE

Members
  • Content Count

    2,718
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

TerryE last won the day on March 24 2017

TerryE had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

632 Excellent

4 Followers

About TerryE

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Northamptonshire, UK

Recent Profile Visitors

2,638 profile views
  1. As the guys say one or two Willis heaters will cost under a £100. We've got a decent spec 4 double bedroom house, and we keep it toasty over winter with one Willis heater, and as F say the advantage is that having this makes your ASHP non-critical in terms of maintenance: if it goes offline even for a month in the winter the incremental cost is in the £10s.
  2. See our Dew Point thread and specifically
  3. TerryE

    Fire Barriers

    As @Simplysimon says you need them around any fenestration opening which breaches the airgap. And on corners and I would also suggest at the eaves. There is not need to barriers between floors s in an English 2 two-storey single occupancy dwelling, but they are required n Scotland, IIRC. The aim of the barriers is limited to providing 30 min protection to allow the house to be safely evaluated. If its any form of multi-occupancy then the requirements have a step change. Barriers in any penetrations to the internal plasterboard skin is also needed: intumescent pads in the back of all power sockets etc, and a red sausage stop at the top of each service void and any through floor penetrations. What you don't want happening is a hidden fire within the service void working its way into the floor voids and across flaws.
  4. TerryE

    UFH test pressure and duration.

    We didn't and didn't have any problems. The MBC crew that we used said that they'd never had any problems with any of their slabs. We use an up-and-over pumping system for pour so we didn't have any material issues with heavy barrows over the pipe runs. So IMO, the risks are low and if at all they are during the pour itself. There are two other factors that you need to consider: We were getting our slab laid in early Nov, so there was a real risk of the slab going below 0°C with water in the pipework. Really not a good idea, so you should really blow out the water after the test. Doing the pressure test involves fitting the manifold (and possibly needing to reposition and refit it when you have the TF adjacent wall in place), as well as the test itself. This is going to man that the MBC crew is going to have to schedule a gap day between completing the UFH (typically the last thing that they do before the pour) and doing the pour itself. I did do a pressure test (IIRC, about 6 months later in the early spring) and cranked the loops up to 5 bar with no problems. We run the UFH at 1bar now.
  5. TerryE

    UFH versus Radiators

    Fair point Ed. But we operate our three loops as a single zone so we don't have TRVs on the manifold. The other advantage is that all this stuff in is a single services cupboard with a concrete floor, so no risk to carpets.
  6. TerryE

    UFH versus Radiators

    @jonM, in our last house, we had one rad that spontaneously developed a pinhole leak over a weekend when we were away and came home to find the landing carpet and living room carpet below sodden. We also had 3 TRVs need replacing whilst we were in the house. My son has just spent £300 getting a leak fixed in his CH system in his 10mm copper piping in the ground floor concrete. So that's two instances where I can personally testify of major failure in conventional CH systems. On the other hand the PexAlPex UFH are continuous in slab (no joints because I watched them lay it). I am confident that jointless PexAlPex UFH will out live me.
  7. TerryE

    UFH versus Radiators

    UFH every time. Like many others we have an MBC twin-wall with a blown cellulosic insulation filler. We also have an exterior stone stone to fit in with the local context. UFH on the ground floor heated by an inline 3kW (Willis) heater. No heating on the 1st or 2nd floor apart from an electrical rad in the master bedroom en-suite. No rads anywhere. Cheap, simple effective. I have to offer a dissenting opinion to @jonM's designer. I feel that he really misses the main point here: if you have a reasonable specification passive design (our slab, TF + insulation and air-tightness cost less than our stone skin so it was hardly an expensive option), then you just keep the whole house at the same temperature all day and year round. It's just not worth trying to save the odd £100 p.a. by trying to have different zones or shaping the heat across the day. A couple of times we've dropped our heating for a day or two. We didn't notice because the house only loses about 1°C / day in temperature with no heating; and it then takes a couple of days to regain this, and if you try to force it you end up in an over-compensating roller coaster. Our 1st floor might be a degree or so cooler than the ground floor in winter, but we prefer that. I don't know how we could get it much cooler if we tried. As with Jeremy and others, the supplier's site team tied the UFH pipework to the rebar grid in the slab before the pour: a ½ day's work instead of all those rads and internal plumbing. No comparison, IMO. The difference is that there is no maintenance needed for the pipework in the slab for the life of slab, but rads and TRVs etc. will need maintenance. Also not having those bloody rads under the windows everywhere just makes decorating and dressing all the rooms so much more straightforward.
  8. @JamesHopeful, read your NoD carefully. We have this one as well and AFAIK, this clause is pretty standard. Minor interior changes such as moving an internal doorway or adding internal non-load bearing walls are one thing, but the planning enforcement may take a very different attitude to changes which impact the exterior of the property such as the look of the principle elevation, changes to overlooking, or even the distance of the property from any neighbours.
  9. TerryE

    Powering Sunamp

    I use E7 low rate to heat my 2×SunAmp PVs, and to be honest we seem to use so little hot water that there isn't really the cost justification of adding a buffer tank for preheat even when we install our ASHP. So the big pluses for this approach are (1) simplicity; (2) No Part G3 requirements so I could do everything myself. (3) still relatively low running costs for our usecase.
  10. TerryE

    How Do?

    Gives the tide mark too long to settle The boss likes a spotless bath.
  11. TerryE

    How Do?

    Sad isn't it? Though I tend to compromise and let it cool to around the high 20s since this is moderately quick and losing that last 7°C or so takes quite a long time. What a bunch of sad old farts. I must admit that you can get a bit too anal about this. Bare with this seeming non-sequitur: Jan and I have a massage every two weeks turn and turn about (and before Clive starts chipping in with his dirty innuendos, this is a straight Swedish-style massage and no funny stuff). Even before we add our ASHP, our monthly energy bill is almost exactly the same as our massage bill, and under half our council tax.
  12. TerryE

    SunAmp : Snog, Marry, Avoid?

    I am very happy with my 2 × SunAmp PV, but reading this thread, then if I was having to start again with SunAmps, then I'd be tempted to stick with the UniQ 9 HW using a external Willis and circulating pump to heat it. That way I could have precise control of the heating strategy.
  13. TerryE

    New farmhouse in Central Scotland

    Consider using a twinwall Larson strut TF with blown cellulosic filler. Better decrement delays.
  14. TBH the only thing so far (after 16 months of occupancy) was that the TF construction crew put in cross bracing 50×75s (IIRC, but the might have been 50×100s) threaded through the ecoJoists during erection and these were nailed to the ecoJoists at the intersections. On one cross-over in each of the main and guest bedrooms there is maybe a couple of mm flex which causes noticeable creak as you walk over them -- trivial to fix before boarding out, but we would need to lift carpets and do keyhole surgery to fix these now. Even so, given that two floor creaks are my only annoyance, I think that I must have been lucky / all that anal attention to detail has paid off.
  15. TerryE

    A Change of Materials

    As I say, it all depends on the local context. If you can keep them onside, then this is best option. Some LPAs seem to encourage the arsehole approach