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About puntloos

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  1. Still mulling over whether to build or not (we are progressing as normal, tendering comes next). One question came up: (with obv. just simple calculation values..) If a plot's planning permission and full detail would create a 150m2 detached house that would be worth about 1M pounds in current market, how much would a builder be willing to pay for that plot (incl stamp duty etc) + design? Normally, a builder tends to charge an end user say 2000/sqm in this area- so build cost would be 300,000, which means that presumably the builder would 'break even' at 700,000 for the plot+design.. but of course there's various risks involved that I might not be thinking through, size of the job, how busy you are etc.. So if you were a builder, what's your best offer for my theoretical house, and what things to you factor into that choice?
  2. Let's just say I have two 1000W subwoofers and a 3 year old toddler. (who will be 12 in no time..) I was debating the "horizontal service void" idea people mentioned elsewhere but I think it'll impact the wall too negatively. But of course(?) I'll be inserting a lot of ducting etc pre-emptively. Should be okay? Interesting, no load bearing walls though. How would you build up a good load bearing one? Well, the thing is - I want "good sound isolation", however the room itself should stay "normal". I don't want to create some cinema (dead room) that sounds very unnatural for normal living. I'd like a "as neutral as possible" wall (so not really reflecting a ton) that does What's the reg? Between walls? Or external? What's "chasing"? (sorry hard to google since it's a generic word) Ha, same doc.. but again not "load bearing"
  3. Re-highlighting this for a moment.. I'm still thinking something in the direction of: soundbloc plasterboard (15mm) block(75mm) vertical battens w/ rockwool (25mm) block(75mm) soundbloc (15mm) Sounds... fairly soundproof at 205mm no? Or did I miss something But: - How would you insert the horizontal service void, just cut it out of the soundbloc? Or trying to scrape it into the block? DOesn't have to be massively deep I imagine..
  4. Same situation. I suspect there is some core truth to that "at list price" the german kitchens of well known manufacturers are better than the UK ones, but once you get into the actual prices you can achieve with UK discounts, crappy sales tactics and buy 2 for 1, get somewhat lucky with the actual installer team and etc etc, you will be able to reach a similar, perhaps even better value for money. And German installers don't stray too far from list prices I don't think. German kitchens seem a 'safer bet', but if you know what you want, and the particular 'thing' you want is somewhat straightforward you can save some on going UK. Current gut feel, take it for what you will.
  5. I was surprised that even siematic is using chipboard (by default, I think MDF/solid are optinos). Of course there are different quality levels but still, dip it in water and it'll 'melt'..
  6. Yep. Interesting factoid. OK, I guess I'll stick with inward then. Yeah that was what I was 'suspecting' but having zero actual experience... Sorry you have nonzero actual experience
  7. 5065x2945 internal usable surface.
  8. Cool, I'm not a builder so I have no idea if there are any "hidden snags" that I'm not aware of. Does drilling into an 'unprepped' doorframe hurt the insulation, does the door fit so tightly you can never make it work if you try to mirror it.. etc it indeed sounds straightforward but things can turn nasty
  9. The door to my garage currently goes into the kitchen, and given the garage is outside the thermal envelope, I assume the door has to be built 'very well', sealing properly, insulated etc. But.. We don't tend to put a car in the garage anyway, so the garage door "banging into the car" is not a thing yet. It might make more sense to have the door open 'outward'. Q: When the mood strikes and I buy me a car I care about getting stolen (or more likely: a future buyer of the house has one), would it be 'doable' to reverse that garage door? Obv not expecting it to be super straightforward but can a professional do it properly without having to knock out the entire wall or cause other wanton destruction?
  10. Good question and my answer is only half-baked (not checked against 'reality').. I was planning to allow it to open, and I put in electrochromic ('smart glass') in this direction: https://www.iqglassuk.com/products/invisio-thermally-broken-rooflight/s53537/ Do you have any suggestions? 😃
  11. Yeah, definitely not doing that. (it also seems moderately stupid to go on a slightly sloped roof with no barrier to stop, well, death. ) I've never had much faith in self cleaning glass but perhaps it would be sufficient.. Regardless, the flat section of the roof probably needs 1-2 skylights anyway so I figured allowing them to open enough to actually allow professionals to climb through might not be a bad idea. But as you said, for the few times that's needed it would be okay to pay the extra cost to get some 'device' to go up there.
  12. No, I definitely did! But to be clear if I were ever to open the roof to 'the public' it would have to be as secure as any other dangerous fall, so with full railings etc. My question elsewhere - Stuff on top of a house pertained to if I would be allowed to put railings that would exceed the allowed ridge height. GIven that that answer was 'no'(without add'l planning permission) I only want a roof access for cleaning purposes and a very secure lock. I doubt I'd even dare go on it myself.
  13. Well, to be clear the only idea 'for now' is to be able to access the roof to e.g. clean the roof light. Would that not be allowed? Clearly it's dangerous to go on any roof by using a ladder from the outside since you could jump off if so inclined. Why would 'inside ladders' be any different?
  14. Interesting detail. Since I probably will have them recessed somewhat into the roof I'll have to see how that works.
  15. For PV I guess it makes sense, if it were to stick out that would 'effectively' increase that height. For e.g. a thin antenna I'd be surprised if people would make a stink. (not that I plan an antenna.)