Leaderboard

No the only requirement is not to overload the cable. In this case the radial circuit is fed from a 16A MCB so no problem just extending it in 2.5mm cable. You could wire an entire radial circuit fed from a 32A MCB as long as you used 4mm or 6mm cable,

In the context of motors, I much prefer the term "Variable Speed Drive" or VSD. It is unambiguous and clearly describes the function, to operate a motor at different speeds.

Was expecting a nightmare after reading horror stories of people asking for a 100 Amp service and getting a bill for 15-20k etc. So I was pretty anxious about the upcoming request. Started to go through the online application, and its really thorough, and very confusing. Spoke to some friends who were electrcians and I was worried about asking for the wrong thing. I just put the least amount of info as I could, request a single phase 23KVA connection and also checked the box for the planner meeting. I should not have worried, Wetsern Power planning was fantastic. Called me same day from the local office to arrange a meeting at my site. Met the guy next day to discuss what I wanted. Talked through my nice to have vs must have's. The guy was really understanding, and helped guide me to choosing a 3x60A 3ph supply. Also informed me that, assuming I had the roof space (I don't) I can install 3x G98 approved solar installations (1x per phase) and he reccomended I try and get 3phase equipment where I can to spread the load. It also means that I can pre-wire the house for multiple 22KW car chargers (one outside, and one in the garage). I received the quote later that same day, £1400 to install the line (they dig up everything, I am fortunate to be living on a road with the cable under the pavement in front fo my plot. I have to supply the fence posts for the temporary box and then get the meter installed by my distributor of choice. Fantastic service. I know they get some stick(and rightly so) for the DNO's but I was so impressed. Pretty much 48hrs from submitting the request online, to having my on site meeting and receiving the quote. When I accept the quote they officially have 90x days to perform the work, but I am targetting July for my utitilites install, and they said that was fine. Happy days! Still a long way to go, but I'm grateful.

minidigger with stone rake?

think they're all electronic? Pressing it latches a relay in most likely.

We had a quote for a Panasonic ASHP with two hot water tanks, 1 for the master bedroom, kitchen, cloak room, laundry room, utility, the other for 2 further ensuites and the master bathroom.

Fair point , we have a team on some site at least twice a month and often weekly so they come with big saws and core rigs because there is ALWAYS opens missing.

Ahem, don’t forget Chartered Architectural Technologists ?

Wedi is a little difficult in execution, so I'd recommend a GRP former if you're planning on tiling the 'tray'? Diamond or Impey dependant of drain finish / type, and size of area. Also with Wedi, you cannot go for a mosaic less than 50mmx50mm as the tray material / construction suffers from point compression failures. Eg stiletto on a 25mmx25mm piece of mosaic = down she goes.

Only if you own the road. A communication pipe is a grey area - also depends on who fitted the meter and the isolator. Communication pipes carry water between the water mains and the boundary of private property. If a company stop-tap has been fitted, this will normally mark the end of pipework that is the responsibility of the company and pipework that is the responsibility of the property owner. Not all properties will have their own stop-tap in the footpath but where one has been fitted, this is normally the responsibility of the company to maintain. Explains it all ... had dealings with them, they are not the easiest.

Where is the meter and the stop valve ..?? And does your iron main serve more than you ..? If so it could be the responsibility of the water company to repair it - 8l/min is very low and I would also suspect it may be leaking in the near future if it’s a 60 year old steel pipe.

@Nickfromwales is your man, he will be along shortly.........

I think PeterW was right.. they seem -just- ok/ by a gnats I'm ok in/out the old door ok. So just to cut the b'stards, & clean them all up.

Do what our neighbour did and hire what I assume was cheap immigrant labour to do it by hand!

If you don't want to have a full sized tractor on there, find a landscaping company with a Stoneburier and a compact tractor. Blecavator make a range of sizes and are the well known brand. They create a fine tilth and push the stones down, and give a nice flat finish. It would only be a couple of hours work. Edited to add: Looks like they can be hired too https://www.fthhiregroup.co.uk/hire-products/landscaping-and-groundscare/groundcare-equipment/blecavator-stoneburier-attachment as an example.

