Russell griffiths

i did this on my icf house 1. Plasterboard 2.service batten 3.pir insulation taped at all joints and sealed to walls 4.was going to be vcl but left this out as I used the pir board to do this. 5.i joist. 6.knauf Omni fit insulation 7.breather membrane 8.counter batten 9.sarking boards- battens 10. Roof covering. This could all all change depending on your roof buildup mine is all vaulted. Be aware of what you will do with ductwork I have had a bit of a drama planning where to put it as I started building before it had all been finalised.

I would not do it how your proposing is there not the option to drop the waste pipe down to where it should be? if not I would fit an inline trap, one with a waterless trap and instead they have a rubber flap to keep smells out, then maybe an air admittance valve on the end of the run. That pipe needs more clips or it will sag.

I personally think the whole design is wrong if all the water coming from the main house roof is being projected onto that flat roof then it should have been designed to take all that extra water i would want to see a box gutter arrangement ro the two back sides of the lantern collecting and guiding the main roof water off to the front edge. Was this an existing roof roof that you have just done a refurb on, it’s poorly designed and poorly executed.

I wouldn’t use flexible, I always found it collects sediment i would use a ridged 110mm pipe, the drain around the property can be flexible if wrapped correctly to prevent silt entering the system, but as it flows away if the run is slight you can get a silt build up.

@PeterW one of these valves will be for the bath, it will operate a spout and a wand, so no problem there, I just want them to work if the input temp is low coming from the cylinder. He is probably unconscious at home as he’s ignoring my witty text messages today.

@PeterW this is all coming from the hep 2 O and hot return saga, when we all discussed that hep was ok on a hot return as it’s blended down and is run around the pipe work at a lower temperature, that’s all good, but are we going to run into problems with shower valves wanting a higher input temp. Might need to wait for @Nickfromwales to sober up to get some input.

Cor some of that Perrin stuff is expensive??

Looking at the one @Onoff mentioned I started to read up on the operating Manuel it states in the manual that the valve requires 60 degree water input, now as far as I’m aware my hot will be getting blended down before it reaches the shower valves. Any thoughts anybody. @Nickfromwales And @PeterW

So like most things in life I seam to be going full circle on choices so im looking for recommendations for quality shower valves, must be fully concealed and good build and maintainability. Cheers. Bored from bored town.

Is that a hotel ?

Same as, with a manifold set up 3 separate cold feeds into bathroom.

@Mr Punter if you have a separate feed to the toilet this shouldn’t be a problem.

What’s people’s thoughts on shower valves that do not have a thermostatic mixer built in. My last plase late we had 3 showers all with just mixing valves but no thermostatic control on them. My thoughts are there are less parts to go wrong, also with less parts they are cheaper i like the idea of cheaper and would like less bits to go wrong. Anybody, got any thoughts.

Have you been on the sherry @joe90 if you reduce the soffit size then surely the length of the roof from ridge to facia will decrease, so the facia gets taller, but the roof gets shorter. But knowing @Onoff maybe he’s thinking of installing a flux capacitor in the void or something.

Am I missing something if you reduce the soffit size, will you not have to change the roof above ??

Why the 9mm osb, I don’t see what it adds. How are you planning on providing an air tight layer, you will need to do something either wet plaster, or a parge coat, or dot and dab done correctly or a vapour control layer you need to do something or your just building a leaky sieve. So really you need to supply something.

So between all the brain power of the forum, if I choose the towel rails I want we will come up with a liquid to fill them and an element to heat them.

Not converting an existing one , but water powered ones are more readily available in more sizes and styles. So im thinking are they all manufactured as a shell and then the element added to just a few as the majority are water powered.

I don’t know, I thought it was a type of oil. When I swapped out a blown element, it was definitely an oily substance.

Happy Christmas peeps. Im looking for towel rails at the moment and most of what I like are water based and run off the heating system, I’m looking for electric ones, now I have seen various heating elements that are used in electric rails. Question is, are these elements compatible with most towel rails and what is the liquid that is inside the rails. Anybody done this or know the score. Ta very much.

a bit like this with a little valley at the Bach.

That’s about as accurate as I get mate, slap it up, looks ok from my house.

still no presents.

bored waiting for present time.

No valley needed you just move the configuration you have there over, so those two hip ends move over to the corner of the extension. If you want a loft conversion you change the hip end for a gable end so it gives you more room in the loft.