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  1. Hi all We live in an old stone built house, which was renovated/insulated in 2005. At the start of this year we had our internal upper floor ceilings (no loft) torn down, and 50mm celotex installed (gaps between rafters sealed with expanding foam) then reboarded and plastered. We also had about 5 new velux windows added and most internal walls skimmed. A month ago downstairs we had the horrible plastic karndean pulled up and limestone tiles laid (with UFH + 25mm XPS insulation below). The concrete floor has a DPM and was dry to touch. Previously our humidity levels were about 60-65% (expected to be a big higher as old house, no DPC). We'e noticed since about April (roughly when the ceiling work was finished) that our humidity levels have been above 70-75% on many days. I'm fully aware that adding insulation/increasing air tightness can increase humidity, but seeing as this house is probably fairly leaky, I didn't expect much of a shift when we did this. We've also added more ventilation from the velux vents. We have 3 decent DMEV trickle extractors which are running on boost mode 24/7 at the moment as the higher humidity levels are setting them off. As its summer, we often have the velux open (the velux are only even closed to 'ventilate' mode at worst, and often open all day). As it's been quite wet here (North West UK) with the humidity levels outside often 80%+ I'm hoping this is just due to inside/outside temperatures being the same (or often lower inside due to the stone keeping it cool) and so the internal humidity being the same (or more) as outside Do you think it could be the weather currently, or think we've created an issue with the work we've had done?
  2. Hi there, I've no experience in the building environment and this is my first attempt at detailing of a floor for a grade ll listed building. The detailing is coursework for university. Could you please tell me if there is anything wrong with the detailing. What should/shouldn't be there to improve the performance of the building? Many thanks in advance, Winn
  3. Hello! I have a factory-made 18' x 8' brand new garden room. I’m making it into a fully-fitted office/studio with 2 rooms: – studio for artists work – kiln room (a pottery oven that gets hot) Photos & videos: (plus attached diagram) https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ese89vjh96y5110/AACrpI1yJpD82CDCq1SDPP1ha?dl=0 Our goal is to have a warm workspace and protect our investment. Roof: (see picture) – Sloped – Shed roofing felt on timber decking – *unvented* (some air seeping in front and back but I’ll seal it) – 65mm rafters (not very deep!) Ceilings – (the plan for) – Plasterboard connected to the rafters in the kiln room (special fire-retardant board on all ceilings/walls in the kiln room) – Wood cladding connected to the rafters in the studio room – Ceilings are low - we don't want to make them much lower For insulation, my research has found these as the 'best' options: – Warm Roof solutions – not ideal for us – Cold Roof + Closed Cell Foam – too expensive I'd like to find the next-best thing - can you please help? :-) Q1) Ceiling Insulation – I've been told not to use rockwool style insulation in an unvented roof. Rockwool themselves say it's a condensation risk and that I *can* used their product, but I must usage a smart-VCL with it. - Celotex told me not to use their product unvented. - I've had other suggestions a thin layer of EPS across the rafters, no VCL, and either Rockwool or EPS in the rafter cavities. Note: Ceiling covering in studio room – We want wood cladding but because it's not air tight, the general recommendation is an airtight layer first like plasterboard. However we don't want to eat into our internal space too much if possible... What do you think we should do for the ceiling insulation? Q2) Wall insulation – our current plan is: Rockwool batts filling the cavity + Tyvek Airguard Smart (like membrain) VCL + interior wood cladding. Again the wood cladding has an impact -- it is used both as the exterior wall and the interior wall, so we're especially concerned about moisture getting in there. What do you think we should do for the walls? I know that whatever the product, doing a great job of air sealing it and installing it properly is the most important. But we are drowning in conflicting views - Thanks in advance for your help!