You can buy or hire powered rotating sieves: https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-rs350-automatic-rotary-soil-sieve/3213k I hemmed and hawed about this (we have sandy soil with lots of pebbles) and curse the day I ultimately decided it was too much effort. Just last week I was pulling dandelions out of the lawn, and two thirds of the time I had to contend with stones in the way. Edited to add: just saw 1500m2 - that's a LOT of area to process. Any reason not to get the farmer's tractor involved?

just to put this to bed for now, rang the surveyor earlier and he confirmed that the letter is only a fishing expedition. They're only interested in surveying completed properties and so has flagged us for a recall in 6 months or so.

? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262548478444?hash=item3d211bd9ec:g:LPUAAOSwaB5XmMv8

@Carrerahill The McAlpine DC1 is your friend here .. only 42mm socket but you can cut down to ground. Used one for a replacement stack when someone went a bit heavy with the SDS... https://mcalpineplumbing.com/plastic-chrome-fittings/drain-connectors-boss-connectors-roof-flashing/dc1-bl-boc-drain-connector-boss

The engineer dictates the EPS compressive strength depending on the loads imposed from above. I've seen aluminium sheeting (as used for gutter forming) used and I have used ubiflex artificial lead flashing to dress the EPS before the rain screen (in this case render on cement board) is applied on timber battens. You can also render directly to EPS, we did that on a below ground section of the basement that opens to a stairwell / mezzanine.

No, it has a very specific meaning in electrical engineering - it's a device which converts DC into AC and that's exactly what happens in both PV and heat pump installations. And you don't run your tea or your partner though an inverter.

Ummm... the component which turns AC into DC is called a rectifier. The component which turns it back into AC is called an inverter. The key benefit of this is that it enables you to change fixed-frequency AC (50Hz) into variable frequency AC matched to the running speed you want from your compressor.

I said I would update on what happened regarding the access road. It seemed to get any further response from the Planning Officer dealing with the pre-planning application was to do another pre-app and pay a further £360 fee. I did not want to start incurring costs for plans etc without clarity on the width of the road so phoned the Architectural Technician to ask whether I should phone Highways myself. Although he is too busy to take on my plans he kindly phoned the chap in Highways and asked him to ring me today (it is impossible to get through to anyone at the Local Authority - they won't give out phone numbers or email addresses). Anyway the Highways Engineer phoned today and although he did not deal with our pre-app enquiry, he confirmed it was a standard reply and that if we are only replacing a dwelling then the existing access is OK. I shall make a note of this conversation for future reference but at least we can now consider getting formal plans done. My next query is re the Heritage Statement which I shall post separately.

The EPS used for basement construction is just like that used for raft foundations - typically 200-300 grade which is extremely dense and not the more flimsy material that's used in floor insulation. The whole system is designed by a structural engineer and so is fit for purpose. In my case, I have a 300mm layer of EPS 200 that supports the weight of a 120m2 basement with 300mm thick walls and a 2 storey timber frame house ontop of that. The corner shapes etc are only required if you want the EPS to act as shuttering also, in my case I just laid a flat slab of EPS 200 blocks, covered with a membrane and let the groundworkers cast their slab upon it as normal. EPS70 was applied to the exterior walls when the basement casting was complete.

For the benefit of anyone who doesn't know why it's called an inverter controlled ASHP... An inverter takes the AC mains electricity and transforms it to DC (by inverting half the polarised AC electricity to a constant DC). DC motors (i.e. the compressor, fan and pumps) can be controlled variably, which is why they can be scaled to match demand. AC motors can't do that.

The build element I think I would leave to the professionals, but excavating I will undertake. Its on a hill side so I'm digging a bank out, as opposed to digging down, and have 2 acres adjoining for the spoils to go on. Hopefully concrete and steel prices have reduced when I get around to it. This is what I'm hoping - fingers crossed.

