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  1. We're planning on using our attic space as a playroom and I can't work out whether the temperature will be balanced or if it's going to be too hot up there in the summer and too cold in the winter. The house is an MBC build (0.11 walls, insulated roof and slab) which is currently in build, with triple glazed alu-clad windows (which are fixed apex windows in the attic). We're putting UFH on the ground and first floor but nothing in the attic. The MVHR unit is going up here so we can add vents into this space and there will be a number of rooflights, probably double glazed. Will this be enough to create a usable temperature up here? If the whole house is 3G, are we made to put double glazed up here (to cut costs)?
  2. I found some mention of this in other posts but not my specific question. Now that the hot weather is back I have noticed that on occasion the master bedroom in our current house is a little uncomfortable at around 25C although opening the windows soon fixes this. In the new place the master bedroom has a lot more glass, basically a west facing glazed gable and insulation levels are higher. This got me thinking should I consider "comfort cooling" which I often see advertised on flats in London. I believe that @JSHarris has this on his MVHR, I think via running his heating in reverse? In my case I would have to change the MVHR unit to one that allows cooling. It is partly an attractive option because we will have 3 MVHR units (Dantherm) but one supplies the most used rooms in the house with the most glass so I would only have the extra cost of changing that one unit. I spoke briefly to the heating engineer and he felt it wasn't worth it as there would be an considerable increase in costs because we would have to also up spec the pipework to allow for the possibility of water condensing in it. It would effectively have the same costs as putting in an AC system. He felt that summer bypass is enough, certainly in Scotland it would be rare for the actual outside air temperature to be well above 20C, especially in the evenings. Also we can always open the windows. If this isn't enough he recommended looking at solar reduction film for the windows or a through the wall AC unit. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience of using comfort cooling and how well summer bypass works in practice?
  3. Hard hat on. It is possible to run MVHR ducting through a passive slab? I am starting to think about ducting runs from my bungalow with vaulted ceilings. As a bungalow, there are no joists to take the runs. Passive slab not poured for another few months at least.
  4. Fitting my vent terminals for my Mvhr supply and extract valves and I know a few on here have used BPC for the ducting etc. When cutting the plenums down to size, the bit that sticks through the plasterboard that the ceiling valve pushes into, have people left them to protrude a little bit lower than the plasterboard? It is just when I looked at how the valve attaches to the plastic tube it needs to compress a foam gasket and I assume for this to work properly it would need the tube to be left longer than the flat surface of the p/board to make a snug fit? TIA
  5. I am planning the design for our new build and have created a nicely sized plant room on the ground floor. In our last build, our MVHR was put up in the loft and this appears to be a very standard place. However, it was horrible to get to to change the filters and more importantly, in this build we are having a flat roof so no lofts in sight! Is there any possible reason why the MVHR cannot go downstairs? If the intake and exhause vents need to be at first floor level, is there normally any resitriction on the length of pipework? We haven't even looked at MVHR units yet so checking the spec of "our" unit isn't possible. If there is no reason not to put it downstairs, am I missing something in wanting it accesible? I know you only change the filters once or twice a year ( not sure because I am not the one who would venture into the loft to do the deed), but it just seems to make better sense to me. It also caused us lots of issues when it came to doing the air-tightness tests at the end. We have learnt a lot from that build which was lovely to live in but cost a fortune to heat.
