dnb

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dnb last won the day on October 13

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About dnb

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  • About Me
    Building a SIPS panel house on the Isle of Wight, in the muddiest swamp I could find.
    Just call me Shrek!
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    Isle of Wight

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  1. The useful tools are all Erbauer EXT or mains. So no bare nail gun option. Never really got the hang of that one. It's why I still have a TVR, a Lotus and a Jaguar. I haven't checked, but do the newer ones use a bit of propane in the gas to lower the vapor temperature in the newer ones? It's not been properly cold yet so not had a problem with the IM360. And I have lived down south long enough now to be soft southerner, so I don't like to work in the cold!! Coffee works for me. It's not the first time this has been mentioned. I wasn't expecting to find something so quickly. I am sure we can come to an arrangement in the very near future 😄 .
  2. I have a need for another nail gun to put on my cladding and do some internal fitting too when the time comes. I will need to install 50 or 63mm stainless brads for the cladding job, and may need smaller nails for some of the internal fitting. I can't see me needing to fire anything less than 30mm. An angled gun may prove more flexible for getting in to tight spaces so this would be a preference but not a hard requirement. I have a Paslode IM360 first fix gun (bought as an ex-demo for a good price ) and it's been worth its weight in gold on the build so I am drawn to Paslode for the 2nd fix. But as good as they appear to be, they are expensive - what else would anyone recomend? I do have a suitable air compressor but am concerned that the hose will be a nuiscence on the scaffolding so perhaps an air nailer is not a good plan. Thanks!
  3. To avoid repeating myself, the reasons behind the wooden cladding are here. It comes down to local politics in the end. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/16990-cladding-shrinkage-and-allowances/
  4. @Mr Punter I did write a reply earlier in the day, but my phone ate it while I made coffee at work. The short version is that my site is in an ANOB and next door to an SSSI. Planning have enough plausible things (and a few less plausible things as well) to say that will tie up any discussion/appeal etc for a considerable time, and whether I ultimately win or loose, it hurts my timescales, budget and risk management on the build for a number of logistical reasons - quite a lot more than the cost of me putting up cheap cladding for a couple of years while I pursue the fibre cement I really want in slightly slower time. There's a some local politics too that I would rather not discuss on a public forum.
  5. I wouldn't consider that particularly expensive unless 10 litres didn't cover much.
  6. I may have mentioned a few times that Planning people here get some funny ideas about the world. This led to my need to paint 250 sqm of cladding in a light colour over which they have final approval. (This is all so the house looks in keeping with the bungalow we demolished.) I have looked at Weathershield and it will be expensive and take a huge amount of time. I have looked at various Bedec paints and they advise weathering the timber for a few months and I don't want to have to put up more scaffolding later. I am not sure if the weathering is really necessary but I haven't got an answer from them yet. Are there any other suppliers out there that can provide something that is at least quick and good? (Expensive is something i am learning to live with!!) What paint would you use?
  7. I am going through the drawings for this with my BCO at the moment on my SIPs based build. The document linked by @Temp will be very useful.
  8. I found that Brazillian grey-green slates were a fair bit cheaper than Spanish in the size I was looking for. They are thicker with a more pronounced edge so may not give the look you are wanting, but they were ideal for my build. Mine were sourced through a local roofing supply company because of local transport issues. There are some slate pictures on my latest blog entry.
  9. I would really like cedar but for it seeming a waste when it gets painted! (And the cost of course)
  10. The Planners demand I use real timber cladding on my build. And also insist on it being horizontal, lapped somehow (shiplap, feather edge, t&g are all fine) and painted a defined colour. (Natural wood colour is not allowed) They will in no way entertain fibre cement at this time. I am not prepared to argue because I am very unlikely to get anywhere based on previous examples. So I am now looking at wooden cladding and am getting concerned about shrinkage especially on the south side in summer. My preference is for the look of a shiplap or bevel type interlocking scheme and these don't seem to have much overlap. One of my thoughts was to use a cheap tanalised redwood knowing that within 10 years I would replace it with fibre cement because it isn't Planning's problem then. But it needs to look right until then. The other thought would be to go for a more expensive wood and have it last until after I retire and have downsized in the 30 year time frame. Does anyone have any feeling for shrinkage rates and longevity of painted cladding?