Any low temp systems needs to run a "legionella" cycle every 14 days to lift the temp to 60°

This Legionella ting is really only a thing if you have private (not mains) water, and the hot water is stored in a vented tank. Treated mains water and an unvented of water tank and there really is no risk. In any event this reg does not stop you storing very hot water, it just requires the fitting of a thermal mixing valve to blend the very hot water with some cold water to deliver the correct temperature to the tank.

Almost exactly what ours cost, it's pretty unbeatable value especially as the planners rarely take it into consideration.

so if it would work I’m happy to get it posted to me and cut it down to say 50mm over size and post on ..??

If it's either/or then this is exactly the right decision. The insulation will last many decades, not be obsoleted by new technology, and would have been significantly more expensive to retrofit than do as you build. While I'm really happy with our ASHP, I couldn't promise any of these points about it. In 10 years I expect they'll be more efficient and cheaper

Most of them were returned for a refund or thrown in the bin shortly after purchase and use. No need for a poker for this job, just tap the mould with a hammer etc. The top return and drip groove strip will cause air to be trapped at the top, drill a series of holes around the top flange to allow the mix to reach the soffit of the mould.

I've mine set at 50 degrees which is plenty hot enough! With the RHI grant I think you're mad not to go for ASHP but each to their own. What I would definitely recommend is design all emitters (UFH + rads) to run at a low flow temperature, so that you can just plonk in a ASHP in future. Of course, if you run a gas boiler at 50 degrees you get the full benefit of the condenser so will use less gas now. People who run their condensing gas boilers at 65+ degrees lose any efficiency advantage and just wasted money on condensing unit.

Well you say that, but all your questions are the more detailed information over and above load/span tables which a structural engineer will help you with. If building control ask for calculations of the fixings you have used, what will you tell them? Buildhub 'said it would be OK'?

I think this is an important point with ASHP's: Roughly the higher the temperature your asking the unit to produce inside your home, above the outside temperature, the lower the CoP. The lower the CoP the less efficient and the more costly to run. Hence the bigger the emitters, the lower the water temperature needs to be to bring the temp to the desired amount, the more efficient. A larger lower temperature hot water tank the more efficient the ASHP works, the less energy it uses, the less cost to run. Who said size wasn't important?

Something like this? Various colours 1.8m long.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Door-Bars-Threshold-Strip-Transition-Trim-Laminate-Tiles-47-MM-X180-CM/254764646839 Narrower.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200-CM-Door-Bars-Threshold-Strip-Transition-Trim-Laminate-Tiles-VARIOUS-SIZES/272129082558?item=272129082558&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&pageci=5aa2cf47-bfcc-46db-9925-e16551a2cd7f&redirect=mobile Search for Aluminium Threshold Strip Transition

Hello there, I’m joining in the hopes of getting some guidance on building a garden annex/workshop using sips. Nice to see a big Scottish contingent here!

I've been doing ours. Have had success with using cement covered EPS panels - e.g. https://www.wickes.co.uk/STS-Professional-Tile-Backer-Board-1200-x-600-x-10mm/p/101131?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp101131&sc_intid=101131&gclid=CjwKCAjwhYOFBhBkEiwASF3KGcxP17L0HyFemITNRpCmxbXYJw2LAyzE5dHU4DwsrW68PoWuimnRjhoCb6UQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Currently at £9 from wickes per 1200x600 board which is reasonable I think? Found a pre-made niche on Ebay, but would have been happy cutting the above board (cuts easily with a utility knife) then gluing it with Sikaflex EBT (which is fast becoming my new best friend, particularly when it goes down to £5 a tube) and then putting waterproofing/tanking tape - e.g. this https://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/Orbry-Waterproofing-Tape?gclid=CjwKCAjwhYOFBhBkEiwASF3KGR6ONX4n2EYwVVpVoHCRbAM4OT3jhc5VB6AXYvdbeS4mgflMjk52hhoC5VcQAvD_BwE over the gaps and joints. Then using a good waterproof tile adhesive before tiling. Most of mine is onto a stud wall, and had fixed PB to the wall before putting the cement facing boards on top as I just wasn't quite convinced about rigidity of the board. With the tiles, grout, tile adhesive, tanking tape, waterproof board I reckon it should do a pretty good job keeping the water back. Completely DIY so I have no doubt there's a better way but have tried this approach now in two bathrooms and seems to work well Good luck with yours!