  6. Mkgolder

    Penzance Passivhaus

    Hi guys, Just joined this group. Just finished building a Passivhaus in Penzance, Cornwall. My friend and I built 2 houses together, one for each family on a challenging plot chasing the passivhaus dream... We've been in the house since end July and just seeing how it copes with our first winter! So it's a timber. Frame design, sitting on a concrete raft (on 30cm insulation!) planned using the PHPP software to conform to PH standards. So it's super insulated, airtight (0.3ac/hr) no cold bridges, triple and quadruple (skylights) glazed with Brink MVHR system (ubbink plastic duct and plenum). My friend developed the wall buildup himself to achieve the PH standards without us having to buy premade PH timber frame sections, saved us a lot of money... Biggest struggle so far, trying to get the. Brink post heater to operate... It's wired up correctly but won't operate, even at high fan speeds...? Which is really why I joined this forum, to hopefully glean some info as our supplier hasn't solved it (or Brink at this stage!) Cheers.. Murray
  7. I need to improve the ventilation of my own house (2009 chalet bingalow conversion, done to roughly 2010 regs), as it now needs to run slightly warmer for parent comfort reasons and is starting to feel a little stuffy (need to check humidity). In theory I could fit an MVHR, but it is a warm roof chalet bungalow conversion so that would be more than a little complicated, and also of course it would be a big disturbance. The plan is to try: 1 - a PIV unit upstairs - which will be on a wall on the landing not a ceiling with the unit in a space behind a stud wall in the roof angle, as nearly all the ceilings are sloping and if I get into the tiny roof voids it will be very tricky outside. 2 - Replace both upstairs and downstairs bathroom fans with (100mm) dMEV fans. 3 - If necessary trim a few mm off bathroom doors. I would welcome any comments. I am not expecting a transformation, just an improvement. I routinely fit PIVs in rented properties, and a HR fan somewhere downstairs, and all of the installations have worked well. Any comments would be most welcome. Cheers Ferdinand
  8. In the most recent Passivhaus Trust newsletter (link below) is a link to this document, "Good Practice Guide, MVHR for single dwellings". Its a detailed description of how to design an MVHR system for a Passive House. The guide: Papers/2018 MVHR Good Practice Guide rev 1.2(1).pdf The newsletter:
  9. I’m looking to control the losnay MVHR system with some wireless humidity switches - similar to wireless temperature sensors. Does anyone know of any good ones? R ed
  10. This weekend is MVHR install weekend (hopefully). We are looking for some pointers from anyone who has installed a Vent Axia Kinetic Sentinel unit. BCP has supplied all the kit. Very thorough. Could do with an idiots guide for the plan of attack though. First attempt at a plan. How does this sound? 1. site manifolds 2. Site plenums 3. Cut duct lengths and join between manifold and plenum (cutting holes in walls and floors as needed) 4. Site unit 5. Figure out how to connect all those silvery pipes from the unit to the manifolds 6. Put in pipes to outside Is this a reasonable approach? We have trawled this site for photos. Any out there that show all the connections to and from the unit itself and the manifolds? It looks like it should be fun (or the makings of a divorce) 😉
  11. Hi All - i think the filters on my mvhr unit need changing. I’ve just read the manual and it says they should be replaced every 12 months but I’ve only been in my new home 5 months and the machine sounds like it’s having to work quite hard. It’s gotten much noisier. My sustem is Vent Axia Lo Carbon Sentinel Kinetic V MVHR system. I tried to hoover the current filters this evening but it’s a really tough task with little success. Does anyone one know where I can buy replacement filters from for cheap?! I’ve looked online and they all seem really pricey. If you have to change them regularly then it’s really going to add up! Any advice would be really helpful. Also, I’ve seen online that there’s different grades of filter quality. Can you really tell the difference? Thanks
  12. What is this thing doing that a water trap does not? Thanks
  13. Blowing a gale but sunny so giving the mvhr unit is 12 month clean. Not too bad. A few flies in it though.
  14. Hi everyone, I'm pricing and speccing MVHR units with both BEAM and BPC in Northern Ireland at the moment. I'm having a hard time deciding which system is right for us and tbh I feel like I'm dealing with two really salesy sales men, making it hard for me to know if I'm being steering down the garden path. Beam are telling me Rotor is the best and I'm silly to go for Counterflow. They are recommending x2 Counterflow units or x1 Rotor Unit for my 288m2 self build. BPC have told me I'm being taken for a mug and they have recommended x1 Counterflow unit. The BPC unit will be running at 30% capacity and the BEAM unit/s are sitting closer to 50%. I'm totally lost and have to decide pretty soon as to which is best. I'm happy to share spec sheets and pricing etc with anyone privately (not a fan of putting quotes up for everyone to see lol). Any help would be mega appreciated ?
