Russell griffiths

For some reason the nudura icf blocks have a poor u value, when in reality we know they are very good when coupled with good airtightness. all these spreadsheets don’t deal with common sense 180m ground floor, nudura walls, eps in the floor rockwool roof, excellent air test. 5kw Panasonic heat pump.

There won’t be any sag as you have insulation under the tray cut at an angle so the tray is fully supported on the batts. you could change the batts for xps or eps if you want something more rigid.

Make a longer lap joint.

As @Mr Punter said lay it across the full width and build up from that. if you had of brought your concrete up higher you could have just laid it flat across that.

It only looks a lot because it’s all in a small space on the floor, spread it out into it’s correct location and it will look different.

I’ve never used it as nobody does it close enough to me. but when I was doing the research everybody did like a reverse slump, it spreads out on a board and you measure the diameter of the spread.

Why are you not doing a sump test when the truck arrives one bucket full out the truck, slump test, if it fails it goes back. every video I’ve seen on scc the test it as soon as it turns up.

C’mon you must have been drinking de-icer when you thought solar panels would look good on there. 😂😂

You can buy these all pre made by a truss manufacturer just screw a wall plate to the wall and away you go.

Sort of if you want the facia smaller you might have a wall plate running from left to right on top of the gallows brackets that the rafters notch into using a birds mouth cut. its hard to tell the drawing needs to be 3 dimensional really.

Out of 10 how shit would that look. probably a 10, maybe even 11 or 12. c’mon let’s be sensible we all like to make a bit of free electricity but that is a proper nasty.

It is what it is, an old coal shed that’s been bodged about over the years to make the place more liveable, I can’t see any reason to not be able to get a mortgage on it. how much do you want it ? it needs a bit of facia board. it’s probably cold as buggery in there in the winter if it was insulated badly, which it probably has been. get a survey done and see what else is wrong. like half the houses in England they all need knocking down and re building, nut we continue to keep patching them up.

That’s a rendered plinth on the bottom, this needs removing as it’s trapping moisture behind it.

Sort of but not entirely right. your terminology is a bit wrong. the joist in red is a rafter. horizontal in blue is a joist so red one rafter needs a seat cut at the bottom to either sit on top of the blue one (joist) or fix it to the side of the blue one. this will lower your facia height. i would also look for a different tile, the double romans are a pain to get the ends looking neat, they also look too big on a small roof. go for a small concrete tile.

If you have imperial spaced icf then you need to hang your plasterboard American style which is horizontal, not vertical.

Having removed thousands of metres of ivy from all sorts of structures over the years I wouldn’t say this is the worst idea I’ve heard of. You will need a robust frame work as it can become very heavy. I have only seen building damage occur if the building was in a poor state to start or the ivy was left unchecked. for example poor pointing on brickwork, or the ivy getting under the gutter and behind the facia, I’ve seen thousands of pounds worth of damage in these instances. you would need to build into your life a yearly trim, this would need to be the entire face and would involve getting onto the flat roof and cutting back from the copings. i would want it cut with a 200-300 mm clear strip of blockwork showing below the parapet coping, allowing it to get under the coping could be disastrous. you could build in a metal flashing at this level as a boundary.

In the kitchen I put 18 mm osb and didn’t use any plasterboard, the gap between the lower cabinets and the wall cabinets has a splashback that is fixed on with polyurethane adhesive, no plasterboard no skimming.

Normal dot n dab doesn’t stick well to eps, the soudal dot n dab foam does, but it still requires mechanical fixing

I chased most of my cables in, if I did it again I would batten all the walls out. you will need to test lots of screws out if screwing into the nylon webs, most wood screws won’t grip if you over spin them. I have found the exterior screws in wickes grip perfectly as they have a very course thread. look for the 3inch ones if fitting a 25mm batten. no idea why they are imperial sizes.

It’s visable and will be stained to match the rest of the timber, steel wasn’t even an option. I didn’t think it was expensive really.

I have a couple of large beams under a carport i used a kerto beam instead of gluelam, loads cheaper.

If you have half a building up I would roof the lot completely not temporary. get all the posi joists sit them on the walls you have built, sail the sheets over the bit you haven’t built and hold the wall plates up on 4x4 posts, then build the walls up under cover, will help you when the winter comes.

Don’t put a fixing behind the back panel, you will never know it’s there and will never be able to remove a cabinet if you need to.

I did block n beam with standard concrete block and insulation on top, I looked at all these insulated types and concluded that they had two many faults. harder to construct being a major one, standard block n beam is very fast and easy. cost also, if buying a large quantity of blocks you can get the price right down. the only upside I can see to these insulated systems is the height you gain, if you only need to put a 75mm cap sheet on then you save 75mm in floor build up, but that’s hardly a big issue.

Do you need a drain to go in there for the cylinder ?