Buzz

Personally i would start by sounding out different builders/trades locally , get estimates from builders who will quote to build up to the shell with roof and tiles including groundworks and drainage . these will only be an estimate at this time but will give you a good feel as to where you need to be £ per m2.

Hi @hbooth how many other quotes are you waiting for to come in ? As long as they all quote like for like it will soon become apparent where you need to be with the price . Looks a bit heavy to me but getting out of the ground can be an expensive business.

Assuming I have enough pressure does this solve the problem of shower dribble when you turn another tap on ?

Thanks @PeterW, problem is we are not connected yet , is there any way of finding this out before connection? I was with anglian water today and know it will be connected to the main line on the other side of the road .

Thanks @joe90, are you saying one feed into a manifold with multiple feeds out for hot water and the same for the cold water ?

In our old house we suffered from every time someone turned a tap on or flushed a toilet the shower would slow to a dribble i assume this was because they were on the same "line" to prevent this in our new build is it worth having the bathrooms on independent water lines , 1 for each room ? Or us there a better solution?

Thanks for the replies, it made more sense to me to run them above rather than below for the very reason @Russell griffithspoints out .

A basic question before i have a site meeting with the plumbers we have a block and beam floor with 225mmm to dpc to be filled with insulation UFH and screed , although it is a bungalow we do not have any roof trusses we have posi joists at celling level and a cut roof above so the question is where does the 1st fix pluming go we already have the waste pipes in through the floor but what about the hot and cold water pipes? , on the floor and then up through the insulation and screed or through the joists and down the walls ? is it personal preference or do they have to go into the floor .

Another alternative would be to stay at 150mm and swap pir for eps , you will save some money on the insulation and can keep the same depth screed.

Your wall calculations appear to be out as well , as others have said if you can go for 150mm full fill this will bring u-values down to .17

It doesn't according to Kingspan , and that is straight onto concrete or B+B .

What on earth are you cooking up in your kitchen 🤔 😳

Hi @Zak S this an exciting time and also one of the most important to get right ,over commit now and face the agony of trying to raise extra funds or compromise on the final finishes, play it too safe and you may always regret not building what you really wanted.

Well done , hope the last couple of small things are just that .

Expensive it may be but you only have to buy it once but get to look at it evey day 😁