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About Me


  1. Hi there! I haven't managed to find a plot yet but for the past few months I've been designing the perfect home for my partner and I. I want it to be as "eco friendly" as possible but I'm not fussed on the technology that's used in home nowadays (ASHP's & MVHR's). That's why I've focused on a small footprint with lots of airflow around the house and just a wood burner as the main heating source for the winter. I am considering electric underfloor heating in the bathroom if needed. The shell will be made from SIP panels and will be clad in cork rather than a traditional brick, render or timber cladding. I'll also have a Solar Assisted Heat Pump for hot water as it has less moving parts than an ASHP and is ample just for our hot water use. My main stumbling block now is whether the ventilation system I want is adequate (I think it is but have no real experience apart from research online). Rather than a MVHR I've gone for a PIV system to pump in the fresh air and some old fashioned vents to exhaust the stale air. I'll be relying on air currents to transfer the heat and fresh air around rather than tons of ducting. I've attached a pic to show my ideal layout and some of my ideas. Anyone have any experience with this type of low tech build here?
  2. This is what my system controls would look like if I didn't have a computerised home automation system: Wait a minute, I haven't got a computerised home automation system!
  3. Following on from the excellent post by @DOIGAN where he replaced the bearings in one of the fans from his MVHR, this is a short post to detail the steps to replace the bearings in the extract fan in my Vent Axia Sentinel Kinetic Plus B (being a slightly different model and fan to that of the link below) The process I followed is basically the same as laid out by @DOIGAN in his original post. I've added a couple more pictures and descriptions below. To get at the fans, the unit has to be stripped down. First the duct spigots and blanking plates are removed. Both the back and front covers are then removed, allowing the top and side panels to be taken off - the side panels slide/interlock with the top and bottom panels. You should then have access to the fans on either side which are bolted to the poly core: I then disconnected the power connector to avoid having to try and unplug from the motherboard / cause any other issues. From this point I followed the process as per @DOIGAN Removing the circlip was a bit challenging, as for some reason the hub assembly would not depress, it turns out because the spring beneath wasn't seated properly. I managed to get the circlip off, but naturally it pinged up into the air and I spent several minutes searching for it until finally finding it some distance away. The bearings themselves (one on either end of the hub) popped out easily. I used the same bearings as @DOIGAN Reassembled and back into the MVHR unit. Cost - my time and £7.99 for a pack of 10 bearings vs £298.43 + VAT + shipping charge for a replacement fan from Vent Axia. Vent Axia were unable to give me any detail of the bearings used when I emailed to ask.
  4. Wasn't sure where to post this but here's our observations after storm Eunice passed through. Initially we watched the storm gather, we could see that that the wind was strong but from inside there was no indication, no sound, no draughts. As the wind picked up something we were not expecting happened, we could hear and feel a draught. We have two fairly large sliders and at the peak of the storm, the wind was pushing against the slider so much that there was airflow between the slider and the fixed pane. Not much and not continuous but it was definitely happening. Our air test was done to passive standards (positive and negative pressure) so we're fairly certain there is no problem with the sliders because if there was then the negative pressure test would have exposed that. Anyone have a contradictory view? A short time later we had a power cut , that doesn't matter. The house is warm, the Sunamp is fully charged (minus two showers), what could go wrong? Well, we're fully electric so there was no cup of tea to sup whilst watching the storm play out. Information gleaned is that the power will be out for over 48hrs And of course there's no heating. But what does that matter because the house is toasty warm at about 21.5° and we've not had any heating on for days. And the house is almost airtight, apart from the few blasts that squeezed through the sliders. Thanks to @Adrian Walker's advice we have a CO2 monitor, well we bought a couple. It was quite amazing how quickly the CO2 PPM started to increase after the power cut. Obviously the MVHR was having a bit of "quiet time", so now we had a toasty warm passive house that was not working as planned. As night drew in it got worse because lots of candles were lit. The only solution was to open some windows and get some airflow. Out of interest, it was only the monitors that informed us of the poor air quality, it wasn't something we sensed. So, we have a toasty warm passive house but with no airflow so a couple of the 'tilt and turn' windows on opposite sides of the house were tilted. That fixed things, air quality wise, very quickly but it also meant the passive house was now going to cool down more rapidly than planned. There are no heating options, apart from the bio-ethanol fire) so we were getting ready to break out the cold weather gear. Fortunately power was restored about 12 hours after the cut. We have a fair amount of PV, and it was quite a sunny storm but of course the PV trips off in a power cut. We were meant to have a battery system but the that didn't happen. The M&E individual who specced that (and didn't provide) had wired in an emergency power supply from which we could run the fridge and freezer in the event of a power outage, which was a pretty smart idea, shame it never happened, but actually my advise to anyone building to passive standards, if they have a battery system then make sure that the MVHR will run off the batteries. That's the main thing we've learned. If you have built to passive standard and have a battery system, make sure your MVHR can run from the batteries in the event of a power cut, I suspect most battery systems will power an MVHR unit for ages. Without that, you're not in a passive house anymore. Oh, and we had the first BBQ of the season this evening. Bit nippy!
