Russell griffiths
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Everything posted by Russell griffiths
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You will find if you don’t tie it and a fat bloke stands on one piece it can kick the end up causing it to be too close to the surface tie it loads so it acts as one big sheet.
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Van condensation
Russell griffiths replied to avabanana's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
I would go with 100mm rockwool and then battens and plasterboard how tall are you? -
Zinc angled standing seam.
Russell griffiths replied to Makeitstop's topic in House Extensions & Conservatories
I think the finish and colour is a bit immaterial really, when you put it up on the roof they all look very similar. Its just how dark you go, light grey through to black. Unless your really out there and go green or blue. I got got a few samples of roof sheets and did my own testing. I basically threw the sheets on the floor and jumped up and down on them, I then left them out in the rain to see what happened. A bit unconventional but hey ho, I worked out that I hated the aluminium. Too thin dented easily. So i would pick the base material and the coating if any, then the colour -
Plasterboarding and Finishing recommendations
Russell griffiths replied to revelation's topic in Plastering & Rendering
Look up level 5 finish, you can skim the whole board with the product you do the joints with, spray or roller it on and finish with a wide skimming blade. -
With the zinc roof, it doesn’t need to be zinc to look like zinc, the planners wouldn’t know the difference in any of the materials, send them in samples and get it signed off, lots of cheaper alternatives at half the price.
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Pull out larders are a problem just waiting to happen, they get overloaded and door misalignment happens as soon as you load them. Avoid.
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Go with a timberframe manufacturer who will deliver a guaranteed airtight structure, you will have this at a fixed cost. Then the only variation will be the fit out, no surprises that your build method suddenly isn’t as good as you wanted with expensive additional stuff needed.
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Top of door. Is there room to lift it up.
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Why, do you have a gap at the top? Undo the fixing screws, cut the sealant, get 4-6 of those blow up window lifters, pump it up and re secure it. Its not like you nedde to lift it out, the hard bit is already done. Man up ya big girl.
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Lift the door up. .......?.?????
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You should include a vapour control layer under your ceiling, then a service batten then boards, don’t rely on boards and plaster to be air tight. You can get lots of lights that will fit in this 25mm void so you don’t puncture the vcl.
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Look at getting it removed, a lot of covenants are easy enough to remove.
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Kitchen design app.
Russell griffiths replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Thanks all, got the usual suspects doing drawings I just wanted to have a play myself. -
Did anybody do a kitchen design yourselves, looking for a programme or app. Ta very much.
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How about borrow as much as you can against the cottage, then buy a mobile home move out of the cottage and turn it into a holiday let, will give a good income for the future.
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I would look at a brush or spray on liquid. Tapes are very time consuming. I used a brush on product called blowerproof.
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Condensation is funny stuff. When I put mine on I had sheets just sat on the roof not fixed, you would think that the temperature was the same on the top of the sheet and the underneath, so how come when you pick a sheet up the underside is dripping in condensation, it can only be 1-2 degrees warmer on the underside.
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Woodcrete blocks as the finish inside. Sorry @Andy H that’s the funniest thing I’ve heard this year. If you accidentally fall against it you will be going to A+E for a skin graft. I cannot see why you would use waterproof concrete in woodcrete either, the block structure is such that the concrete ISN'T a continuous pour of concrete, it is a lattice work of concrete full of voids and gaps every time a block starts or stops.
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I wasn’t to keen on any of the designed systems so included the eye watering cost of one of those fancy membranes with the plastic fibres all over them to allow condensation to drain away.
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You seam a bit mixed up with this, how can you consider making the roof rafters smaller with the high load from a green roof, the roof loading will be higher than normal. Im afraid I don’t like the design at all, green roof is pointless, gutter details are a disaster waiting to happen, leaf debris building up will lead to the gutter no working correctly and water getting into the structure. Nope, not for me I’m afraid.
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That looks very similar to the insulation product from kingspan that I used for a different problem, if it is it was about £40 a metre.
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Flashing sits on top and goes up the wall 150mm, I think this height has something to do with rain bounce, any lower and rain can bounce above this height and get behind the flashing, I believe this is a very old regulation and might be a bit more relaxed now, check with building control. Inbetween the pans and the upstands of the sheets is a foam filler, it has sticky tape on one side, it prevents insects getting in and rain being blown up, but allows airflow. I have seen other makes that consisted of a perforated metal trim that you stuck down with sealant and the flashing went over the top.
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Going through a block wall with a 100mm duct does not require a lintel unless you had a high load on the point above the duct. Imagine if the wall was built and you drilled a 100mm diameter hole in it, you wouldn’t then install a lintel. But anyway lintel or no lintel you are you are talking about £20 for a couple of lintels so not really any point in even adding that up, put it where you think it will be best used. At the most it will require a 100mm diameter hole in the floor with a 25-32 mm pipe sticking out of it, try to get it close to a wall so it can be clipped up neat. Its next to no room at all really.
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Why would taking it to the plant room require lintels. You are talking about a watermain installed into a duct, if the duct is 100mm diameter you would just bridge over it with a block laid flat. I would take it to the point it will be used the most, plant room, the kitchen sink will just have a cold feed to it from the plant room.
