Russell griffiths

I like the locktight 577 but I’m not a professional plumber, just a wood butcher.

@Nickfromwales have a read of this.

Phone them and talk to them, don’t read the website. I am finding that 90% of the companies I buy from don’t actually know what they are talking about or understand what they sell. I had to tell them constantly that ivar make a lower temp blending set, they had no idea and didn’t know why I would want one. The problem is the people that work at these places live in a Barrett house and are just happy someone is stupid enough to pay them every week.

The title is not 100% correct. But it sort of sums it up. We have two holiday let cabins that that we would like to get a good internet service to they sit at the end of our land about 200m away from our new house, now I have just started talking to BT about a connection to the house, but I’m wanting to find out on other methods of getting internet down there. My wife is currently working from home in a spare room we have changed into an office the problem is the wife’s mother is coming to stay for a few months as they have just sold a house in London and are looking around our way for something. So I need to find the wife a new office space the cabins will be fine but we need good internet. So what options are there to receive a good internet signal. My first thoughts are a hard wired line from the new house, but what about dish receiver things, do they work, will it cost more than trenching 200m and still be crap. Does signal strength drop over the length of the cable. Thoughts please people this is not my strong point. Cheers russ.

Mine came from underfloor heating supplies, I have got the extra low heat blending valve. Just check what temperature you want with yours, some don’t go any lower than 30-35 degrees which I was told was not low enough so I got it swapped out for a lower temp one.

If you have no insulation under it you might as well throw £20 notes on the fire to keep you warm, most of the people selling these overlay systems haven’t got a f###ing clue. Of course they said it will work they want to sell it. You need to rip the whole floor up, find out why it is not level, insulate it properly, air seal it and then put the subfloor back down. If you you don’t want to do this then stick to radiators.

Yes garage built to same spec as house insulation wise, think I will call BCO Will probably do it in pink board just to make sure.

Icf house, so 150mm of concrete between the two. Fire door in the wall separating house from garage. No habitable room above garage, I’m thinking it needs nothing fancy, possibly no fire protection at ceiling at all as in open trusses for storage like @joe90 said, but it’s a vaulted ceiling for extra height in the garage so I’m boarding it to provide a nice working environment. Happy to use whatever board, I’m just thinking 30 minutes fire rating will be fine, but need clarification before I phone the BCO

Anybody else.

Do you need to build the garage yet, if you costs are going up on paper, wait until you start building it.

I have found kitchen units made of birch ply, they look solid, but I’m wondering if there is any need, once cupboards are fitted in place I’ve never really found problems with cabinets, it’s normally doors and drawers that start going scabby, are they worth the extra. Morning mods, if you want to stick this question in with my other one on kitchens that will be cool.

Starting to do designs for kitchens and wanted to know what difference there is in these foreign kitchens, I’m looking at the usual English suppliers and cannot find a lot of difference between any of them, same carcass materials used in all of them, some have a better product used for end panels and plinths. Happy to pay a lay a bit more for better quality, but would like to know what is better.

Are you going to live in it or is it for selling. The reason I ask is there a market for a big house like that.

There is nothing there worth keeping, rip it all out and get it chucked in a skip.

Cordless grinder, diamond blade, lots of water, lots of mess. I would have a go myself, but I’m a bit of a no guts no glory merchant, so I just get stuck in and wait and see if the shit hits the fan or not.

Ah ha, upstairs for thinking down stairs for dancing. Vaulted ceiling in garage for extra headroom.

I would say check all you service connection costs. Without meaning to be rude, that is a very small piece of land, so a very small house, so not the highest value, if you suddenly find it will cost £5000 to connect water, £12000 for electricity and £10000 for sewage connection then that could stop the project dead straight away. Do not proceed any further than a couple of grand deposit without checking these things, better to loose a couple of grand than buy something that can never be built. Remember the council might grant planning consent but that doesn’t mean it is actually possible to build it.

Afternoon all. I have an attached garage fixed to the side of the new house, I wanted your opinion on the plasterboard for the ceiling of the garage, although it is attached there are no habitable rooms above the garage. See technical drawing.

You only use foil tape on foil boards, as long as it’s an air tight tape it’s fine, you could use sellotape if it would stick.

You will find if you don’t tie it and a fat bloke stands on one piece it can kick the end up causing it to be too close to the surface tie it loads so it acts as one big sheet.

I would go with 100mm rockwool and then battens and plasterboard how tall are you?

I think the finish and colour is a bit immaterial really, when you put it up on the roof they all look very similar. Its just how dark you go, light grey through to black. Unless your really out there and go green or blue. I got got a few samples of roof sheets and did my own testing. I basically threw the sheets on the floor and jumped up and down on them, I then left them out in the rain to see what happened. A bit unconventional but hey ho, I worked out that I hated the aluminium. Too thin dented easily. So i would pick the base material and the coating if any, then the colour

Look up level 5 finish, you can skim the whole board with the product you do the joints with, spray or roller it on and finish with a wide skimming blade.

With the zinc roof, it doesn’t need to be zinc to look like zinc, the planners wouldn’t know the difference in any of the materials, send them in samples and get it signed off, lots of cheaper alternatives at half the price.

Pull out larders are a problem just waiting to happen, they get overloaded and door misalignment happens as soon as you load them. Avoid.