BMcN

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About BMcN

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  1. I'll have a look at ebay @ProDave Will the 22mm caberfloor be airtight? I will just run the VCL across the ceiling, down and taped to the floor. Its just what I do with the floor.
  2. What tape would you recommend? I see the tescon recommended and was intending on using it around windows etc, but it is quite expensive to do every joint. Something like this? https://www.permagard.co.uk/radbar-single-sided-foil-vcl-tape @Declan52 I can VCL as shown on your green which will make the ceiling, eaves and uprights airtight. My concern is the floor/ceiling of the garage, as the VCL needs to be on top of the insulation in the bottom chord. What about using painting the 22mm caberfloor with airtight paint and then taping the VCL onto this?
  3. Anyone able to offer any advice for above the garage?
  4. Anyone else able to offer any advice? Thanks
  5. Thanks @LA3222. Yeah that rings a bell from when I was researching previously. By placing the VCL on the underside of the garage joists, wouldn't this place it on the cold side?
  6. Anyone able to offer any advice on this? Thanks
  7. I am looking into how I will be applying the VCL once the kit it up. I have a few questions if anyone can offer some help. From the floor up (solid slab), my plan was to join the VCL to the DPM for the slab. On the top of the ground floor kit, I had planned to run a length of VCL right around, then place the joists on top, bringing the VCL around and back under the second storey kit - this sound correct? The VCL will then be run across the upstairs ceilings to create the envelope. I will be using Protect Barriair VCL with integrated tape. Is this sufficient? I have seen butyl tape recommended however it is very expensive. Lastly, for now, To the rear of the house we have an integrated garage with attic trusses. The room above will be part of the living space upstairs. What is the best way to include this in the airtight envelope? If the VCL is to insulation side, this would mean either putting it down before the 22mm caberfloor, in which case is would get damaged. Or placing on top of the caberfloor, again where is would be damaged. I have attached screenshots of floor plans to show this area. Thanks in advance.
  8. Thanks guys, I will go with that plan then, leaving the kit short of the opening and returning the block. The kit is not done yet, will be starting to make it up on site in the next few weeks. @Dreadnaught I already made that mistake. The slab is poured and didnt include a slope where the door will shut. I will try and remedy when the external ramp up is poured.
  9. Looking for a bit of advice on the best way to fit a garage door to our house. We will have an integrated garage on the house, this will be part of the timber kit. I am wondering how best to install the door. The house will be a 150mm timber kit, 50mm cavity and then 100mm block/brick skin. There are three main methods I believe,. Face fitted inside is the nicest as you see no runners & keep the full height and width. My query with this is how you then finish it outside and ensure the weatherproofing of the kit? Inbetween fitting is the next option, presumably inbetween the blockwork. This would presumably lose a little width to the runners and then quote a lot of head height as the roller box would be at the top. I guess there is then a flashing of sorts over the roller. Lastly is the external face fitting, I dont think this one is viable for us. How did everyone else do it? Is it an option to finish the kit 100mm short and return the external blockwork back in and render up to the door, using the internal face mount option? Attached are a snip from the floorplan and elevation.
  10. Thanks, so where you have cladding you have no blockwork behind it?
  11. @Thedreamer Looks great, very tidy. Do you have any of the detailing for the junction between the render and the cladding? Are the cladding parts not done with block at all? Thanks
  12. I'd have to check with my architect to see if this is allowed. Other open I considered would be to render it all then have the cladding on top, so it would be purely for aesthetics.
  13. Just to clarify, you mean battens at 75mm for the slate, but how is your render 100mm depth?
  14. Render will be wet dash or possibly a k-rend or similar, so I'd expect 20mm depth. @Mr Punter the render will be directly onto the block work so cant adjust its finished depth really. I'm in Scotland makie and the slates are direct to the sparking boards for the roof, but it's ventilated from underneath, this wouldn't work on the walls.
  15. Thanks @vivienz it was your blog I saw them and liked them. Do you have any trims in mind that you mentioned @makie ? Looked at the Marley trims for the cladding and the provide a starter trim, but this isnt very high so I don't see how it would work butting up to the render when the slates require battens and counter battens. Would provide quite a depth difference.