Russell griffiths

Ah ha, upstairs for thinking down stairs for dancing. Vaulted ceiling in garage for extra headroom.

I would say check all you service connection costs. Without meaning to be rude, that is a very small piece of land, so a very small house, so not the highest value, if you suddenly find it will cost £5000 to connect water, £12000 for electricity and £10000 for sewage connection then that could stop the project dead straight away. Do not proceed any further than a couple of grand deposit without checking these things, better to loose a couple of grand than buy something that can never be built. Remember the council might grant planning consent but that doesn’t mean it is actually possible to build it.

Afternoon all. I have an attached garage fixed to the side of the new house, I wanted your opinion on the plasterboard for the ceiling of the garage, although it is attached there are no habitable rooms above the garage. See technical drawing.

You only use foil tape on foil boards, as long as it’s an air tight tape it’s fine, you could use sellotape if it would stick.

You will find if you don’t tie it and a fat bloke stands on one piece it can kick the end up causing it to be too close to the surface tie it loads so it acts as one big sheet.

I would go with 100mm rockwool and then battens and plasterboard how tall are you?

I think the finish and colour is a bit immaterial really, when you put it up on the roof they all look very similar. Its just how dark you go, light grey through to black. Unless your really out there and go green or blue. I got got a few samples of roof sheets and did my own testing. I basically threw the sheets on the floor and jumped up and down on them, I then left them out in the rain to see what happened. A bit unconventional but hey ho, I worked out that I hated the aluminium. Too thin dented easily. So i would pick the base material and the coating if any, then the colour

Look up level 5 finish, you can skim the whole board with the product you do the joints with, spray or roller it on and finish with a wide skimming blade.

With the zinc roof, it doesn’t need to be zinc to look like zinc, the planners wouldn’t know the difference in any of the materials, send them in samples and get it signed off, lots of cheaper alternatives at half the price.

Pull out larders are a problem just waiting to happen, they get overloaded and door misalignment happens as soon as you load them. Avoid.

Go with a timberframe manufacturer who will deliver a guaranteed airtight structure, you will have this at a fixed cost. Then the only variation will be the fit out, no surprises that your build method suddenly isn’t as good as you wanted with expensive additional stuff needed.

Top of door. Is there room to lift it up.

Why, do you have a gap at the top? Undo the fixing screws, cut the sealant, get 4-6 of those blow up window lifters, pump it up and re secure it. Its not like you nedde to lift it out, the hard bit is already done. Man up ya big girl.

Lift the door up. .......?.?????

You should include a vapour control layer under your ceiling, then a service batten then boards, don’t rely on boards and plaster to be air tight. You can get lots of lights that will fit in this 25mm void so you don’t puncture the vcl.

Look at getting it removed, a lot of covenants are easy enough to remove.

Thanks all, got the usual suspects doing drawings I just wanted to have a play myself.

Did anybody do a kitchen design yourselves, looking for a programme or app. Ta very much.

How about borrow as much as you can against the cottage, then buy a mobile home move out of the cottage and turn it into a holiday let, will give a good income for the future.

I would look at a brush or spray on liquid. Tapes are very time consuming. I used a brush on product called blowerproof.

Condensation is funny stuff. When I put mine on I had sheets just sat on the roof not fixed, you would think that the temperature was the same on the top of the sheet and the underneath, so how come when you pick a sheet up the underside is dripping in condensation, it can only be 1-2 degrees warmer on the underside.

Woodcrete blocks as the finish inside. Sorry @Andy H that’s the funniest thing I’ve heard this year. If you accidentally fall against it you will be going to A+E for a skin graft. I cannot see why you would use waterproof concrete in woodcrete either, the block structure is such that the concrete ISN'T a continuous pour of concrete, it is a lattice work of concrete full of voids and gaps every time a block starts or stops.

I wasn’t to keen on any of the designed systems so included the eye watering cost of one of those fancy membranes with the plastic fibres all over them to allow condensation to drain away.

You seam a bit mixed up with this, how can you consider making the roof rafters smaller with the high load from a green roof, the roof loading will be higher than normal. Im afraid I don’t like the design at all, green roof is pointless, gutter details are a disaster waiting to happen, leaf debris building up will lead to the gutter no working correctly and water getting into the structure. Nope, not for me I’m afraid.

But remember you said it was cheap ??