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  1. Hi, I need some advice on what wet UFH system to get for our renovation of a 1970s 3 bed bungalow. The house had subsidence so in the process of fixing that the floors were dug up and replaced with the following construction: hardcore base, membrane, 150mm insulation, concrete finish. Unfortunately we had no say in this setup so we're stuck with it now. We're left with a 40-50mm gap between the concrete and the base of the front door, which obviously limits what we can do with UFH. There are of course low-profile retrofit UFH options and we'd have liked to have gone with the Nu-Heat LoPro Max with self levelling compound but that is way too expensive for our budget (double what we want to pay). What are our other options, especially considering our 40-50mm gap, and the 150mm insulation beneath the concrete? I've seen the pre-cut boards that pipes are laid in which have no compound/screed on top, would these work well enough with our floor construction? Or should we go down the normal route with pipes in screed but only have 40mm thickness? Insulation below a concrete slab means the concrete becomes a part of the thermal mass, so because it has a slow response time would it make sense for the UFH to be run continuously? We'll be installing an air-source heat pump together with insulation above the ceiling and on the outside of the house with a render and/or cladding, so would this help with the response time and/or be sufficient to run continuously or intermittently? Any help would be really appreciated!
  2. Hi All Does anyone have any alternatives to kingspan that can provide psi values for a 100mm brick-100mm cavity (with 50mm insulation board) and 100 mm dense concrete block? I was first looking at QUINN/MANNOK as its about half the price, have all the relevant details except for psi values when using a 50mm insulation board. Essentially what I'm looking for is similar to the attached with a cheaper product so wondered if anyone had had any luck with this Thanks Jordan 1581676158_50mmCavityKoolthermK108(50mmin100mmcavity)StandardDetails-2ndIssueFebruary2019.pdf
  3. Received an email this morning from the company i brought all our insulation from (Cut Price Insulation) saying they will be increasing their PIR price by 8-10% from 14th April .
  4. Started framing one room and thinking about insulation inside. I want to go with PIR but the cost and wait times are putting me off. The frame construction is 100mm deep and is surrounded by a aircrete / breeze block cavity wall outer shell. There is a 50mm airgap between the inner and outer wall for ventilation Interested to know what people have tried as an alternative to PIR, or is it a case of just bite the bullet and accept PIR is the only versatile solution currently in the UK?
  5. I am working with a structural engineer specialising in Traditional Timber frames to design a new build Wealden Hall House. Could anyone point me towards a person / company with a good degree of experience in efficient building design for traditional timber frames? Pursuing a truly historically-accurate frame design results in some specific cold-bridging issues (use of continuous timber posts / plates / joists through cross sections), that we are seeking mitigation strategies for. Thank you.
  6. came across this article and thought it may be of interest. http://www.sofiepelsmakers.com/suspended-timber-ground-floors.html It talks about the different types of insulation used and how good it can be.
  7. Roof going on soon, I need to decide which insulation material/system to use. It is included in main contract but spec says “160mm K7 or equivalent to give 0.20 W/m2K”. I am aware this is min building regs so will be upgrading ... Builder wants to use Actis (Hybris and H Control) to save labour cost. Kind of like the H Control as a continuous layer but not at all sure about Hybris! I don’t want to push for PIR because I know it will end up with loads of gaps and I can’t be there to supervise. Would 200mm loft roll be easy enough to install from the underside, ie. self supporting until plaster boarded or would we need to use batts? I have plenty of space for insulation between and below rafters; raised tie trusses with 360mm rafters! What is the best balance of benefit vs cost?
  8. Hi all, I currently have a portland cement render on the external walls of my house, and i want to remove it and replace with a breathable product. Pretty tight for space in some areas so EWI unfortunately, and i'm not sure its fully breathable. If i could use a plaster product that was breathable and gave good u-values this would be even better. Does anyone know of any products or had experience with any here? Many thanks in advance.