  15. I'm probably a bit late, I am in the middle of a self build and am looking for advice. I have 240 m2 of floor space and have opted for UFH for the ground floor which I have purchased from NuHeat with Neostats. Upstairs I have aluminium Rads with a neostat on the landing and a 300 UV cylinder again with a Neostat all of which are hard wired. I have natural gas and am looking at a modulating Worcester 34kw system boiler. I have a 4kw pv system (SW facing and hopefully will fit an immersun) with single panel optimisers and a Beam c130 MVHR system. I have installed the first fix myself and am looking for any suggestions/advice on things I may have missed. I think I am down to about 0.17 on the external walls with 140mm batts and superfoil, osb before plaster board and also used the foil breather membrane on the external timber frame. A Scan 58 log burner has also been purchased as I am looking at cutting down on bills the closer to retirement I get ? . Dare I venture into the AV/networking!! I am dreaming cables at the moment!!! Thanks in advance C
  16. Hello, Suspect a few of you have faced this challenge with your mvhr system. Is there a certain distance the kitchen mvhr extract plenum to the cooker hood/hob? Is this the direct distance? Or the horizontal distance from directly above the hobs? Would 1m be enough? I've tried finding an answer on line / in my various folders but no luck. What have you all done about extractor hood? Just use a recirculating one? Cheers CC
  17. This post covers more than just MVHR, but I wasn't quite sure where this post would be best placed. Admins feel free to relocate if need be! As you can probably guess by this post going up late on a Saturday, I've been doing a lot of modelling of our heating and energy systems for our house. It has taken a while to get the model to accurately reflect reality, but I think we've finally nailed it. Whilst not surprising, what it has clearly established is that: PV is a no brainier, provided you have the capital up front! Though that's another topic all together (posted here). The MVHR bypass will be insufficient to counter the solar gain during the peak summer months. It's often said that the biggest problem with passive houses (or near passive as our's is) isn't the heating, but the cooling. They're right! Thankfully we have opening windows and plans to use a canvas above our pergola to shade some of the southern windows. So more our of general curiosity, what else have people done to keep the tempretures stable and comfortable during the summer months?
  18. le-cerveau

    MVHR Balancing

    Apologies I didn’t take many pictures of the process. Initial Frustrations: Due to a delay in the First Floor (FF) Micro Screed, couldn’t access the house as planned (Thursday after arrival) but had to wait until the following Wednesday, I would have had the balancing complete by the Monday and had a week to do other small jobs, as it was I got the job finished, bit nothing else. First of all I fitted the ground floor vent terminals, this involved trimming the terminal ends level with the plasterboard Fitting the metal connecting terminal with the supplied Tek® Screws and inserting the terminal: Tek® Screws are a pig, you need to predrill the metal to use the effectively and I was using the builders impact driver Makita 18V LTX and it was still hard work. I locked all the terminals in the fully open position and inserted them, hold up and turn to lock in place, these are an update on the spring clip versions as apparently they don’t get a good seal, with the mechanically fixed base plate and a turn to lock valve they are more rigid, true but harder to install! Installed extract valve. Valve removed leaving housing Housing on adaptor. The first picture shows an installed extract terminal in the Airing Cupboard. The second one the metal connector plate (in the Dining Room) with the valve removed. The third one an adaptor plate attached to the duct terminal in a room that will have a suspended ceiling (tiles) so to be finished after all messy work, the duct terminal will be adjusted as required. Then I installed the FF terminals, I had help for this then access to the attic to connect up the external supply and exhaust ducts to the roof terminals, my builders had to cut 2 access holes in the plasterboard (attic already plastered) one to connect the FF supply duct (the attic has insulation between the rafters and below which follows the vertical chords of the attic trusses) so this duct has less insulation that the others but is still in the insulated area. The