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  1. We have a Vent Axia MVHR and are currently fitting the unit and associated metal ducts. The drawing from BPC specifies the silencer to be mounted vertically. No space for that in current position. Can this silencer be mounted horizontally please?
  2. Hello all. My six year old house was fitted with MEV by the developer but I’m planning to ‘upgrade’ to full MVHR. Although much MHVR goes on new build, plus some retrofit during refurbishment of older properties, I haven’t seen anything online about anyone upgrading existing MEV in this way. As background, my parents longed to do a self build, with MVHR oddly enough being one of the things mentioned a lot beforehand. It was installed in 2010/11, so I am familiar with such a system in practice. On buying my house new, the showhouses did have MVHR, but unfortunately all the others only have MEV. My original thinking was that I already have one half the of system in place, though perhaps I already get half the benefits. So while we get fresh air, humidity at reasonable levels and minimal condensation in the bathrooms, it galls me that trickle vents were cut into the frames of the triple glazed windows for supply and while I have two fans spinning 24/7, the heated warm air is just being pumped out. The extraction is not optimal – kitchen cooking smells permeate the whole house with the door closed, whether on boost or not. For some reason, only now are we getting some black mould in the en-suite bathroom. I have read up plenty since and so – as things stand – currently plan to go ahead. I’m also going ahead with an extension – highly glazed – and will need the SAP calc, so this is one of the few possible improvements I can make to the existing house if needed. (Loft insulation, firstly to building regs, though even better to the design spec, would be cheaper and easier so happening as well). The airtightness test result when new was 4.4 m3 /m2 hr @ 50Pa. Fairly average for recent new builds but certainly not spectacular. It’s below the figure where it should give some benefit, but above a level I expect some might think it’s not worth it. The extension will be built to a better standard, while there are some gaping holes in the existing house I am aware of and have filled or will do. Plus sealing up the trickle vents. Though at this sort of airtightness, I can’t justify a top end system professionally installed, it just will not pay back. Though I have acquired a good value unit and plan to do much work myself to limit expense. I don’t think I’ll necessarily use all that is currently in place. Rigid ducting was used for the extract and is not especially well sealed at joins where visible. The ceiling extract ducts were generally placed near the doorway, not at the opposite corner. The two existing roof extract terminals (there are two separate MEV units) are on the southern elevation but have insufficient free area to repurpose one as a supply and leave the other as extract. The manual boost switches might be the few parts I reuse. There is power to one of the MEVs that would also be the loft location – admittedly unheated – for the MVHR unit. I do have useful behind-shower voids at the front and back to enable semi rigid supply to all the ground floor rooms that need it, and back from the extract rooms. The doors already have sufficient gaps underneath. The reason for posting here is to ask a few queries on what I’m still unsure of. And if it does go ahead, perhaps be one of the few resources to document an MEV to MVHR upgrade. Savings are difficult to quantify at present. I would appreciate some hints on the following: Which of these positions, or something else entirely, would you put the external supply and extract terminals? A (Red): North roof through roof terminals, B (Gold): North roof soffits (might be easiest to install but need to watch the free area), C (blue): East gable end above the slightly lower roof. Overall I am trying to avoid the SW prevailing wind, be on the same elevation, far enough apart and be shaded in summer. I have seen a number of posts of DIY commissioning and producing the certificate for building control. As an alternative, there are a number of firms that can do testing, but is there a competent persons scheme for any of these testers? Reason I ask is that on speaking to building control they said it would be usual for installers to self certify as would be done for gas / electricity, in which case there is no BC fee. Though I have not found a similar scheme. If I have to pay the building control fee anyway, then I would probably test myself. Is this really worth going ahead with, or pulling the plug now? I am hopeful of getting this completed for under £2k all in for the parts, my labour counted as zero. One possible supplier for the large glazed doors for the extension wanted over £900 to add trickle ventilation. I’m not going with that firm, but whoever I use I avoid the need for those vents. Overall, I would hope to minimise the ventilation losses but have difficulty quantifying the payback. Non-financially, I would see benefits from input filtration (due to hay fever) and soundproofing from sealing the old vents. Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  3. Hello all. I am currently awaiting planning permission on a new build in Derbyshire, trying to make some decisions on my heating source and emitters, and how it works with MVHR. I'm looking for a sensible, economical solution but will pay a bit more for a clear benefit. I intend to move out of the house in 5-10 years so can't entertain anything with long payback periods. Plans are attached to hopefully give context. Intended build method is ICF, so the walls will have a u-value of 0.19. Likely to have either block and beam (maybe Tetris), or a concrete slab ground floor. Upstairs will be a suspended timber floor. Heating source - I'm guessing with gas (in the road but would need to make a connection) I'd be silly not to get a gas boiler? Or would an ASHP still be a sensible option to investigate? Heating emitters - With a solid floor, would UFH be an obvious choice for downstairs? For upstairs I've looked at Omnie TorFloor and Pug Screed, otherwise just radiators? Is forced air another option worth investigating? MVHR - it would seem this is an obvious thing to have on a new build? Should I look at an inline heat pump with this to provide some additional heating and cooling, or is this not really worth it? Be glad of any advice. Thanks! 19-003-20-E Proposed Floor Plans-[A1].pdf 19-003-21-B_Proposed_Elevations-[A1].pdf 19-003-22-B Proposed Section A-A-[A1].pdf
  4. We're planning on using our attic space as a playroom and I can't work out whether the temperature will be balanced or if it's going to be too hot up there in the summer and too cold in the winter. The house is an MBC build (0.11 walls, insulated roof and slab) which is currently in build, with triple glazed alu-clad windows (which are fixed apex windows in the attic). We're putting UFH on the ground and first floor but nothing in the attic. The MVHR unit is going up here so we can add vents into this space and there will be a number of rooflights, probably double glazed. Will this be enough to create a usable temperature up here? If the whole house is 3G, are we made to put double glazed up here (to cut costs)?
  5. I am planning the design for our new build and have created a nicely sized plant room on the ground floor. In our last build, our MVHR was put up in the loft and this appears to be a very standard place. However, it was horrible to get to to change the filters and more importantly, in this build we are having a flat roof so no lofts in sight! Is there any possible reason why the MVHR cannot go downstairs? If the intake and exhause vents need to be at first floor level, is there normally any resitriction on the length of pipework? We haven't even looked at MVHR units yet so checking the spec of "our" unit isn't possible. If there is no reason not to put it downstairs, am I missing something in wanting it accesible? I know you only change the filters once or twice a year ( not sure because I am not the one who would venture into the loft to do the deed), but it just seems to make better sense to me. It also caused us lots of issues when it came to doing the air-tightness tests at the end. We have learnt a lot from that build which was lovely to live in but cost a fortune to heat.
  6. My distribution box for the MVHR ( sometimes called spigot box or manifold) will sit beneath a flat roof , but above a ceiling. The roof build up from top down is; Alvitra Avalon over 270mm of insulation on some super expensive vapour stuff - forgotten the name - the price was so traumatic 22mm OSB3 POSIs above the ceiling build up which is Vapour control layer 25mm insulation 12 mm plasterboard 2mm plaster skim. There's enough space for spigot boxes to sit comfortably under the POSIs. That means they are outside the heated envelope. (just) The supplier says not to worry : but they would wouldn't they? Everyone has that problem, said the rep, What do you think?
