Russell griffiths

As nod said, why are you not taking the whole roof off and re new it all.

It works if done correctly, boards have to be fitted with full strips of adhesive, not dabs, all back boxes need fully sealing, any penetrations sealed. Its all about getting the details right.

I thought you wanted to improve the airtightness not destroy it.

I know this was already discussed, but why the trench if you have root problems. A simple raft is what you need. Buy some scaffolding boards as shuttering, weekends work and it will be in.

150mm thick slab with reinforcement, if you trim them every year to 18 months this will keep the roots fairly inactive. If it does move it will move as on piece, so you can get one of the new style sloping sheds, there all the rage don’t you know.

Improving the airtightness is probably the best bang for your buck. Good details don’t cost much, £5-600 in tape and membranes is a good insurance policy for a better house.

If you build it close to the trees build the roof well and robust as the lads trimming the conifers will want to stand on the roof to trim the front face, you will be looking to get this done every 3-5 years as they will grow wider and wider, it is really a false economy to leave it longer as you will just pay more to get them trimmed if the access is crap. Bamboo is very invasive, make sure you look up which ones have more controllable roots. I would stick with the conifers. And learn to trim them yourself by standing on the shed. Get someone in to bring them down to 2 m above shed height.

@Dreadnaught check prices carefully, the funny rectangular duct is painfully expensive compared to round. Also read the adverts carefully some prices look similar but the rectangular comes in 25m rolls and the round in 50m i bet a few people have been caught out with that one.

There all shit and look like they are made from the cheapest nastiest plastic you can imagine. Buy the first ones you come to. They are there purely to make a gap, they will not rub a hole in your membrane as they don’t move, nor should your membrane, the air movement is a tiny whiff of a breeze not a howling gale. Buy them nail them on, next job.

Afternoon @Patrick how’s it going bud, haven’t seen you around lately.

Lay down hardcore, cover with plastic, 50mm thick concrete ramp to correct specifications. Get it signed off then smash the ramp up with a sledge hammer and turn it into a bit more hardcore, the plastic prevents it sticking to the hardcore so it breaks up easily.

Anything you want to remove, do it now. Anything to be retained can have a net put over it to prevent birds entering it, it must be tied at the base to prevent entry. Any shrubs you want to retain that might get damaged get them dug out and put somewhere out of harms way.

It would depend on how your paying him. If he’s on a metre rate, he won’t want to start messing with steels, you need to ask him to price installation separately, or you hire the lifting device and pay them day work to fit them.

Vertical battens, no counter batten required horizontal batten, counter batten required. The battens ideally should go through the osb and into the studs for extra support.

Nope, just mark it up and cut it out, glue it screw it. Just get it fookin on and get onto the next bit.

You can put a y branch under the sink with an access cap for cleaning out, you shouldn’t need to remove the trap, you will also need rodding access in the garden in the form of an inspection chamber.

I believe 100mm is just about building regs standard.

I would also look at your downstairs insulation 100mm is not enough over block n beam.

I wouldn’t get too gloomy my planning cost £14600, then I had piled foundation, it’s not the end of the world, and looking at your location it’s not exactly the cheapest place to do anything.

Omg you both need therapy, there’s nothing there even worth keeping box of matches to all of it.

Why would a tree survey cost £1000 if you have no trees present. It should be around £300 you do the leg work first, so supply a site map so the arborists does not need to download one. Their report will be about a paragraph long, stating no trees on this site that have any significant amenity value and none that will be in the way of the future development. Job done. Or produce your own maps and photographs showing no trees and write in your submission beside tree report, no report obtained due to the site not having any trees. I did did a lot of legwork for my submission saving the planning consultant a lot of time. Regarding the piling, why would you offer a solution to a problem that doesn’t yet exist, wait for a soil survey before you think about piling.

You do know that there are help groups you can go to, hoarders anonymous.

So you take out one when that situation arises. Keep the money in your pocket, you might not sell in 10 years.

If you put solar panels on the roof of the caravan you could put the hot tub inside and it’s a mobile love making shack for weekend escapes.

You don’t need s warranty unless you have a mortgage.