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Found 47 results

  1. Ferdinand

    Thermal Camera

    Are there any current recommendations for thermal cameras? I am wondering about buying one. Cheers Ferdinand
  2. dpmiller

    XPS Plus

    Has anyone any experience of XPS Plus? I was in contact with Polarwall to get delivery costings and the chap mentioned a new option, XPS Pus. It's got a Lambda of 0.027 and is only a few quid more per cubic metre (£144 vs £120). Guessing it's this kinda stuff? https://www.jackon-insulation.com/en/jackodur/products/jackodur-thermal-insulation/jackodur-plus-300-gefiniert-gl/
  3. recoveringacademic

    Insulate between doubled rafters?

    Either side of the Velux in our roof, is a doubled rafter. Have a look: There's a slight gap between them, one or two mm: not much, but enough to make me think that something needs to be done. One rafter has a slight twist in it.... Foam? Bolt? Screw? Ignore? Foam and bolt? Get a life?
  4. Ages ago I wrote a spreadsheet for doing what-if comparisons to see whether it was better to invest in more insulation in the walls, roof, floor, fit better windows and doors, or fit a better MVHR system. Others have found it useful and I've been reminded that I've not re-posted it over here, so here's the latest version. It should be self-explanatory, you fill in the cells with your wall, roof/ceiling and floor areas, add the areas of each door and window, put in the U values for each and, if you can, get hold of the met data from the met office for your area (the data in there is for West Wiltshire, right on the border with Dorset). This isn't a thorough modelling tool, it just looks at heat loss fairly accurately but doesn't take into account heat gains, although there is a crude way of doing that by drawing a line across the seasonal plot at the point where you don't use heating and you can very roughly assume that anything above that line will be heating. Please feel free to ask any questions, but bear in mind I wrote it back when I was designing our house and haven't used it for a couple of years. so I may be a bit rusty. Note that the file is an Excel spreadsheet, but to get the forum to accept it a an attachment I had to rename it with a .txt suffix. Download it, then edit the name so that the ".txt" is replaced with ".xls" and it should work. I have a Libreoffice version as well, if anyone would prefer that, although Libreoffice will open and run the Excel file OK. Fabric and ventilation heat loss calculator - Master.txt
  5. My external insulation has failed. It’s under guarantee so getting replaced at no cost. It was finished 15 months ago. The external render and mesh didn’t bond properly to the EPS and is coming away surprisingly easy. We’re still not fully sure of the cause. It’s an exposed south west facing gable so originally we though water was penetrating in someplace and causing it to bubble in an area. It was only when they started removing the bubble they noticed it was widespread and therefore not a localised water issue. If it was water at the top the render would bond fully under the window cills. We now think it’s most likely frost damage. When the base coat was applied it was very cold and think it froze before it had a chance to dry out. Lesson is don’t apply external insulation in winter or cold weather.
  6. Been working hard on the plans now we have had the all clear from BC, managed to get the stair design put back otherwise we are good to go. In drawing things up I came across the build up below from the architect. Its only on a portion of the front and rear walls (the others are 300mm I joist and 40mm PUR) but I am worried about several things and though I might seek thoughts from THE forum. My concerns are: 1. How to seal the bottom of the PUR to the top of the EPS to ensure no cold bridging? 2. What methods are there, other than long nails, to fix the Vertical battens through the PUR to the I joists (which only have 36mm thick flanges) and will these support the weight of tiles, horizontal battens and fixings. (I had thought of M12 studs fixed to the flanges -bolted both sides, and then fed through the PUR at intervals but it feels like a phaff although it won't be much of a cold bridge overall it feels like a great dew point opportunity. 3. What sort of thing (detail) can I do along the bottom of the overhang to make it look good, seal the bottom from insects but allow air flow up behind the tiles? Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
  7. newhome