  7. Hi. Firstly, not sure this is the correct place to post... never seen so many sub-forums in my life.... We're building a 245m2 passive(ish) house this year. South facing, plenty of solar gain when need (bris soleil and external blinds to minimise when not wanted). https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/9228-hi-icf-project-in-holywood/ We're in a town and on mains gas, so it seems by far the most logical source of energy for heating and hot water. As much as I want to de-carbonise, a heat pump doesn't make sense in our case. So, that part is sorted. As we'll have triple glazing, ICF walls, large thermal mass, high air tightness, our energy demand will be low. I don't see the point in spending thousands installing a central heating system. Plus we'll have a wood burner - will be rarely used, so not fussed if there's a back boiler on it. Our initial PHPP assessment attached. I'm thinking plumbed towel rads in wet rooms and maybe 2kw post heaters (3x 150mm - one for each level - each with own control e.g. central warm water heater) Any issues with the above? Would also consider electric under tile heating mats for the master en-suite for my other half's chronically cold feet... My main query is hot water.... there's just the two of us and we both travel a lot for work so we've no regular routine. We have a combi boiler in our house which is great.... but hate the long delay for hot water to come out of the tap and the massive pressure and flow drops when somebody else flushes a toilet or turns on a tap. So I'm ruling that out. I'm also planning on a 3-4KW PV system with solar diverter to provide hot water in the summer... so that means some sort of storage. What are my options? In summary, we need instant DHW on demand, high flow rates, low running cost, heatable by gas and PV. Thernal store, unvented HW cylinder or sunamp type storage? Really unsure!!! Thanks
  8. I am a new member at the planning stage of a new build house for our retirement and looking to make it as comfortable, efficient and maintenance free as possible. I am trying to get my head round the many and various heating options – things have changed beyond recognition since we built our current house 35 years ago. The plan is that we will have one large room incorporating living/kitchen/dining. This will be on the first floor with ceiling at roof height and extensive glass to S & W to maximise the views. I know this isn't ideal, but we love the outdoors and the views are spectacular. Bedrooms all ground floor. My current thinking is to have wet UFH in concrete screed floors on both levels; either GSHP or ASHP (current preference). Can the ASHP be located in an outbuilding to avoid noise issues? My main concern is solar gain:- Can I utilise this free energy to heat the lower floors/DHW in winter (MVHR)?? How do I keep it cool as we experience the ever warm summers we are promised? (MVHR/AC/??) Thanks in advance
  9. Is it me, or does the requirement to fit fire rated doors upstairs (in our case FD30) mean we can't have MVHR? (Because of the gap under the door for the MVHR). Please tell me I'm wrong. Please tell me I'm overthinking! Reviewing current threads on and around the subject of fire doors, nobody seems to have pointed out that MVHR and FD30 doors are incompatible. Yet common sense says they ought to have door auto closers on them (but that requirement has been removed @PeterW here ) , but it seems obvious to me that a fire door with a gap under it is about as useful, well, as a chocolate fire door. I've reviewed Approved Document B, and the table on page 64 seems to suggest we could use an FD20. Both our bedrooms have a suicide door in them, (with a Juliet) so I suppose it might not be too bad.
  10. Reaching the final straight, need to purchase the main MVHR unit. Was originally going to get an Adroit DV110 but the prices have rocketed, the Kinetic Advance SX looks a strong contender, however the limited reviews of the App on the Apple App Store do not seem very favourable... A key feature for me is being able monitor and interact with the MVHR when away from the property, (new build is over 100 miles away from main house) I've seen the Adroit in the flesh and used the 'cloud' function and whilst clunky it does what I need. Anyone actually got a Kinetic Advance SX, how are you getting on with it and the app?
  11. I found some mention of this in other posts but not my specific question. Now that the hot weather is back I have noticed that on occasion the master bedroom in our current house is a little uncomfortable at around 25C although opening the windows soon fixes this. In the new place the master bedroom has a lot more glass, basically a west facing glazed gable and insulation levels are higher. This got me thinking should I consider "comfort cooling" which I often see advertised on flats in London. I believe that @JSHarris has this on his MVHR, I think via running his heating in reverse? In my case I would have to change the MVHR unit to one that allows cooling. It is partly an attractive option because we will have 3 MVHR units (Dantherm) but one supplies the most used rooms in the house with the most glass so I would only have the extra cost of changing that one unit. I spoke briefly to the heating engineer and he felt it wasn't worth it as there would be an considerable increase in costs because we would have to also up spec the pipework to allow for the possibility of water condensing in it. It would effectively have the same costs as putting in an AC system. He felt that summer bypass is enough, certainly in Scotland it would be rare for the actual outside air temperature to be well above 20C, especially in the evenings. Also we can always open the windows. If this isn't enough he recommended looking at solar reduction film for the windows or a through the wall AC unit. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience of using comfort cooling and how well summer bypass works in practice?