  5. Running all 4 in the winter is quite interesting: PV generation: About a week with overcast skies and then a couple of days of sun. January is supposed to be the low point for PV generation. Based on the EU calculator we should produce about 180kWh in January. We measured 195 which is about 6.3kWh a day on average. However generation happened spasmodically along with the weather. For example 14kWh on a good day and 0.86kWh on a poor day. EV Having the electric car meant that on the few days in the month when the PV generation was over 2kW we charged the car. We use a 3kWh plug in charger. Even with a 5.12kW system on the roof at peak generation during January we only saw a top of about 3kW, so rather than waste (send to the grid) maybe a kW or two we charge the car when generating 2kW or more and reduce the overall cost of charging the car. We calculate that over a ten year period that 1kWh used will have cost us about 10p. Hot water: Most of the excess was captured in the hot water tank using the Solic 200 controller and a 1kW twenty seven inch immersion. Twice even reaching over 60C resetting the countdown timer designed to warn us when the tank has not been over 60C for more than 10 days. MVHR The MVHR is now running smoothly with all controls working. One of the interesting items is the water coils that have been installed in the air ducts. These have increased the inlet air temperature from 17C up to 25C depending on the heating water set temperature and flow rate through the coils. Quite nice to have warmer air into the rooms in winter. Can't wait to use them in summer when cooling the bungalow using the ASHP and powering the ASHP using the PV. ASHP: ASHP kWh use over January roughly 9kWh a day for 100m2 for average 20 C over 24 hours indoor temperature. Had to move the ambient temperature sensor on the ASHP the other day because it was exposed to direct sunlight and effecting the temperature compensating mode. If it wasn't for Build Hub and the helpful contributors I would have struggled with half of this..... Thanks to everyone on here who helps. Many people who are new to the idea of ASHPs will find this a good place to start. Good luck with your project. M
  6. On the last two mornings where its been pretty cold outside I've found a small amount of condensation on the insides of some of our triple glazed windows, I promised the good lady this would never happen!! The house is built to passive standard, has good airtightness and MVHR. Should I be getting condensation on the insides of the windows, and if not, what is going wrong?
  7. Hi everyone I’d welcome your thoughts please, especially on heating. Wanted to reach out to you all as I’m finding it’s tough to get unbiased advice and personal experience. We’re just about to start a renovation and extension project to a bungalow. The existing building is a time capsule from 1979 with a stunning avocado bathroom suite so we need to do the works: heating, ventilation, electrics, skimming, new flooring etc. So we have a blank canvas. We’re trying to work out the classic air source heat pump vs gas, and UFH vs radiators conundrum. The existing property is 60m2 with a concrete floor (the very fashionable original self-adhesive tiles are below an equally fashionable retro carpet). Ceiling height is c.2.3m. We need to plasterboard the ceilings before skimming, so are losing a touch of height there. The extension will be 30m2. Attic insulation is going to be increased, there’s cavity wall insulation, and we’ll be putting in new windows. We’re looking at installing MVHR. The existing property’s radiators need replacing anyway and the pipes are all currently mounted on the walls, so if we went for rads here it would be a big job including all the pipework chased through the walls, etc. Even if we couldn’t afford a heat pump now, we’d want to make it as ‘heat pump ready’ for the future as possible by using low flow temp rads, etc. Because of the expense of this scenario, we wonder the actual cost difference with the alternative, which is a low-profile retrofit UFH system? I’ve been researching and awaiting quotes - I’ve heard back so far from Nu-Heat for their LowPro Max. I’m concerned with appropriateness for the existing building, cost, additional lost ceiling depth (although I’m pretty short!), and if there’s a building regs issue with presumably having no insulation with the original concrete floor. We’d like to do UFH in the 30m2 extension and have been quoted so far for Nu-Heat’s relevant system. The grant from April closes the financial gap between a heat pump and a new gas boiler, as if we went for old school gas there would be extra costs to replace the ancient combi as well as moving the gas supply (crazy money!), required to accommodate the new floor plan. So as there would be a relatively minor jump in cost to a heat pump, we’re wondering if the time is right now? And if so, how this would influence the choice of UFH vs rads in the existing part of the house? Would really appreciate your ideas, observations and experience. Big thanks
  8. Well the combo is coming together and my wife insists that I make the controls as clear as possible "in case your not here". I wondering what she means. Still a lot to do though..
