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I went for white cement, silver sand and white chip wet dash. Gives a bright white finish without painting and far cheaper than k-rend or similar.

It would pi$$ me off big time, if a close neighbour, standing on their raised deck could see over a 6' fence and likewise I could see them. Sorry, maybe that's just me.

Sink on . Water feed to taps leak . Olive fittings against Hep2o . I’ll take then off tomorrow and ptfe the threads . Waste in . Tiger seal ( hence the lovely black mess ) to compression fittings . I prefer it this way .

See the bit at the very top that goes over the ridge and (in this case) is nailed down. It "laps" over the bit underneath it. Wind driven rain can get up that joint:

I am not sure about number 4. This is extra compulsory stuff for the sake of it. House fires happen so infrequently these days, and fatalities even less. And try getting one that works of mains pressure, the local waterboard will not guarantee that there will be enough flow when it is needed. There should be one set of rules, with one interpretation only, for the whole country. That would make life simple for everyone. 'Local Plans' are a nonsense. The only locals that contribute are the ones that have an interest.

Yes it is, goes to show that airtightness and good insulation is all that is needed. I think an MVHR extract up there is a good idea as that can scavenge a bit of warms when the sun is just right, but also control humidity, which is the important thing. Joe90 also has a good loft ladder, that helps.

@Adsibob WAY better to ask than wish you’d asked.

Now done all 11 (3 had remote sensors so not affected), recalibrated them and I now have much more stable temperature control, so very pleased with the result. As previously said, I measured the temperate of the top slot probing into the back. 29 degrees! Have sent a new design to Heatmiser. Given the large cost of tooling, I wouldn't expect them to jump on it though. Of course the slots would be on three sides, I just showed them how it could be disguised.

Well we are on the way now and no going back. The groundworks guy started last week, he is putting in the road and hardstanding and will do the insulated foundation under my guidance and I will assist. It's a good relationship and he comes when its not raining and is well experienced in groundworks. He is actually building his own home just now too (we are similar ages). The night before he came on site...I was hurriedly arranging site insurance (horrific cost of over £2k - but it is for 24 months) that was sorted, then in the dark I went up and attached the cursory health and safety signs at the entrance. I also put a sign facing out into the surrounding fields (see pic below) as we have people who walk by and I haven't heras fenced the site hence if someone crosses the fence they should be aware there might be big holes in the ground. The digger came the next morning and we have nearly finished the access going in to the house, around 400 Tonne of 3" crusher run has got us up to the house location. Which is pretty damn close to what I calculated, we were put off my rain somewhat this week which suited us both as I was stowed with my normal job, I did have holidays booked but couldnt get off as I had too much on. However come Monday..I will be off for a week.... I 've been busy at night over thinking, over engineering and done far too much detailed planning around drainage and ducts. But I'm nearly ready. The Kore Insulated foundation system came in December....I can tell you how glad I was that i brought it in before Brexit. I'm hearing stories that it is completely problematic now. I was missing some EPS for a thermal break between man slab and integral garage but steven from Kore sorted it and should be here next week just in time. I'm spending my night tonight comparing prices of drainage which I'll bring on site on Tuesday. The groundworkers will be back Monday and we expect a big week full speed ahead, we will scrape the foundation out (the footprint top soil is removed) get it level, then fill with Type 1. Then surveyor here on Wednesday to set out profile boards with, I done all the ACAD drawings for him to place it all and do the ducts and drains and insulated foundation corners etc, He's also been really helpful and proactive. The final UFH design is done, I'll order the pipe on Wednesday too and they can get it next day, so that's fine. Next week is a big week and I'm excited...I've planned some bits to death, but in reality we will just see how it goes. Some pictures attached because that's what a blog is all about Jude was thoroughly enjoying the water and mud!....wish us luck! 20210115_154740.mp4

Hi folks, Has anyone got any experience of mini piling, (150mm diameter, steel cased bottom driven type) and the typical quantity used for a given area? I know this is a very general question and it may depend on ground conditions, but, having contacted a number of different contractors, and having provided them with the exact same information, I am confused as to how they seem to suggest such differing solutions for the job in hand. It's a single story extension, approx 6.3 metres by 3.5 metres, and will be your normal brick and block construction.

Ok, cool. So not really something to worry about if a spare extract is not available! our unit is going in the plant room in the basement (assuming we can afford a basement that is!)