  9. Ages ago I wrote a spreadsheet for doing what-if comparisons to see whether it was better to invest in more insulation in the walls, roof, floor, fit better windows and doors, or fit a better MVHR system. Others have found it useful and I've been reminded that I've not re-posted it over here, so here's the latest version. It should be self-explanatory, you fill in the cells with your wall, roof/ceiling and floor areas, add the areas of each door and window, put in the U values for each and, if you can, get hold of the met data from the met office for your area (the data in there is for West Wiltshire, right on the border with Dorset). This isn't a thorough modelling tool, it just looks at heat loss fairly accurately but doesn't take into account heat gains, although there is a crude way of doing that by drawing a line across the seasonal plot at the point where you don't use heating and you can very roughly assume that anything above that line will be heating. Please feel free to ask any questions, but bear in mind I wrote it back when I was designing our house and haven't used it for a couple of years. so I may be a bit rusty. Heat loss calculator - Master.xls [edited to add latest version of the spreadsheet]
  10. Could someone please sense check this insulation for a solid wall for a garage conversion. I have asked building control but they said they weren't interested. Things I'm not sure about. I have a very small air gap but I think this is countered by the breather membrane, does this make sense? Using uncoated PIR (thinking this General-Purpose-Polystyrene to save quite a few pounds) between the battens because the outer layer of PIR will be coated and act as the vapour barrier. Apologies have asked this question before but slight change here in the makeup so want to make sure I get it right. Thanks in advance
  11. Hi, I am just looking for some advice and wanted to see if anyone had any success in soundproofing their house from neighbours in a Semi Detached house. I am not the most savvy at Construction and Building work so I’ll try put as much detail as I can! I have recently moved into a Semi detached property and am experiencing a lot of intrusive noise from our neighbours. Couple with 3 young kids who run around and scream like maniacs. Constantly hear them running up and down their stairs and on the landing. Can also hear everything the family do in their kitchen as it backs onto our lounge. (Cupboards closing, appliances, switches/sockets being used). Can hear all of this clear as day as if it’s a hollow wall separating us. Can also hear them walking up and down the stairs and slamming doors. (Hard to tell whether they are slamming and stomping or if it’s just poor insulation or work between the properties). We have a breeze-block party wall with a layer of plasterboard on our side which I believe is Dot and Dab. Downstairs we have a lounge and kitchen along the party wall with the stairs going up through the middle separating the two. Then upstairs we have our landing and two bedrooms along the party wall. So currently we are going to look at getting the lounge, bedrooms and landing done first and then potentially the kitchen in the future when we get a new kitchen! I am in the process of looking for quotes for this. I want to get the best soundproofing possible on our party walls to block out noise this way. Does anyone know what the best soundproofing method would be to block out the noise coming from them stomping up the stairs and upstairs rooms, as this is the main contributor. Would it be a case of soundproofing under our upstairs floor boards between joists? Want to get professionals in to sort this properly so am happy to pay for the best solution possible. Just wanted to know if anyone has been in a similar situation before and had soundproofing installed and if had much joy? Any information would be appreciated! Thanks, Jack
  12. Hi all and a very merry Christmas - I hope you are all enjoying some time off. I was hoping to gain some advice/feedback on ground floor insulation over our ground sub floor. We are hoping to go with a polished concrete floor which our architect noted the minimum depth would be 75mm, leaving 150mm of insulation to work with (total 225mm to work with)... Our contractor advises 100mm for the concrete to be polished above the UFH (I am waiting until the concrete company and the floor polishing company opens to chat to them directly also in the new year). This would only leave us with 125mm of board insulation which from reading the forum and any reading I have done I am seeing a 150mm as the recommended depth of insulation - I am keen to get this right and to limit heat loss through the ground. The aim was to achieve a u-value of 0.13 or better (figure from architect); our initial plan was to have liquid poured insulation but that has changed as we don't have the depths available to achieve the u-value with this method along with the polished concrete floors we would like. I was hoping someone could advise on the insulation/concrete combination or steer me in the right direction as I would be very grateful. Many thanks, Joe
  13. Definitely a consideration when deciding to either spend more once on insulating and/or airtightness, or running costs for as long as your in the building..... https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-59760331
  14. Hi all, I have a gas boiler overflow pipe that runs from the external wall into my 'thermal envelope', behind my kitchen cabinets. It is only a small pipe but I live in a very windy exposed area and copper has phenomenal conductivity abilities so I figure this is a thermal bridge that I should look at. Has anyone ran such a detail through SAP, PHPP or DEAP? Ideally I'd replace the pipe with a non-conductive material but that may be unrealistic? So idea is to insulate both sides Does anyone have any suggestions as to what insulation would work here? It would have to be weather tolerant, heat resistant and hopefully look smart.
