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LA3222 last won the day on September 5

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  1. Ah right, @PeterW so if a coil is in it at all then its called 'indirect' and no coils at all is 'direct'. I was thinking that the direct refers to the UFH side having no coil but it is both sides. So if I understand it right now, a buffer tank with a coil in for the ASHP but no coil for the UFH side is still an Indirect buffer? I dont have anything specific in mind yet @Nickfromwales, I'm trying to understand the 'how' of things at the minute. So, i don't want the ASHP antifreeze running through the entire UFH system which means an Indirect buffer is the weapon of choice and Nick mentions not wanting to draw two supplies through one coil, so each manifold will need a tapping direct onto the buffer to circulate that water through the UFH system? TLDR: More than one manifold, use an Indirect buffer and have each manifold flow tapping on the buffer tank, tee the returns together then onto the buffer tank. I hope I've got this tight now😅
  2. Right, after a little bit of reading I have a few questions that I'm hoping someone can clear up for me if they would be so kind @PeterW or @Nickfromwales? Peter, you mention indirect/direct buffer and that has got me to thinking which you would use and why. What I think I understand: Both direct and indirect have a coil in them which the ASHP fluid travels through in order to dump heat into the buffer. Direct has a coil in, which is what the fluid within the UFH system travels through in order to extract heat out from the buffer. Indirect has no coil, so the fluid within the buffer is what travels through the UFH system. So, regarding putting heat into the buffer it makes no odds - it is the same for both. Taking heat out: Indirect - separate coils, bad for space in the buffer? A single shared coil, so the flow and return would need to be tee'd together? Direct - separate feeds to each manifold with the returns tee'd in? Each manifold draws heat seperately as required direct from the buffer. Question: which is the best way to skin the cat so to speak in terms of feeding two manifolds from a single buffer and why? My best guess - direct would be better as each manifold can draw separately from the buffer? Wheras indirect they would be sharing a coil? Thanks for any advice you can give.
  3. @epsilonGreedy I used Roofshield, everyone I've spoken to say its the best you can get. Not saying it is or it isn't, just what I was advised so I rolled with it.
  4. You won't be able to change the online version - at least I havent been able to. I downloaded a desktop excel version, split everything into individual tabs I.e. prelims, foundations, SIP, brickwork, roof......etc then work through each tab in isolation. Link them all to an overarching running cost on the first page which has all the tabs linked so if you amend a cost on a tab somewhere then the running total updates. I split each tab so it also has a 'spent' column next to the projected cost column, that way you can track where overspend have occurred.
  5. That would be useful. I started off thinking about SunAmps when I started but have since decided to walk the well trodden route of UVC/ASHP/UFH. There seem to be a lot of threads on this topic but no 'definitive' schematic. I would have thought there would be a simple ASHP --> UVC & UFH layout out there with all component parts listed but that does not seem to be the case. Surely the setup should be fairly standard regardless of house type, size etc
  6. I used estimators online too - its a good baseline to start from but I have made a lot of changes to my quote to get it to where I think it needs to be. I would recommend downloading the Excel version and then adding/changing etc. anything that requires it. Hopefully you should then reach a point where you have a good cost capture for your build, giving you a target to work to.
  7. Thanks for the response Peter, I will have to digest/think about this later and hopefully it will make sense - plumbing seems to be an area that is pickling my brain! I have no issue with everything to the 'right' of the manifolds etc, its the stuff to the left where hot/cold water is supplied to the manifolds that pickle my head! I'm running with an ASHP to three way diverter supplying a buffer and UVC - its a work in progress. Trying to work through all the threads on this subject in order to cobble them all together as a design, I get the gist of it - once I've put pen to paper to draw something I will post it up in order to check I haven't made any fundamental mistakes!
  8. I am trying to get my head around the whole UVC/ASHP/UFH setup at the minute but before I get into that I have a query about how to splice multiple manifolds together. In my setup I have UFH on both the ground and first floors, heat will be provided via a buffer vessel, so there will be a manifold upstairs and another on the ground floor. I have seen low loss headers mentioned on a few threads but don't understand their application as such. With my setup what would be the ideal way of connecting the manifolds to the buffer? in parallel with each other or via a low loss header? Thanks
  9. when I was cursing myself about what I'd done this was a thought that occurred to to how I should have done it is put a 90 degree bend on the end with a stub poking up out the ground much like your timber example.
