Dudda

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  1. Dudda

    Measuring up for replacement windows

    Get a data sheet for each quote. The range of 3G is massive. You can get 3G that's so poor a good 2G is better. When comparing make sure you compare the u-value for the window and not the glass. A lot of sales people give you the u-value of the glass only as it's a lot better than the full window (frame and glass) to make their product look better. If in doubt ask us to help compare them.
  2. Dudda

    Measuring up for replacement windows

    I'd combine the above advice and chip a tiny bit of plaster off like what @Onoff did and then measure and check multiple times and get someone with you. The reason I'd chip off a bit of plaster is you'll find some of the windows only have a 3-4mm thin plaster layer while others can have 30-40mm. At least that's what I found on my 1970's house when replacing the glazing.
  3. Do they've a window or do you've a window planned? You can get around privacy with frosted glass like a bathroom window but a big issue is fire. Windows are called unprotected areas in an elevation and the percentage of glazing relates to the distance. I don't know the numbers off but check Part B of the fire regs.
  4. Dudda

    Internorm

    Just to note as I've now put Internorm windows in a few projects and want to say that Internorm don't make aluminium trims and don't install windows. The way it works is you've the company Internorm in Austria who make the windows. They don't install windows or deal with clients or builders. They barely deal with architects like myself and only through an online portal you can ask questions and get drawings and data. You have window installers or dealers who can order Internorm windows which Internorm then make in Austria and deliver to the the location requested. The window installer or dealer then installs the window. If the window is measured wrong by the installer it's not Internorms fault. If the installer or dealer orders the wrong item it's not Internorms fault. All glass is put into the frames in the factory except very large pieces due to weight restrictions. If these glass units are installed back to front, etc in the frame on site it's the installers fault not internorms. Internorm don't make aluminium trims or cills. These are usually made by the window installer or they get someone to make them on their behalf. This is why I always get a sample window trim made as it's usually made locally and they don't come from Austria. Now what you can find is an Internorm 1st window partner. This is a window installer who Internorm has worked with and approved. Very few of these exist but are worth looking out for and are usually better than a dealer. You're constantly blaming Internorm and the windows but from reading this thread all the issues are with the window installer with possibly the exception of a dropped glazing bar however I expect this occurred during transport or installation. Internorm won' t say sorry as they never talk to clients. It's the window installer or dealer who you talk to and deal with who needs to apologise. I want to clarify this as I've to deal with the Internorm installers and fix problems. I double check all the window installer measurements and sign off on them before allowing them to be sent to Internorm and try and fix most problems at this stage where most issues occur and can take the longest to fix if new windows need to be ordered. With all windows 99% of the window issues I come across are with the installers and not the windows themselves.
  5. Dudda

    Insulating the service void

    No. Plasterboards are also screwed. Timber to timber is fine generally with nails except going through an airtight layer.
  6. Dudda

    Insulating the service void

    If you can you always screw through an airtight layer as over time screws move and the holes get bigger with expansion and contraction. You don't get that with screws.
  7. Dudda

    Insulating the service void

    Just one concern I have on smaller service voids. If you have timber frame, then PIR (say 50mm) and then only 25x45mm battens you'll need fairly big screws (100mm or so) to fit the battens through the insulation to the solid timber frame. Then you'll have a lot of small plasterboard screws into the battens. You're making Swiss cheese of a thin batten that will split in areas. Might have to use 25x 60 or 75mm battens to avoid this especially if you are double slabbing, using heavier pink or the acoustic blue board or green boards in wet areas.
  8. I know with Jeremy's slab (not sure of yours) was a structural concrete slab which the timber frame was built off. This is one is completely different as it's just a finishing sand and cement screed on top of a block and beam structure. It's put in after the timber frame is up. See the detail showing internal load bearning walls above. It could probably be a liquid screed with the fiber mesh reinforcement but the SE would need to confirm that.
  9. Then you need to insulate the floor of the garage. Leaving 150mm will only allow the same 75mm of insulation in the floor later. Yes you have to have it ventilated. The silicone render your using doesn't allow air or moisture to pass through it. If you put insulation in that void the timber frame won't be able to dry out and you'll have serious issues. The alternative is to fit wood fibre insulation and a breathable render. As both of these allow moisture to pass through you should be ok but it's a much more expensive option to just increasing the insulation you have internally. The UFH will easily fit in the 75mm sand and cement screed so that's not an issue. As others have mentioned the insulated B&B floor is a good idea to overcome your floor problem of losing heat.
  10. I don’t know where to start as I don’t know what your budget is, the timeframe or what’s your relationship with your architect and or builder. The drawings show your house is built to minimum regulations. For example it’s showing 75mm of insulation in the floor. That might just allow you to get sign off and pass regulations but it’s not near enough in my mind especially for UFH. You’ve a big concrete lintel under the door for another example. That’s a huge cold bridge. Easy to fix but will cost more. This could be all you can afford though. The architect might be taking this into account and know space is more important to you than lower running costs. You need to discuss this with your architect BEFORE you sit down with the contractor as he’ll start seeing money signs everywhere. Talk to them about levels of insulation, airtightness, what the contractor has signed up for (eg does it state in the contract the builder has to reach a certain level of airtightness) what are the running costs and savings to be made long term, etc. Your paying them for a service and you need them to explain in detail to you the insulation they’re putting in and how much more it would cost to increase this.
  11. It’s not just physical training. It’s also mental training like when you wake up Saturday morning after a long week at work and it’s snowing outside. The last few months have left you knackered and you’ve to go to a freezing site to keep pushing on to make it watertight with all day Sunday still facing you as well. edit: and on your own!
  12. Dudda

    Waste Removal

    So much harder with refurb projects when you're gutting a house. I used 13 skips and will need another two next year I reckon. Digging out the existing floor for a new insulated polished concrete floor took about 3 rubble ones. Ripping out the old stud walls, old blockwork, all the old plasterboard, sanitary, old kitchen, rotten timbers and floors. I recycled the old radiators, pipwork and other metal, sold the fireplace surround and a few teak doors but everything else was waste. I found it hard to sell anything worth keeping. Some timber had woodworm so couldn't risk re-using any. It was burned in a bonfire. Crazy amount of waste. Neighbours thought we were digging an underground tunnel with all the skips and waste coming out of the house.
  13. One of Google's Project X moonshots, Malta, uses an idea similar to SunAmps to store heat energy which can be then used to generate power. It takes excess PV or wind energy and converts to heat storage. This stored heat energy is then converted back to electricity when required. As Google is behind this and it has a lot of funding it could really help develop the heat battery storage market. I know they're concentrating on large scale at high and low temperatures but the research and development will help with smaller domestic scale uses. https://venturebeat.com/2018/12/19/alphabets-x-lab-spins-out-molten-salt-energy-storage-project-malta-as-an-independent-company/ https://x.company/projects/malta/
  14. Dudda

    Sunamp container bulging

    Just finished reading all 12 pages. Very tired now. Thanks for all the testing and updates on increasing to 50% and then the on/off for a week. Very useful. Are you worried at all about any damage to the controller or PCM or anything else turning it on and off (essentially resetting it) every day?
  15. Dudda

    Water/drainage layout

    While it's good to keep things like this in mind a floor plan should be designed around natural light, functions, space, flow, views, acoustics, etc. Residential services can be made work to almost any layout. I've seen factories and data centers designed around machinery and service runs. The result was never quality architecture or design.