  4. hi, firstly I'd like to say hello to everyone here, this is a wonderful site and resource. I have a quick question about our outside carport ceiling. We might be using the below combination. - 200mm rockwool acoustic slabs in-between the joists - thick chipboard sheets screwed into joists - cement board below screwed into joists/chipboard - cement board plastered over would appreciate your advice and if there's anything better on the market/technique you can recommend. Is it worth using Kingspan sheets. want to reduce the noise coming into the room from outside and also good warmth and keeping cold out in winter. hope you can help kind regards neil
  5. Sometimes questions are raised as to whether it's worth increasing insulation levels and often there seems to be confusion as to what the "ideal" level of insulation is, or even what a "good" or "reasonable" level of insulation might be. I'm not sure whether or not the non-linear impact of improving insulation, in terms of the effect on the heating requirement, and hence running cost during cold weather, is widely understood. I've heard comments like "it's not worth improving the insulation from 0.16 W/m2.K to 0.12 W/m2.K because it would be 30% more expensive and only reduce the heat loss by 25%". Most of the time this is incorrect, because homes have heat sources all year around, from the occupants, incidental heating from appliances, solar gain and even pets (a medium sized dog is probably a four-legged 40 - 50W heater). So, I thought a really simple example might help some gain a better understanding of this non-linearity, and illustrate better why some are so evangelical about trying to improve insulation levels (and reduce ventilation heat loss, too, but I'll get to that another time). Let's build a pretend house, that for simplicity has no doors or windows and is a rectangular single storey box with a flat roof. For simplicity we'll assume it's on raised piles, with an air space underneath, just so we can use the same insulation level on all six sides and to make the sums simple. All I'm doing here is making a comparison, so this is a valid way of illustrating this effect. In our rectangular box house we have an average of 100W of incidental heating, coming from things like internet kit, a PC, a cordless phone base station, a TV, a phone charger, a few lights and a handful of intermittently used kitchen appliances. This is a pretty low figure - I struggle to keep our house background load below about 200W, without any lights on. The box houses two adults, giving out around 80 - 100W each and a dog, so lets say there is 220 W of heating coming from the occupants. The box also has a heating system that can deliver whatever power is needed to maintain a temperature of 20 deg C inside, and its night time, so there's no solar heating of the walls. Outside it's 5 deg C, a chilly winters night. This rectangular box is 10m long x 10m wide x 2.5m high inside, so has a total wall, floor and roof area of 300m2 and an internal floor area of 100m2, so fairly average in size (a bit bigger than our current 3 bed bungalow). So, we have a temperature difference between the inside and outside of 15 deg C (20 deg C - 5 deg C), an internal surface area of 300m2 and a constant incidental heating level of 320 W (220 W from two adults and dog, 100 W from electrical appliances and lights). First, lets see how much heat we need to put into this box from the heating system, if we have U values for the walls, floor and roof of 0.2 W/m2.K (K is degrees Kelvin, the same units as degrees Centigrade when only temperature difference is being compared): The total heat loss power, in Watts, can be calculated from the U value, the area and the temperature difference, so for this first example we get 300m2 area x 15 deg C temperature difference x 0.2 W/m2.K U value = 900 W. There is 320 W of heat coming from the occupants etc, so the heating system would need to deliver 900 - 320 = 580 W in order to keep the house at 20 deg C under these conditions. If this were by direct electric heating, then the heating cost would be about £2.09 per 24 hours. Next, let's see how much heat we need to put into this box from the heating system, if we have U values for the walls, floor and roof of 0.1 W/m2.K , in other words, we've made the insulation twice as "good", so might think we've halved the heating cost: The total heat loss power is now 300m2 x 15 deg C temperature difference x 0.1 W/m2.K U value = 450 W. This is what we'd expect, double the insulation effectiveness and halve the heat loss. However, when we now take away the incidental heat gain from the occupants, etc, of 320 W, the heating system needs to deliver 450 - 320 = 130 W in order to keep the house at 20 deg C under these conditions. If this were by direct electric heating, then the cost would be about £0.47 per 24 hours. So, by doubling the insulation level we've decreased the heating cost by about 78%, not the 50% that might have been expected. This is a very simplistic example, but it does illustrate why doubling up in insulation can give a far greater benefit than might be expected. It also shows why, when you improve the level of insulation you can reduce the heating requirement down to such a low level that for a lot of the time you don't need any heating. In that last example, turning on a few extra lights could heat this imaginary box home to a comfortable temperature on a cold night, whereas with only half the insulation it needs something that delivers 446% more heat.