  12. Hard hat on. It is possible to run MVHR ducting through a passive slab? I am starting to think about ducting runs from my bungalow with vaulted ceilings. As a bungalow, there are no joists to take the runs. Passive slab not poured for another few months at least.
  13. Fitting my vent terminals for my Mvhr supply and extract valves and I know a few on here have used BPC for the ducting etc. When cutting the plenums down to size, the bit that sticks through the plasterboard that the ceiling valve pushes into, have people left them to protrude a little bit lower than the plasterboard? It is just when I looked at how the valve attaches to the plastic tube it needs to compress a foam gasket and I assume for this to work properly it would need the tube to be left longer than the flat surface of the p/board to make a snug fit? TIA
  14. Hi guys, Just joined this group. Just finished building a Passivhaus in Penzance, Cornwall. My friend and I built 2 houses together, one for each family on a challenging plot chasing the passivhaus dream... We've been in the house since end July and just seeing how it copes with our first winter! So it's a timber. Frame design, sitting on a concrete raft (on 30cm insulation!) planned using the PHPP software to conform to PH standards. So it's super insulated, airtight (0.3ac/hr) no cold bridges, triple and quadruple (skylights) glazed with Brink MVHR system (ubbink plastic duct and plenum). My friend developed the wall buildup himself to achieve the PH standards without us having to buy premade PH timber frame sections, saved us a lot of money... Biggest struggle so far, trying to get the. Brink post heater to operate... It's wired up correctly but won't operate, even at high fan speeds...? Which is really why I joined this forum, to hopefully glean some info as our supplier hasn't solved it (or Brink at this stage!) Cheers.. Murray
  15. I need to improve the ventilation of my own house (2009 chalet bingalow conversion, done to roughly 2010 regs), as it now needs to run slightly warmer for parent comfort reasons and is starting to feel a little stuffy (need to check humidity). In theory I could fit an MVHR, but it is a warm roof chalet bungalow conversion so that would be more than a little complicated, and also of course it would be a big disturbance. The plan is to try: 1 - a PIV unit upstairs - which will be on a wall on the landing not a ceiling with the unit in a space behind a stud wall in the roof angle, as nearly all the ceilings are sloping and if I get into the tiny roof voids it will be very tricky outside. 2 - Replace both upstairs and downstairs bathroom fans with (100mm) dMEV fans. 3 - If necessary trim a few mm off bathroom doors. I would welcome any comments. I am not expecting a transformation, just an improvement. I routinely fit PIVs in rented properties, and a HR fan somewhere downstairs, and all of the installations have worked well. Any comments would be most welcome. Cheers Ferdinand
  16. In the most recent Passivhaus Trust newsletter (link below) is a link to this document, "Good Practice Guide, MVHR for single dwellings". Its a detailed description of how to design an MVHR system for a Passive House. The guide: http://passivhaustrust.org.uk/UserFiles/File/Technical Papers/2018 MVHR Good Practice Guide rev 1.2(1).pdf The newsletter: https://mailchi.mp/passivhaustrust/pht-news-sept-18?e=894c841f59
  17. I’m looking to control the losnay MVHR system with some wireless humidity switches - similar to wireless temperature sensors. Does anyone know of any good ones? R ed
  18. This weekend is MVHR install weekend (hopefully). We are looking for some pointers from anyone who has installed a Vent Axia Kinetic Sentinel unit. BCP has supplied all the kit. Very thorough. Could do with an idiots guide for the plan of attack though. First attempt at a plan. How does this sound? 1. site manifolds 2. Site plenums 3. Cut duct lengths and join between manifold and plenum (cutting holes in walls and floors as needed) 4. Site unit 5. Figure out how to connect all those silvery pipes from the unit to the manifolds 6. Put in pipes to outside Is this a reasonable approach? We have trawled this site for photos. Any out there that show all the connections to and from the unit itself and the manifolds? It looks like it should be fun (or the makings of a divorce) 😉
  19. Hi All - i think the filters on my mvhr unit need changing. I’ve just read the manual and it says they should be replaced every 12 months but I’ve only been in my new home 5 months and the machine sounds like it’s having to work quite hard. It’s gotten much noisier. My sustem is Vent Axia Lo Carbon Sentinel Kinetic V MVHR system. I tried to hoover the current filters this evening but it’s a really tough task with little success. Does anyone one know where I can buy replacement filters from for cheap?! I’ve looked online and they all seem really pricey. If you have to change them regularly then it’s really going to add up! Any advice would be really helpful. Also, I’ve seen online that there’s different grades of filter quality. Can you really tell the difference? Thanks
  20. What is this thing doing that a water trap does not? http://www.fantronix.com/acatalog/Heat-Recovery-System-Condensation-Drain-Kit.html Thanks