  9. What happens when a rule about venting by 7600mm2 underneath doors (eg 10mm x 760mm) conflicts with another rule about making certain doors fire doors. I thought fire doors needed intumescent strips. Do they still let enough ventilation through for MVHR (when the house is not on fire, which is the state I will aim for)?
  10. Hi All, I hope you're keeping well! I just wanted to introduce myself 'Joe' to the forum as I have been a long time reader and now hopefully getting closer to starting my own build. The forum is such a great resource for information and the knowledge of the users is simply amazing - I really do appreciate everything I have read here as it has helped me so far on my journey. I am hoping to learn as I go and all being well, I'll be able to help others as I pass through each stage of the build and gain my own knowledge and experiences. The house is a two story house with a connection to single story building for the kitchen, dinning and living area which in total is approx 330m2 sitting on 0.8 of an acre. It will have a ground source heat pump, with underfloor heating on the ground and first floor, mechanical ventilation heat recovery system and a PV solar array with battery. Windows triple glazed throughout. The current SAP report SAP rating: 92 A Environmental: 93 A If I have missed anything I will update the above. All the best, Joe
  11. We don't have a big information system on our ASHP. I decided just to add electric meters as a way of seeing what is going on. Our home is just about 100m2 floor plan bungalow. Decided to run the water coils in the MVHR ducts just to draw out any air. Left them on by mistake until we realised we were too hot but all the radiators were off! After this I fiddled with the ASHP heating temperature. Decided to set the ASHP heating water temp to 31C last evening for the hell of it. Last night's outside temperature was about 8 degrees. Got up this morning it was 20.5 in the bungalow. Running an ASHP system is very different from a gas boiler! Is it ok to run the ASHP at 31C? Presently I am finishing off the insulation in the loft and working on finishing all the pipe and duct insulation. Once done I am going to record the results of the MVHR efficiency. Once this is done I am going to record the effect the coils are having on the inlet air temperature. Good luck with your project M
  12. The holistic set I am installing is: ASHP main parts: : Air to water Cool Energy inverTech Air Source Heat Pump CE-iVT9 4.3kW-9.5kW Cool Energy 60L Stainless Buffer Tank CE-B60 MVHR main parts: Domus HRX2-D Heat recovery System with "summer bypass" 125mm and 150mm rigid circular ducting and Domus duct insulation. Electricity Generation main parts: PV Sofar Solar Grid Tied Inverter 6KTLM-G2 16 Longi 320W Mono Solar Panels CT clamp to limit power generation into grid. HOT Water system: 206 litre indirect hot water cylinder. 1kW by 27 inch 240 volt immersion heater Pump to showers Heating system: Panel radiators and two CWH 160-3 VentMatika Circular duct water heaters in the MVHR ducting. Cooling system: Two CWH 160-3 VentMatika Circular duct water heaters in the MVHR ducting. EV charging point: 13 amp plug-in point direct to ring main 13amp plug-in point controlled by PV production via CT clamp. Controls: Dampers to the MVHR. water flow sensors CT clamps
  13. This is posted during the design and installation phase during the winter 2021/2022. The cooling side results are not expected to be known until Summer 2022. As the air passes through the water coil it changes temperature depending on the coil water temperature. If the coil is going to be used for heating only it can be used without a condensate trap. However as this is going to be used for cooling as well I have constructed a drain in the bottom. Coil with lid off. Air flow from top of picture to bottom. Drain in bottom side of coil where air would be coldest. This is a picture looking down into the bottom side of the coil. I have added water to test that it runs away which it does. Because the coil is on the push side of the system ( inlet to rooms ) the condensate pipe requires a set of bends to form a sort of trap that the air would not escape from but water would. The air pressure in my system is very low as an MVHR pushes in and pulls out air in the building at the same time, so quite balanced.
