• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About larry

  • Rank
  1. I'm putting in an MHVR into a 1920s build house, mostly solid walls but with some newer extension. My internal brain model is that it should allow for ventilation without the associated loss of heat of opening a window, using an extractor etc etc. We will progressively be working through and insulating each room as we go (and at least we have started this with wood fibre board IWI, Pavatherm recommended by Mike Wye) and sealing as we go so I expect the airtightness to improve, but of course realistically we are never to be anything like that of a modern house. However I expect the benefit from the MVHR will increase as we progress with this job. (We're also ripping out a lot of the upstairs so I have one chance to have simultaneous access to walls, floors and ceilings for fitting the unit and ducting, so it felt like the best time to do it). Ask me in 5 years how it went (!!), but from other forum posts I've read it seems people have been pleasantly surprised at least from the fresh air perspective of a MVHR in an older house.
  2. suggests north is preferable to allow a better summer bypass function.
  3. Ah, I had the opposite in my head! But I can't tell you why and have no confidence I'm right. An alternative option would be pretty impractical in my situation though
  4. Hi all, slight update here, or at least more a vent on my part! Arranged to get the boiler done first. Got a few quotes and had a Viessmann 200-w combi was due to be installed today. Plumber showed up this morning as promised. However, the central office hadn't told the plumber he'd be doing a vertical flue, and he confessed he'd never done one before and basically balked at the job saying he couldn't do it and we'd need a roofer in. Am super annoyed with the central office (who shall remain nameless for now) as I'd sent (in these COVID times in lieu of a visit!) loads of photos and videos of the layout in advance and... arrahhgh!
  5. Thanks all, hugely helpful suggestions all round!!
  6. Hi all, I posted a stupidly TL;DR thread elsewhere but no responses so I thought I would break down into specific questions rather than a huge omnibus entry! Essentially, do these split roof rafters need repair? And if so, how would you go about doing it? On another question somebody recommended foaming wood glue for a joist repair, and somebody else Cascamite. Would other of those be suitable? 1920s house Most of the other timbers look fine (apart from the rotten ones at the end, may ask separately about that) Timbers in loft look fine. Ta
  7. I very much recommend the free NG ESO app (at least on Android) which shows the above data as well as regional differences and makes future forecasts for carbon intensity/kWh. Burning coal is indeed the real stimulus of carbon output it seems!
  8. I should add, the walls underneath might have moved around a bit over the last ten years, but not signs of progression anywhere as far as I can see. The extension meant taking out a lot of the external wall which you can imagine is to my left from most of the photos. Similarly, most of the wall underneath this was taken out also in a later development.
  9. Hello everybody I'd love some advice. As part of works upstairs I recently took out an internal sloped lath and plaster ceiling in our 1920s house. This is in the middle of the original house and the wall is a single skin two storey wall with a timber wall plate and rafters sitting atop. To the left is a new two story extension which continues the line of the sloping ceiling which becomes an external wall/roof. However two years ago we had work done to repair what seemed to be a leaking valley. I only noticed this through a very small amount of evidence in the loft. The rafters in the loft all look pretty sound. Clearly the leak in the valley bad been there for some time as the left most rafter is completely done as is part of the wall plate. The second rafter looks impacted but clearly is giving strength. I guess the external roof is helped by the new extension running to the left. There are some cracks also in some of the good timbers. The rot is now bone dry and I have removed anything that came off in my hand without force. What I want to do is leave most of the rafters exposed (probably painting the rafters??) to let light across the top to a new landing. We are planning a suspended ceiling above.. Questions are: 1 opinions on the rotten bits and potential repairs or ways to strengthen them and treatment?? 2 opinions on need and if so methods to deal with the two rafters that have length wise cracks 3. Ideas to insulate underneath the valley 4. What else am I missing?? I don't think the rot looks like dry rot and no evidence of spread. It's clearly stable enough as has been like this for at least a couple of years without problems.
  10. An update from today, following all the helpful advice last night. Went to Ironmongers and bought D4 foaming glue (wow, amazing stuff) which seemed the best they had. Cut the ply into strips. Realised, of course, that the floor/ceiling has a Heringbone down the middle, which I'd forgotten was there (despite having looked at the many photos I'd taken of the underside when we had the ceiling down recently). That limited my total possible span of the ply to about 1.5m which I decided was still worthwhile even if not ideal. Who knows. Cut the ply strips down to size! Put glue, clamps and screws in. Filled the middles of the notches with offcuts as suggested, and plenty of glue. Weighed down with a brick to counteract the expansion of the glue (of course the brick the stuck to the top!) . Generally happy with efforts. Most joists looked fine except one which had a crackl on one side - nothing obvious I could see to cause it. Hopefully the ply/glue will help that also. Thanks to all for their guidance. Might need to start a post about some rotten rafter ends... was waiting for the carpenter to have a look but given how helpful you all are....
  11. A huge thank you for this very comprehensive post - a few comments/replies back below. This sounds more like a philosophical question. Is the next step up, after a notch, perchance professionally referred to as a botch? This is helpful. They are a little bit above a third. That's also helpful! So a little more detail might be helpful here then. The joists run between an RSJ and a wall, as I say the total span is about 3.2m. The cylinder if installed would be at the RSJ end, probably with its centre about 80cm from the wall. The joists at this end are fairly unadulterated in terms of notches and holes (there are a few holes for cables, but not many). At the other end, however there are two additional notches for cables and pipes. One is about 100mm (carrying cables) and one about 40mm wide (pipes). They are both within approx 450mm of the wall. These look to be older notches than the ones in the photo above and need to remain in situ to carry pipes/cables. We bought our house from a builder who had done an impressively superficial job all round. We love the house and have absolutely no plans to move but there has been an awful lot of 'clawing back' generally and then working out how to put things right along the way. It's meant an awful lot of working out the difference between things that are just plain wrong from things that might be a bit lazy but not seriously problematic, to things that actually are OK. Given I'm not in the trade, though handy with most things and happy to learn, half the work is working out which falls into what category.... One small example from the first category was a spur off a spur off a spur off a spur to a 25 metre run of 1.5mm T+E cable in the garden, buried 2 inches below the ground in no protective conduit, to a metal backbox, fitted to a metal shed, with condensation dripping down the inside of the shed roof and into the back of the backbox, to then another spur, again in another 10m unprotected run, to another shed... I realised something was wrong when my 400w jigsaw led to the shed light dimming.... We've found several horrors however, which has led me to be very mistrustful basically of everything we find in the house that's had the previous owner's hands on it (the signature mark being 1 inch plasterboard screws used for absolutely any and every purpose). This - also incredibly helpful. My geography means I'm limited to Homebase, Screwfix and a very handy Ironmongers. I might see what they stock. Alternatively of course there's the interweb. I'll definitely avoid the cellotape & good point about keeping the surfaces clean.
  12. If not already solved I would give another +1 to the Drayton wiser. Works well with my set up. Like having a completely zoned system but without having to reconfigure any pipework!
  13. Thanks Peter! Wavering over what to do with the top. Balance between not wanting to lift another board for the next ten years and knowing that almost certainly I'll want to!! But yes, a possibility. Guess that would help with load distribution?
  14. I think you are right, does this answer without risking the chocs? (Which means I guess my notches are currently outside what is now permitted, though holes instead of the notches would have been fine)
  15. Indeed, agreed very much on the plastic pipe front!!