That's a cost+ option I’ve not gone with. this is what I will be following

Doesn't sound like an enjoyable experience. The building regs drawings for my job should be sorted over the next week, so what lay ahead for me re: dealing with any council reps remains to be seen. I'm hoping it'll be straightforward, but we'll see. I'd be curious to know how all the varying methods of piling would be viewed. I've had astronomical quotes for what appears fairly simplistic to apparently reasonable quotes for what seems to be overkill. Its baffled me tbf

Absolutely agree with @joe90 on this one. Even if regs don’t apply, this is an example where regs are really quite sensible. If you don’t have three equal steps, it will be a trip hazard for any guests that aren’t familiar with your unusual steps. You don’t want to have to remind everyone who visits every time they go up and down those steps that there is unequal one. Unless this is into a space that your guests would never go, eg a utility or private dungeon.

Oh, nasty. Have you looked into piling methods, or just decided on screw piles for the speed by which they are done? I have a few difficulties in my plot, so am somewhat limited to methods. Some of the price variations I've received have been astonishing.

Is your use of piling only required for your summer house Ian?

Hi - we operate a 3 bed detached house - 165sq m in total - and our water and heating is run on electricity only - no gas. Not sure how helpful it is, but my annual usage last year from February 2020 to date - so nearly a full year was / is around 7000KWH - our latest bill shows an average daily usage of 19.5kwh - So for completeness, we did have our adult son staying with us for that full period, so there was three of us at home throughout. None of us working. Obviously the cost of that usage will vary depending upon which tariff you are on but for us, our total annual energy usage came to about £950

I have 14 individual zones, so very controllable. We run at 22 to 23 degrees during the day and set back to 21 overnight. Like you, I find UFH not very responsive but then again mine is cast into the fully insulated floor slab, so 155 tons of concrete heat store and generally the pipes are in the middle of 150mm thick slab. So I guess it can't be that responsive. We rarely lose more than 1 degree overnight (22:00 to 07:00),so guess its not going to make a huge difference.

Mitsubishi Lossnay 35 running an enthalpy heat exchanger over the past couple of weeks and this is the output (courtesy of the Shelly monitoring) Sits between 51-58% humidity

Deep mid winter here, snowing hard. Next week the average temperature might just creep above 0 for the first time this year.

if there's one thing I've learnt in my brief self-build journey so far it's that things always take longer than you expect/want them too! that includes quotes.

See page 9.. https://www.ukpowernetworks.co.uk/internet/asset/3b7f1ee6-1fc8-461a-a5d5-a4909a64895B/UKPowerNetworks_Site+Information+Pack_V2Dec2017_FINAL.pdf Local suppliers normally know what's needed. Tell them its for a new supply/connection so needs to be DNO approved not a DIY garden shed project.

Kinky, need you ask?

Different insureds. E.g. all mortgages require the mortgagor (i.e. the borrower) to insure the mortgaged property adequately. I would be in breach of my mortgage contract if I didn't notify my insurer that I was having building work done and amend the policy accordingly. That is very different to the situation when I need to make sure the builder is insured; i.e. say he's negligent - there is not much point suing him (actually it, as the contractor is a private limited company) unless it is adequately insured. Otherwise I'm relying on the asset position of the limited company the builder is operating through, and most small to medium builders don't have a significant asset position. Also, I'm fairly sure that my buildings policy won't cover the situation where one of the builder's employees has an accident during the building work. Whereas one of the builder's two policies does cover that.

Blower door test done this morning. Waiting for calculated results, but the fact that the fan needed four of the eight plugs refitted to the range plate apparently means we're pretty good.

There is only so much you can do to vet someone when we don’t ask people for personal details.

You could terminate under the eaves and fit an external AAV.

My take with this would be pull out each nail one by one using my ancient slide hammer nail puller, and put screws down the nail hole. Almost guaranteed not hitting pipes or cables as you are using the same nail hole.

wall you removed is just a stud partition, wouldn't have provided structural support but may have taken some flex out of the joists if they are running in opposite direction

must be hitting something solid ...steel shim or a nail etc.

I quite like sand / cement / lime. Either leave plain (if you don't have exposed render beads) or paint. Applied by a top plasterer it will last over 60 years.

Most of the silicone renders are good Monocouche at £15 per bag. Is pricier than K Rend

Dehumidifier?

Good plan to use some heat to dry it out.