  6. Has anyone come across this type of insulation before? while making the parents extension, we discovered it in the walls and attic. the property was built around 1973 and I wonder if this was a typical insulation to use then. I was working on the new doorway today and the insulation was falling out of the exposed cavity. I was wondering what type it was and elderly mother just said 'Oh, thats kapok!'. she is not a builder and I was amazed she had any idea. is she right? it is very light and fluffy but with a slight roughness to it. Google mentions kapok as an insulation but not for housing.
  7. Apart from a lick of paint and a recent bathroom, the house is pretty much unchanged since built: Gas warm-air heating (ducts, and lots of 'em) with electric immersion heater for hot water Parquet floors to lounge, hallway and dining room which needs resanding, filling and sealing (plus filling the gaps left when we remove the warm-air heating outlets) 1970s kitchen, including sliding-door cabinets! Our aspirations are: Immediate - Convert current tiny utility and the end of the double-length garage into a new dining area flowing off the kitchen, plus new utility and (probably) downstairs shower room Immediate - Roof lantern and bi-fold doors onto garden in new dining area Immediate - Replace warm-air heating, ideally with something more environmentally friendly Medium term - New kitchen (self-fitted) Long term - Replace tiling on gable ends with cladding (possibly cement board e.g. Marley Eternit) Challenges are: Three-gabled (T-shaped) chalet roof limits possibilities upstairs unless we put in dormers (which we don't have budget for and which would be tricky anyway due to multiple gables) No space to add a shower to upstairs bathroom unless we make the small bedroom smaller still. Possibly considering downstairs shower Existing ground-floor spaces are concrete floor with no inbuilt insulation Garage floor is about 100mm lower and so when we raise floor we'll have to raise the roof too Extending heating to the converted area of the garage - warm-air ducts can't be extended (and we don't think we're fans of it anyway). Garage floor isn't low enough for UFH and necessary insulation, and we don't have budget for lowering it, so it's going to have to be a combi-boiler and rads Asbestos throughout (we've had a specialist survey) including soffits, boiler flue, roof tile underboard, boiler cupboard door, utility ceiling, Marley vinyl floor tiles in kitchen (only the last three of these areas are likely to be touched though). No asbestos in warm-air ducting - confirmed by survey. Budget for immediate stuff is £30k. Conversion could be £20k, leaving only £10k for heating changes.
