DevilDamo

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About DevilDamo

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    Chartered Architectural Technologist
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    Surrey, UK

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  1. To give you a little more depth in the porch, the wall between the Porch and Hall does not need to be a cavity wall. You could therefore loose approx. 200mm from the porch side of that wall and have it just as an internal block wall. This is assuming the door between the Porch and Hall would be an internal and not external type/quality door.
  2. Not knowing where you’re located, I’d ask your architect to check and make sure the W.C. complies with AD M as it looks too tight for me. As you come up the stairs to the Landing, why is the stud wall to the Master Bedroom shown on the line of the return handrail and not the stair string like the other side? Doesn’t appear to serve any real purpose apart from having a small void down to the floor below and a very slightly wider ‘openness’ feel to the stair. As the doors to the front Bedrooms have been pulled down and glass balustrading introduced, this could then do away with that gap.
  3. The angle of the stairs cannot be anymore than 42 degrees though hence why I wasn’t sure why you asked the question? The W.C. pan is positioned on the stair side so not sure how much noise you’d expect to hear through a W.C. door and block partitions unless somebody shouting when they have run out of toilet roll is what you’re referring to? 🤪
  4. Your best bet (which has kind of already been mentioned) is to instruct a technician/technologist/architect to put your ideas into reality because once the regulations have been implemented, that will transform your design and put things into perspective.
  5. Generally speaking, the layout works well. You could increase the width (and depth) of the W.C. by pushing into the Utility slightly, say another 300mm as the Utility would still be a decent size. You could pull the doors to the front Bedrooms down to (for example) the line of the wardrobe to Bedroom 3 and still utilise glass balustrading where those partitions are no more. If you wanted to make the staircase look and feel more grand, you could have an 1800mm wide opening at the top, which would also increase the width of the Master En-suite. This would obviously slightly reduce the width of the Bedrooms on the right hand side including their wardrobe space. Not entirely sure on the questioning or reasoning behind @puntloos comments though, irrespective if the floor to ceiling heights were 2.4m and the max. angle of the stair being 42 degrees!?! The W.C. concern is a new one to me as well because aren’t the majority of new build W.C’s located within the Hall that is near or opposite to a Living/Lounge area?
  6. So are you basically asking whether there’s any cost saving in upgrading as opposed to a new build?
  7. Ok. I have an office in Surrey and have contacts for both engineers and contractors but of which would work with me. I’d normally initiate the process and get them onboard as and when required.
  8. It could be an option but would have to review it in more detail to see if that would be a suitable alternative. There’d obviously be no point going down the cranked steel route if the ceilings have to come down. It’s probably more for an engineer to look into in conjunction with a builder. Perhaps you could mention it to your contacts? Are you actually in Surrey or was that the first ‘cranked frame’ link you found?
  9. Ok it makes a little more sense. The roof over the large window may have the skeilings but the front projecting part with the smaller window doesn’t have a skeiling does it? Are you only looking to convert the main roof or the front part as well? There may be an option in adopting cranked steels and supporting your new floor off that. But that also comes with its practical and cost implications.
  10. Yes, more or less. Fire doors to all rooms that provide the protected staircase, mains linked with battery back up smoke detectors to Halls and Landings and a heat detector to the Kitchen area.
  11. I’m still a little confused. Do your first floor rooms have skeilings along their external walls? Ceiling joists would normally connect at the rafter feet and therefore stopping the roof from spreading. Are you saying the ceiling joists do not connect and are actually positioned lower than rafter feet?
  12. Correct. Three-storey houses would need to meet the BR’s in terms of structure, fire and thermal so a decision would need to be made sooner rather than later because with it being a new build, you’d make those provisions now. Any loft/second floor that provides any habitable accommodation would need to meet those requirements.
  13. What are your floor to ceiling heights? Why is the roof to the single storey rear element so high up? Is it to do with ceiling heights hence my comment above? There may be a slight access/design issue with the door between the Landing and Bedroom 3 assuming the front projected part is still to have the lower eaves? The line of the wall between the Landing and Bedroom 3 doesn’t appear to be shown correctly. The Landing side of that wall lines through with the internal face of the front wall to Bedroom 2 but does not line through with the internal face of the front wall to Bedroom 5. If you’re going to use the loft as storage, then you can do what you like to access it. The roof could also be designed with a slightly simpler structure. If however you’re going to use the loft for anything else that resembles a habitable area, it will need to meet BR’s in terms of structure, fire and thermal. If you are going to use the loft as habitable, you’d normally look at having four Bedroom’s on the first floor and a fifth/Games room on the top floor. Who has designed this house because in another post, you mentioned your wife is the architect or were you referring to that as her making the decisions and having the final say?
  14. I was referring to the front Bedroom (within the projecting part). The plan attached a couple of posts up noted this as Bedroom 4 but your latest extract shows Bedroom 4 in the top left. What’s the latest plan for the front part of the house, in particular the first floor?
  15. To save costs in having to push back the retaining wall or have the new rear wall of the extension act as part retaining, how about extending to within 900mm of the retaining wall, which will maintain a path around?