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About Dudda

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  1. Just adding another Wunda self install user here. Would also recommend it after 2 years. If you have MVHR zones won't work as well. Not saying it won't work just not as well. If you have MVHR and looking to save a few bob then reduce the number of zones. IF the house is very well insulated and airtight (as it should be) then in theory the whole house should be fairly warm and cheap to heat. Having just the one large zone or one per floor will therefore allow the heat pump, boiler or whatever heating supply unit your using to operate efficiently and not turning on and off short cycling for small zones. Otherwise you'll need a buffer tank (additional cost and heat loss).
  2. If the main goal is to reduce sound then get Gypframe Resilient Bars and fit them to the ceiling first. These are light, easy to fit and readily available. Then fit regular plasterboard to the bars. This will preform much better acoustically than blue acoustic board or thicker boards. However it doesn't matter what type of ceiling you install if you put loads of recessed downlights in the ceiling and make swiss cheese out of it the sound will always travel through the weakest point.
  3. I’ve only used 'natural' or 'ecofriendly' paints a few times. Once on an old church which had solid stone walls with a history of damp and wanted to ensure they were able to breath and dry out naturally. Other works were done which included lime re-pointing, electro osmosis and a new perimeter drain so in the grand scheme the paint wasn’t expensive. The other time was on a LEED certified building where you get green credits for different things like reducing VOC’s like using natural paints and carpets or floor coverings that have low VOC's. Otherwise I never bother to use or specify these expensive paints.
  4. Think where you want timers, switches, meters (water, electrical, heating, hot water, etc). Timers for outside lights? You'll be socked at how many switches, timers and control boxes this room will have. Where does the internet come in? Do you've a lot of data points and will you need a small wall cabinet for data switches? Do you've CCTV or an alarm that goes back to a control point? Do you've a central server for media, satellite or TV? If you end up with any of this electrical coms room stuff then keep it to the far side from water sources like manifolds, tanks, expansion vessels, etc. You have a water manifold. Is this for cold water? Do you've a hot water manifold? Will you separate the toilet and outside garden tap feeds into another manifold which would allow you to convert to rainwater harvesting in the future if water becomes more expensive?
  5. The preservation of swift birds is very important in the area I live. A university student did a research document on them a few years ago. Got a grant to do more research which developed into more grants, involvement by the professors and now the local authority and local area is the main swift conservation area in Ireland. Had to work with the local authority, heritage officer and conservation officer on a few projects where we knew they were nesting. They've a lot of info on the swift boxes here. http://www.swiftconservation.ie/nest-box-advice/ The huge advantage of swift birds is they're very quiet, they don't shlt anywhere near the nest or building like other nesting birds and are generally very clean. The elliptical hole (for which specific dimensions are available) into the bird box ensures the bird box is only used by swifts and not other birds. As for bats, loads of info is available for them. On one project I worked on we had a bat conservation specialist. We called him Batman!
  6. If you've a service cavity in the ceiling create a recess about 100mm wide by 50mm high (or whatever your service cavity allows if less) the full width of the ope. You can have the curtain track or a blind that disappears up into the ceiling and still have the glazing go up to the ceiling. As it's a recess which isn't seen you can hide a power or data cable should you wish to automate the blind or curtain in future. Put in a few timber noggins to grounds for blind or curtain if timber frame. Just a word of caution that going over 2400mm in height reduces the number of window suppliers who can offer a guarantee at that height so maybe do research on your window companies first before committing to the additional height. Otherwise I'd go for it.
  7. Oh I did something like @newhome above but I put in a dry biscuit mix (7 sand to 1 cement) This is super cheap, easy to do yourself and acts as a thermal mass and controls the heat better than the aluminium plates and improves the sound insulation. Can't remember the cost exactly now but a guess was something like 10 bags of cement and a ton bag of sand for less than €100 for all of upstairs.
  8. It's a big problem in reality. A lot of the issue is hidden behind the plasterboard or insulation so you mightn't know you have it until it's too late. People generally don't leave a cavity empty so it's not common on cavity buildings but does happen when people dryline too much on an old building. By this I mean they use to much internal insulation without getting an Interstitial condensation test done and move the due point to far inside. That's fine. Rule of thumb is once most of your insulation is outside or in the cavity you've the due point far enough outside. In your case 100mm outside (cavity) and 40mm inside is fine. If you'd only 50mm in the cavity and say 100mm inside you could potentially have an issue. The likes of Kingspan or other insulation companies have a technical department who calculate these tests for you for free. I've used them several times for different projects. You just email them your wall buildup and then email you the result. I then have to include it in my records to show we designed out condensation risk to the building fabric.
