Russell griffiths

I was hoping @Onoff was going to give me a detailed explanation and then @pocster would comment and then @Declan52 could ban them both. Dam my plan has failed.

What’s a dogger ?‍♂️

Just passing on info I was told.

There should be an m10 nut that screws all the way down that thread and locks the stud against the blue frame.

After you have screwed in the studs did you wind the lock nut down tight to the frame, there should be a nut you wind down to lock the stud to the frame.

Exactly, it’s nice people giving answers to a problem, but really the problem doesn’t exist. You will have a structural engineer you will need a bar bending schedule then you get a few quotes, pay for it and it turns up on a truck. Its that simple, there is no money to be saved bending it yourself, not unless you already have the re bar or you just need one or two bits.

Get a bending schedule drawn up and the rebar company will bend it for you. It is absolutely pennies to do, I had hundreds and hundreds or bends, it worked out at £1 per link for the steel and bending. Pits just not worth the agro. It will all come to site ready to tie together.

I didn’t comment earlier as I’ve never built in sips. I have however built two timberframe houses, one of which was in a cyclonic area where wind uplift was a major consideration. Basically you had your corner profiles set out that would have the internal dimension of the walls marked on it. You poured your concrete slab and whilst waiting for this to dry you put a string line up to mark the wall position. You then pushed and wiggle your hold down straps into the concrete at the design locations. As the concrete drys you hand finish around the strap and let it set. The sole plate goes down and the strap should sit up against the inner face of your frame. The last one I did the spec was that the straps extended all the way up to wall plate level to transfer loads. However we don’t get many cyclones in England.

Told ya.

Look for a patching compound, the sort of stuff that comes in a bucket for you to mix will probably consist of powder and a liquid additive. Have a look for stuff you can use on a factory floor that can receive traffic the same day.

This is a standard detail, I will have a couple of these my last house had 3 it’s fairly normal you screed the floor with a fall to the drain, then tanking membrane then tiles, no tray needed. @Onoff has about 16,000 pictures of his.

I’m not sure if I’m looking at this funny, but what is that long telescopic bit between the waste and trap. (expletive deleted) that off in the bin fit the trap up tight chuck that nasty compression fitting that is in the wall in the same place you threw the trap join the new trap to the wall with a couple of solvent weld bends. Baboom job done.

FFS words fail me mate, your winding us up that must be a drawer from a different unit. ??????????????

As peter, take it apart rub it down spray it the colour of the house.

I would draw that plan up but connect it to the rest of the house, it may be the case that you don’t want it all in there, manifolds for example can go under some stairs or in a narrow cupboard as they sit against the wall so don’t take up a lot of depth. A lot of the stuff you mentioned is ugly so you will probably want a plant cupboard in that room, you won’t want it all on show.

Your taps could have two different size threads depending on bath or basin, hep do both sizes. Will remove all that threaded stuff and ptfe and tidy it right up.

Yep, unless you bought a tap from Outer Mongolia.

Do yourself a favour and buy some hep 2o tap flexy then you can get rid of both of those hep fittings. They will push straight on and remove all those threaded bits.

I’m sure I’m not the one contemplating building a flux capacitor out of beer cans. ?‍♂️

Pro daves place is timber frame not sips.

I just thought I would check something. On another group I’m a member of somebody is suggesting that they are going to build an extension with sips then a membrane and then cement boards screwed directly onto the sips, no battens no air gap or cavity. Now I’m sure that is totally wrong but they reckon it’s the correct spec. Who's the lunatic me or them.

Can’t get what deep enough? the block of poly ? cut it. 200mm poly under reinforcement 40mm on top. Fill it with concrete dig out poly and your left with a big void work out tray location and trap, cut out mesh that is in the way fit trap to the 110mm pipe with a bit of 50mm between the two

Just run your 100mm pipe up but set off to one side from where you think the waste will be, cut a block of polystyrene 400mm square and use this as shuttering, pour your slab and you will be left with a 400mm void, this will give you the room to fit your trap and connect up to the 100mm, when all done concrete in place.

Why loose the lift n slides, best thing I have bought so far. Please don’t say bi folds as I will need to give you a swift kick in the nadgers if we ever meet. I paid £2000 for them to fit the door and gable windows, I needed them to do this as the door weighed 250kg and the gable window not a lot less, all the smaller ones you can do yourself. When you get going message me and I will tell you the bits that went a bit wrong.

Your figures might be a bit out on the windows, if you have a hunt for a few topics on windows people list there cost per m, on an average it comes out about £500 per m. It is one item I bought that came in under budget. If you’ve been involved in the building game then ask Chris to get you on a few sites, you will learn loads in an hour just wondering about, the course needs doing but isn’t as good as it should be. find some lads doing a house and volunteer to do a days labouring for free, then go to a pour day, you will learn loads and it will get you thinking on how to do yours. Mine is all up but I would love to do another to get the bits right I was unhappy with.