second to access the FF exhaust manifold, in the same area (but always planned) these will have insulated doors re-fitted. They also had to cut free the exhaust duct for the FF unit which the plasterers had plastered around, half covering (I ask you), ie 180mm circular duct with half the duct (a semicircle) inside plaster, half out! So I connected up the FF units and proceeded with that one, it made it easier accessing the manifolds before installing the GF ducts. We also had to build a small trestle to go over the FF exhaust duct to lie on to work in the exhaust manifold. Next, I fired up the FF unit and set the speed to 275m3/h, this was a challenge as the electrician had to make certain circuits live. In the CU the top Right is the lift (3-Phase) required for install T&C, the bottom 5 (left) are the MVHR and others on the circuit, 2 x downstairs power circuits and 2 others I don’t know and didn’t dig into. A lot of work still to be done there, but I had my power. The two MVHR units connected up (though the drains weren’t connected until Friday). I then did my initial measure, I have purchased a Testo 417 with hoods and UKAS calibration (belt and braces), whether I keep it or sell on, not sure yet. Initial readings gave a total extract of around 275m3/h but supply of nearly 375m3/h, so obviously my systems measure from the extract and just run the supply at the same speed, the calculation showed similar resistances for the system, so I had to adjust the system (use the imbalance) to even out the flows, initially I used a 100m3/h imbalance to even this out (reduced later on). I then proceeded to balance the terminals, as mine is the Ubbink system the balancing is done in the manifolds with restrictor rings, you have either no restrictor, or a restrictor with 0-12 rings removed (0 = max resistance, 12 = almost no restistance). The table below shows room, terminal, design flow rates, calculated restrictors and the final ones I ended up with. Design Flow Rate BR Min Initial Final Final Room m3/h l/s l/s Rings Removed m3/h Rings Removed m3/h l/s m3/h l/s en-suite 2 E1 45 12.5 8 6 6 23.0 6.39 48.6 13.5 en-suite 2 E2 6 6 25.6 7.11 en-suite 3 E3 45 12.5 8 6 6 24.1 6.69 51.3 14.3 en-suite 3 E4 5 6 27.2 7.56 Cistern E10 20 5.6 - - 12.0 3.33 12.0 3.3 Attic EA 25 6.9 6 10 - 22.9 6.36 22.9 6.4 A/C E5 25 6.9 6 5 5 27.9 7.75 27.9 7.8 Bathroom E6 45 12.5 8 4 4 24.2 6.72 48.8 13.6 Bathroom E7 4 4 24.6 6.83 mstr en-suite E8 50 13.9 8 7 7 27.9 7.75 54.7 15.2 mstr en-suite E9 6 6 26.8 7.44 Cistern E11 20 5.6 4 10 12.6 3.50 12.6 3.5 275 76.4 278.8 77.44 As you can see it was reasonably accurate. I had to reduce the resistance to the attic and one cistern and one other terminal, otherwise quite easy. So with the extract done I moved on to the Supply. Initially I went round and totaled up all the supplies and kept adjusting the imbalance until the total supply was about 275m3/h, which was around 70m3/h, then I set to work adjusting the flows: Design Flow Rate BR Min Initial Final Final Room m3/h l/s l/s Rings Removed m3/h Rings Removed m3/h l/s m3/h l/s Bed 2 S1 50 13.9 11 7 26.1 7.25 50.9 14.1 Bed 2 S2 9 6 24.8 6.89 Bed 3 S3 50 13.9 6 - 19.8 5.50 49.0 13.6 Bed 3 S4 5 6 29.2 8.11 Bed 4 S5 50 13.9 7 4 24.0 6.67 49.3 13.7 Bed 4 S6 6 4 25.3 7.03 Bed 5 S7 50 13.9 6 4 24.5 6.81 50.7 14.1 Bed 5 S8 7 5 26.2 7.28 Master Bed S9 50 13.9 - - 24.8 6.89 49.6 13.8 Master Bed S10 9 7 24.8 6.89 Attic SA 25 6.9 9 - 26.2 7.28 26.2 7.3 275 76.4 131.37 275.7 76.58 AS you can see the difference between calculation and actual is huge, take terminal S3, it has a relatively short run (compared to others) yet I had to remove all restriction and could only get 20m3/h, I balanced up the room with S4 but a total mystery. S1 was a significantly long run but require more restriction than calculated. I managed to balance up the system after several hours of too and frow, including slightly adjusting the imbalance to get the system set. The Ground floor was a similar experience, though with some terminals suspended in the air, the measuring hood neatly sealed over these so measurement was not an issue, and in fact I didn’t need a ladder to reach these ones so it made it easier. GF setting was 220m3/h (I actually set 225) and again the extract tallied up but the supply was about 40m3/h over so Imbalance require again. Design Flow Rate BR Min Initial Final Final Room m3/h l/s l/s Rings Removed m3/h Rings Removed m3/h l/s m3/h l/s Kitchen E1 80 22.2 13 - - 44.0 12.22 85.8 23.8 Kitchen E2 7 6 41.8 11.61 Laundry E6 50 13.9 8 4 6 26.6 7.39 50.7 14.1 Laundry E7 3 5 24.1 6.69 en-suite 