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About Scoobyrex

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  1. have a look at the timber solution from screedflo, It is a different screed mix and they have guidance on the wooden floor makeup.
  2. Yes you are correct, I used the wrong term it would be concrete. So do I put the concrete internal walls directly on the beam and block, and then fit the insulation, UFH, and concrete around them, or do the blocks for the interior walls go ontop of the concrete finish of the floor ?
  3. Its traditional block and brick, not timber frame. My interior walls will also be block, presume the 1st course of these can be put in. and put the insulation, ufh and screed around them.
  4. ok, so it would mean i finish the sub floor before the rest of the build, that's do-able
  5. House will be block inner leaf, facing brick, 100mm cavity. Plan is to have blown eps beads. Do i need to install something for the eps beads to sit on at the damp course to stop the beads filling all the way down to the foundation. One EPS installer said to create a bridge of damp course, this seems dumb, where does the water go !!! Is there a mesh product that should be installed, or do you just let the beds fill all the way down the cavity ?
  6. So you would mesh and screed, then add a membrane, PIR or EPS, underfloor heating then screed again. there goes the height and the cost savings.
  7. I just received my floorspan quote using the 200mm EPS infills, it is £200 cheaper than using concrete blocks, I can use thinner PIR ontop saving another £1300 and have a higher U value by 0.1. Delivery I was quoted was 5-6 weeks I think the costs difference has somewhat todo with the current concrete block price. The only downside is the polystyrene infills need protection from impacts during the build.
  8. What do you mean by thermal board ? a link to an example if possible. Thanks
  9. Availability and cost. To take the design you have and get it ready for the structural engineer to continue doesnt need an Architect. Find the structural engineer you want to use (most likely based on availability) and ask for a recommendation for who they would advise you to use to get the material matters drawings ready for them. They will recommend someone who they work well with over and over again.
  10. Look for a recommended Architectural technician (Not Architect) that works closely with a structural engineer. Or ask your structural engineer for a recommendation. The architect technican can get the current drawings ready for the Structural Engineer if your original architect is willing to share the files. My quotes ranged from 4k to 22k. The 22k included glossy brochures, 3d mock ups, a local area study, material pallets for the planning application as well as a "liason" officer to manage planning. Technical drawings for building regs and a folder of technical specs for the build. It also included a number of hours for revisions/support once the build starts, but no direct involvement in the build. If you want to have a drawing of every nail, wire and socket 22k is great. If you are happy to make your own decisions on the go. it is a lot of money on something that could become quite rigid. From what you have described you should be able to find a structural engineer, a technician and submit to building regs for less than 4k, 15k is nuts and will probably take a lot longer.
  11. Did you pay by credit card ? If so start a claim back. The process starting will kick them into gear.
  12. He is using independent ground workers, builder for the shell and individual trades for the interior. Sorry do not have further details, he told me the price was higher than anticipated and has abandoned the idea.
  13. and look into the cost of a basement, my neighbor was quoted an additional 200k on his build for a basement in a 4 bedroom house.
  14. What was the outcome of your DIY CEMP ? I have just had a requirement of an approved CEMP before work can start. Crazy for a diy self build. there are 6 individual plots all applied for planning permission within weeks of each other, two have the requirement for a CEMP, four do not.
  15. You only have to comply at the time the house was built, you do not need to update the house to the current regs when you sell the house. not sure what additional value triple vs double would add to the value of the house, I would look at it has potentially saving x amount on heating costs, planning to live there Y years.