    U-Value calculations

    Does anyone have a link to an idiot proof guide to help me understand my U-Value calculations, and what ‘Ok’ might look like please. I don’t have a passive house, so it won’t be super efficient, and some of the assumptions in mine aren’t quite right I believe as surely if I have MHRV it shouldn’t say ‘ventilation natural, fans 5’ ? It also doesn’t take the extension into account either. I really just would like to form view of how my house performs, and how I might be able to calculate a revised value. I doubt I can change anything at this stage. Many thanks! Summary of mine is below.
  8. Hi, I spotted an opportunity to save money a while back and in areas where we are not using the space all the way to the roof I changed from PIR insulation between the rafters to rockwool above the ceiling. What I did not realise though was that the MVHR ducting has to be in an insulated space. So now we need to insulate the MCHR which loses almost the entire saving. The installers have recommended using 50mm foil backed insulation wrapped around the ducts. This is fine, but I wondered if in areas where the ducts are installed just above the roof trusses and the loft insulation was pushed under the duct work could be just add another layer of rockwool that covers the duct work? This would be a lot faster and cheaper, but there is more risk that bits of the duct aren't covered.
  9. I know that most people here are building homes that will far exceed the minimum standards required by Part L of the Building Regulations (Part L = conservation of fuel & power) I finished my own build about a year ago - it's a small 2 bed holiday home on a remote site in N Wales and I decided to build it to just meet the minimum standards allowable in Part L and I thought it may be useful to give those of you who are exceeding Part L requirements an example of minimum compliance for comparison purposes. It's a single storey timber frame and timber clad bungalow with a net internal area of 71 m2 and an internal heated volume of 234 m3 (we've exposed the pitch of the roof internally). It's a rectangular shape on plan as it's built along the contour of a 1:8 sloping site. (Small rectangular bungalows are about the worst shape for energy efficiency). It's heated by bulk LPG and a combi boiler. No PV or other renewables. Naturally ventilated with no MVHR. These are my SAP figures: EPC C71 [Edit to add EI Rating of B81] Averaged (area weighted) 'U' values for walls, floor and roof of 0.15 Actual 'U' values are: floor 0.1 (we have a ground bearing conc slab with Hive app controlled underfloor heating and 300mm of EPS under the concrete) walls: 0.21 (minimum allowed in Welsh regs). Roof: 0.13 Windows 3G 0.8 Air test actual figure of 3.7 m3/(h.m2) (no special tapes or air tightness layer) Energy demand figures from the SAP calculation: Heating demand 3400 kWh (this equals 47.9 kWh/sqM of internal area) Hot water: 2290 kWh Electric for pumps and fans: 120 kWh Electric for lighting: 314 kWh (all LED) Primary Energy Demand: 106.1 kWh/sqM/year [Edit to add: CO2 emissions: 1,596 kg/yr CO2 emissions: 22.49 kg/m2] The house is warm and draught free. The things I like most about it apart from the location and spectacular views are the open plan layout with tall 'cathedral' ceilings, the u/floor heating and the 3G windows. I'd be very interested in seeing comparative figures for your own builds. Ian
  10. Any help out there please? We have 2 corners with glazing meeting at the corner vertical SHS. We have an MBC timber frame but there is no timber frame at these junctions, just the glazing units and the steel corner post. We are worried about thermal bridging. Still at the design stage so could design in some insulation. What would you do?
  11. recoveringacademic

    Insulation: performance equivalence table

    Quoting from our architect's notes '...Insulate fully between rafters with Kingspan K7 or equivalent, with 62.5mm of Kingspan K18 beneath rafters...' That suggests that somewhere there is a performance equivalence table. But there isn't is there? There seem to be equivalence claims (often unverifiable, it seems) This is the closest I got. Anyone help me do better, please? Specifically, what is the equivalent of Kingspan K7?
  12. vfrdave

    Window Jamb Insulation

    I am getting close to having windows installed (its been a long journey to here), my brickies have installed dpc and then vertical insulation reveal strips to the inside of the external skin of block and returned the inside block to meet this and close the cavity. At the head we have nothing other than internal & external head along with a filler head to partially close the cavity. My thought is to use some more pir reveal strips to close the remainder of the cavity and some low expansion foam if necessary. Is my thinking right? Lets assume it is, I am full filling the cavity with blown beads what should I do with the area under the sloped DPC above heads (see image)? Do I just leave this and assume/instruct/trust the insulation installers to blow beads into this section? Thanks again in advance.
  13. Triassic

