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Found 26 results

  1. dpmiller

    Down the big long lane...

    As things chug along slowly, I think it's time to move house. previously... We're still working our way through the mire that is purchase (Jebus, could Land Registry make it any harder to work out who all has rights over a sight line?) but at least now I've risked getting the planning consultant on-board. No red flags on the Property Certificate, which is great news. I've got some quotes in for the TF already, but it's surprising how many won't quote until Planning is approved. Likewise prices are in for the Shed. So some stuff I've worked out, some I haven't. I can handle the electrical design (RCBOs all round), but I suspect @Nickfromwales will be leaned on for the heating and foul aspects. But firstoff- and yes I'll be asking the same Qs of the PC- what is acceptable to do on-site prior to full approval? The site has had Outline then Reserved Matters, the planning retained on footings which were confirmed inspected by the BCO. Is it likely that we could go ahead with erection of the shed/ garage so as to utilise it for storage and break accommodation during the build?
  2. Hi all, I have a barn to convert in the Lake District and am considering timber frame within the walls to save on costs and time. Considering Scotframe and other companies but would appreciate any ideas or comments that anyone has? thanks
  3. Is there merit in ordering a timber frame but without the stud walls included? Reasoning: @nod has persuaded me of the superiority of metal studs. And YouTube videos make them look easy and DIY-able. No resilience bars needed with metal studs for acoustic insulation. I assume that metal studs will have less (no?) drying shrinkage. Less need to fix plaster cracks and repaint, at least for stud walls (would still need to fix cracks in the exterior wood panel walls). Seems to be a big benefit. I hope that the frame supplier would reduce my frame quote accordingly, although I suspect the stud walls won't represent a large part of the total. [Specific benefit to me] less on-site storage needed for the studs during frame assembly. (I have a very cramped plot.) What are the flaws in my reasoning please (I assume there are many)? Any other advantages of metal studs? (Context: new build. Will be ordering my timber frame as soon as I get planning approval, maybe in 6-weeks or so. MBC is my current favoured supplier. Frame will be 140mm open panel with U-value of 0.11).
  4. Those who follow this forum know we moved in at the end of November 2018. Fast forward a few weeks and it seems that the OH is convinced that we have some "visitors" in the loft / attic space of our TF house. I can't deny there aren't noises coming from the space above but having spent a good 20 minutes in the area the other day, I couldn't find any evidence of any visitors. There is no way such guests could get in as it is fully "enveloped". But she is not convinced. I believe it is just the timber etc re-acting to the weather or settling down so to speak. Has anyone else suffered such "noises" or what are the general thoughts of the collective?
  5. Carrerahill

    Fitting windows into timber frame

    Hi All, I am currently doing my timber frame drawings and sorting out window opening sizes etc. and it got me thinking about the installation - the plan is to get the timber frame up and install the windows almost immediately to secure and weather-proof the extension long before the block-work goes up around it. I know it is common practise to install windows into the frame before the masonry goes up so I wondered if anyone has an installation detail or some good photos showing how they sit exactly and the sort of depth into the cavity they sit. I don't want to install them then find I have them in the wrong position. I was on a site recently and I saw how they had installed them, albeit from a bit of a distance and it appeared to me they had done this: Typical timber frame sheathed in OSB and wrapped in a building wrap, then circa. 50x50 rough treated had been attached to the outside of the opening round the timber frame, so basically like a picture frame over the top of the building wrap, this I assume was to acct as the cavity closer, the cavity was 50mm, so my assumption was that the window was then going to be installed flush to the outside edge of the 50x50. Then, when the masonry went up, the back brick face would be hard against the 50x50 (as you would expect a cavity closer) and the masonry would be brought right up to the edge of the window frame. The render would then go on thus "sealing" the window in and a bit of mastic at the end (as appears common on new builds around all doors/windows) to seal the UPVC to the render. Does this sound correct? Would you attach band to the window and then fix it from the inside of the timber frame? In theory it sounds fine to me but I just want to check. The next question is the sill, the supplier can supply me with a stub sill or longer versions. Do I get the sill, then build the masonry up to the underside of the sill, bit of mastic and job done? Or should I be thinking about a proper concrete sill to the top of the masonry? I will be able to ask questions of suppliers and people involved when I get there but I need to get some of these things clear in my head before I start the frame drawings as it could make a difference to exactly where I place a window to ensure I get get a whole block or brick up to the bottom of an opening etc.
  6. Blob the Builder

    Timber Soleplate and moisture

    Hi, I'm requiring advice/suggestions regarding protecting my timber soleplate from condensation/moisture between it and the DPC. I've read various threads how moisture can remain through lack of ventilation, and difference in temperature of timber and blockwork beneath, but not found a relevant solution yet, if necessary at all. Please see attached drawing for the build up. The wall is built and i'm starting timber cladding in the new year. So, before cladding commences i'm wondering if there is something i can do at this stage to insulate the blockwork wall externally, without bridging DPC ??? Foundation detail.pdf
  7. Ferdinand

    What about a Modular Loft?

