gc100

Members
  • Content Count

    363
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

61 Good

About gc100

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Recent Profile Visitors

729 profile views
  1. Thanks @nod - are you in the trade I presume? Are you using epoxy grouts? In your experience do you ever get any tile lifting after a period? Regarding the jointing - I fear that might be too late. The kitchen is about 6m by 8m - I didn't put an expansion joint in there after I read this https://www.schluter.co.uk/where-should-movement-joints-be-fitted.aspx and thought we should just about be ok. Perhaps I should of in your experience? I have on at the doorway where it goes into the hallway. The hallway is 1m x 14m and I did consider putting one half way down, but as we have wood tile effect tiles it would of looked pretty terrible and the builders convinced me 'it would be all right'. We've got about 5-10mm under the skirting board depending where it is and the cut. Edited to add: they are porcelain tiles as well. Many thanks
  2. So I'm into tiling my house and I've got several concerns. Due to timelines and wanting to keep things moving as quick as possible, we laid the tiles in the kitchen area over a week, then after a whole day rest, we then grouted so the kitchen install to start. I have several worries: Now my concern is that have chosen to use epoxy grout throughout the house for more easy maintenance, and cleaning etc. However my worry is that I put that in too quickly, given there was a few rows of tiles that had only be down at most 36 hours or so. Epoxy grout is basically waterproof and I'm concerned the cement base adhesive won't dry out. If my understanding is correct, it should cure ok (as this is a chemical process), but it my not dry out or take a very very long time. My worry is that the tiles may lift later down the road. They are ceramic tiles but they have a very hard/waterproof glaze on the surface. My second concern around this is how quickly I turn on the UFH after and ramp up given the above situation. We was pushing hard to get in for xmas (which is doable),but if the adhesive is not 100% cured/dried... In our bathroom we have a wetroom and we had to put a new section of screed down in the shower to get the gradient correct. Its about 50-60mm thick and was laid on the 15th Oct. Given the recommendation for drying times is 1mm per day for first 30mm and 1mm per 2 thereafter I'm calculating it won't be fully dry until end of this year. If we are to be in for xmas I need to start laying tiles on that in the next week or so. Am I going to end up in trouble if I start laying tiles next week? It will be wetroom tanked with Bal as well. Any advise would be most welcome. I fear I might need to resign to the fact we won't be in for xmas which will be a big disappointment for the family and myself. However I don't want to ruin the build by rushing the last few weeks . Edited to add: we are also using Ditra decoupling matting.
  3. Given the cooler weather I’m wondering if I should completely turn off the UFH for tiling the floors or set it to something like 14. My thinking is at 14 there will be less expansion when heating the house up back to 21 when all done. However I’m worried about adhesive drying too quickly. Google only suggests one result saying max of 15 and another saying UFH off but above 5 Whats the recommendation? Thansk
  4. I cannot really share the supplier due to discounts applied, but its a national trade electricial supplies company. There aren't that many! Just get your electrician to phone around. I think I'll be going 8K as per Joth logic about getting a batteries down the road.
  5. Regarding install time. Yes I don't know exactly how long it would take, but I would probably put that panels up myself and just get the sparky to guide/do the electrics. I'll ask him how long but I'm sure he said a couple of days the first time we discussed (though that might of been a 4K in his head). I already have the cable and can get less expensive clams than on this quote. The lower roof line is very low and easy to get (2.5m) to either by the hand yougman scaffold or just a simple ladder. Yes we have permission. I feel no believes me so here's the 8K quote from the supplier.
  6. thanks ProDave. I have the official Ok from the DNO for up to 8K so thats all sorted.
  7. As per first post. Supply + electrician time to install (2 days max ~£400). Don't want to add later as you loose the price of the inverter. Yes but too expensive for me and I can't justify personally. I can 'loose' 3K in the cost of my build and have the good feeling of consuming some energy I generate. But an additional £10K is too much for me.
  8. So I'm getting towards the end of my build and I want to make a decision on how much solar/PV to install. My quotes are: 4K ~£1700 6K ~£2500 8K ~£3100 + electricians time to install. My main point for me is to consume 'green' energy vs saving money *I don't want to go in to the argument of either of those points! Until I've lived there for 12 months I'm not going to know my consumption. However I want to buy now as part of the house build so I can get the VAT back. I have no idea really which on to go for. I don't want to go say for the 4 and then 12/24 months later add to this as I will need another inverter which is a significant part of the cost. Anyone else had the same situation? FYI it a 3 bed house, single story, 160m2 , vaulted ceilings throughout, reasonably airtight and insulated. 4 people, 2 working from home, ASHP, MVHR - electric everything (not a car yet though!)
  9. I made a mistake . 8K system quote is £3K + VAT if applicabke + Electricians time to install. Sorry!
  10. The builder is doing it, and no he doesn't guarantee (i'm paying day rate).
  11. Hi Nick, Yes we mechanically abraded it all . Is the purpose of the thermal shock it make any would-be-cracks appear? Or is it something else?
  12. Hi, My anhydrite based flow screed has been down for since 22 of May and is about 50mm so should be fully dry now (its also had a constant breeze flowing). Due to various schedules I cannot get the UFH commissioned until towards the end of Oct and we want to start putting tiles down well before. Reading online its seems its alway recommended to do a round of heating (and cooling) of the floor before installing however given my timelines this isn't really possible. I'm now planning to use Ditra decoupling matting to held alleviate any heating cracks. Has anyone done this or am I just asking for a lot of trouble?
  13. One of the mats I was looking at said 0.7mm so maybe doable?? https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/kerakoll-biotex-reinforced-anti-cracking-membrane--was-idrobuild--50m-roll I could ramp it up as I move away from the windows but would be difficult to pull off perhaps
  14. Just picking this thread up. My builders have not allowed for a decoupling mat. Now my issue is I have some very large slider windows which have a level threshold with the tile floor and you actually tile in-between the runner for the sliders. Now they have only left 15mm between the anhydrite flow screed and this level. Given the tiles are 10mm, I'm struggling to see how I can fit a matt without the tiles sitting high relative to this threshold? The whole point was to have a seamless level out into the garden with matching tiles. The screed is one large slab pretty much aside from one side of the hallway which above structurally holds the roof up. It seems from what I understand you need 4-5mm adhesive , then the matt, then another 4-5 adhesive effectively doubling the thickness? Is there anything I can do, aside paying the window company to company back and take all the windows out and enlarge my openings?... Tiling wise I have a room which is about 6mx7m which has the sliders, leading to a hall that is 24mx 1m, then a couple of bathrooms and util all on the same single floor (only have one!)