Dudda

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About Dudda

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  1. Dudda

    Lighting

    This light cost about £27,000.00 for the original http://www.lindseyadelman.com/bb0939#1 I purchased a reproduction for about $130.00 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Designer-chandeliers-in-the-Nordic-idea-branches-pendent-lamp-glass-ball-lamp-droplight-of-post-modern/32692080299.html Sorry it's a poor quality photo attached but I really like the light and very happy with my aliexpress purchase. I'd have no problem recommending this website and you may find a reproduction of the light you're wife wants for a fraction of the cost.
  2. Dudda

    Willis Heater in an unvented system

    Still have my UFH wills heater on a timer and want to change it to the thermostat. The plugin relay, solid state relay, microcontroller pin, logic level control, etc. replies are a bit above my knowledge. What am I telling the electrician to install and if possible a shopping list of parts if I’ve to order online in advance?
  3. Sorry where's the link to @JSHarris simple hack? Sunamp are working on a SunampOS Qontroller which is “a system controller with advanced Demand-Side Management, app-based system configuration, remote diagnostics, stage of charge indication and other monitoring functions.“ You should contact SunAmp and find out how near this is to release or what stage and get clarification on what exactly the SunampOS will do. Report back as a lot of others (including myself) would be interested in this.
  4. Ideally anything going through an airtight layer is screwed and they won't loosen over time. In your case if the battens were screwed to the structure through the OSB that would be better.
  5. Are they fitted yet? Best to seal them all around before fitting to avoid cupping and warping particularly for big or deep window boards. That goes for whatever method you choose. If you go varnish you can always white gloss in a year or two.
  6. Dudda

    Shaped Insulation for a flat roof

    Tapered insulation is more expensive for such a small amount. It's fine on a large area but not worth it for such a small quantity. Multiple ways to fix this. Was the original MVHR for rigid ducts with branches? That's not necessary. Use radial semi rigid ducts and you can still use whatever heat recovery unit you want. You can use 75mm Outer diameter which has 68mm internal diameter (I think) or you can use 96mm outer diameter which has 75mm internal diameter. The 96mm is better for longer routes. Both these will fit very comfortably in the 125mm space you have. The drawing shows the parapet capping as flat. It will either slope in or out a few degrees. If you slope it out with a nice 30 degree pitch you'll gain another 50mm height in the parapet on the inside while it stays the same outside. Build the whole parapet up - nobody will notice and I don't think I'd worry about this. Build the parapet in timber. It doesn't need to be a block parapet and building it in timber will give you more room to insulate. Option one is by far the easiest and a potential saving on everything if you do the semi rigid radial ducts yourself which is very easy to do.
  7. Dudda

    Rockwool EWI ?

    You're probably getting a guarantee with your timber frame (presuming it's design, supply and erect). While it might be possible to ventilate a timber frame through rockwool/wood fibre and a breathable render would this void the timber frame guarantee? They may demand a ventilated cavity in small print someplace. In addition what happens if someone paints the house with a non breathable or acrylic based paint? I'd talk to the timber frame company and see what they'll approve unless you can convince your architect to take design responsibility and then use his insurance if it goes wrong.
  8. Dudda

    Decent Wet Wall?

    Venetian plaster? Its a waterproof plaster with marble dust mixed in which allows various colours. It's very tough and easy to clean. No joints, grout, plastic cover strips, etc. Looks sharp but not the cheapest option.
  9. In Ireland during the ceitic tiger we had a lot of poor quality built houses which are informing a lot of new regulations. You can get a factory certified 15mm plasterboard slab to perform. Its of a high quality produced in a controlled environment. If it's 12.5mm plasterboard and 3mm skim applied on site then who's going to certify that? How can you verify with certainty that it's 3mm and not 1mm everywhere? How can you be sure it was mixed correctly, the water wasn't contaminated or that the plasterboard surface was clean and dry before it was plastered? Yes you can get good plasterers and I'm sure yours were but we all know a lot of cowboy plasterers are around. Remember your house was a self build one off. In a large estate with 100 timber frame houses it's hard to oversee everything. It's all about quality and accountability.... or in reality who you can sue if something goes wrong.
  10. That build up would not now be allowed in Ireland. Just to clarify. Insulated plasterboard slabs (where insulation is fixed to the back of plasterboard in a factory) are not allowed anywhere in timber frame houses. The plasterboard has to be 15mm (12.5mm isn't good enough) and has to continue around all reveals. It has to be mechanically fixed and it doesn't matter what the insulation is. You can see in fig 2 it's wool (which is natural and non flammable) and fig 3 it's PIR which is flammable. These are new guidelines. In Ireland we don't have building inspectors like the UK and the architect has to sign off on the project. I've signed off on several houses in the past with only 12.5mm plasterboard in timber frame houses but won't with these new guidelines.
  11. Dudda

    Plasterboard What Thickness

    If it's timber frame you really should be using 15mm and have to by law in Ireland. See attached guidance note recently issued to all architects in Ireland in relation to fire safety in timber frame houses. BCMS Information Note 1-2018 Guidance on Timber Frame Walls.pdf edit to clarify: published by the Building Standards, Department of Housing, Planning and Local Government in Ireland. Not relevant to building regulations in the UK but it would be good practice to follow the best guidelines in relation to fire.
  12. If your using the fibreglass insulation batts to keep the building breathable then you'll have to get special plasters or lime and everything else will have to be breathable. If you put a cement based render on the house that won't be breathable and all the effort to make the rest of the wall breathable will have been in vain. While timber frames are breathable, modern blockwork houses generally aren't breathable the way traditional stone buildings were.
  13. Dudda

    Sunamp installation

    Mine is sitting at the bottom of the stairs for just over a week now. Good to read how you installed and where you put FCU, DP isolator, etc as I'm about to start the same as soon as it gets to where it's supposed to be.
  14. Dudda

    UFH system lots of help required

    You've a few questions which ask more questions. First with the 100mm cavity that's only half filled you could look to fill the remaining 50mm with beads. This would be cheaper, easier and a lot less disruptive than drylining internally. Secondly what's the outside of the house like? Would you consider external insulation? You can then go 100 or 150mm insulation, it will reduce cold bridges, reduce internal condensation risk, give a new fresh look to the house and not reduce internal floor areas. You can continue to live in a house when external insulation is added. On the ground floor you plan on using a screed and 120mm of insulation. Is this on top of the existing concrete slab? What's there currently as adding this additional height will reduce your floor to ceiling height and potentially change all the door thresholds. Are the doors and windows high enough to accommodate this? On upper levels screed generally works better than spreader plates but it's heavier. The temperature is more controlled and slowly released with screed. You've to make sure the existing floor can support the weight of the screed. If you've only 50mm insulation in the cavity and go the internal insulation route with 50mm you'll probably need heating in the attic as you'll have a fairly high heat loss. It's not a super insulated house where the heat rises into the attic. If you fill the cavity and externally insulation with another 100 or more and have good airtightness you can look at not heating the attic.
  15. Dudda

    New series of Grand Designs

    On top of the deck would be the vapour layer, then PIR, then the membrane.