1 E4 45 12.5 8 2 6 27.7 7.69 51.4 14.3 en-suite 1 E5 2 7 23.7 6.58 WC E3 25 6.9 6 3 5 26.1 7.25 26.1 7.3 Cistern E8 20 5.6 1 - 11.0 3.06 11.0 3.1 220 61.1 225.0 62.50 Again extract calculation and actual weren’t miles apart, except from I had to remove all restriction from the cistern extract, and subsequently most of the others to balance it out but relatively easy and logical. Design Flow Rate BR Min Initial Final Final Room m3/h l/s l/s Rings Removed m3/h Rings Removed m3/h l/s m3/h l/s Lounge (1) S1 50 13.9 9 4 25.7 7.14 51.8 14.4 Lounge (2) S2 7 - 26.1 7.25 Dining S3 30 8.4 - 3 30.1 8.36 30.1 8.4 Front Hall S8 25 6.9 9 3 26.2 7.28 26.2 7.3 Bed 1 (1) S6 45 12.5 6 12 22.1 6.14 45.6 12.7 Bed 1 (2) S7 6 0 23.5 6.53 Study 1 S5 35 9.7 12 1 35.8 9.94 35.8 9.9 Study 2 S4 35 9.7 - 2 36.1 10.03 36.1 10.0 220 61.1 131.37 225.6 62.67 Supply was another question, nearly a whole day to get this right: Study 2, the longest run yet only 2 rings removed, same for study 1. The Bedroom similar runs one with full restriction and one with almost none. The lounge S1 in longer than S2 though has more restriction required, nothing made sense, eventually balanced, but no rational explanation as to why. The only think I can think of (and this applies to the First Floor) the calculation programme works for the extract system, but for supply, the location of the duct on the manifold has a huge impact on the initial resistance and flow rates. Advice for balancing when doing this go for bold alterations in restriction, I kept nibbling on the GF and have ended up with lots of spare restrictors of various sizes, instead of a load of complete (new) ones. The final thing I did was remove all the vent terminals so the builders could fill in the larger holes and the painters get on with the final job.
  19. Hi, I spotted an opportunity to save money a while back and in areas where we are not using the space all the way to the roof I changed from PIR insulation between the rafters to rockwool above the ceiling. What I did not realise though was that the MVHR ducting has to be in an insulated space. So now we need to insulate the MCHR which loses almost the entire saving. The installers have recommended using 50mm foil backed insulation wrapped around the ducts. This is fine, but I wondered if in areas where the ducts are installed just above the roof trusses and the loft insulation was pushed under the duct work could be just add another layer of rockwool that covers the duct work? This would be a lot faster and cheaper, but there is more risk that bits of the duct aren't covered.
  20. Having recently replaced the filters in my MVHR unit, I'm pondering whether it would be worth fitted additional filters in the actual ductwork to do the majority of the filtration. Something like this: With an additional filter (lets assume its a fairly coarse one) there would be some pressure drop if I were to do this, which I could compensate for by increasing the fan speed. Any other thoughts?
  21. I've been asked by another self builder to have a look into why their heating bills are significantly higher than they expected. Part of the task will be checking the setting of their ASHP package (which is the same as mine). They also have the following MVHR unit A quick look through the manual indicates it has an inbuilt electrical heater, which immediately raises the possibility of settings being in conflict with the main UFH heating from the ASHP, but also some strange defaults for an MVHR. I'll know more when I've been and gone through the settings next week. I've not come across a rotary heat exchange MVHR before. Has anyone any experience of these / this unit and any particular advice / knowledge gleaned from experience?
  22. As I get ready to go to the next stage I need to prepare for MVHR testing but I am looking for collected advice: The regulations state that systems need to be “commissioned in accordance with a procedure approved by the Secretary of State.” (Regulations below): This is the Part L1(b): This is Part F1(2): Throughout it refers to procedure approved by the Secretary of State. From the Domestic Ventilation Compliance Guide Table 8 this is the approved procedure: This talks about UKAS accredited calibration. In the BSRIA guide there is details about calibration: After all that I have come up with the following: I need to use the approved methodology. The equipment need to be calibrated and in date. The calibration needs to be UKAS, and not just traceable. The calibration need to be volumetric not speed. 1 &2 easy, 3 and 4 not so. And comments advice.