  8. Because of our budget, there's some hard decisions and trade-offs to be made. Grateful for any constructive comments! Remaining garage size It's a double-length garage - 9m. We could just convert half of it, leaving the front part as a regular-sized garage, but that will leave us tight on space. Instead we're leaning towards taking around 5.5m, making the front part just a workshop and store (and hopefully, micro-brewery 🙂. Floor will be raised by 100mm using PIR with 18mm chipboard on top, and external walls with timber frame and PIR. Roof to be raised by our tame builder. Shower location Due to the 3-gabled chalet roof, there's not many places where a shower can be put upstairs. There's no scope for an en-suite that we can see (unless we shelled out for a dormer, which is likely to be beyond our budget). The only option for an upstairs shower seems to be to move the bathroom wall into the 3rd bedroom, making it smaller still. The other option is to have a downstairs shower room in the garage, but that's then eating into kitchen/dining room space. Kitchen/dining room configuration The existing kitchen is long and narrow, but we aim to widen the room by taking out the built-in cupboards and moving the door back slighting into the hallway We'll then knock through the current utility room The new space is actually larger than the existing kitchen. Do we move the kitchen into the new space and have the dining room where the kitchen is? Could seem a little odd to walk through the dining room to the kitchen, plus we'd have to install a new kitchen pronto as we'd be wrecking the orginal (and that's not in our short-term budget) Would like big (possibly 4m, 5 door) bi-folds onto garden, and a big (3m x 1.5m) roof lantern in new converted space on flat garage roof. Lowest u-values we can afford. Leaning towards keeping the kitchen location where it is, sink relocated to window, and with a small utility room in old garage space Insulation Uninsulated concrete ground floor - which might be tricky to raise and too expensive to lower for insulation. VIPs too expensive to do throughout (but considering 10mm for kitchen) Cavity walls are already insulated Roof insulation needs topping up, and lap vents installing in roof fabric Heating and hot water Existing system is warm air, with electric immersion and cylinder for hot water. Boiler replaced within last 12 months, but the system can't easily be extended into the new conversion space. So we'd need a combi-boiler just for the conversion. Floor drop in garage isn't enough for the insulation that would be recommended for UFH House isn't well-enough insulated for ASHP As a result we're leaning strongly towards simply a new modern combi-boiler and wet rads throughout
  9. Hi I want to install some downlighting in a bathroom in our current house but the information will be handy to have if we ever get planning for the new house. What I am confused about is different lights and loft insulation. Is there a clear rule for light type if I want to have loft insulation over and around the light. I can buy fire rated downlights and I can buy led lights that give off very little heat compared to the older style low voltage hot as hell ( halogen ) ones, but can the fire rated ones be completely covered or do they still need a hood over them? the fire rated are more expensive so is it easier to get a gu10 with led bulb and then install the hood thing over the top. I want to keep the continuation of the insulation as it's a cold draughty house but very conscious of over heating the fitting and fire risk. Cheers russ, confused in Cirencester.
  10. My partner and I recently bought a small cottage near Forres in Scotland. It has a concrete floor slab and thick masonry walls. I've been planning to add a layer of insulation to the inside of my house but have found guidance on this to be a bit vague. Some suggest that a permiable insularion should be used others a vapour barrier. There is a threat that if the wrong approach is taken damp / condensation could result. I'm hoping to hear from people who have insulated their walls successfully. What method of insulation was used? Any input or suggestions welcomed.
  11. Ages ago I wrote a spreadsheet for doing what-if comparisons to see whether it was better to invest in more insulation in the walls, roof, floor, fit better windows and doors, or fit a better MVHR system. Others have found it useful and I've been reminded that I've not re-posted it over here, so here's the latest version. It should be self-explanatory, you fill in the cells with your wall, roof/ceiling and floor areas, add the areas of each door and window, put in the U values for each and, if you can, get hold of the met data from the met office for your area (the data in there is for West Wiltshire, right on the border with Dorset). This isn't a thorough modelling tool, it just looks at heat loss fairly accurately but doesn't take into account heat gains, although there is a crude way of doing that by drawing a line across the seasonal plot at the point where you don't use heating and you can very roughly assume that anything above that line will be heating. Please feel free to ask any questions, but bear in mind I wrote it back when I was designing our house and haven't used it for a couple of years. so I may be a bit rusty. Note that the file is an Excel spreadsheet, but to get the forum to accept it a an attachment I had to rename it with a .txt suffix. Download it, then edit the name so that the ".txt" is replaced with ".xls" and it should work. I have a Libreoffice version as well, if anyone would prefer that, although Libreoffice will open and run the Excel file OK. Heat loss calculator - Master.txt
