Bramco

Agree but as per my post, in a normal house, why would you wan to monitor individual appliances - it's not going to really tell you a lot, except what's already on the back of the appliance. I found that with one CT on the main feed, I could seen what our base load was, could see the fridges turning on and off at night and also see when the washing machine went on etc. - although of course I knew full well when I'd put the kettle on or the dishwasher on. So actually base load was the only information that helped me to reduce our bills. You can attach it serially or with a cheap esp board via wifi - I have to admit the RF link is the weakest link ;-D You need to be a heck of a lot faster for PV divert and there are diy instructions on the open energy monitor site with sw to accomplish this. I've had one based on Martin's sw running for several years without a hiccup. If you bought a commercial diverter, then you could still have a CT on the PV circuit to monitor generation I thought they'd fixed this? But I don't use an emonPi, only the sw - and to be honest, it hasn't been updated since it was installed - but it works, so I'll only change things if I need to. Yup - but then again, if you've got a functioning interface why change it? Well don't then, it's east enough to redirect it to something more suitable. There was a lot of discussion about SD card wear on their forum a few years ago and the solution they found seems to work as there haven't been any problems related to SD card wear for a few years. The Pi isn't overkill although the emonPi might be - just set up a Pi zero - our system has been running on a Pi zero with a usb drive for ages. We're about to move into our new build and I'll just repurpose all the old hardware, Pi zero, emonTx etc. but rebuild the system with the latest sw. Although I'll probably get rid of the RF interface between the pi and the emonTx - that wasn't the best solution. Btw have you seen the latest developments - more along the lines of iotaWatt - https://community.openenergymonitor.org/t/avr-db-emontx-v4-new-hardware-in-progress/20209 Simon PS I have nothing to do with these guys - just a customer - but found the openness of the hw and sw a great feature - as well as not being in hock to some cloud.

Just out of interest, what underwhelms you about the emonpi? I've run the open energy software on a home baked system for quite a long time and haven't had any issues with it. Of course if you want to monitor individual circuits then you'd need something else - but the Emporia system seems to be a less useful system than emonPi or the emoncms software on your own system with an emonTx. On monitoring individual circuits, I can see the need if you suspect your Ecodan is using a lot when idle but for everything else, read the back of the device and understand what each item you turn on uses. Regularly monitoring your washing machine is like expecting to save energy because you have a display attached to your smart meter - it doesn't. Simon

@laurenco Hi Lauren, no photos I'm afraid. However it did strike me that you should be able to see the detail of the frame from the Site Pack. The Site Pack contains all the details about the structure. If you didn't get this from MBC, you should still be able to get hold of a copy. Below is a snip of one of the structural openings. You can see the build up of 5 studs on each side of the structural opening to take the steel which is there to ensure the 2mm deflection at the centre of the opening. In addition, the windows suppliers normally have a 10mm gap to allow them to actually get the windows in place, so actually there's plenty of tolerance - at least in our case. Simon

@laurenco Hi Lauren, the 2mm deflection is I think more about the centre of the structural opening and was a stipulation from Express doors for the sliding doors iirc. A sag on one side would surely indicate that the side of the opening didn't have enough support? In our case, the steels sit on top of some chunky side supports. If anything is still visible, I'll take a photo tomorrow. No photo tomorrow, means nothing visible. Your design looks much more difficult than ours. Our doors are all sliding doors within a wall, so nothing jutting out. Simon

I looked at the Octopus heat pumps but had the feeling they were intended for retrofit, i.e. high temperature HPs. If you are going for UFH throughout, you only need a low temperature heat pump. These can heat your hot water OK but can't deliver the temperatures needed for radiators. Take a look at the Cool Energy ASHPs -> https://bit.ly/3sfBf6L. We have just had our electric supply connected and have Octopus electric only tariff. Once you are connected and on their tariff you can switch to Octopus GO which gives you 4 hours of 7.5p/kW at night which can run the ASHP, or can be dumped into your hot water tank. Simon PS There's plenty of info on the forum about all of the other questions you've asked as well as some blogs from members that have been through the design process explaining how they made their decisions.

Partel do a tape specifically for these right angles - makes it much easier. We didn't have an issue finding a UK company that didn't charge more. But really important that all windows have no trickle vents.

Think ctrl C ctrl V is stuck...... @ToughButterCup - do you want to give it another try.

Not a mottled grey - we have porcelain mottled grey polished porcelain tiles bought really cheaply from B&Q and they've been great. Don't show any dirt. Found some similar ones for the new build. Simon

On heat recovery...... Although by a weird coincidence Mark will be starting the install of our MVHR tomorrow!! Simon PS Any chance you could edit the post with the correct link? We'd also be interested.

We got ours through planning easily and we're in the Green Belt. Find some examples to reference in the area and write a short planning statement referencing all the 'green' policies in your council's Local Plan and all the 'green' policies in the NPPF. Simon

Thanks for the reminder, I'd forgotten about them. Did you get a regular plumber and electrician to do the install and then get them to do the MCS sign off? Simon

If you want to collect the £5k grant from the Boiler Upgrade Scheme you'll be on a lot longer than 7 years. We're planning to run our system like yours, immersion heaters in the DHW tank and UFH system on Octopus Go at 7.5p/kWh for the four hours overnight and top up when needed. But on reading that the Gov £5k scheme will now cover self builds, I asked around for some quotes for an ASHP installation. It has to be MCS so you get on the renewables ripoff merry-go-round. You provide them all the details, professional heat loss analysis, the fact that the DHW UVC and UFH buffer tank are already installed. They come back with a daft price - latest was £14k for a 7kW Vaillant ASHP that you can buy on the internet for £3.75k..... they'd estimated 72 hours for installation!! Then they say they have to do a full heat loss analysis themselves and an EPC (the government website says specifically that it isn't needed for self build. I managed to get one company down to £8.3k but even then it's a ripoff. Surely installing an ASHP is as labour intensive as installing a gas boiler. Gas Safe is probably more onerous than MCS. And a new gas boiler is about £2k of which say £750 is the boiler. It's madness!!! The double glazing and conservatory salesmen are making hay again... Sorry - rant over. PS If anyone knows an MCS accredited ASHP installer in the east midlands who won't take the p*** I'd love to get their contact details....

Is that there to isolate the metal plate from the back box? I had to replace some metal fronted switches on older wiring with plastic ones for an electrical certificate because the metal fronts couldn't be attached to an earth wire as there wasn't one on the older wiring. The ones on newer circuits were fine. Simon

Builders/window fitters/groundworkers/you can complete the list.... like cake..... If you can't bake, or didn't marry one that can, get round the local cake shop and provide... Simon PS my other half can - thank goodness PPS no tips for delivery folks though.......

'Garden' is a loose term. 'Curtilage' might be a better term to use. We have an acre plot but the actual curtilage is what was highlighted by the red line on the planning application - which is often, especially in cases like ours made smaller than the actual owned land to reduce the cost of any planning application. We'd say our garden though is all the red line plus the land to both the front and back of the plot, which I don't think would wash with the PD section on outbuildings. A neighbour recently had planning refused for a PD development of a garage which was in the obvious place to put it but it fell partly outside the curtilage in the green belt - he reapplied and called it an agricultural shed and the plan was approved. So also take care with the description of what you are intending to do. Simon