  11. Thanks. I can't take the credit for the roof on my own. I couldn't have got this far without SWMBO and my daughter grading and sorting slates, and Jeff and Aimiee putting a lot up when I had to be at work or was occupied by nailing up battening.
  12. Progress has been made intemittently between the various storms. The guttering is getting a thorough testing some days. My friend Jeff has returned to site for a week so we have a chance of getting ahead in the inevitable race against the bad winter weather. Some jobs just go better with more people on site... Like moving hundreds of slates around! The 15 metre long north roof very close to completion. Just the top row left to go, and we'll do this from the other side. It's going to meet the fundimental requirements of keeping the water out and staying attached to the house in storms and I think it looks pretty good. But I would arrange a couple of things a bit differently if I had another roof this size to do. Lessons learned for the garage! When all said and done, it's natural slate so there will be imperfections and differing sizes. (I am noticing similar issues on other natural slate roofs the more I look now!) The trick would appear to be to manage them in the grading process so the right slates can get to the wielder of the hammer at the right time - I think a few trapezium shape slates slipped through and we didn't mix the crates thoroughly enough, and errors inevitably accumulate on such a large length of roof. Small sections are much easier! A lot less distance for errors to catch you out. We just need to remember to attach the top valley section properly before putting more slates on! This turned up on Friday along with another pallet of parts, a lot earlier than expected. (It's virtually unheard of to get deliveries ahead of schedule here and I'm really pleased because it gave me a weekend to deal with the contents.) I now have 6.6kW of solar panels, some GSE integration trays and several piles of electrical parts stashed in the shed. I made up a couple of gauge blocks to set up the battens for the GSC trays. This is the first test before trying to get them to the right height on the roof. It's a lot easier when the whole of the battening assembly moves as one piece. I talked the whole GSE battening thing through with my very helpful BCO and he's comfortable with me doubling up graded 50mm slate battens to suit the GSE spec. I also plan to alternate fixings into the pairs of battens so that loading is shared as evenly as possible. The tray is sitting a little low here. This is when I started to question the measurements in the GSE document - I found that GSE have updated their documentation since I downloaded the first battening plan, and the measurements are all different between the two versions because they take the reference from the other edge of what they term the "reference batten". It took me 2 hours of swearing and cursing before I noticed this. And when I used the latest document measurements, it all works out! The first three trays balanced in place with a lot of G clamps. It seemed a good idea to go down to the eaves with the panels - it creates enough room for the 5th row on the top and allows it to have a meaningful few rows of slates at the top. Otherwise I loose 1.2kW of panel or have to cut nearly every slate top and bottom. The instructions were clear that it is possible to install the trays this way, but were a bit light on exactly how the bottom flashing works on a vented roof. Got to have something to work out in the week in between puzzling through the hard maths problems at work.
  13. I believe mine were someting like £1.10 from Jewson earlier in the year. Couldn't find anything significantly less than £1 per block and "importing" them would have been more expensive due to shipping costs. There is a lot of building going on here. Every other house seems to have trades of some kind working on it.
  14. I have actually enjoyed doing the battening and slating. I have not done all of it myself because getting water tight quickly is more important than saving every penny now the weather is beginning to be against us.
  15. I have started to look at planning cable runs etc for the new house mainly so I can make sure all the services interfere with each other as little as possible. I've not done any wiring for a while (getting old!) so I looked at the new book and I noted a new rule saying that the wiring can't collapse prematurely if it is on fire. Here are two scenarios to aid my understanding: 1. On the assumption that the cables are not "collapsing prematurely" when attached to large pieces of the house that are collapsing, is it still acceptable to run a new cable through holes in the neutral axis of a joist without additional support (providing all the other regs are satisfied, naturally)? 2. Conversely, if I counterbatten to provide a service void between the joists and plasterboard I should use some metal clips to support the cables on the sides of the counterbattens or joists in case the plasterboard fails for some reason, e.g covered in water from the melted plastic water pipe. Or can I rely on plasterboard to not "collapse prematurely", so I don't need to bother? ( I don't really like this but I can't really explain why)