keith65

I have installed the SAHP 200, I have not looked at energy figures as of yet will look at it more when I have moved in. There is no air vent as it has an external panel with 2 10mm copper pipes attached where the refrigerant is pumped by the compressor these can be sealed with airtight grommets and tape as they pass through wall. SAHP | Award-Winning Solar Assisted Heat Pumps

I have fitted a 200Lt tank in my house but will not be moving in for a month but it is up and running and keeps a tank of hot water and only kicks in to top up from heat loss when the tank goes below 50 degrees from 55. I think once a day. When running it uses the same as a fridge.

Look up a SAHP they do a 130, 200 and a 300 lt tank worth a look

Time has seamed to have gone so quickly and work has not keep up. I thought I would have finished a long time ago but still working through, but some light at the end of the tunnel. Have managed to make the stairs and first fix pluming and electrician has finished first fix then all the plaster boarding and skimming done what a Christmas. My arms did not know what hit them. Now onto second fix so have fitted the kitchen and bathroom out and put in the feature wall behind stairs. Plumbing all finished just need to get the SAHP hot water system commissioned, and second fix electrics has started and also have started to lay the LVT flooring. I used the Eger flooring with the protective covering and did not realise you can`t glue the flooring straight on top so have hade to lay 6mm ply down first but as i am using it on the stairs have also had to add to stair treads to keep the rise the same.

I have built with Isotex and have found it very easy to work with, and found them very help full. But almost went for Jackon Thermomur as I cut the ICF firms down and ended with just two firms on a short list, but have been very happy with what I chose.

22mm all the time even at 400 centres, plenty of glue and screws never have to think about it again.

I cut back the front block to the depth of the cill left a gap of 25mm to the insulation and concrete and then put airtight foam in then window sits over the joint. Then on the inside fit window board or slate cills as normal.

I would fitted slate cills and have a stub cill on the window mine are wood but it will work with UPVC

If this is a warm roof adding insulation under the roof timbers might cause condensation in the future. Best to keep all insulation on the outside on a warm roof.

You could look at ICF

The lintel should extend 100mm each side of the window unless there is another one above, but a lintel needs to be supported on something not on the window

Have you looked at a SAHP tank and thermal panel as can be linked to PV

I have been putting up plasterboard dot and dab and before I have had a chance to skim, the black mould is forming so have had to put in a dehumidifier running 24/7 I think the warm moist air in the southwest does not help one bit.

If you read the back of PU glue pot, you would not use it

You can get a D4 PVA glue it is just most people use PU glues now as they foam so fill gaps.