    This week I came across a team installing entire sections of loft on a house-build with a seriously large crane. Really quite interesting, and an opportunity to indulge in some doggerel. As I was planning for my toft I met a man with a Modular Loft Windows were installed and tiles With insulation, floors and style Windows, Lift, Loft, Tiles Make an instant ancient pile! A extraordinarily transportable loft - But do I want one for my toft? (with apologies to St Ives) More photos below, and you can see the contact details on the side of the van in the last picture if you want one.. Gently does it... What they are matching... Close-ups and Details The Company Installing
  8. Bored Shopper

    TF - soundproofing and loadbearing

    In another topic re brick vs TF someone mentioned that TFs are very sensitive to noise transmission inside house (room to room), and also slamming a heavier than normal door may be an issue. From collective experience, how often does this happen? What are the ways around it? We are deciding re building method at the moment, and each one has lots of pros and cons, but for us key points to consider are: - loadbearing strength of internal walls (lots of heavy cabinets to hang) - room to room noise transmission (a family of extremely sensitive sleepers! plus a galloping cat) - wider than standard entrance door and lots of internal doors which we like shut Opinions are welcome, thank you
  9. Scaffold finally down and new window fitted although windows still not finished.
  10. Blob the Builder

    Levelling the Soleplate

    Another day, another topic....Today we're fixing our timber soleplate to our concrete block wall. We already ascertained last week that the blockwork wall was not level enough at various points. After reading stuff about packing underneath the soleplate regarding potential condensation problems, and difficulty in filling under the packed plate to achieve air tightness, i decided to get the brickie back to bed the soleplate in mortar. It's done and is level enough running around the perimeter, 18 m x 6.5 m. But it's off level running across the 145 mm of soleplate for a length of about 10m running down one long side. I'm a little upset by this, as not only is my internal FFL affected, but we're still looking at having to pack the sole plate !.......any ideas community?
  11. AliG

    Wall thickness

    Architect has set to work on sketch design for my parents' house. We are trying to limit ourselves to 20% of the plot area, which is 153square metres. I thought that this was quite comfortable until I calculated the area taken up by the external walls. We were looking for 140-150sq metres internally including a single garage, single storey. However, when I calculated the wall thickness required for around 0.15 U-Value, I realised that with 370mm thick external walls they will take up over 20square metres. This is a big chunk of our area to give up. This assumes 100mm external blockwork and a 50mm cavity then 140mm SIPs/timberframe with PIR insulation plus a service cavity. So what's the best build up to limit the wall thickness. I am guessing that we will have roughly 150square metres of floor and roof, 110 square metres of external wall and 40square metres of windows/doors. So the external walls are less than 25% of the external envelope. There is pretty much no limit on the insulation we can get in the roof and floor and we would use 3g windows at around 0.7 U-Value. It appears from @JSHarris heat loss calculator that the difference for example between 0.15 and 0.2 U-Value walls will be negligible assuming good insulation elsewhere. I did suggest that we could use render board but the architect wasn't keen. This will massively reduce the thickness of the walls. The other issue I notice is that most timber frame/SIPs systems show a cavity between the panels and the interior, if we keep all switches internal is this really necessary? Or we could use the minimum amount of insulation in the panels as it doesn't affect the overall insulation of the house much. Appreciate any thoughts, and what are the downsides of various solutions, such as external noise? I think we might just go to 22% of the plot to give us a bit of leeway but I would rather have the most efficient use of space possible. I am not too fussed about the cost as again, the external walls won't be a large percentage of the build.
  12. Using a timber frame company (such as MBC) made the frame erection stage of self building quite satisfying. It only took two weeks to build something that truly looked like a real house. We did spend more than 7 months in dialogue with MBC over all the little details. And still we made some quite clanging errors. More of that in my next post. It was glorious weather back in July. [How I wish we weren't in rainy autumn now - we are still not watertight......] Anyway, the first week passed by in a blur of unloading lorries and the ground floor going up. And then we went on holiday......
  13. Heppy

