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About Vijay

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  1. Also look at Polarwall for curved walls
  2. I got mine from these guys and they were simply brilliant!! They worked out what I needed but I ended up doing my own plan and it's worked out well. Members on here helped me understand the system as I'd never seen it before. As ProDave said, you might be easier to buy a package. Where abouts are you cos if you can visit a site using the stuff, makes it so easy to understand the system once you physically see it. Vijay
  3. I can't see why you wouldn't use edging tape. Fix with wood glue, using a hot iron over a cloth to dry the glue almost instantly (which also makes the tape sit nice and flat). Then use a small fine file to take the excess edging off.
  4. This is just my own personal opinion but a PM is never gonna care as much about your project as you and they are never gonna find the cheapest deals. On a self build near mine, the PM never went to site and was shocked when he was fired - after the floor went in at wrong levels and he expected the customer to pay for it to be put right! As Dan Fest said, a good main contractor will more than likely know other trades that he/she uses and knows their work. Out of interest, have you had a price for a PM?
  5. Exactly what I did, but IIRC the inline fan I fitted had the timer option
  6. You can get inline fans, then duct under the floor to an an external wall (if you have floor boards). So the extraction vent is low in the toilet and would go out to an air brick.
  7. Vijay

    Will this work?

    Acrypol has fibres in it, it's not just a paint If it was me, I would use a pressure washer to clean the roof and if you still believe it's in good condition, Acrypol it if it's just a few years your after. You could always recoat it in a few years which is exactly what I've done/doing at my Mums
  8. Vijay

    Will this work?

    Roofers use Acrypol, around £150 for 20l. I've used it on my Mums roof and found it to be good stuff. Just warm up the can by leaving it in hot water or the hot sun for ages
  9. It'll only take 5 minutes lol Seriously though, I know what you mean, but my plan is to have them all cut and ready to place in between the H rails. Screw holes will all be pre-drilled. I know on pour day I need manpower, better to have too many bodies than not enough. Should be at least 6 of us including Alan from Polarwall.
  10. I've been told to set the plate/fixings onto the wet concrete. Surely it makes sense to do it that way rather than trying to get holes in the timbers in the right position later on?? I see you point abut truss location
  11. I haven't heard back from the BM yet but I'm gonna push for a refund. I don't really want to be stuck with 32 x 4.8m lengths of 6x2 if they stay twisted (even with them laid flat and weight on them) So, I'm gonna look at making the pole plates up in ply. Any suggestions on which ply to use? The issue I will still have is for the wall plates that the attic trusses will sit on. Are there other solutions apart from using 150 x 2 timbers? Worst case scenario is I can use threaded bar set into the ICF core when I pour the concrete, then wind the timber back into place if it has twisted?
  12. Had a chat with Polarwall today and he basically said get a refund on the timber and use 2 x 18mm ply ripped down and glued/screwed. He said Kero boards are great but expensive and way OTT for what's needed. 2 x 150's to make a 300 would have been no issue if they weren't twisted, I would have had no problem doing that. Completely agree about buying 300 timbers, around £50 odd quid for a 4.8m length and probably have the same issues
  13. Polarwall is slightly different, it's a panel system that uses H rails, the ICF boards sit into. Basically I would replace an ICF board with timber and that would act as the pole plate. This is from another post where you can see the timber board in place