  12. Weebles

    Rockwool, and lots of it

    After reading every post on this forum on the subject of sound insulation and in particular Rockwool I wanted to document our experience. Until the delivery arrived and we opened the packets we really didn't know what we were going to be working with. Here is the best description I can give. We ordered the following from Insulation4Less. They told us the lead time was about 4-6 weeks (nationwide shortage) but actually it all came within a week leaving us with a literal mountain of rockwool to store around site. It was wrapped but needed to be lugged into the house out of the rain. Big job. The 50mm deep packs were orginally intended to go in the ceilings where there were lots of pipes to fit around. We chose RWA45 rather than the more expensive Flexi. Having not seen the Flexi I can't give a really accurate comparison. But the RWA45 is flexible and can be pushed into spaces and compressed a little anyway. And it is cheaper. It is not rigid / solid like Celotex (which I had first thought it might be). Here are some open packs. It is pretty easy to cut using an insulation saw like this. https://www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-insulation-saw-22-560mm/7498k But it does shred easily too. Mask and gloves absolutely essential. The 100mm deep stuff looks like this. So although it comes in these "batts" which have a form to them, you can trim to to the size you need. We are trimming almost everything because the 600mm wide batts don't fit into the 560mm gaps between the 600mm centred studs. But there are plenty of places to stuff the offcuts and the puzzle of how to use every offcut as efficiently as possible is keeping us both amused somewhat. We are fitting this into all the stud walls (internal) and the ground floor ceiling. No need for any insulation on the external walls or top floor ceilings as that has been pumped in by MBC (more of that in another blog). Hubby used our MVHR builders straps to fit up a load in the ceiling. He is now using cheap pallet strapping and a staple gun! It is fair to say that we have been doing this sound insulation on and off now for well over a month. It is a big job. Ceilings harder than the walls. Time consuming. A bit (alot) messy. Requires us to ply the walls first (where ply is needed) and then insulate. For the stud walls that don't need ply we will work as quick as we can in the evenings once the the plasterboarders are on site (due next week) filling in behind them as they plasterboard one side. Going to be a busy week. But progress is satisfying and physically working on our build again is fun.
  13. I am in the throes of doing my insulation in the floor. Perimeter strips will be done around external walls. Is there any great benefit in doing this on the internal walls as well rather than just the foam strip? Thanks in advance.
  14. That's alot of insulation - over 600 bags of the stuff. They cut a load of holes in the MBC vapour layer ply. More holes than we ever imagined. Then they pump the insulation into the holes to fill up the walls (300mm deep) and ceilings (400mm deep). Some of it escapes. Easy to vacuum up though. Then they put the ply discs back in and tape over the holes. They have left us with some patches for areas of the ceiling they can't reach and for any they might have missed. Only found one so far. Sean and his firm - works subcontracted for MBC for alot of the pumped cellulose insulation for them - was fantastic. The house is definitely warmer inside now, and the echo is now deadened. It is so quiet in there. Can't wait to move in........
  15. Hello, I'm new to the forum, will soon have a house in need of insulation... Will post my questions in the relevant forum!
  16. Hi, I'm requiring advice/suggestions regarding protecting my timber soleplate from condensation/moisture between it and the DPC. I've read various threads how moisture can remain through lack of ventilation, and difference in temperature of timber and blockwork beneath, but not found a relevant solution yet, if necessary at all. Please see attached drawing for the build up. The wall is built and i'm starting timber cladding in the new year. So, before cladding commences i'm wondering if there is something i can do at this stage to insulate the blockwork wall externally, without bridging DPC ??? Foundation detail.pdf
  17. I've tried to find a thread on the forum about spray pu insulation without success. Does anyone have experience of it regarding cost and insulation values compared to PIR? I'm planning to insert 140 mm PIR into my open panel timber frame walls. But i have so many studs at varying centres that i'm considering alternatives.
