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About Marvin

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    Regular Member

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  • About Me
    Broad experience in construction and still learning. Refurbished own bungalow in 2018 still tinkering.
  • Location
    Isle of Wight

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  1. I thought it was 3 times the thickness of the sheet as a rule, but this may have changed now...
  2. My light weight compactor will handle type 1 ok, but not bits 100mm by 200mm as in your photo. M
  3. If the surface is to be left exposed then the areas of fines will wear away easily. Like driving on a beach. The mix is important. In Ministry of Transport type 1 fill the different grades are blended at source for maximum when compacted. This material is known as subbase.
  4. I understood to make a good surface the crushed concrete should be mixed fines, small and large items. The maximum size of the crushed concrete should be no more than half the thickness of the layer to be compacted and the fines should fill all the voids when compacted avoiding the fines in the ground below rising up to fill the voids causing the area to sink. I usually compact the filling until no more fines will go in. the fines hold the larger pieces from moving. Good luck. M
  5. As far as I understand - yes. M
  6. I understand these heights are set so when you sit in a wheel chair you can reach the sockets/switches and consumer unit.... in case you get old and frail and don't want to spend 6k a month for a care home because you can't turn a light on.
  7. Well I know little, but first suggest that if you do go ahead with the insulating without BC about, make sure you take plenty of photos which clearly show both the work being done and that it's your building. Secondly in my experience I think that you have to have at least 25mm insulation between the joists and the plasterboard to achieve BC requirements. When the joists are insulated in between and the plasterboard fixed directly on to the bottom of the joists to form the ceiling, this can cause cold lines on the ceiling where the timber is which can cause condensation to collect and leave marks. And as Faz says still need to achieve the U value. So I don't see a way around it. Best of luck Marvin
  8. I'm with Nickfromwales. Board suitable for fixings, coverd with fire board. I also insulated the walls to reduce the excessive heat escaping.
  9. So no other soil pipe air venting on your property in the design. Its possible that the Architect is just being cautious. May have been a problem before on another job. During high winds here I have witnessed strong airflow out of soil stacks... M
  10. Could be the Architect is just being cautious. Any chance of a quick call to ask the Architect Tomorrow? Maybe a retrofit? Sorry I don't know how difficult that would be with your roof design. M.
  11. Hi Conor As we know an AAV let's air in and a vented soil stack let's air in and out. It may be that the Architect feels there is the possibility of air pressure building up enough in the soil pipes to cause some of the water traps to fail expelling smells into the building. This possibility requires consideration of the pipework in the building as well as all the way down to the first vented soil stack which could be several houses away. So I wouldn't just slap an AAV in without checking. It may also be a smaller pipe will do the job.... Then again a possible retrofit if you have a problem? Best of luck Conor Marvin
  12. Is that tin foil or an inflamable alternative?
  13. Is the wall an external one or a party wall one?
  14. 🤔 If you use the same scale rule on your build surely the result would actually be a smaller property.