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About BMcN

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  1. As shown here, the ASHP isnt connected to immersion and is using the cylinder stat. So keep this way and let the iBoost do both immersions? (and a timed boost for bug killing duties).
  2. I did read that in the manual, use the upper as HRT1 and lower as HRT2 and yes I think it was 15min. The manual does show the ASHP going through the separate stat, I have attached the wiring config I am going for (not including the iBoost). The supplied stat looks pretty generic like this. So you would have the ASHP to upper, setting the limit on the immersion itself (around 50 degrees?). iBoost to the lower stat, setting the limit on the immersion (but to say 70degrees?). Then have the stat wired as separate safety device to stop all DHW heating?
  3. Just started wiring in my ASHP and cylinder. The ASHP came with a boost kit for the immersion but I would like to do away with that and use my iBoost. Now the tank has a middle and a lower immersion and has a stat placed in the middle of these. The stat has a control and a limit set of contacts. My question is what is the best way to wire this? Obviously the ASHP uses the two stat settings in series. My thinking was to use the upper limit through a relay for the iboost on the lower immersion? Any clarification would be good. Thanks
  4. What did you use instead? These are what BPC supplies witg my MVHR and I'm in the process of installing.
  5. Thanks, did you go for the cut an X out of opening and patch in corners or did you cut a section approx the size of the reveal?
  6. Yeah that isnt cheap stuff! I was lightly scoring the backing paper and taking some off so I could put it on split. I have had another idea, how about if I get some 150mm wide tape and don't bother extending the VCL paper into the reveals at all, I just tape the whole thing?
  7. Had my system delivered from BPC yesterday. Cheapest by a decent margin.
  8. Evening, started doing the VCL and I am looking for some tips on the best way to do the windows. Method one I tried was to cut a piece the same size as each reveal, then tape it to the frame, then cut the wall VCL to the opening size and join the two with tape. Method two was to cut corners at 45degrees and flap in, then try and tape to the window frame. This is pretty tricky with the tape. Method three that I was thinking to try is to first tape the window frame to the PIR insulation on the reveals, then I can be less precise with cutting the VCL at 45 and tape it to the first tape. VCL is Protect Barriair and tape it Tescon Vana.
  9. Forget it, as long as you get what you need for the forum...
  10. As @Declan52 describes, timber midway down the studs to stop them twisting like this. PIR will hopefully do the same job but not normal not to have some.
  11. There is also this option from Manthorpe however it isnt the sleekest design.
  12. Looking for suggestions for a loft hatch. Ideally want something quite airtight with a half decent level of insulation. Been looking at the airtight Jupiter Blue range which seem to fit the bill but they are tiny. Saw previous suggestions for the Keylite all in one solution but it doesnt seem that well insulated nor airtight. Anyone come up with any better solutions that would allow a larger opening? Happy to have separate ladder set.
  13. I'd leave it. Even if you just levelled with sand and no cement once the boards are on top it will be fine.
  14. That will be a layer or laitance, caused by excess water or over floating normally. No I wouldnt bother, as long as its roughly flat so the boards done rock around. On my sub floor it was quite uneven so before laying the insulation I put down between 5-40mm of a sand cement screed so I had the correct depth on top for my flowing screed. Far cheaper than maybe for 2 or 3 extra cubic meters of screed.