Firstly accumulate as much money as possible, while still enjoying life that is. Some building technology changes slowly, some very quickly so keep abreast but don't obsess on one method over another just yet. I think your challenge will be to design a property that serves your needs in retirement. Uncomfortable as it is to consider, you need to think about future mobility, health and independence - a property that can adapt as you age and can be reconfigured will be invaluable. I think the suggestion to think about locations is good, do you know where you want to spend your future years? We bought the plot we developed 10 years ago (2011) and it took a couple of years to get planning and then another couple to get the finances in order and be in a position to start mid 2015. Actual build took a year and then landscaping etc another couple after that. I'd say we were finished the major works in 2018.

It's to far down the road. Look at sites but I wouldn't stress to much about anything else. Building regulations, styles, environmental requirements, materials, etc will all have changed a massive amount not to mention any personal or financial circumstances. In 7-8 years I'd review and start getting a bit more serious. Just enjoy life until then.

Thats bang on correct.

That feels like enough time but in some aspects it is a 'long time'. For example tastes change and you cannot judge yesterdays tastes (as they will be in 15 years time) by today's standard - but people do and you don't want your dearest friends leaving your brand new pad being driven, by their self drive car, away and saying to each other - 'Lovely house but oh so very 2021'. Lifestyles change similarly. Yesterday and perhaps today the fashion was/is for open plan. The pandemic has taught many that having just one open space where in the 1930's there would have been three isolated spaces is a severe restriction if two of you are working from home. You may argue that as you have retired you won't be working from home but you will still have your pastimes and if those are indoor a space for them might turn out to be valuable, my other half's sewing machine would be one such device I would not want in the open plan space - but we haven't specifically built her sewing room in the new house as she has only taken it up since the pandemic (in fact - and don't tell her, I put a special power supply into the garden room to allow her to have have a kiln for her pottery work if she kept up her passion for it, looks like sewing has taken over.) So perhaps spend time looking for 'timeless' ideas and don't get hooked up on today's technologies as so many of them are already in the laggard phase and there will be a whole new crop along by then.

Remove and replace with Heras fencing tomorrow. Job done if it’s more than 1m from the highway as from memory that’s the legal distance.

Investigate the build concept : Fabric First Decide on your Risk Appetite. Take holidays in houses of different types Choose the right partner. Spend many hours reading BuildHub.

Travel more around the UK to help you decide where you would be most happy to build. Shift your holiday focus to holiday rentals to sample more properties to pick up ideas. Visit other self builders to hear their war stories first hand. Go to the big NEC self build show once a year and book into the seminars. Learn Epsilon's first law of SelfBuild "Build the house that you will need for the next 20 years of your life and not the house you dreamed about 5 years ago.", basically this means don't fall into the the downsizer's upsizing trap.

Nothing wrong in planning ahead. I put in outline planning when I was 22 and moved in last year when I was 33. I wanted a goal of being sub £500 for all costs connected to living in the self build. Our site has great views, but required a bit work to make it a useable house site. I spent most of 11-12 years trying to achieve this in the most cost effective manner. I did not want any uncertainty when we were ready to roll with the build.

Hi and welcome, I retired to self build mine ( I was a small time builder before) and still I learnt soo much from this forum and its members. Finding the plot is the hardest thing which can take forever (I married into mine ?) I think you have to decide what you want which can take an age, size, rooms, facilities, orientation etc. I changed my mind several times but had a rough design in my head for a few years anyway. The mantra on the forum is not location location location it’s insulate insulate insulate. You only buy it once but buy fuel forever. Read a few blogs, don’t be afraid to ask questions here, you will get feet on the ground good advise not sales pitch. Best of luck ?

Stuck some of those felt lap vents in and after a very windy day recently it all seemed to dry out. Will keep an eye on it and check if it comes back when the frosty weather comes back, but so far so good! Thanks

Yep . I learned nothing there aswell

So thank you everybody for that thrilling journey of thought. I guess the answer is no, the energy used varies with demand.