  14. Hi. I live on a quite busy street and would like to install a MVHR unit in the void of a pitched roof which is facing the road. The ducting will be very short ( 1-2 m), taking it out from the Livingroom and supplying the air into the hallway, again with a very short ducting. Does anyone know about how much MVHR units would transfer the noise from outside maybe? I am looking currently at the following unit Blauberg KOMFORT EC D5B 180-E S14 Thank you in advance for your help and thoughts. Cheers Manfred
  15. Hi, I have joined this forum for help and advice on a recent MVHR system installation in my family home. I am not in a related trade\profession and until recently my knowledge about MVHR systems was non existent. I live in a relatively new home that for some unknown reason was built air tight and the upstairs living was very uncomfortable during periods of hot weather. After some research, I decided to retro-fit a MVHR system into the upstairs living area only and mount the system in the loft space. Due to my lack of free time and missing knowledge, I thought I would have it professionally fitted using a reputable MVHR design and installation company. I knew this would increase my costs but i thought that I would have piece of mind knowing the system was installed correctly. The system was installed last week, it took the company approximately 2.5 days in total at a cost to me of around £816 per day (£2,040 total). Over the weekend, i have had chance to check the work and unfortunately I am not happy with 3 particular areas and i would like the forums support to understand if my system has been installed correctly. My 3 issues are the following: Supply\Exhaust Vent boxes - The installers have damaged my Gable wall brick work whilst stitch drilling the stone for the vent boxes. Please refer to the "Issues 1" pictures below, you can see that above one vent too much has been taken off the stone and it is now holding water. The silicone seal has collapsed on both vent boxes. Ceiling plenum Installation - The ceiling plenums have not been fixed at both sides in the loft space, loose bits of wood have been wedged underneath adding weight on top of the boards. Please refer to "Issue 2" pictures below - the added weight has popped a screw and damaged my decorating in my bedroom. MVHR System Unit Mounting - The MVHR unit itself has been mounted on my trusses. Please refer to "Issue 3" pictures below. The wood used seems to be too short with only one screw in each. I would of thought that high duty plywood board should be used and screwed multiple times to each trusses to reduce resonance. I have not yet paid for the installation and I would just like to seek help and advice from the experts to understand if my highlighted issues have substance and how they would compare to other professional installations. Since this is my first MVHR experience, I have no other situation to compare to nor do I have a view of the professional standards for a MVHR installation. Happy to answer any questions, thanks in advance Nick
  16. More of the same... When insulating the ducts I noticed that the top of the MVHR was not insulated so I have installed flexi conduit on the cables ready to throw fluffy over the top. This is the inlet pipe running under the ridge. 150 diameter with insulation held on with cable ties An installed air damper in red. More about these later.... Water coil with thermal lid. Lid made from PIR. Lids off: The coils had no condensation drain so I installed one in the bottom. I cut the bottom 100mm PIR layer so the bottom if the box falls both ways to the corner with the drain and painted the bottom with a protection coat of metal paint. White 22mm drain pipe sticking out with temp cap off. Water trap still to be fitted... Side view of MVHR unit. Note the black "Summer bypass" with the white block on the side
  17. Installing coil in ducting Note that the condensation pipe still to be connected.
  18. The coils being prepared for the MVHR ducting
  19. I try to detail the info so people can check... The bungalow ran on LPG bottled gas for 3 years heating and hot water so I know what was used: I have used the worst 2 years: I am using the conversion rate of one kg of LPG gas giving about 14.091kW hours In 2 years we used about 13277kW of LPG energy for heating and hot water. ( about 10 bottles of 47kg ) If we deduct a modest 2kW for hot water each day ( total 1460kW) that leaves about 11,817 for the 2 years. In summary about 6000kW per year so 60kW per year per square metre of floor was what we were achieving. The target temperature in the house is 21 degrees C generally with 10m2 of rooms at 23C. The MVHR runs at about 6watts an hour or 52kW a year. I have a plug in meter on it. so lets say £20 a year power. It saves masses of heat.
