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SuperJohnG last won the day on April 24

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  1. Wooooft. Job well done. That's pretty fecking tight.
  2. Timber prices mor dramatically dropping in the states which is good news
  3. Thats what mine says and was I was thinking of doing. But just a pain as it'll sit further out than the wall finish which is not ideal. @Nick Laslett defo fold down the way so it allows water to run down regardless. Then affix a render board above the edge of your DPM. You'll have the same issue as me though likely with that sticking further out than wall finish.
  4. So do I. I've a bucket load of renderboard to buy and the price is just not pretty. 🤣
  5. For sure. Prices will hit their terminal points where people just will stop buying whatever the item is - production will continue and then as the demand drops off prices will start to trend downwards again till it reaches a sensible level. The new normal might well be slightly higher than before (it might even drop lower as there will be excess with extra production going on just now). It's just the time it will take to do that. But main people who buy wholesale like the Builders merchants and commercial homebuilders are already shutting sites and refusing to buy at the current prices so for timber/ concrete etc (which I believe is the highest demand right now) this shoudl be us at or near the peak in my opinion. It was the same for mutli finish and plaster last year. Now go in B&Q and it stacked pallets and pallets high and not an issue I believe. There will be other items that it moves onto not quite sure what they are yet but it'll calm down.
  6. There are various topics covering this question but I need a slightly different answer as most of these have the DPM inside the EPS systems whereas as mine wraps up the front and meets with the DPC. Here is an image of the build up: I seem to have two issues, which I'll deal with separately: 1) What to cover the EPS upstand with and importantly how best to attach it 2) Wall build up to reach past the Upstand. EPS Upstand: There are a good few threads on what others have done from Cement board to Ubiflex and UPVC. But they all seemed to have only the DPM folded over so seemed easier. I have a DPC from the top and the DPM from the bottom- which I have joined together (seemed to make sense) but I could cut it back. I suppose it doesn't really matter what I choose to put here but I was wondering the best way to attach it. If it is cement board should I screw through the board right into the concrete? for Ubiflex or UPVC - just try and cut back and use EPS compatible adhesive of some kind? Wall build up: I have planned a ventilated cavity with render board I'd think I need to get out past the EPS upstand so when water runs down the wall it drops past the edge to the ground. However I have just noticed that the drg the engineer has used above, has the correct 50mm thick batten (50 x 75mm to mount renderbaord) but rather than use a 12.5mm render board he has shown a 30mm thick board, which isn't correct. Hence if I do this build up it won't be as far out to clear the EPS. The actual upstand is 60mm thick, hence with a 50mm Gap and 12.5mm board (not sure of render build up depth - it'll be thin coat silicone render) I barely squeeze past the upstand but definitely clear the cladding for the EPS upstand. What's the best way to do this? I could build out the battens, but it feels like they are really big already at 50mm thick? should I add an L shaped trim to top of upstand (Like others have in aluminium) so any water drops on that then runs off? is it ok for this to sit further out than the wall finish? it feels like it shouldn't. I I've attached a picture of what it currently looks like. I've also cross referenced existing threads for anyone else in the future.
  7. I've just managed to get 2700mof BS5534 25 x 50mm battens for 80p/m - double Decembers price. However most others now selling at £1.10 and the guy just told me they have just been offered them wholesale at £1.40 (thats them buying for the their 20 off branches.). It's gone mad for sure - but there is still honest trade suppliers out there with stock. It'll be short lived and 2-4 months be back more reasonable. It's just rubbish if you need it now.
  8. Now its 2021 and time for me to revive this thread....same problem. Need a fire door to go from garage to utility but needs to be air tight and good options available? Scottish regs require a good bit of cross ventilation in garage (which makes me question the need for an insualyed garage door but that's a separate issue). So air tight door or standard FD30/60 with some seals added?
  9. It's a complete pisser. Albeit I havent purchased mine yet...simply as protek still aren't selling them 6 months on. I refuse to pay sbz the extra cash.
  10. You'd never maintain heat with an ASHP it just doesn't heat it fast enough. This is why you need more storage, 210l sounds too small to me as you store at a lower temp. You either need to store water at higher temp which means you'll lose the COP on the ASHP and it'll costs more or possibly a bigger tank.
  11. Yes planners. I woukd just call and ask what needs to be di e to consider that the development has commenced. Planners aren't that scary in my experience.
  12. I had a letter which was 25 years old which stated 'the development had commenced' that seemed to do the the trick when I bought my plot. I could have continued on no hassles. Added: in order originally for that letter yo have ben written the previous owner agreed with them when would be considered as commencing. In our plot it was planting the trees on the periphery,.making the access and pouring a few linear metres of founds.
  13. I filled some minor gaps in lining paper with caulk a few years back...despite 5-6 coats of paint it's glaringly obvious it's there as it seems to stay shiny that bit. Haunts me each day. 😂
  14. Use the search function and you'll get lots of results. For a guide to the heating design process But most on here have used Wundatrade to provide design and supply. If you wanted to draw yourself. Loopcad does a free trial.