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puntloos

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puntloos last won the day on September 1 2022

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  1. Basically, yes. I would say easyPV was a waste of my time, because you can't get things accurate enough to be both sure you put a "sensible maximum" of panels on your roof as well as not overdimension and suddenly have over-paneled or miscalculated. I did some table/spreadsheet a while ago with the panel sizes and worked out the power, one thing I can say is that 95% of panels in a particular "year" have equal power-per-m2 so the size/form factor doesn't really matter, and therefore more expensive panels do not give you more power.
  2. Sadly I think the underlying clay will have a different opinion on that one...
  3. Just a quick update, I had a garden guy over (not really an 'architect') but to his understanding patios should be angled away from the house and 'into the grass'. Of course with my grass being on top of pretty serious clay he wasn't 100% sure. My contractor says they did a "1:80" slope (which is 1.25 percent) away from the patio, but as far as I can tell at best it's flat. So I am certainly still confused. The patio is porcelain tiles though so it wouldn't be a huge problem with eg weeds/fungus taking hold.
  4. Sorry for the long delay, but to answer your question, my home is pretty smart with Loxone as the central brain. It's interfaced with my (solax) inverter so I know when I have excess power. Secondly it allows me to directly control heating (A2A, A2W ASHPs, including which FCUs should aim for which temperature, which UFH zones should heat or cool). My car charger is also loxone, so if I have excess power I have the option of cooling/heating my underfloor (and I have concrete floors so good thermal mass), export to grid, or put power into my car battery. I am still somewhat struggling to wrap my head around what's the best to do with excess power. I find myself mulling over @Nick Thomas point: This seems to certainly be true. So to make that a bit more explicit: Peak: 16:00-19:00 - Avoid importing - Easy, normally, even on gloomy days. - Export everything I can - 23.63p gained. -> Arguably, fully emptying my battery into export might make sense because importing it during day rate is cheaper (23.08). I don't have that level of control on my inverter I think. -> Similarly, not charging my battery during peak might make sense. (noting the above to not have to import during peak) Flux: 02:00-05:00 - Do everything that can be done. -> Wash laundry, wash dishes, heat hot water, heat/cool slab, charge car. All other times: - Charge battery if possible - Do normal things I guess I'll have to take a look at my inverter to see if I can tell it to do the above.
  5. Ping? 😃 sorry but the last question is quite important since I might have a difficult discussion with my builder: Is it reasonable for me to expect a 2% slope patio or should this have been agreed previously?
  6. OK, managed to use the spirit level app @Nick Thomas suggested. Took me a minute to realise that I didn't look for 2 degree angle but 2 percent slope. (which is, if you're using a 1m measuring stick, about 1.2 degree) To be clear though - if a patio is not 2%ish slope, would you all consider it poorly designed and/or something I can complain about? My result is as I expected which is that my patio is pretty much flat, maybe 0.5% slope at best..
  7. But to be clear - this is the wrong way.. the bubble is slightly 'toward' the drain, so the slight fall is towards the grass. (which is on pretty solid clay sadly so it soaks the grass)
  8. That's a great tip. Easy to do. Will figure it out. It's certainly better now, but agreed there's still some dust and grime but not really "mountains" of it. If anything the tiles are angled away from the drain:
  9. Cheers, but the challenge is more to measure what the actual angle is. I think you can't tell from a spirit level if it's 1% or 3%? Or is there a way to semi-accurately eyeball this with a spirit level? And so I take it indeed I should expect 2% slope else I can say they didn't do a good job?
  10. My current patio keeps standing water, even though there's a french drain next to it. Does this mean the tilers didn't put down an appropriate angle? A "random video" online tells me that for proper draining you need at least 2%, so 2cm per 100cm? Or is it not standard to angle outdoor tiles a little? What's an accurate way to measure the drain angle of the patio? Or can I just from this picture claim the patio isn't angled appropriately? (for what it's worth the scaffolding planks might've stopped some of the potential draining, although I imagine water would find a good way around it?)
  11. Certainly a fair point - of course I don't know what losses are involved when importing/exporting. Is a kwh exported truly a kwh? Assuming 25p important and export, is the grid a 'temporal' battery? I suppose in the end it is all about losses. If you keep your house "closed" and any losses are at least as good as they get through your amazing airtightness and U-values then it doesn't matter too much when you put it into the house. My problem is that if anything my house is overheating somewhat so cooling in summer doesn't seem like a terrible idea.
  12. Ah but if you're a finnicky posh human then of course 0.3C above 25C is an _outrage_
  13. Ah but the point is, I already have AC in those rooms, my question is if it's "thermally helpful" to cool it. As in, is any cooling I put into that room (at 300% efficiency) more value for my kwh than seling it to octopus? I can imagine two scenarios: A/ Cooling those rooms means the cold air will "by osmosis" trickle down into the other rooms downstairs (where cooling would be welcomed), or would somehow "cool the whole house" to some degree, which I care about if it's a hot set of days. B/ Cooling those rooms will only cool the actual rooms, and we don't care if they are a bit toasty so it's wasted effort. No meaningful "spreading around" effect.
  14. 54sqm usable floorspace, 2.25m ceiling height. 74m2 full space (we have a large hall 'gap' thats unusable but does contain hot air) - so perhaps 74*2.25 = 166.25 m3 air to heat/cool. Temperature on the hottest day in May went to 25.3C, normal days 24.0 cold day 23.0 U-Value of the roof: 0.094 (according to PHPP, perhaps use slightly worse value (0.1) instead..
  15. Absolutely, I have octopus flux and in many cases I get 15p or even I think 30p during the peak (4pm-7pm). But my gut feeling is that my house "energy loss" (aka U value, really), not to mention the ASHP (AC and water/ufh) efficiency is 300% at very least so anything I can heat or cool is very likely going to yield me more value-for-energy. @SteamyTea Ah I completely forgot, yes I have an EV but don't use it a ton so often that's full too. In fact I'm actively considering building my own V2H system so my car battery can power my home. Nobody have any idea if I should cool my hot loft (even though I don't care it's hot?)
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