  20. HI. I am currently looking into which MVHR unit I should get for a small house, refitted and think about the Blauberg BLAKOMFORT-ULTRA-D105-A or the Boulder DHV-04/100B. I like with the Blauberg that it has three speed options, is quite silent ( low speed), the max 76% heat recovery and the included warranty of 5 years. But it does not offer any automatic control unit to attach. The Boulder is a bit cheaper and just offers 3 years warranty and max 70% heat recovery. They do not give any db for the low speed function, but I have contacted them regarding this. But therefore a separate control unit is available to adjust the speed according to the humidity. Somehow it looks so to me that the Blauberg is more popular. Anyone here which has them and would like to share their experience ? And of course any other input is more than welcome. Is there maybe another MVHR unit which I oversee, but is rather reasonably priced and better than those two? Thank you in advance for your thoughts and help. Cheers Manfred
  21. Hi ashp, mvhr, pv, ev and duct water coils. I am just starting to bring all the above elements together in our bungalow and wanted to run the works on a blog on Buildhub. In order to show my appreciation of this site I have funded buildhub and PMed @newhome as requested. I have also PMed @BuildHub to ask about setting up a blog. I hope that the volenteers on buildhub will be able to help find the time so I can document what I'm doing. Also as I go I hope that feed back from the members will help me when I struggle. Here's where I am at present: Marvin
  22. Following on form the PHPP calls it looks like we'd benefit from some active cooling. I know Jeremy has the Genvex Premium 1 and is very happy with it, but are there any others out there worth considering? The only other that I've seen so far is the Paul/Zehnder one but that's coming out at about £7.5k plus vat - the Genvex Premium 2 that we'd need is about £5k from Denmark and £5.5k from the UK (both plus vat). I'd obviously like to get that down as much as possible if I can
  23. Hi, we've just bought a house that has a very old MVHR installed which needs the main unit replacing and the ducts cleaned and balanced. We are not planning on having an airtight house and will keep windows open during warmer months. We cannot decide if the benefits of running an MVHR in a non-airtight house warrant the cost to upgrade/service. We cannot find anyone in the local area (North East) that can assess our installation and make recommendations so would be grateful for your opinions. The installation is very old, the main unit is branded "Flow Engineering" and I've attached some photos. I can hear the fans are working but I cannot feel any air movement through the vents. There is galvanised metal ducting to every room and it extracts from kitchen, utility and bathrooms. The unit is mounted in the loft and there is no loft insulation at all. Is it worth upgrading and servicing the MVHR system or would it make more sense to install an MEV with the existing extraction ducting and remove the rest of the ducting in favour of loft insulation?
  24. I'm still trying to figure out how to best combine a regular MVHR with an add-on to provide for additional heating/cooling if required and have come across the Mitsubishi Lossnay system that includes the option of adding a GUG Air Processing unit (datasheet attached) that can combine with a small ASHP to provide direct heating or cooling of the supply air. I'm guessing this unit could be added to any MVHR provided the system had been designed in the first place to allow for increased volumes of air flow to move hot/cold air around to achieve an effective cooling/heating effect. Has anybody any experience of such a system in a domestic house setting? Or is this kind of set-up mainly used for commercial buildings? GUG-010203SL-E_PI_SHEET.pdf
  25. Hi there. This is my first post on the buildhub. I'm a halfways capable DIY-er, with more mistakes behind me than successes, but I learn. My current problem is the ventilation of my sons' bedrooms. Do you think you can help please? The window in each room has no trickle vent. Please see the attached photos. I do have a sliding vent above each bedroom into the hall. With 3 boys sharing two rooms, a lot of moisture and smell is generated overnight. I am not keen on leaving the windows open overnight, due to draughts and security. After watching a DIY video explaining how to retro-fit a trickle vent in a DG window, I drilled a pilot hole in one window frame, expecting a short penetration into void space within the frame that could likewise be accessed from the other side. Instead I hit something solid - possibly metal reinforcement within the frame. Anyways it looks like trickle vents are out, unless you can advise on what I might be doing wrong with the window frame, or perhaps suggest another means, e.g. through the brick wall? I'm concerned in any case these vents are passive and largely uncontrollable. They are also subject to clogging and the effects of wind and other weather stuff. Buildhub led me to the idea of PIV. I have plenty accessible space in my loft and easy access to gable ends, but not much money. I suspect they are expensive? I have two bathrooms, a kitchen and a living room, as well as 3 bedrooms to be involved in PIV. Do you think that might be a solution? What are the limitations? Can I DIY the installation? I also read about MVHR. Do you think that could work? Again, I don't have much money, what are the limitations? Can I DIY the installation? I read that this solution is dependent on air tightness levels of 5ach or below (air changes per hour). No idea how I can measure that. Do you know? A few questions here. Apologies. I hope you can provide some good advice that will help me. Ay. James.
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