  18. Hi We have been asked if we would consider using "Thermal Bead Screed" on the ground floor, it's an Italian product, real name Politerm Blu 110. It appears to be a lightweight screed with insulation beads used as aggregate. My original ground floor build-up gives me a respectable U-Value of 0.14 and is as follows; 100mm Sand & cement screed with UFH pipes embedded 3mm Polythene 125mm Thermafloor TF70 insulation boards with hot & cold water pipes embedded 3mm Raydon barrier 150mm dense concrete sub-floor The key to reaching the U-Value of 0.14 is that the boards are installed correctly without gaps or voids. The "Thermal Bead Screed" approach appears to remove the risk of gaps & voids and the floor build-up is as follows; 50mm Liquid Hemihydrate screed with UFH pipes embedded 3mm Polythene 175mm "Thermal Bead Screed" with hot & cold water pipes embedded 3mm Raydon barrier 150mm dense concrete sub-floor This won't give me as good a U-Value, I've been told 0.16 by the company selling it to me and 0.18 by an independent energy assessor. Have any of you used "Thermal Bead Screed" or know anything about it?
  19. Hi I think I understand how U-Values are calculated e.g. (Layer thickness) X Lambda = R in m2 K/W Add up all the R-values for each of the layers and 1/(Total R-Value) = U-Value in W/m2 K However if you look at the calculations from my "As-designed" SAP 2009 report below, the calculated Total R-Value = 5.844 m2 K/W and if you take the inverse of that the U-Value is 1/5.844 = 0.171 W/m2 K and not the 0.14 shown on the report below. Can anyone please explain how the 0.14 was achieved...what am I missing??? Thanks
  20. After much research we now know our flat roof can only be built using shaped insulation. And elbow grease. '... Much research.... ' disguises a long , nitty gritty detail process, much head and withers scratching. However, good progress towards conscious incompetence has been made. Not bad when you consider I started out unconsciously incompetent. Help me on my journey please.... One quote shows that, to create the fall, some of the PIR panels will be cut to shape by the producer - here's the twist we have to cut about 8 sheets to shape. Calamity, calamity. Just a simple wedge of cheese shape, but still currently - without a mountain of waste PIR - beyond me . Ah the joys of DIY eh? I know now that if I stick at this little sod of a challenge, I'll get there..... The lovely old guy who daily walks past our place -facing the friendly overtures of our fearless tom cat- says I should hot wire it. Memories of modelling glider wings Anyone done this before?
  21. So we had our first meeting with the designer last week and when I asked about the u-value for the walls he said he had calculated it to .22 with a 125mm thick full fill mineral wool, block inner and outer, render finish, plastered inner walls. I stated I wanted it to be lower and asked about the advantages of using a foil faced eps. He then said if we used a foil faced then we need to leave a gap i.e. not full full?? Is this right? For example, using the Concrete Block Association Website u-value calculator a medium density block inner, plaster finish, brick outer with 150mm foil faced full fill cavity gives a figure of .15 which is more like the figure I was hoping for. Just found his comment about the gap was a little strange as it contradicts all my research, but he has me thinking I've missed something now? I was just curios to anyone's thoughts on the point to see if they had heard similar?
  22. Hello Members, this is my first post and I'd like to say that I really appreciate Jeremy's Heat Loss Calculator, which took one day to complete (yesterday). The compact one-page format with 'what-if' ability is very, very useful. Thank you Jeremy. These are my current considerations and I'd appreciate any comments and/or advice from members Regards, Hugh
  23. I have 2 corner windows with the obligatory steel corner posts. How should these be insulated, all 4 sides or just the 2 external sides? Was thinking of using this for insulating:- https://www.phstore.co.uk/spacetherm blanket or CBS
  24. I’m just about to start my insulated foundations and have been getting prices for EPS 100 and EPS 300. So far the best price I’ve got for 2400 x 1200 x 100mm sheets are - EPS 100 £14.65 per sheet or £5.09 / m2 EPS 300 £36.85 per sheet or £12.79 / m2 Can anyone better these prices?
  25. Are there any current recommendations for thermal cameras? I am wondering about buying one. Cheers Ferdinand