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dnb last won the day on December 31 2020

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About dnb

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  • About Me
    Building a SIPS panel house on the Isle of Wight, in the muddiest swamp I could find.
    Just call me Shrek!
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    Isle of Wight

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  1. Best plan yet! Unfortunately yes, otherwise I would take the Range Rover and trailer over. Let me know if you do get over. Haven't added it all up yet, but if it is then 100 + 50 still makes 150 well enough.
  2. Seriously thought about this, but I don't think it works. I need 37 sheets of 150mm thick and 10 sheets of 25mm. That's 1.2m * 2.4m * 0.15m * 38 + 1.2m * 2.4m * 0.025m * 10 = 17m^3 approx. So this would apparently just fit in a large luton van. But the long dimension of any van I can find here is less than 4.8m and both the width and height are less than 2.4, so you can't ever fill it with whole sheets. I therefore need to go for something bigger, like a 7.5 tonner which gets a bit expensive on the ferry. I therefore think the best answer is to go for 75 sheets of 75mm (or whatever combination I can get that adds up to 150mm) so I can use one of the two suppliers I found that seem sensible on delivery and are not too bad on price.
  3. You and I might think that. But tests have shown that the IOW ferry is often a sticking point. It's a small market here, and this is one of the costs of living in, when all said and done, a really pleasant place. Unfortunately not. I didn't plan for both brexit and pandemic when I agreed the foundation design. Had I known how the world would go I would have dug down another 100mm and put in another row of plinth blocks. Then I could have at least 200mm EPS. When I costed it in of 2018 it was better to have PIR. How things change... (But of course if I had done that I would probably want 200mm of PIR, chasing those ever diminishing returns!!)
  4. Thanks for the pointer. I know there are supply problems in pretty much everything. The biggest logistical problem for me is usually getting things across the Solent on a ferry without it costing the earth. One delivery example was free to Southampton, but £250 to site - a sizable additional cost in relation to the materials themselves. Needless to say, all angles need to be considered - houses aren't more expensive over here and I do need to worry about the budget. And thanks all for confirming that there's no hidden gotcha with staggered double layer. It gives a few more workable options. I like the idea of staggered joints and I can make a castleated joint with the upstands at the edge too. One of my local suppliers (specialist in roofing materials) has recently given up on PIR insulation because of the supply issues, but they inform me that their structural timber supply is much better now. Looks like the next job might have to be the stud walls on the 1st floor.
  5. I planned to put 150mm of PIR insulation between the screed and beam and block floor. The snag is that nobody seems to have a sufficient quantity in stock or won't deliver it to my postcode. So my revised plan is 2 layers of thinner PIR to reach the same 150mm thickness. Are there any pitfalls with this other than it costing a little more (but at least I can get it on to site)? I don't believe there are any alternative materials that give sufficient levels of insulation.
  6. A current clamp and multimeter with a data logging port connected to a laptop would do this to reasonable accuracy.
  7. dnb

    Fibre Tape

    It is the same in my industry. People change things so they can be seen to be doing something. It is easier than trying to solve the real problems in many cases.
  8. Take photos when you have all the pipes in. Then there is a point of reference before anyone gets a drill out.
  9. Prompted by @Ralph's thread about amplified TV aerials, and beginning the first fix wiring on my build I am questioning the requirement for antennae and signal distribution in the house. For a bit of context: We will be 6km from a transmitter that supplies national and local DAB, DVB and FM, so even a bent coat hanger in the clear will get a usable signal. Internal aerials might work, but they are only so good when there's lots of graphite and foil insulating the house and a garden full of mature oak trees between them and the transmitter - FM is not so bad, but DAB and DVB do degrade a fair bit in rain. So if I put up antennae, the signal needs distribution to several areas of the house and needs to cover all the bases. It's easy and cheap enough, but needs planning and doing in this stage of the work and if we can get away without then it's a time and cost saver. My plan would be three separate antennae into a 3 input / N output distibution amplifier with a 1GHz cutoff filter built in since it looks to be cheaper and better than messing with a combined (compromised) amplified single antenna into a single input distribution unit, at least in terms of RF performance. The asthetics of multiple antennae are of course less good. But at least all of the antennae can be small - high gain and narrow beamwidths aren't really required here. We will have tolerable broadband and there is a good chance of it getting better in the next couple of years, but I can't see fibre to the house happening for a long time because of ANOB, private road and isolated community type reasons. (The house is approximately 400m from the nearest fibre cabinet.) I can see running 2 VPNs for us each working from home using all the available bandwidth leaving nothing for a radio stream. Not that I work from home much - I can't exactly bring my work toys home, and I wouldn't enjoy the electric bill for them! We aren't watching that much TV these days - too busy working on the house - and much of what we do watch is from on demand services. But this will hopefully change when we are less busy and we all like to listen to the radio while working at home. 10 years from now, the decision would probably be easy. There might be a date set for switching off broadcast TV and FM radio. But currently it's looking fairly open ended. We don't intend to sell the house for at least 20 years, but plans do change. So on balance, I believe receiving broadcast signals is still a requirement for the house, although this will drop away as time goes on, but would like to canvas opinions.
  10. If you have a bad signal then an amplifier won't help. It will amplify the noise just as much as the signal and you end up no better off.. In these situations a high gain yagi aimed correctly is the better option. But they look nasty in a lit of situations. It sounds like you are not in this situation though so a simple dipole antenna might work well enough.
  11. I had a planning condition to install bat boxes on my property. So I discussed their requirements and agreed to put three suitable boxes on a south facing tree. I sent numerous invitations to the bats, but they didn't move in for a while. But one evening last autumn I saw a bat inspect one of the boxes. So far, so good. Now I find that some very noisy neighbours have moved in next to the bat, and he's complaining about nuiscence hammering all day. Someone shoud really write to the greater spotted woodpeckers in question about the noise and damage... They aren't getting the security deposit back, that's for certain. Better make some more bat boxes before the council complain about contition number 6 no longer being met.
  12. Way back when I was at uni, 5A round pin plugs and sockets on the lighting circuit were used for this purpose. Not sure if this is still the way to do it.
  13. I found that too when compared to mounting panels on rails.
  14. I asked my BCO about lap. We discussed the local area weather and how sheltered the site was and settled on a number. I selected 600x300 slates because it meant fewer battens and fewer slates to nail so was cost neutral over the 500x250 slates. The roof is big enough to look right with larger slates.
  15. I am getting ready to buy in the cabling to have electricity in the house. The plan (as discussed in an earlier thread) is to leave the meter box at the site boundary until the garage is completed and run SWA (from a switched fuse that will replace the existing site consumer unit) to the house. This will be approximately 20m distance. Looking things up in the blue book, it looks like I need 25mm^2 SWA if I want a 100A feed to the house on the assumption that approximately 15% safety margin is sufficient. The voltage drop looks to be insignificant compared to the requirement at this distance at full load. The other alternative is 35mm^2 but this feels like overkill and it probably has the same bend radius as my Range Rover's turning circle! Thanks.