Russell griffiths

Understanding air tightness is something you can work out with a couple of evenings reading. I think you will need to go through a few architects before you find one who understands it as much as you do.

I cannot see it on an I pad.

Have you thought of another house on there.

You should really have a decoupling Mat under them. It’s really about differential movement solid screed expanding and contracting as it warms and cools with yours you probably have enough different layers to accommodate a bit of movement in the wooden layers. In the scheme of things £5-6-7 hundred quid an the mat is probably good insurance.

Have you thought about a fibreglass angle under the windows, bolted to the brickwork. Those side brackets will do next to nothing in supporting the load.

You only put the foundation under the slab in high load situations normally the ground is heavily compacted then stone added then heavily compacted then the load bearing insulation then concrete with reinforcement the concrete can be thickened in the area of the load this is a general idea you will need to get a bit of professional input regarding loads and design. You will need more insulation than 100mm but less concrete, look up insulated rafts on here, loads have done them.

Why are you not working

It would all depend on the price, what is in the picture isn’t worth a lot, you are actually better of with a bare plot, how high can the house be when finished? As you will need to add 150mm of insulation on top of that concrete plus screed so your finished floor will be 250mm higher than what is there. As I said it’s down to the price, I would not want to pay any extra for what they have already done, just the plot price. What about drainage, you will need to take all pipework out the walls if it’s not already in the floor.

All insulation is load bearing, you just need the load carrying capacity that your design needs loads on here have an insulated slab with walls on top. You will need all the loads calculated then the slab design done. What are the walls holding up. You just continue the insulation over the entire floor and add reinforcement mesh and then concrete.

The thing I’m not liking on the flat panel idea is that the ceiling is sloped so the lights will sit at an angle, I have briefly looked at a gimbal type fitting.

Do you mean 3 phase as in power supply, or that they have 3 circuits? the ones I looked at had 3 circuits and could be flush mounted.

Anybody got any any good makes, complete crap, ones that fall apart vaulted ceilings with only a service void to install lights into, I think a track system could answer a lot of problems.

Work it out from damp course down, if you have blocks below dpc you don’t want to be cutting them.

I would build your slab as a load bearing slab and sit the timber walls on top what you are proposing is a very bad system that was proved to cause rot in a lot of timberframe houses a few years back. A full slab over the whole site is easier to detail with damp proof membranes and other stuff.

I did a bit of google searching as well it looks as though the quooker connection thing is fairly heavy, so it is installed on a short stub of copper with pipe clips close by to keep it all tight and neat, your guy has first cut a T in to feed the dishwasher this has put the quooker connection further from the feed pipe so putting more pressure on the junction, hence his bodgy bit of pipe to prop it up. I would live with it over Christmas and get someone to yank it all out and plan it properly in the new year.

The more I look at that waste pipe the more it offends me. Do your kitchen units not have a void underneath them and a kick panel waste should run along the floor, low and come up in the cupboard, not run through the cupboard taking up storage space.

Does that hot water tap connector block thing not have a mounting bracket, I cannot believe it just hangs on the weight of the pipes. And the waste pipe is that not running up hill why is the waste pipe pipe in the cupboard and not underneath it. All looks a bit crap to be honest.

I haven’t read all your post, life’s to short but I will add with mine I contacted neighbours and asked for letters of support, there is nothing stopping you doing a counter manoeuvre and canvassing for support get some nice copies of your plans done and invite anybody round who would like to look at your proposal. I dont know if it will hold any weight but worth a thought.

You need to explain more what you are trying to do and what reason. Is it a new build .? is it just a bathroom Reno why through the wall.? what is on the other side of the wall.? are you at ground level or first floor. .? blah blah blah. Theres a million ways to skin a cat,

Don’t panic Rodney, leave it alone. Will all be fine.

Is the mortgage classed as for new builds but by leaving the steel they think you are doing a conversion. I would go back to them and point out a few things.

I’ve always used a product called synthapruf , but there are dozens of bituminous type products available at your local builders merchants they all do the same thing really. Air flow is probably something to look at, all the Anderson shelters I’ve ever been in are always damp and smelly maybe Incorporate a couple of high level airbricks in the new wall.

I’ve not sent any document to building control regarding this, you just state that you will comply. When we lived in oz this is a major part of building control, they come along and measure the flows, you pass, then you pull the restrictions out. Building a house is hard, don’t make it harder than it needs to be, just tell them what they want to here.

Tell the designer it’s your house, pick the stuff you want. Simple.

Get the hammer and bolster out and chop it out now, go and grab some of that super pipe leak tape at screw-fix and tape it up unless you live on the moon you should be able to buy some repair parts today. Standard 16mm joiners are available at most plumbers merchants. If it’s a funny size pipe you have Even a bit of copper and two jubilee clips will hold it.