    EPS current prices

    I’m just about to start my insulated foundations and have been getting prices for EPS 100 and EPS 300. So far the best price I’ve got for 2400 x 1200 x 100mm sheets are - EPS 100 £14.65 per sheet or £5.09 / m2 EPS 300 £36.85 per sheet or £12.79 / m2 Can anyone better these prices?
  14. I am adding 25mm of calotex to the underside of my rafters which have 170mm already in them. I will then be putting up osb and then plasterboard. My question is should i use everbuild pink grip or soudel low expansion foam to initially hold them in place. I imagine i would cut the sheets to size, foam or pink grip the sheet and push it into place, temporarily fix a batten across to hold the sheets in place until its all finished and then remove battens and foam up the gaps, cut back and tape the joints. Its just a matter of what would work best on that initial pushing up into possition. Once the osb is screwed up its not going anywhere. Or should i be using something completely different? Thanks in advance.
  15. vfrdave

    Corner window insulation

    I have 2 corner windows with the obligatory steel corner posts. How should these be insulated, all 4 sides or just the 2 external sides? Was thinking of using this for insulating:- https://www.phstore.co.uk/spacetherm blanket or CBS
  16. recoveringacademic

    Can I re-use these for my roof?

    I have any number of these left over from the build. I'd like to stick them in my roof between the rafters.... but I have a dreadful feeling Mr @JSHarris will say ' No you can't ' . I think we've had this conversation before but for the life of me I can't find it. Wasn't it the small gaps between the blocks that'll prove too hard to seal off? Please tell me I can use them. It's such a huge waste not to....
  17. Well after 18 months delay selling our previous house and 6 months demolishing the dilapidated bungalow on our self Build site, we are finally digging out for foundations. So I've been getting quotes for the Insulation for the insulated foundations. I’ve received three for EPS and all have come back with a price between £8,100 and £9,800. I’ve then received a bit of curved ball from a company who no longer do the EPS, but have quoted based on XPS (extruded) and their quote is £3,500 less than the lowest EPS quote. Is there any disadvantage of using XPS. Any help or suggestions greatfully received.
  18. We are planning to lay bamboo flooring to our ground floor, using the Uniclic system. But I am quite confused re the thermal properties of their recommended underlay. My preference is for their 5.5mm Fibreboard https://www.bambooflooringcompany.com/fibreboard.html which has a thermal conductivity of 0.050W/mK. their other products are Silver Bam with a 0.9 tog and CushNWood with a tog rating of 1. Which of these gives the best thermal insulation? What does 1 tog relate to?? It would help if they used the same measurements. Any help with this will be appreciated.
  19. This is from the approved plans for the floor section in my house, passed in 2007. 85mm polyurethane insulation in the floor is a slight puzzle - it was technically a renovate not a rebuild. From 2007 Building Regs what would the minimum be for that situation? The u-value seems to be about 0.26. I decided to have a little look to respond to a debate on the other thread about how much floor insulation is necessary for ufh to be a practical proposition. I can see from the 75mm screed why my ufh response has a delay in it, but even with that spec I like it. Ferdinand
  20. Just about to order some more PIR having sorted out my plan of attack. Half of this pitched roof is going to be 'vaulted' (i.e. Just one pitch of the roof with internal wall coming up right up to the ridge). So planning to fill between the 75mm (yes 75mm!) rafters with 25mm PIR and then a further 200mm PIR under the rafters. That leaves me with a 50mm ventilation gap. It's a slated roof with battens (not countered or any sarking) but have Tyvek breather membrane which I think means I could even reduce ventilation gap to 25mm? Build Reg Table 2 seems to say that roof u-value should be 0.18: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/540327/BR__PDF__AD_L1B_2013_with_2016_amendments.pdf This is a retrofit rather than new build but I want to get as good as I can get u-values and not simply satisfy BR! I've read so many conflicting roof values ranging from 0.11 to 0.2! Just need a sanity check that I'm on the right track here. Celotex calculator tells me I will end up with around 0.1 so with my EWI and 3G windows I am hoping i am on the right path. Everyone's specs are different but with BR values being pretty dire it's difficult to guage what a decent u-value would be! Should I try and improve on 0.1? I may be able to add a further 50mm but would mean fitting the plasterboard becomes a bit more cumbersome (Would probably have to fit battens underneath PIR and then fix PB to that).
  21. Russell griffiths

