Russell griffiths

So does that differ from the electrical regs.

So if they need to be 3m from a shower or bath, what is the distance from a basin. I was under the impression that 300mm from the bowl of the sink was correct. @Onoff

Do you have a diagram of zone one please, big fella.

He’s a bit overweight I think he would have gone down like a sack of spuds.

So after living abroad for a few years we have got used to having a double socket in a bathroom. The wife wants to put one in every bathroom for hairdryers curling tongs and other stuff women need to make them look less ugly. Whats peoples opinions, my discussion with the electrician yesterday turned a bit ugly and I thought I might need to punch him. I managed to exercise complete restraint and he had a lucky escape. Thoughts people.

If it’s really thick you might need to remove the filters from the spray unit. Have a look at some vids of the lads spraying air sealing pastes and spray plaster.

You can get a tread extender if you need a bit more length. Ooh Er misses.

The locktight stuff is £15 a tube. ?

thats Getting better, gone from 10 out of 10 shite to 4 out of 10 ?? the way to picture it is imagine you have a big pointy stick, this stick is the cold, look at any areas that that stick can penetrate into your structure, then you have another pointy stick, this ones heat loss, look at where this can escape from the building. You can do loads more, but you need to be realistic, I think you said it was an extension. Tell us a bit more on the design. For example if you have a freezing cold stone cottage on 5 walls and this extension is just forming 1 wall it is pointless building this to passive spec if the rest of the house is air leaky and cold. As as opposed to an extension that will wrap around 75% of the house so is worth upgrading specs as it will improve the overall house.

Ive said this till I’m blue in the face to pick your choice of icf supplier go to jobs where it is being used and pick it up, look at it shake it work out how it will perform, ask the lads installing it. Whatever you do don't choose it by price and don’t choose it by what the rep tells you. Some of them would sell their granny if they could make a quid and some of them are just downright liars. My rep took me to a site on a pour day, he was obviously confident in his product. I asked him loads of questions and he basically said it was for me to do my homework, not for him to push his product. He told me not to bother asking if there was any movement in the price as there wasn’t, and for me to call him once I had done my research if I wanted to place an order.

Use that liquid pipe sealer, the one from toolstation, half the price of the locktight.

Poor quality??? looks like something called a sandlime. Is it sold as a facing brick, does it have a weather resistant rating.

Not really that’s probably as shite as it could get, do a bit of a search on here, the same thing was covered a few weeks ago. Have a read up on stuff previously covered and come back and we will sort it out, but it will help once you have a bit more knowledge of terminology and stuff.

Bricks are fired by being put in a kiln, depending on how they are stacked I would say they will all have a variety of colours. If you are after them all looking identical I think you need to look for a better quality product.

WHEN IM FINISHED. ??????????.

@Balraj Appadu TBH it sounds like a pain, so priced accordingly. Why not get a price in slate and you and you might start to see the work involved.

Is that fitted.

I think you need to re calculate your roof pitch, 1 in 40 is not a lot, it’s certainly not enough for a zinc roof as far as I’m aware. When I looked into mine, it was minimum 5 degrees with no joins in the sheets, if you need to have any head laps the fall needs to increase to something like 12 degrees. My roof is 10 degrees so all my sheets span front to back in one piece. Capillary action is a bugger and will suck water back up a slope if gravity cannot get it away quicker.

The boss is not too far forward, it should finish flush with the tiles or a few mm back, if you where to set it in the wall it has the potential if a leak occurred to drip inside the wall. correct procedure Mock it all up dry, mark the length of things to be trimmed get an old fitting that screws in to the wall boss screw old fitting into boss get some CT1 and splurge it around the boss smoothing it off level with the face of the tiles going a bit concave back to the boss let the CT1 dry remove dummy fitting. BINGO you now have a waterproof junction between the boss and tiles, if the arm fitting ever leaks it will run down the face of the tiles not into the wall void.

We have 125m of drive, we have a few things in place. Big sighn on gate with phone numbers on it as well as clear instructions what to do with parcels, we have a big waterproof box by the gate for parcels. Due to Covid I have found that no drivers are bothered about signatures anymore, I have also found that once you meet the local delivery guys they will just drop parcels and be on their way. Bigger deliveries they just read the sighn and come up the drive

FEE FI FO FUM, did you star in jack and the beanstalk. ??

So swap out your insulation for cheaper EPS and use more of it, 250 or 300mm eps will probably be cheaper and gains your height needed. Buy it direct from the manufacturer and not a merchant.

Anybody heard of OMEGA kitchens

Looking at that pic it makes more sense, I think you would end up with a goal post arrangement with a steel with a large flat plate welded to the bottom to take the stone. Two things I think will come into play. Twisting, with the loading only on the front the steel will want to twist of its mounting points the fall of the roof, will zinc go down to that pitch.

Why the extra height,are you a giant? Or is it a design feature.