  23. Would anyone be so kind as to post up a photo showing their MVHR installation? I'm trying to visualise how much space I'll need to allow for the unit, distribution boxes and ducting so that I know how much space I have left over for everything else. Thanks in advance
  24. le-cerveau

    MVHR Install

    I will write about the install of my MVHR system, as this is something I have done myself (with help). Theo house is being built by my contractor, supervised by my Architect and QS (who is the CDM). As I am remote from the location I can only watch what happens on CCTV. When I was last there the old house was standing and we had disconnected the services. 6 Months later, I have a new house, Weather tight shell, Windows and doors in, sarking and felt on, and tiles and PV being fitted. I am doing the MVHR as I couldn’t find a company to design and install what I wanted so I did it myself. Had a slot in the schedule for me to work and got on with it. Internally the team were completing first fix joinery (all the stud work). This was the two-man team who are always on site and are doing the majority of the work, the company bring in others when required, but the two in the house whilst I was there are my main team. My design: This is my layout as planned, 2 x Brink Renovent 400 Plus units, 4 x Ubbink AE 24 port distribution boxes, 180mm insulated duct and silencers for the main runs and 350m of AE48C duct, 50m of AE34C duct with all the associated connectors and fittings. A total of 36 outlets/terminals….. Suffice to say it is a lot of equipment. It arrived on 8 pallets at around 1100 on the Tuesday morning. I sourced all my equipment from CVC who were/are great, arranging delivery slots, supplying additional equipment quickly, and I still have an outstanding order for the vent terminals and some other bits still to complete. I arrived on the Monday lunchtime after 6 days of traveling (not all to get there) and had a meeting with the site manager and the first thing we agreed on was to board out the plant room with MDF (as a final finish) so that we could install the equipment and be done with it (rather than approximately place it and then remove awaiting final plastering) This turned out to be one of the best decisions as work could be finalized and other trades could also finish work in there (First fix electrical could fit the 24 way 3 phase CU)… We also got the loft boarded out at this point to enable the first floor runs to be completed. On Tuesday morning the building team started boarding the plant room, starting on the wall that the MVHR units were to be sited as a priority, this was completed by the end of the day and then started on the attic boards. Once the delivery had arrived and I had checked it I had some initial work to do. First to install the acoustic insulation into the distribution boxes and trim the spigots to the 180mm mark and move 2 of them to the top for the ground floor. I the attached the first 2 silencers to the top mounted distribution boxes (Large jubilee clips (44-217mm) work perfectly). These would then be mounted against the ceiling with the silencers running up into the plant room. (the first floor is 250mm concrete planks and I am having a suspended ceiling to put all the services in). This is where having a builder with all the equipment to hand come in handy. One of the team then worked with me, the manifolds were fixed to the ceiling, simple concrete screws direct into the planks and then we started on the ground floor ducting. (I had pre calculated what ducts from what rolls, but that got altered on the fly when we had longer lengths remaining) The duct was run through the stud work and fixed approximately every 2 meters either with wood screws to the stud work or concrete screws to the ceiling. Rather than buying the Ubbink fixings £15.42 for 10, I used builders band £10.00 for 10m and plumbers felt £10.00 for 20m (you can probably get it cheaper) as the fixings. The above shows the 2 ground floor manifolds and you can see how the builders band and felt was used. We got most of the ground floor ducting done in one afternoon. The terminals were left dangling with about 1m to the previous fixing to allow them to be positioned by the plasterers when the fit the suspended ceiling as they will be positioned either in the centre of a ceiling tile or plasterboard (room dependent). Wednesday started out installing the MVHR units as the main ducts needed to be installed before the attic runs could be done, this also allowed time to continue boarding out the attic. The first unit was positioned on the wall and to support it extra noggins were installed behind the wall, easy when the stud work is still open: We mounted the second MVHR unit then measured and marked out the penetrations for the ceiling. Then the builders simply took down the ceiling boards, cut them out and put them, back up. The ducts then had a perfectly snug fit through the ceiling. The two silencers going into the attic had to be slightly compressed oval to fit due to a double joist. Images of the plant room with the MVHR units fitted. (already painted) Fitting the attic manifolds was a little more complicated, the supply manifold went as planned Here you can see the 2 x 90-degree bends attached to the silencer going into the manifold and all the ducts coming off. The exhaust manifold wouldn’t go in as planned and had to be rotated 90-degrees to fit between the truss webs, fortunately I had plenty of 180mm 90-degree bends for the final connections. Exhaust from below and side (one duct moved between pictures). All the exhaust ducts were relatively easy to run (crawling through the webs). 