  21. Blowing a gale but sunny so giving the mvhr unit is 12 month clean. Not too bad. A few flies in it though.
  22. Hi everyone, I'm pricing and speccing MVHR units with both BEAM and BPC in Northern Ireland at the moment. I'm having a hard time deciding which system is right for us and tbh I feel like I'm dealing with two really salesy sales men, making it hard for me to know if I'm being steering down the garden path. Beam are telling me Rotor is the best and I'm silly to go for Counterflow. They are recommending x2 Counterflow units or x1 Rotor Unit for my 288m2 self build. BPC have told me I'm being taken for a mug and they have recommended x1 Counterflow unit. The BPC unit will be running at 30% capacity and the BEAM unit/s are sitting closer to 50%. I'm totally lost and have to decide pretty soon as to which is best. I'm happy to share spec sheets and pricing etc with anyone privately (not a fan of putting quotes up for everyone to see lol). Any help would be mega appreciated ?
  23. I'm probably a bit late, I am in the middle of a self build and am looking for advice. I have 240 m2 of floor space and have opted for UFH for the ground floor which I have purchased from NuHeat with Neostats. Upstairs I have aluminium Rads with a neostat on the landing and a 300 UV cylinder again with a Neostat all of which are hard wired. I have natural gas and am looking at a modulating Worcester 34kw system boiler. I have a 4kw pv system (SW facing and hopefully will fit an immersun) with single panel optimisers and a Beam c130 MVHR system. I have installed the first fix myself and am looking for any suggestions/advice on things I may have missed. I think I am down to about 0.17 on the external walls with 140mm batts and superfoil, osb before plaster board and also used the foil breather membrane on the external timber frame. A Scan 58 log burner has also been purchased as I am looking at cutting down on bills the closer to retirement I get ? . Dare I venture into the AV/networking!! I am dreaming cables at the moment!!! Thanks in advance C
  24. Hello, Suspect a few of you have faced this challenge with your mvhr system. Is there a certain distance the kitchen mvhr extract plenum to the cooker hood/hob? Is this the direct distance? Or the horizontal distance from directly above the hobs? Would 1m be enough? I've tried finding an answer on line / in my various folders but no luck. What have you all done about extractor hood? Just use a recirculating one? Cheers CC
  25. This post covers more than just MVHR, but I wasn't quite sure where this post would be best placed. Admins feel free to relocate if need be! As you can probably guess by this post going up late on a Saturday, I've been doing a lot of modelling of our heating and energy systems for our house. It has taken a while to get the model to accurately reflect reality, but I think we've finally nailed it. Whilst not surprising, what it has clearly established is that: PV is a no brainier, provided you have the capital up front! Though that's another topic all together (posted here). The MVHR bypass will be insufficient to counter the solar gain during the peak summer months. It's often said that the biggest problem with passive houses (or near passive as our's is) isn't the heating, but the cooling. They're right! Thankfully we have opening windows and plans to use a canvas above our pergola to shade some of the southern windows. So more our of general curiosity, what else have people done to keep the tempretures stable and comfortable during the summer months?