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About puntloos

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  1. Absolutely. I'm not going with my suspicions here, I'm trying to somewhat wrap my head around the challenges and figure out how to find specialists that understand the same.
  2. Ha thanks, I'm not too concerned about the calculations, I'm more thinking about the expertise needed to use dual-purpose ducts. Or are people overselling the difficulty for a decently skilled heating team to do this?
  3. Oh absolutely not, I was just thinking to put most of my 'plant' in the loft, and put outside units "close to it", for example I have a flat-ish roof so perhaps I can just put it there? I suspect, I would love to hear about anyone who thinks they can do this 😃 Clearly dual-purposing "air pipes" for both trickle-mode as well as power-mode seems like an amazing solution, but indeed if most people don't know how to do this properly I could imagine it being a can of worms... Yes absolutely planning to use MVHR but as people above said it seems the expertise might not exist in UK? Suggestions? 😃
  4. To be clear I fully intend to also provision for the "inside-to-outside" link for a classic A2A. Indeed something like copper pipes etc. Not thinking of a "dual (air) hose" device And you're right they also should be put in during construction. But currently I'm primarly thinking about how to get cooled air from the device (in the loft) to the actual rooms.
  5. In my case though I still am designing a house from scratch, so dimensioning in a few ducts is fairly light on cost, no? I have the impression "10cm" pipes might be sufficient for a low-ish flow of cooling? "enough".... to be clear I do indeed intend to go for an ASHP that indeed is reversible, but well, as we all know the #1 sad story here on buildhub seems to be 'my super well designed passivhaus is too hot". Presumably most of these people do still have a cooling ASHP, so unless the cost of some piping ('cost' can include sacrificing house space by increasing void width) really is unreasonable I'm thinking of creating this 'Plan B'
  6. I'm sure most "properly done" passivhauses will never ever need air conditioning, but since we are building a house from scratch, and you know, maybe climate change will give us particularly nasty firestorms in 2040, we are planning to at least install some basic air conditioning ducting rather than regret not doing it, and buy an AC if we find we need it because perhaps our PHPP calcs were off, and the ASHP doesn't cool (enough) either etc etc.. You get the idea. As such, assuming indeed a slightly-out-of-spec passivhaus of 300sqm, how big does an aircon and the associated ducting need to be? I'm in particular looking to understand how large the ducts are that have to go into the walls,. so an answer such as "You minimum need a 1-ton cooling system, with 15cm duct diameter" would be helpful -
  7. Yeah the massive flexizone is overkill - I guess 24cm is fine-ish with the full pan diameter being 30 (at the top.. i think, so the base is probably pretty close to 25). I think my rings are 15cm. Result: Not the end of the world but annoying, not just with the pan but also while cooking.
  8. Starts to add up, yes Ah I'll just build a large compost and manure mulching device in the front garden to really show my green cred!
  9. Thanks all, I guess I've just never been exposed to a modern induction hob Good to hear that some of them heat large areas, not just a hot-spot.
  10. So far, I've only encountered induction hobs whose actual heating rings are perhaps 10-15cm diameter. My largest pans are 30cm or such, which means that even though they claim to be heatspreading, food gets heated very unevenly, with anything in the center cooking (and then blackening) much faster than the rest. Does anyone have an induction hob where one-or-more of their burners actually is 30-ish cm? Or is that a physical impossibility somehow?
  11. Yes true, the US apparently uses some weird asphalt thing, where in the UK slate or tiles are 'reasonably priced' I guess. At the end of the day I don't care for brand, but it should be somehow standardized so it's not too unfriendly to other brands or mixing with standard tiles should these fail.
  12. Indeed, I wonder where they fall cost-wise, and mildly concerned what happens if they go out of business.
  13. Can you remind me, does the lack of approval mean I can't get the 10yr building (NHBC style) warranty? Ive reached out to Tesla but indeed I fear it will be too late for me, would need them in Aug timeframe..
  14. Tesla just announced their 'v3' roof tiling system, and they are claiming that the cost-per-watt and cost-per-roof outstrips comparable tile+PVPanel setups. Also of course they look more elegant. Does anyone know any actual roofing companies supplying Tesla, or similar style(?) PV tiles? Cost vs panels? Downsides? https://electrek.co/2019/10/27/tesla-solar-roof-v3-quote-price-decrease/ say that a 1860sqft (172sqm) v3 roof costs about 55000 USD, which includes the storage battery, and is rated at 9.45kW. A standard domestic 4kWp system will cost around £6,000, but with tesla you get a 'free roof(tiles)' of course.
  15. I looked at the manual again, no luck. I don't think the function exists - at least not in 'basic settings' etc (which is already super dodgy going into C10 mode etc etc)