    Rendering EPS

    We have an MBC timber frame house with an insulated raft foundation. The house is cladd in larch but we need to finish the polystyrene base. We want to render it but how do we do this. Do we need mesh first or a special render that would stick and be flexible enough.
  14. Hi - I'm having difficulty in getting my head around what our Doors and window supplier are asking - they keep referring to the Thresh detail for the doors and after a bit of toing and throwing I have received this response - Regarding the thresh details again thank you for the information provided. The problem being as on the drawings you will require an external cill min 262mm which is not achievable as external cills are only 160mm projection. As you have 82mm frame which fitted flush with timber kit then 150mm external treatment and 30mm overhang = 262mm. Ways around this would be to have the doors on a cantered stone similar to windows. Is it me or can someone please try and explain in a better way, what it is I should be looking to achieve?
  15. Our frame arrives on Thursday & I've one final course of blockwork to do which I'll give extra attention to in terms of levelling in preparation for the sole plates. Do people generally bed sole plates on mortar or dry lay them? I'm not expecting to need any packing if I'm careful with the final blockwork as the levels are currently within 2/4mm over 10+ meters.
  16. caliwag

    Buildings in the landscape

    Apart from 'A Place of Houses, see earlier blog and several Frank Lloyd Wright books, I don't seem to come across many American house design books but I recommend William Turnbull's 'Buildings in the Landscape'. He worked Charles Moore et al on the Californian Sea Ranch project back in the 70s. OK there's lots of land there and plainly rather less planning restrictions, but the buildings are most interesting...double height living and circulation spaces, timber frame, with timber cladding in most cases, good planning with of course views to the ocean from big bay windows. I managed to pick up my remaindered copy in York bookshop, but they are available via from the states, quite cheaply, though the postage is be recommended though. About £20 inc P+P...good luck all
  17. We had a delay in releasing funds for our frame which meant that instead of it being erected in April it has only now just been erected. The dilemma we now face is the that the plasterer's are uncertain whether they can get the exterior completed before the bad weather arrives and the delay in the windows ,end of November ,means we face the prospect of having to wait until next year to finish the exterior. The frame is watertight at the moment and I am waiting for the timber frame manufacturer to get back to me as to what I can expect from leaving it throughout the winter but has anybody got any pearls of wisdom that they think we could do to keep it watertight for possibly six months. I am thinking of fly battening the outside to ensure the wind does not get under the roofing membrane and frame breather membrane, even wrapping it in some heavy duty plastic? The frame itself is fully insulated with airtightness membrane so I am keen not to get water/moisture into the structure. TIA
  18. Hi all, Over on the old forum, I described my plans for an extension to our semi-detached house in Berkshire. Since then, lots of time has passed, planning issues dealt with and drainage details fought over with Thames Water. I've found a builder to take on the project, and have engaged a TF supplier too. I have BC approval, but want to make some changes, and also would like a sanity check from the collective thought of the forum before finalising things. I've attached BC drawings for reference, and would welcome any comments please. The floor slab is currently to a traditional design - hardcore, slab with mesh, insulation, screed with UFH pipes. We have decided on Karndean flooring and have confirmed with the installer that they will latex screed whatever floor exists to a depth of 3-6mm. On that basis, I wanted to change the design so to insulation under concrete slab containing mesh & UFH pipes as I've read others have done on here. Builder is happy to do it, but I need some guidance on the spec please. Reading all about cold bridges and wall/floor junctions, I'm concerned that I haven't paid enough attention to this area. The plan is to have a brick outer skin to the TF, as per the attached detail from Silvaframe. Thanks Chris Edited as the attachments didn't list exactly as intended! Further edited to add a link to the recent images from a Google visit: P702-01-master-First Floor Plan Details.pdf P702-01-master-First Floor Plan Structure.pdf P702-01-master-Foundation Plan Drainage CB v3.pdf SilvaFramePackage-SilvaStandardPlus.pdf P702-01-master-001 Site Layout.pdf P702-01-master-002 Existing Floor Plans.pdf P702-01-master-003 Existing Elevations.pdf P702-01-master-Build Over Detail.pdf P702-01-master-First Floor Plan Dimensions.pdf P702-01-master-First Floor Plan Structure.pdf P702-01-master-Foundation_Plan_Drainage_CB_v3.pdf P702-01-master-Ground Floor Plan Details.pdf P702-01-master-Ground Floor Plan Dimensions.pdf P702-01-master-Ground Floor Plan Structure.pdf P702-01-master-Posi-joist layout.pdf P702-01-master-Proposed Elevations 1.pdf P702-01-master-Proposed Elevations 2.pdf P702-01-master-Rafter layout.pdf
  19. Ed_MK

