Russell griffiths

You don’t put it in, in one constant area, you need to move the pump hose at a good walking pace, placing the heavy concrete on all the areas. So walk all around the ring beam filling up 100mm splash a barrow full on all flat sheets to keep them weighted down, you should go through the first truck of concrete in under half an hour. If you are still unhappy just walk haphazardly around giving everything a 50mm covering. Or why are you not putting another thin sheet of polythene down like you would for flowing screed. For £150 of polythene I think it’s a no brainier.

What is stopping the timber bearer getting wet and transferring moisture into the inner structure

Looks perfect to me, exactly how I would do it.

Entirely up to you have you got a breakdown on prices, any liquid pumped screed added £1500 to the price of mine, so I went traditional as it was the cheapest but also the product I liked the most.

I would avoid that anhydride screed like the plague

Concrete will push water get a wet vacuum cleaner, pump in concrete to the to the edge beam first and it will push the water around, suck out from last corner.

More cement, creamier consistency, easier to work, gives a nice fatty surface like melted ice cream. C35 minimum. As will did, no need to powerfloat really, if a slab is out of level it isn’t a miracle cure, it will remove small humps and bumps but it won’t alter poorly levelled concrete.

this is my one.

Longest spans 5m your floor supplier will specify the beams needed, it won’t be on a drawing that’s for the floor supplier to spec then you include that paperwork in with the rest of the junk you give the council. My 5 m span used a wider beam, in the design they space the beams either a full block apart or a block sideways which doubles the amount of beams per room. I wish I had asked for a higher spec by including more beams. There is is nothing wrong with it it feels very solid, however somebody said stand a glass of water at one end of the room and bounce up and down at the other and see if you can see the water move. You definitely can, but it’s not silly like a timber floor it’s just not as good as I would like it. Flowing screed, I have seen 3 local to me, one is bouncy, the other didn’t flow into the corners correctly, that could be down to operator error and not the screeds fault, and the third had cracks in it in various locations, far to-big for me to be happy with it.

It is probably wise to not have one in the conservatory, draughty and could vent ground odour or gasses into conservatory. Look for an alternative position and cut one in if you think it’s needed. The idea is to have adequate airflow under the floor to prevent a damp stale environment, good airflow will not stop it being damp but will prevent it getting out of hand a keep it a bit fresher.

are you saying you haven’t laid the concrete yet ? if that’s the case I cannot see your problem. 50mm pipe out through the wall.

Hasn’t this been specified by the engineer. I would go c35 more cement, creamier finish.

Forget the u value on icf as in my opinion it’s not a fair representation of the finished product.

My beam floor is the biggest item in mine I dislike. I over specified everything apart from the beams and just went with the design given to me, I wish I had of spent a bit more and got bigger beams and reduced the bounce. Probably another £1000-£1500 would have been money well spent. I have gone with 80mm traditional screed, I have a dislike of the flowing screeds and having seen two local to me I’m glad I stuck with what I know.

Crack on son.

@ProDave was thinking about @DerbyLad, you’ve built yours.

Funny how the chain is on backwards.

Would you not cut into the higher part and retain the higher part, not lift the lower bit. Plots of people on here using this method.

It’s all about the little details.

I was hoping @Onoff was going to give me a detailed explanation and then @pocster would comment and then @Declan52 could ban them both. Dam my plan has failed.

What’s a dogger ?‍♂️

Just passing on info I was told.

There should be an m10 nut that screws all the way down that thread and locks the stud against the blue frame.

After you have screwed in the studs did you wind the lock nut down tight to the frame, there should be a nut you wind down to lock the stud to the frame.

Exactly, it’s nice people giving answers to a problem, but really the problem doesn’t exist. You will have a structural engineer you will need a bar bending schedule then you get a few quotes, pay for it and it turns up on a truck. Its that simple, there is no money to be saved bending it yourself, not unless you already have the re bar or you just need one or two bits.