7 of the supply runs had to cross the attic and not wanting ducts in the main storage area, these were turned down to run along the joist space. On the supply manifold you can see 5 of the 90-degree elbows turning then down and below the left 3 (2 from the side and one of the front ) look like this from below: This was the plan, but on the far side as the came up beyond the truss webs (non-boarded area) I didn’t use the 90-degree bends on the far end just curved them into place. You can see the runs under the attic boards (incomplete) and moving off to the respective locations. By Thursday we had installed all the ducts and terminals (so 3 days with a builder and all the tools). We then decided to fix the first-floor terminals into their final positions (just plasterboard for first floor) so either screwing/banding them to rafters, screwing to the attic boards where available, or inserting small offcuts to attach them to. The decision was made to paint out the plant room so we removed the MVHR units and ducts, bagged the ground floor ducts and the builders sanded and filled all the screws. It was painted on the Friday (advantages of a builder and his contacts). During the week I realised I needed to order some extra circlips (not easy to get large ones) so I ordered them via CVC and also my RH sensors which were quickly delivered. I installed these into the units (whilst dismounted) not an easy task, very fiddly and not to be recommended on a unit that is already installed. And the sensor heads into a short length of 180mm insulated duct. On the ground floor units we had a short length connecting the silencer to the MVHR unit, but one was not planned for the first floor ones, however as the silencers are flexible and compressible I inserted a short length on top of the House supply and exhaust connectors for this purpose and inserted the sensor there. Sensors installed in insulated ducting (simply tie wrapped into place) I then just had to wait for my final delivery. I am planning to plumb my cisterns into the MVHR (Se the previous blog entry) however since then @Auchlossen has done a similar utilising 75mm ducting so I decided to go down that route (hence the roll of 75mm (AE34C) ducting) I did use it for some runs. I ordered 3 x OsmaSoil 3S094G 82mm Reducer to 50mm Grey 860749 to fit over the 75mm ducting and convert it to 50mm plumbing push fit. The plumber will do the rest as detailed in the previous blog. These fit almost perfectly. The first picture shoes one pushed up to the seal, the second one shoes one pushed onto the seal. They are very tight with the seal but will push on and make a good airtight fit. As part of my initial plan I purchased a HB vent terminal for experimentation, just to prove that these systems are interchangeable I fitted an offcut of 92mm (AE48C) duct into the HB terminal, no problem. So, when the question comes up can you mix and match, yes (within reason). On issue I see with the HB equipment is I am not sure how easy it is to unclip the terminals once in place as there does not seem to be a way to easily und the locking lugs. On the Ubbink equipment you can unlick them by twisting the red click ring until it disengages and then remove the duct! The roofers are currently slating the roof and will fit my vent terminals in the appropriate positions with a 500mm length of duct to protrude through the roof insulation. These will then be connected up to the MVHR ducts when a come back to do the final commissioning, fit outlet terminals and balance the system. (next year).
  25. Just spent the last two days install the pipe work and some of the plenums for the mvhr system. Definitely not a job to tackle on your own! Feeding the pipe, or 50m red python, through posijoists and holes in floors is a fiddle to say the least, towards the end finding a route for the 19th pipe was a challenge... What amazed me most was the toll on our drills! Lots of 79mm holes to be drilled through floors and joists, but did not expect three, yes three, makita 18v drills to start smoking and subsequently fail, all were of a 2014 vintage. Clearly not a good year... Generally I have found their 18v range of tools excellent, but surprised at this failure rate. Did not feel we were abusing them, very gingerly using the fourth at the end, as need to complete the task and get the insulation in before plasterboarding commences.. Heyho, on the grand scale not horrendous.