    Block and Beam Quote

    Hello Everyone, I am progressing with some quotes for the foundations for my Potton home. I must admit, the prices have me a little daunted as they seem to be a lot MORE than I was told about 6 months ago. I am not suggesting I am getting "shafted" but I want to run it past you guys to see what you think. I am building a Potton Timber Frame and have been advised that Block and Beam would be the way to go ....easier and more friendly on the surroundings (i.e better received by planners) The house area from looking at the architects footprint and adding on roughly 50cm around (I just did this to be on the safe side for my working out ...I am not sure if it actually done) ..I am coming up with an area of 121.81 Sq Metres with a Perimeter of 49.82 Sq Metres. Now I have the first quote and it is over £23k, I know this company is trusted and has done many foundations for timber frames...But does this seem expensive? I have snipped the basics from the quote below you can see what it entails ...hopefully someone on here will know what some of the specifics mean thanks
  20. Pete

    Facade ventilation

    What have people used to ventilate the gap behind the cladding on a timber frame building? We are probably going to use an iroko cladding and need to ventilate behind on our timber frame.I have seen the mesh on a roll and in specified lengths in a batten type affair. I am not sure of the depth from the frame at the moment but I think it may be 25mm.TIA
  21. Firstly hello from Cornwall, Having browsed for the last year or so both here, GBF and on the old ebuild site I have to say what a fantastic source of info such places offer. Myself and partner are about to begin our self build I'm hoping someone can help with a particular question. Our plot is unusual in that the majority of the house is at 1st floor level (onto garden) and extends outwards from the lower level spanning an access alley between the house and a retaining wall. Because of the site elevations the upper level (where external to the lower level) will be on a B&B floor (tetris most likely) which needs to meet the lower level and sit on the outer skin of blockwork. Therefore we need to build the lower GF level in block - proposal is full fill 100mm block - 200mm glass batts - 100mm block (7n) all parge coated with a foundation detail matching Denby Dale / Golcar. Whilst I don't like block it works at supporting the upper level, is DIY able and I can focus on the detailing - sites like tonyshouse etc help greatly with this. At first floor level we want to use either timber frame or SIPS and whilst we aren't looking for passive standards (the B&B effectively kills this), efficiency is high on our list. Quite simply does any one have a detail showing a well thought out join between a cavity block lower level and timber / sips upper that focuses on air tightness and continuity of insulation? In particular I'd like to build to the outer leaf line of the lower level to maximize internal space and avoid an odd external detail at the join. External finishes are render lower GF & horizontal cedar / larch cladding 1st floor. My line of thinking was to build straight off the outer leaf but 100mm blocks won't work with 172mm SIPS which makes me think a platform construction is the way forward... Whether we opt for SIPS / timber frame (quotations are currently out and the same question is being asked to suppliers) I intend to mitigate the sole plate bridging issue with a course of thermal block under the plate plus 40mm of XPS sheathing extending 250mm above and below. Hopefully this will suffice. Please excuse the very DIY attached detail, still learning sketchup! Any help much appreciated! Josh BuildHub1.pdf
  22. Carrerahill

