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puntloos

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puntloos last won the day on September 1 2022

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  1. Are you serious?🤨 - I could imagine this is actually true but I'm wondering if that really is the only solution? Plus, surely a plastic pipe works better because it doesn't carry the cold of the water as easily as the metal, but metal wrapped in insulation would then also work?
  2. Our mains water is carried into the house by a sizeable metal pipe that comes out under our utility sink in garage, and then goes into the rest of the house (a lot of plumbing, eg softener, pressure, DHW is understair in the adjacent hallway) Previously, the plumbers left the metal pipes uninsulated and they dripped quite a bit of condensate into the utility sink cabinet. Today, they 'fixed it' by wrapping the big pipe in some insulation. Admittedly the dripping seems less, but I'm not quite sure if this is reasonable? Not a plumber if that wasn't clear, but I would've expected maybe a dedicated condensate drain approach. That said, I guess it might be hard to wrap the entire pipe run (until where? the pressure cyl?) in such a condensate drain system? How is this normally handled? Or is just insulating these pipes sufficient?
  3. Getting back to this in a bit of a different slant - we would like to have a rug in our livingroom, but indeed the 'tog' struggle is real. Even more than with carpets, very few 'rug makers' mention it at all. A lot of websites claim that natural materials are lower tog, but I don't really see why this would be. It might be a worthwhile rule of thumb if people don't know, but in the end you probably want the real measurement rather than a handwave. Secondly, anyone have any experience with converting a carpet into a rug? Are there local tailors or carpet teams that are able to do this?
  4. As you might be aware, most passivhaus internal doors leave a decent strip of air gap below them, for ventilation reasons. But my telescopic pocket door from eclisse is taking this to a bit of an extreme - when 'closed' there is a 20mm gap between the door planks (not even mentioning near the floor) Is there anything we can do here? Maybe some 'strip' system at the far front of door 1 and far back of door 2: Or will this not structurally improve things because there are too many other air gaps? Frankly I'm surprised these doors are designed in such an 'open' way..
  5. @Dan F - pretty sure it's coming from the strip, not the driver (drivers are in another room) Drivers: http://www.ltechonline.com/html/en/Dimmable-LED-Driver/DALI-Series/Constant-Voltage-DALI-Dimmable-Driver/LM-240-24-G2D2.html Strip: https://www.darklightdesign.com/dld-lightflow-24v-10w-dim-to-warm-linear-led-tape/
  6. So some, but not all of my dimmable (dali) white spectrum (warm-cool) led strips make a very annoying squealing noise when they hit a certain level of dimming. I actually used a phone spectrum analyser app to record it, and then turn it off and on top part is real frequency, you can see the marked peak, 3000-ish hz, probably not a coincidence that the dimmer is also using that frequency for PWM bottom part is the 'history' and you can see when I turn the lights off the line disappears, turn it on, there it is. Anyone run into this before and how can I handle this?
  7. Maybe I shouldn't worry too much about the smaller slot size.. people tend to fold a4, maybe not a huge deal (plus how many a4 letters do I get per year..)
  8. This seems like such an obvious thing, A4 letters are 21x29.7cm but most mailboxes might hold them but the slots are smaller, eg: Why can I not find mailboxes with a 21cm slot? Or is this actually not a problem in reality? bonus: I would love a mailbox with an anti-theft lip, that prevents people bending their fingers into the box and grabbing mail.
  9. Well, that's certainly an option, but trying to figure out if it's needed.
  10. A question about moving. My current house insurance is (to my read) only insuring my house contents while they are actually, well, in the house. (some exceptions like laptops noted). So - when moving from home A to home B, I wanted to know if typically insurances cover this, to what degree, or, if there are specific insurances I can add? 1- From a mover picking up a thing 2- Carrying it up to the house treshold 3- Into the van and on the road 4- Carrying it across the new house treshold 5- Putting it down Am I correct that if I buy insurance for my new home (and starting it sufficiently long before the move) then I would be insured for items 1,2,4,5? Or is "a random dude packing up the item and carrying it" usually excluded from insurance already? Any way for me to cover myself properly?
  11. Nope, that's not how it works, at least not in my home. The inverter can provide AC of course but a full grid failure requires a deliberate switch at the main grid connection which is a auto EPS device. But what about my antique kettle collection? Or a 22kw 3 phase car charger. Not to mention that no consumer level inverter I've seen can deliver more than 5-10kw (mine does 7) out of their EPS port. End of the day, I think forcing a few dumber devices such as a kettle (ok I only have one), coffee machine, hob etc, off by default might make sense, but it does add a good layer of complexity, where as others have pointed out, most devices will not happily resume their 'powered work' if they get reconnected to power.
  12. Hi all, question: Do you have any appliances (oven? dishwasher?) that will continue their job after a power cut is restored without any prompting? I think most devices will do nothing, or wait for a 'resume' command, but a washing machine might want to immediately(?) drain the water out? Of course a classic kettle, toaster, coffeemaker will immediately resume as long as the button is pressed down, but I think most modern devices won't spontaneously continue? Or am I wrong? Context: if my house switches to battery power, I don't want random things to unneccessarily drain my battery. Also, having too many power hungry devices on my battery might cause the battery to shut down.
  13. I'm one of those guys who doesn't do "colour names" - but yes what I call beige might be warm grey or etc. This might be the one: https://www.architonic.com/en/product/refin-sublime-beige/20729582 (on the purchase order it's called "sublime matt")
  14. Correct. Fair enough, I guess that's one thing to add to the tile choice mishap, although the tiles in our master ensuite worked much nicer. I might take a few pictures with the various options but I basically have the full spectrum available between 2500 and 4000 I believe. I believe the tiles are there already but I'm not 100% sure. This is what we designed/hoped for: I don't quite recall why we picked different wall tiles from our master ensuite, since they are a good match, but as said before we were certainly aiming for the same effect.
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