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LA3222 last won the day on November 13

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About LA3222

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  1. OK, I prefer that as it means I can take my time working out from the manual how to get it all set up myself rather than paying the spark to learn it.
  2. You've given me some food for thought here @PeterW It prompted me to contact a couple of companies that install ASHP and I quickly realised it will be hard to find a company willing to do it non MCS/RHI install. They all want their pound of flesh with the extra overage on cost that an MCS install brings. This brings me back full circle to doing it myself as far as practicable. I'm not after complicated control systems using RPi etc, just a simple setup where if the UVC or UFH buffer call for heat, the ASHP turns on and supplies said heat. I'm trying to find a plumber to do the all of the plumbing between the ASHP and UFH manifolds and the G3 cert. In theory this would leave me having to connect the ASHP into the start of the circuit and the manifolds to the buffer vessel and then it would be complete from a mechanical sense. Electrically, wiring the FTC would have to be done by the electrican for Part P purposes?
  3. Cheers Dan, I was looking for something else to read to fill all that spare time I have😒🤣🤣
  4. I was hoping go, given the frequent mentions of people successfully self installing i figured it would be relatively straight forward. Now I'm thinking otherwise. I dont doubt I can do it myself, I just hadn't anticipated the amount of pre reading necessary to get myself up to speed on it all. I've been doing some reading on W plans etc and that all makes sense to me now. I'm reading up on the other aspects of the setup now such as what goes on the cylinder, D1 requirements etc.
  5. Got me some heavy reading to do!! It was the images of the pre plumbed mitsubishi cylinders which had me confused as they show the box attached to the cylinder. So, I still have all that, it just sits on the wall connected to the third party cylinder rather than on it.
  6. After another look i think my head has cleared a bit!!! FTC2s are for big buildings like flats etc, FTCs 5/6 are single units for an individual house. So if I buy an Ecodan ASHP I also need either an FTC5 or FTC6 controller to go with it? I then need to get a third party cylinder to suit and bobs your uncle?🤔
  7. I have been looking some more at these ASHP and its slightly confusing. I'm sure with a bit more reading I will suss it out but as members on here may have/may understand this already it may save me some time!! The Flow Temperature Controllers for the ASHP - what is what? What is required? I see the FTC2 is a medium sized box but then confusing there are digital controllers labelled FTC5 or FTC6??? I believe that they are not the same thing even though the name is the same. Images I see has the FTC2 sat on the tank, does this have some role to play with the mitsubishi pre plumbed UVC? If so, do I require this if I go for a Telford cylinder? The FTC5 i assume I will need as this is the interface with the ASHP, allows setting inputs etc. I intend to go with the Ecodan ASHP but a UVC from elsewhere. If someone can clarify what else I need with it in terms of controllwrs etc that would be great 👍 TIA
  8. For future members who may be looking to purchase Intello Pro Clima membrane, Tescon Vana airtight tape etc, cheapest place I managed to find is a company in Germany. A search for Latzel Dammstoffe should find them. My order was with me within a couple of days, very keen pricing when compared to UK companies.
  9. I had 360 sheets of 75mm to do, found the quickest way was to use the insulation blade on the multitool to score through the foil, another run to cut through and then finish with the bahco saw to cut the foil backing. Horrible messy job, covered in PIR dust head to toe every day I did it. Tried using a face mask, zero help. I spent a couple of weeks eating/breathing PIR, horrible stuff.
  10. I'm putting wall hung toilets in. With the down stairs toilet I'm going to build the stud out to hide the frame and SVP, ill run a horizontal pipe across from the toilet to drop into the SVP much like you propose her. With this being a ground floor shower, bot sure how you'd tie that in, a low profile trap but then getting the fall. If you go for a deeper slab could you put a bit of formwork in to keep it clear of concrete?
  11. I'd agree more concrete is better, it will change the profile of the EPS insulation pieces though as the perimeter upstand will need to be 50mm higher?, which may affect pricing. If its feasible then I'd say do away with the pads, it will make things easier for you. Not sure what model it was, the neighbour is a builder and it was his. A variant of the Leica Rugby family, I expect most of the more expensive types do this, it just wasn't something i had considered until the neighbour set it up. A doddle to set up and a boon to use.
  12. Yeah, I had to tap into the main sewer just outside the drive at 3m depth. It was a 60m run to the house but falls were easy to sort out. Whilst mentioning falls, @SuperJohnG the better Lazer levels have a function on them which allows you to input the required fall into it. Once the staff is set you can then just walk down the drain run and measure away without having to change/recalibrate anything else. Makes life so bloody easy when getting the falls its unreal!
  13. What will that do to your kore quote? Simplifying sounds good, if I'd thought about it I'd have been happy to up spec the slab vs mess around with pads.
  14. 7, i have 14 port manifolds so a quite a few of my runs are doubled up.