  10. I wish I had taken pics, I seem to be doing a poor job of that lately as I keep checking stuff only to find i havent got a pic. The clutch on my car lost a few yrs that day, who knew it would be so hard. The best bit is that pulling it like that cut through my duct chamber like a hot knife through butter which then created an additional repair task for me! By full runs i mean put the whole lot in, pipes and Chambers all connected up. I wish i had done this at the time. I have a manhole on site to connect in to but I didn't lay any of it. I basically put the three downpipes in that go through/under the slab and then brought it out beyond where I thought my slab would be. The problem is that I misjudged where the slab would end and so had next to nothing coming out beyond the slab so I've spent the last couple of days trying to get to make them longer but at the same time not bring the house down by undermining it - not a fun game. I think my mistake happened because the lines I had sprayed on the hardcore at the time represented the outside of the timber frame/concrete slab but there was an additional 350mm on that for the cavity and toebeam which I didn't consider so it messed up where I'd put the pipes. I should have just put a good 2 or 3m on them. Another problem was finding the damn things. I had marked an x on the kore insulation where they were but still struggled to find the things. I've certainly made this far harder than it needed to have been. You can see in the pics how the trench started and how it ended - not good!
  11. just a quick post to share some of my issues which in hindsight are entirely self inflicted, hopefully this will help others not to make the same mistakes. 1. Put your waterpipe in the duct from the outset, soo much easier than pulling it through later. (I did consider it but dismissed it as wasn't sure exactly where my duct was going to come up at the time) - don't be like me! I tried pushing 30 odd metres of mdpe through a 63mm duct, got 25m through then nothing. I dug two holes to find it, ended up having to attach rope to car - not gonna lie, it was a griz and I was hating life. 2. When laying your hardcore sub-base for an insulated slab do the foul drain runs at the same time. I was under time pressure to get ready for concrete so I just left stubs poking out to connect to later - dont do it, I've made life so much harder for myself having to dig through hardcore to do it. 3. If you ignore no.2 and just leave stubs make sure you leave a good length - i didn't! The stubs i left only just poke out from under the slab, god only knows why I did this. I have spent all day yesterday and today digging them out so I can put an extension length on to bring them out to roughly where the ICs will be. Digging through the hardcore really sucks ass. Yesterday wasnt too bad, today was on another level. The trench kept collapsing in on itself and my 600mm trench ended up about 1.5m wide - a very bad day today. Dont be a plonker like me. I've made other rookie errors so far but fairly painless. These have been a right PITA.
  12. @SuperJohnG they will.pretty much give you whatever you want, whenever you want provided it does not exceed 80% of the current value of what you have built. Myself, I drew down a third of what they would lend me (in Jan) initially in order to pay for frame, roof and windows deposit. Once house was up I drew down another 20% ish (in May) to get me through the next load of stuff. I won't need anymore till next year now as I'm plodding through stuff myself now - I've drawn just over 50% now. It is a quick/slick process, just tell them you want to draw down however much, they will get a valuer to confirm current valuation and then money will be transferred straight away. Even during lockdown, it only took a week for us to get the funds and it only took that long as valuation was done via email using photos/receipts of expenditure for big ticket items as evidence. Should only take a few days during normal times. First payment has to be done via solicitor. We drew down the max we could on first installment - 80% based on value of land with services.
  13. ha, still had time to edit it and correct my mistake luckily👍
  14. I get what you mean when explaining the angle - its been laid on wonky🤦‍♂️ You mention that at the eaves there is OSB exposed on one side. Is this an issue, maybe if I envisage it correctly. The membrane should start at the eaves and work up, so that each subsequent layer laps over the one below it. Therefore any water will run from top to bottom over the membrane and not under it. If a corner is exposed how will that now be covered? As the membrane on that bit of exposed OSB should run under the piece of membrane that covers the rest of the roof at eaves level. Does that make sense? So in a nutshell, wonky is not an issue, just poor workmanship and a waste of materials. The important bit is making sure the laps are correct.
  15. I've heard more bad than good about them...a lot more to the point I didnt even bother speaking to them. I heard nothing but good things about Ecology and as it stands they were the only ones I approached. Remarkably easy to deal with, all done via email and a couple of Skype calls. There's a few options out there but for me, I can thoroughly recommend Ecology.