  15. Hi all - first post! ?? I'd be extremely grateful to anyone who can offer me any advice ? I'm looking for some "explain like I'm 5" answers to some questions I have about insulating my newly-acquired 1920s end-of-terrace, which is (needless to say) built with solid stone/masonry walls. I am thinking to perhaps externally insulate the rear wall, which already has some sort of rendered finish. However, I doubt I can externally insulate the sandstone on the rest of the building so am hoping to add some internal wall insulation. The side of the building has old (unused) chimney flues as shown in the pictures. Don't be thrown off by the door in the interior picture - this is the exterior wall behind there ? Onto the questions: Does the internal/external approach I've described seem broadly sensible? Do we agree that it's definitely worth doing internal wall insulation (even if I also insulate the floors and loft?) (assuming yes); with regard to the old flues (which I guess are actually a 'cavity' of sorts?) what is the best strategy for insulating here? What needs to be done to prevent damp issues? Esp. during the winter months, when the sandstone will be cold and wet I've seen products like 'StrormDry', which claim to provide long-term waterproofing of exterior surfaces. Are these legit and effective and would they be of any help in reducing the chance of damp issues? I expect a lot of disruption here of course so I'd generally prioritise 'better' solutions over mimimising disruption. Thanks for reading! ??
  16. House is a 1970s box. Has hanging tiles on half of first floor. House generally feels colder than previous house. So, looking to improve heat retention. I got a cost to remove existing cavity wall insulation and replace with blown bead but actually I think spending the money on exterior wall insulation would be better as also want to remove hanging tiles and render the whole house anyway. Any thoughts / guidance / experiences on best materials for exterior insulation and render very welcome! Mike
  17. Hi, anyone have any links to good u value calculators? Tried some from PIR manufacturers - unfortunately not all options are listed. I'm renovating a house and the spec seems stricter in Scotland than elsewhere regarding u-values for new builds, refurbishments, extensions etc. Building Control have specified my walls to be within this spec which is 0.22. The house is built with double block, outer leaf rendered 15>20mm, dense block. There is a 75mm cavity with inner leaf dense block. The entire structure will have a certain value before I add the insulation etc. I will be going down the route of installing PIR directly onto the inner face of inner leaf, taping then battening and dry lining the walls (warm batten). I'm looking for a calculator which will allow me to enter all these details if there is one out there. I have been looking at 100mm PIR but if I can reduce this even a wee bit, I'd be delighted. No biggie if I can't. Thanks
  18. Hi, My house I brought is 1920's and previous owner fitted ASHP air system only for heating. Now house insulation is poor so why it was fitted I do not know but this was around 10 years ago. My question is in my loft the ducting runs all over, is insulated. But the actual loft insulation is very poor. Can loft insulation be laid over the insulated ducting, or would this cause potential condensation issues?. Any help would be really appreciated.
  19. Morning all, I have been aware of TLA (thermal lightweight aggregate) as a construction product but more so used in large commercial projects but it now seems to be offered as a poured insulation subfloor to domestic project. https://www.energystoreltd.com/professional, this company seem to been a product wholesaler not a actual contractor. Just wondering if anyone has any experience of using this in a domestic project. In my experience fitting PIR floor insulation is a nightmare of a job for a whole range of reasons. Its a time consuming job, cutting the insulation around pipework to ensure a continuous fit of insulation all over the floor is near impossible and furthermore which contractors do you get to do it. A poured insulation seems to have many benefits, waste free, storage free, better performance. Is it not yet commonly used in domestic project due to cost or just hasn't been rolled out yet? Keen to hear your opinion!
