JamesP

@Taff Have to wait a year to really understand how well it performs in all weather conditions. It just works very well so far. Many others on the Forum have the same product.

It has only been in use since Feb 2020 so I have limited experience. Not noticed any issues so far. It has just been left to run when required, not timed. It has a n Eddi PV diverter fitted so during May and June it used 4 kWh a day for hot water. In March it used 6.6 kWh per day. Family of 4, so 4-6 showers a day, occasional bath and washing up. It is very quiet compared to a NIBE. What @PeterW mentioned early is a good point.

We have the following in our new self build. MITSUBISHI ECODAN PUHZ-W85VAA with a 300 Litres PRE PLUMBED EHPT30X cylinder. Supplied 2019.

Can you clarify for me that I can increase the UVC temp up to 75 degrees when sunny using the PV diverter as at the moment it switches off by 10am on a sunny day as its reached its temp of 56 degrees set on the Ecodan. The higher tank temp in effect increases the tank volume by blending with cold?

Is this for a new build EPC? We scored 91 - B without an air test as was told it was not necessary. For an additional fee however for an air test it would score an A. Average rating in England is 60. Don't worry.

Hi there We are running similar temperatures at the moment with doors and windows open, also no cladding on the exterior yet, which hopefully will have an impact. Would you share how much difference the cooling has once you have switched it off. Thanks.

Thanks Peter, I will add some better quality photos to show the the colour and grain of the birch plywood.

Do not under estimate this advice.

I recently fitted a 10mm glass screen, 2000mm x 1200mm. Fixed on one side and I used some Transparent Setting and Distance Blocks - 4mm Thickness in the U channel fixed to the wall and between the glass and tray. I felt if the screen was knocked the blocks allow a little bit of absorption.

Boom X 2, not a lot of words but you understand.

@Prodave I made the timber frame using 3 layers, 140mm vertical, 70mm horizontal and then 50mm vertical at 600 centres which the OSB is fixed. I fitted the batten every 400mm which I thought would help firm up the plasterboard. The screeders use tripods with an adjustable level to help measure the required depth of the material.

The kitchen has a 10.5 metre steel ridge which protrudes into the vaulted ceiling by 50cm. I also attached the ventilation 75mm pipework along the side of the steel to supply the living room at the opposite end. So a curved ceiling to run underneath the inside of the ridge. A simple explanation is imagining a skateboard halfpipe upside down. I built a frame out of ply with cutouts for batten to run the entire length of the ceiling. I then fitted a layer of 6mm red faced ply to create a curve. Then the final layer of 4mm birch plywood, glue and pinned and treated with Osmo oil. Well, it took a while. I know my building is not 100% square as one of the long kitchen walls was leaning out when we fitted the original rafters but overall the sheets all butted up square with only one sheet needing a little fillet added. I started in the middle of the room to allow any discrepancies to dealt with at either end. Then it was back to more plaster boarding and a novice bee keeper. More to follow.

Seemed to spend most of the winter and spring fitting plasterboard. At times I struggled to keep motivated. About 275 sheets later and still a bathroom and living room to board out even now. The plasterer did a great job, I have great admiration for the skill. Did some drainage and fitted the Vortex treatment plant and rainwater harvesting tank aswell as the. mains supply to the house as the ASHP arrived ready to be plumbed in. My dear Father built the staircase which went straight in. I showed him a photo of a staircase without stringers and he just got on with it. Thank you Dad. Its nearly May 2019 and the kitchen ceiling issue is nearing a solution.

In response to @Russell griffiths post about blogs, here goes. It is still 2018. I finished the Tata Colorcoat Urban roof, tricky around the Velux windows and fitting the ridge trying not to get sealant everywhere. No leaks 2 years later. Kwikstage very useful, heavy but a worthy purchase on a long self build. I made up one of the roof trusses for the garage and thats where it sat for another year. Back inside and started to put down 150 Celotex on the ground floor, taped and polyethened ready for the screeders. All UFH supplied by Wunda, about 1200m of 16mm pipe on the ground floor for 14 ports from 2 manifolds. All cliptrack and staples. Take care not to kink the pipe and take photos and measurements if you might be fixing anything to the floor. The electrician arrived and made great progress and then the screeders in early December 2018, 200sqm of 45mm anhydrite down in 2-3 hours. Once the electrician had finished first fix I started battening the OSB ready for the plasterboard, I notched out around the wiring. I fitted some resilient bars to all the ground floor ceilings, little cost apart from fitting time. It's now 2019.

Just started fitting some mdf pencil round architrave / skirting. Bought a few new tools, fine cut saw 9tpi and a coping saw. The Mitre fast is excellent for fixing the door architrave together before nailing to the door frame. Nailing which is a novelty in my build. Pink grip goes off quite quickly and Toupret wood filler excellent. No nonsense caulk for filling small gaps. I use a damp sponge to clean excess off as you go. @Oz07 What foam do you use as I find the Pinkgrip a little hard?