  9. One MAJOR issue with putting insulation on the inside only is what's known as Interstitial condensation. In any building you’ve the movement of moisture through the structure. This happens most when drying out but happens throughout the lifetime of a build but at a reduced rate. Airtight layers are designed to control this moisture flow but they still allow it. What happens is in a traditional cavity wall the outer block is cold and the inner block is warm. This cold moisture travels through the air across the cavity like the way moisture condenses on grass on a cold morning. The moisture travels inside and hits its dew point. The dew-point in a traditional cavity wall is in the cavity so when it condenses it drains out the cavity. With the insulation on the inside only then dew point will be inside the building. You’ll have moisture condensing inside leading to big damp problems, mould growth, rotting of the building fabric, etc. It’s a big problem. In timber frame buildings the issue is solved by ventilating the outside of the building and having it airtight. If you don’t have a timber frame with an airtight layer or if the airtight layer is punctured with a big hole the warm air from inside the house escapes through this hole, condenses to water and can damage the building structure over time. When drylining an old stone cottage you always have to get an interstitial condensation test done. This test tells you the maximum amount of insulation you can have before you move the dew point to far inside. If you just want to use large sheets of PIR on it’s own then external insulation is the way to go not internal. EDIT: I mentioned mould growth and rotting of the building fabric. Other issues include (which I've just googled): Mould growth, which is a cause of respiratory allergies. Mildew. Staining. Corrosion and decay of the building fabric. Frost damage. Poor performance of insulation and reduced thermal resistance of other elements of the building fabric. This in turn can reduce the temperature of the building fabric, exacerbating the condensation problem. Migration of salts. Liberation of chemicals. Damage to equipment. Electrical failure.
  10. I have just shadow gap trim where the plasterboard meet the floor and these continue up around the doors. Nothing else. Downstairs we laid the polished concrete floor then covered to protect it, fitted the plasterboard and then the shadow gaps everywhere. This was than all plastered. Upstairs where we have laminate timber and tiles we fitted the plasterboard about one inch short to allow build up of the floor finishes. Fitted the shadow gap, then plastered. Then the timber and tiles were fitted. We had a service cavity and the bottom horizontal timber batten was kept an inch short of the timber sub floor upstairs. This allowed the timber laminate and tiles to slide in under the wall and shadow gap. It appears the floor continues under the walls (which it does by 30mm or so) and you don’t need to worry about cutting them neat at the edges or seeing grout as they slide under. It looks very good and neat (I know it's my own house and I'd say that anyway but it does). What I did was add an extra layer of tape to protect the airtight membrane to stop a tile or laminate timber board getting pushed in to far and puncturing the airtight layer. That was tricky so do it earlier before the timber battens are fitted. If I was having a flush skirting under the shadow gap I’d do exactly the same but fit the skirting once the floor finish is down. This would make it even easier to slide the tile or laminate boards in under the walls.
  11. In terms of strength Plywood would be the strongest but is by far the most expensive. The next strongest is 18mm T&G OSB with chipboard the weakest but slightly cheaper than OSB. Now if you're joists are at 600mm centres you'll need 22mm T&G Chipboard but 18mm thickness is fine for the other options at 600mm. Is the 22mm chipboard on top of the 25mm insulation screw fixed through the insulation to below or floating? Not sure if you know but you should put in a 25mm batten (same thickness of insulation under all doors as this is where it compresses the most.
  12. Get a data sheet for each quote. The range of 3G is massive. You can get 3G that's so poor a good 2G is better. When comparing make sure you compare the u-value for the window and not the glass. A lot of sales people give you the u-value of the glass only as it's a lot better than the full window (frame and glass) to make their product look better. If in doubt ask us to help compare them.
  13. I'd combine the above advice and chip a tiny bit of plaster off like what @Onoff did and then measure and check multiple times and get someone with you. The reason I'd chip off a bit of plaster is you'll find some of the windows only have a 3-4mm thin plaster layer while others can have 30-40mm. At least that's what I found on my 1970's house when replacing the glazing.
  14. Do they've a window or do you've a window planned? You can get around privacy with frosted glass like a bathroom window but a big issue is fire. Windows are called unprotected areas in an elevation and the percentage of glazing relates to the distance. I don't know the numbers off but check Part B of the fire regs.
  15. Dudda


    Just to note as I've now put Internorm windows in a few projects and want to say that Internorm don't make aluminium trims and don't install windows. The way it works is you've the company Internorm in Austria who make the windows. They don't install windows or deal with clients or builders. They barely deal with architects like myself and only through an online portal you can ask questions and get drawings and data. You have window installers or dealers who can order Internorm windows which Internorm then make in Austria and deliver to the the location requested. The window installer or dealer then installs the window. If the window is measured wrong by the installer it's not Internorms fault. If the installer or dealer orders the wrong item it's not Internorms fault. All glass is put into the frames in the factory except very large pieces due to weight restrictions. If these glass units are installed back to front, etc in the frame on site it's the installers fault not internorms. Internorm don't make aluminium trims or cills. These are usually made by the window installer or they get someone to make them on their behalf. This is why I always get a sample window trim made as it's usually made locally and they don't come from Austria. Now what you can find is an Internorm 1st window partner. This is a window installer who Internorm has worked with and approved. Very few of these exist but are worth looking out for and are usually better than a dealer. You're constantly blaming Internorm and the windows but from reading this thread all the issues are with the window installer with possibly the exception of a dropped glazing bar however I expect this occurred during transport or installation. Internorm won' t say sorry as they never talk to clients. It's the window installer or dealer who you talk to and deal with who needs to apologise. I want to clarify this as I've to deal with the Internorm installers and fix problems. I double check all the window installer measurements and sign off on them before allowing them to be sent to Internorm and try and fix most problems at this stage where most issues occur and can take the longest to fix if new windows need to be ordered. With all windows 99% of the window issues I come across are with the installers and not the windows themselves.