  20. Hi, I am new to this group. I have a question about insulation to my roof in a loft style room. Please see pictures attached. Any advice what is better to use, 100 PIR or rockwool slab 100? Many thanks. Alfred
  21. The coils being prepared for the MVHR ducting
  22. The bungalow has an average of 180mm of PIR under the suspended floor. The cavity walls have an average of 140mm PIR in the walls The loft has an average of 300mm of fluffy. Theflat roof has 200mm PIR. The doors and windows are the latest double glazing.
  23. I'm in the process of planning a detached garage conversion. The wall will need to hold some pretty heavy and important things like: Boiler Consumer unit Wall mounted server cabinet So strength of fixings is going to be important as well as insulation and U/R values. Reading up it looks like fixings for insulated plasterboard are a bit of a pain and don't get great reviews so leaning towards Stud walls with PIR between and plasterboard on top making sure I have extra timber where needed. Given the construction (from planning permission history) is rendered 200mm lightweight block-work. How do I go about calculating the construction for insulation? I seem to be reading conflicting info on whether you need a void depending on whether you have a vapour barrier or not so my initial thoughts from outside-in are: Render 200mm block-work Damp Proof Membrane (any reason why not?) 100mm studs filled with 100mm foil backed PIR Vapour Barrier 12.5mm Plasterboard Skim Layer Is this going to achieve the 0.30 W/m²·K to satisfy Approved Document L - England, Existing Buildings - Refurbishment requirements? Block-work looks like this currently
  24. Hi all, Just to introduce myself. We are just about to finalise our renovation/extension project in the West End of Glasgow. Detached bungalow which we have pushed out the back 6m and also added another storey to it. The last two years, to be quite frank, have been pretty hellish, not only in terms of financial outlay (budgets - lol, aye ok) but, personal energy investment. I don't think we really realised how big an undertaking it was until one day, standing with my brother in law and we had no roof and it was just basically a shell. My brother in law looked around and went "fk me" and then it kind of hit me, square in the face or what we have taken on! We would have been quicker and cheaper, flattening the house and doing a fresh build but we weren't allowed to do that (a story for another day). Anyway, external wall insulation has just been completed and we are about to to start the roughcasting externally. Because we look at the building everyday we don't kind of realise how impressive it is and its totally out of context with the neighbours single storey 85m2 detached bungalows(we have 18 objection letters from the neighbours and even neighbours as far as 1.5 miles away, councillors, mp's the lot) as ours rises 6.2m at the back (the neighbour calls the wall facing him The Berlin Wall!). I work in the insulation industry but to be honest, I have learned so much more about insulation, insulation u values, lambda values - the works. We have made mistakes yes but fixed them. At the end of the day, we have built a house in which we are only temporary custodians but this house will stand proudly (Berlin Wall-esque) for a long long time and with excellent insulation and air tightness values, solar panel power generation and we are really proud of what we have achieved. Incidentally - never again!
  25. I'm looking in to converting a detached garage to a living space. The wall construction is 200mm lightweight blockwork rendered externally. As the garage goes right up to the boundary my only option is internal wall insulation. I will need multiple things attached securely to the wall (toilet, boiler, sink etc) so I think insulated plasterboard is going to be too much of a pain to use. If I use internal studwork with foil backed PIR between studs does anyone have an idea of the best construction for this which will achieve a 0.28 u-value or lower to satisfy building regs? I was thinking of 100mm studs with 75mm foil backed insulation pressed up to block work 25mm void OSB board pattress where strong fixings are required 300GA Vapour Barrier 12.5mm Gyproc Wallboard Plaster Skim Questions are: Does this sound sensible? Would it be better to have insulation flush with front of studs? Can I use the 25m void to run cables/pipes?
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