    145mm timber frame on 100mm blocks

    Hi guys, I am converting a sun-room into a kitchen, I am currently waiting on planning and warrant. To put you in the picture the existing sunroom is constructed of a cavity wall to about 600mm AFFL but externally about 1500mm above ground level, so the wall is actually about a 2000mm wall from the foundations, it has a 100mm cavity and is built in 100mm concrete block - see photo attached, I removed some PB to do an inspection. The top of this wall is then closed, and UPVC windows are fitted around 3 walls. The proposal is to convert it into a proper room which the kitchen shall move out to. So the questions begin! I had a look through the building warrant drawing and this is what it says: Cavity wall construction consisting of 19mm render on 100mm block with 50mm clear cavity and 145mm internal timber frame construction consisting of Tyvek Reflex insulating breather membrane to BS 4016 on 10mm plywood sheathing on 47 x 145mm SC4 pressure impregnated timber studs at 600mm centres. Walls finished internally with 12.5mm Foiled Back plasterboard on 70mm insulation on perimeter walls internal areas as standard plasterboard and 12.5mm moisture resistant plasterboard to en-suites, bathrooms and utility room, all joints taped and filled. 140mm thick Celotex XR4000 or equal fixed between timber studs with Visqueen vapor barrier stapled to internal face of studs in Bathrooms. Within 125mm studs allowance of 25mm given to run services within timber framing. This is clearly my architects standard paragraph, but to adhere to it as closely as possible my thinking is that I shall need to sit a 145mm sole plate on the top of the inner concrete block, but what about the 45mm difference, the construction method above says a 50mm clear cavity, so my thought is that if acceptable I can allow the timber to overhang 45mm into the cavity, but with 10mm ply (local merchant does 9mm or 12mm ply and OSB... so I was going to use 9) but that then means the clear cavity is only 46mm - I suspect I may get away with this or do I need to overlap the frame 5/6mm into the inside of the room. Anyway, I am sort of thinking aloud there, what is acceptable - 145mm frame on a 100mm block wall? The next thing I note is it says, "Walls finished internally with 12.5mm Foiled Back plasterboard on 70mm insulation on perimeter walls" so does that mean that between the studs in my extension I need to put 70mm (seems a bit thin by today's standards) insulation, then attach foil-backed PB to the studs - job done wall built. But I then read the sentence about the 140mm Celotex as saying I need to put 140mm insulation between the studs and a Visqueen VB if a bathroom, OR does the whole sentence apply only to bathrooms? Badly written sentence frankly, 2 interpretations for sure. If it does only apply to bathrooms it should say, " Within bathrooms 140mm thick Celotex XR4000...". What are your thoughts here? Thanks
  23. ryder72

    Is this acceptable?

    So I visited site today and found this. This is one of two layer of PIR insulation being fitted between timber studs. The height between studs is around 2.6m so it is inevitable that there is atleast one join and perhaps sections where 3 or 4 pieces make up the insulation but 20-25 pieces doesnt sit well with me. Your thoughts?
  24. After a couple of weeks away from the build, I'm going to install my windows next week. I *think* I know what I'm doing, but thought it would be worth asking those with a bit more knowledge than myself to confirm... Wall buildup is (from inside out) 12.5mm plasterboard, 25mm battened service void, plastic vcb, 50mm PIR, 145mm studs fully filled with rock wool, 11mm OSB, breather membrane, 25mm counter batten (vertical), 50x50 batten (horizontal), then final element is vertical larch cladding laid board on board- thickness tbd. As built, I have only got the studs/osb and breather in place just now. The breather is trimmed and lapped into the openings. The windows are 3G alu-clad with a frame depth of about 95mm. My plan is to install the windows so that they are flush with the outer face of the OSB. I have left a 15mm gap all round and will screw through the frames, with treated softwood packers to make up the gap. Where sashes are fixed I will use angle brackets. Low expansion foam to fill the gaps. On the outside, the reveal (ingo?) will be made from the same wood as the cladding, with a bead of sealant at the join. On the inside, the vcb will be fixed to the window frame using airtightness tape. My only real concerns are 1- should I use plastic rather than softwood for the packers? 2- any reason to use e.g. torx screws rather than ordinary pozi ones? 3- forming the weather seal. Should I close up the 15mm gap all around with sealant, then the timber reveal pieces butt up to that? Is there a risk of trapping moisture and if so what sort of sealant could I use? 4- forming the airtightness seal on the inside. Would it be best to tape a strip of VCB material around the frame edge before installation, or is it OK to just tape the vcb onto the window later in the build? 5- do I need to think about the 25+50mm cavity between the timber cladding and the OSB, and some way of closing it, other than what would be needed to support the reveals anyway? Hope all of that makes sense. I have tried googling all of this but 99% of info seems to be about houses with masonry outer skins.
  25. My walls comprise 145mm studs with OSB outside, and I will be fully filling this with mineral or glass wool, with an unbroken PIR layer inside of that. I assume that I need to use cavity wall batts as ordinary rolled insulation would slump too much. However everything I have found online is only 455mm wide- my studs are at 600mm centres so the gap is 555mm.