    Downlighting confusion

    Hi I want to install some downlighting in a bathroom in our current house but the information will be handy to have if we ever get planning for the new house. What I am confused about is different lights and loft insulation. Is there a clear rule for light type if I want to have loft insulation over and around the light. I can buy fire rated downlights and I can buy led lights that give off very little heat compared to the older style low voltage hot as hell ( halogen ) ones, but can the fire rated ones be completely covered or do they still need a hood over them? the fire rated are more expensive so is it easier to get a gu10 with led bulb and then install the hood thing over the top. I want to keep the continuation of the insulation as it's a cold draughty house but very conscious of over heating the fitting and fire risk. Cheers russ, confused in Cirencester.
  22. I have poor-to-nil mobile reception in my house, with [and due to?] wood fibre insulation and triple glazing. Usually texts will come in, but not go out unless you stand by the Utility room window. As for calls, no chance within the house. I have line of sight to the mast where signals purport to come from/go to. Is there a solution to this problem, which is irritating, even for a low calibre user like myself? Could I pick up the signal outside with some hardware, and re-transmit it within the house? Suggestions in simple language please.
  23. Currently working on improving my house. Will be adding cellulose to the loft but first I'm sealing up all tops of stud walls. I'll be foaming and taping all joins for stud walls and taping any other obvious gaps but I'm not sure how to go about sealing around the lighting cables. I don't have any socket cables feeding down to all the bedrooms which makes it a little easier but still how should I go about sealing these holes around the cables? And for that matter to the lights themselves. I have large insulated covers for both of my single bathroom led downlights and the extraction is from a new mvhr unit so no need to worry about wiring to individual extractors anymore Many thanks James
  24. Further to my post about flue blocks and lack of insulation in the cavity Ive spoken to a couple of companies about spraying in eps beads. Not having any luck with finding someone to do it one wanted £450 which is rediculous for 5m x 1m section. Any ideas of a DIY fix for this or a company in the east Midlands? Builder said about what pouring some loose eps beads and using an electricians pull rod to push the beads down. He would also drill holes in the mortar to see if they were filling properly. Any thoughts? Thanks James
  25. So apart from the long running saga getting the Northern electric network to understand their own reson d'etre, I've started to do the utility and downstairs bathroom, so as to give us facilities as soon as possible. Coincidentally the two houses to the North of us have been bought and are being renovated and the guy doing the building work called in to see me and very kindly told me that there has been a 14% or so rise in insulation costs and another forecast for October according to his BM. He realized I'd be buying quite a bit so had popped in to warn me - which was nice of him. So I checked online for the best price I could find and rang my local Jewsons branch with my account number and asked what their price was - it was about £6 more per sheet - so I told them the price I could get it at and they said they'd match it - so since that meant quicker delivery I just ordered 20 sheets (it was celotex I was after but they only have a different brand so I thought I'd only order a limited amount until I saw the quality). It seems fine, though being 100mm it has made me realize that I need to think a bit more about the floor build up as it still leaves me about 150mm + to the door level (disconcertingly, on the ground floor I find the beam-&-block level to door opening levels to be different at different entrances!) , though that does mean I can squeeze in another 100mm of insulation - a pity that for some reason it shot up in price recently. So my plan is to buy seconds unfaced insulation and put that on the bottom, and the foil faced on the top. I had planned to buy it all from a seconds supplier, but found that I can now get better prices for new in the foil faced versions than their seconds are priced at! After getting a few quotes, and reading peoples comments I chose Wunda to supply our UFH kit. I began pricing it all by buying it individually via eBay and so on, but found Wunda to be very competitive, so went with the easy option and got it all in one go in the end. We bit the bullet and after months debating have gone for only having UFH on the first floor in the bathroom, though obviously the whole of the ground floor will have it. Although I know the calculations say we should not need it, I am tempted to fit "just in case" background electric panel heaters in the bedrooms. My daughter bringing her horse to visit!