Not got a spare tile? I have not found the Magic Man type repairs very good for tiles. Can you replace it? I like the grout colour in this bathroom.

If I were your neighbour I would complain to the Council as they no longer have enjoyment of their garden without overlooking. That looks a lot more than 600mm. Looking at the brick courses and that you have five risers that looks more like 900mm high. Did you discuss with your neighbours, or just go ahead?

There have been several Class Q conversions around here. The farmers nearly always play the game and end up with a nearly new building. They never remove everything in one go, so I would put everything back that you possibly can as it was. This shows a conversion that ended up with a slate roof and white plastic windows, nothing like the drawings.

That’s exactly what I did as I did not want the cold bridge from the uninsulated timber.

I like those Ferd. I would consider taking planning decisions away from L.A.s . In my opinion the quality is poor, and the local planning committee are "not in my back yard" The other thing that i have a problem with is "Making new buildings fit in with the local venacular." That is my pet hate. Lets all build new stuff, that looks like old stuff. Lets never move our architectural style forward. Lets instead have roads of houses where in 25years, you won't be able to tell which one's in the road were built when.....because they all look the bloody same.

Hi @Moggaman, my whole loft is fir storage only and has no “ridge storage” like your drawing, yes all my insulation (350mm) is between I beams in the actual structure and works very well. @SteamyTea recently posted that the loft was very stable temperature wise (he left some data recording gubbins up there).

Yes - that's what I'd do, I think that looks smart, gives it a little more interest as well.

You can see the support works are not yet finished (another hole started), the UB`s are not new and pretty much an ideal length - They have done this before

It always makes me ?‍♂️ when you see third builds saying it’s an eco house and the first thing they do is pour hundreds of tons of concrete. It looked nice on the inside but the outside looked a bit bunker like, and I couldn’t live with the house at 15-16 degrees!

feeling very sorry for the wife.

For the splay detail it's worth making sure your tile battens don't have to span too far so a nogging can take the bounce out. Also, if you are up on the roof giving the window a deep clean say then you don't want to damage the flashing if you step too near. For wider windows then the nogging has to be increased in size. This is a part detail but this mono pitch roof has timber sarking boards, counter batten, batten and breathable membrane. The fillet at ceiling level gives you a wider target for fixing the insulated plaster board at the bottom of the splay and you can maintain the minimum edge distance for the plasterboard fixings.

I would go for a sealed/polished concrete floor (or tiled) and leave the ICF blocks alone. It would create a lot of waste and the finish on the EPS would be.... uneven to say the least. Plus you'd have issues with dusting, fitting furniture in etc. As I understand it, the MVHR won't remove heat as such, but if you place the intake on the north face the summer bypass mode will help. A low u-value will help prevent overheating if you prevent a warm air getting in and solar gain. (Worst comes to worst you could fit an air conditioning system running on PV) So a brise soleil or awnings are probably your best bet - personally I'd go for a fixed brise soleil if it suits the building, because you know you will need to shade and you're not preventing any winter sun by the sound of it. Also, openable rooflights will allow for a lot of ventilation.

Oh man, even after obtaining planning permission, and before starting the build, this is a stressful job isn’t it planning and organising everything that’s needed to build a small house, there is so much too do. However I have had lots of success over the last few weeks, 1, turned a £1900 clean water supply into £900 2. Submitted the building regulations application 3. obtained a building over a sewer permission, when the guidelines say that you can’t build a new dwelling over a sewer 4. applied for a new sewer connection 5. Received the news that my CIL self build exemption isn’t at risk ( which caused major stress ! ) 6. received my SAP rating which I’m pleased with as it’s A94 it’s going well now and still loud to do, next is proceed within the structural warranty and order the timber frame. Oh and get a mortgage! Start on site in a few months and I can’t wait. J

Sorry to hear of your problems. The interpretation of Class Q seems to vary across the country so I would reckon the best bet would be to speak directly to the planning officer and perhaps arrange a site visit with them. I would also remove your neighbour from your Christmas card list.

Not used it but a few reviews mention sealing felt seams: https://www.screwfix.com/p/geocel-trade-mate-roofers-seal-black-310ml/32561?

Yes I get that. I know it's a tough one. One suggested 7 piles at 4 metres and another 12 piles at 6 metres. Both suggest 150mm steel cased driven piles. Of course, for any additional depth, there's a charge, which is to be expected. I'm a bit confused as to the variation in number of piles used though.