Russell griffiths

Chris is a nice lad, he has been to mine a few times. Why would you build a nice house and fit leaky cheap windows.

Why not get rid of the tray and just tank it and tile.

We went with NORSKAN windows, top hung, I really like them. We ave also built with nudura. Whereabouts are you in the country.

Do you mean deep enough, as in you have more than a 150mm step. Re read original post. 300 x6 mm steel 16mm re bar smashed in the ground as stakes, stickwelder and you will have a path for life. If you haven’t got a welder then get the re bar and weld flat tags on them, smash them in the ground and drill through and nut and bolt.

150 x8 mild steel comes in 6m lengths bends nicely and will rust and blend in have done loads of fancy paths with it as edging. You can use 6mm if no vehicles will wallop it.

Why do you want a 9m patio door, the cost will be huge. The maintenance overwhelming, and long term poor insulation and the rest of it. What im basing this on, when we had a house in Australia we had. 6m triple sliding door leading out to the swimming pool, now we are building over here we thought of having the same, then we did some thinking on how many days a year you would open it right up and decided on a smaller door and a picture window, the door is just over 5m and the window 3m, the window comes down low and has a window seat in front of it for sitting and reading on a Sunday morning. My configuration could potentially save you £5-6-7000 as the door cost will be huge but also the steel work above it will be a major bit of engineering, with a central pier you reduce all the costs and hassle.

Tell them you will put a tarpaulin over the exit of the rubbish shoot, this is what is done in pedestrian areas.

I will be perfectly honest and say I think you just dodged a bullet, lucky escape theres better out there,

You will need a pump, not just for the distance from the truck but to get the concrete to all the different parts of the floor slab. Dont even consider a wheelbarrow this needs doing properly

Forget it and fit radiators, you will spend more money heating the ground under the house.

@Jilly you need to insure no moisture enters the roof area the only way to do this is with a robust method of air sealing, if you put the 50mm pir under the rafters tape all the joints together with foil tape, I fitted each sheet to each other with expanding foam fist and then applied the tape. The boards will need to be taped to the walls to make a complete airtight box.

For future reference never cut a tree that close to the ground, cut it off at 6 feet high so you would’ve had some leverage.

Don’t even think about it diy block laying isn’t going to happen, if you have no experience in this but you want to have a go then you need to go ICF blocks your block work will be weaving about like a donkeys hind leg. Ive had years of bricklaying experience and I knew that my house on my own would be too much, so I built in icf, it’s the same type of skills, must be level plumb straight. But the good bit is you get time to adjust things until you are happy, then pour the concrete, with brickwork you don’t get much time for adjusting before it’s pissed and gone off, then the only thing is to knock it down and try again. If you have little experience then you need a timberframe kit erected or icf and get a team to help you finish.

De humidifier???

Start searching Facebook under alternative living groups.

Reading this on the speakers I can see why 100% I will just use a cordless Bluetooth speaker. KISS.

Mcalpine do a number of these wet room traps, I’m just fitting a couple in this house and have used them in another place. However they are mostly for screened floors and not a former, you will need to buy one and see if you can fit it to your former.

Depends how much the houses are you are looking at. £5-6-7-8-900,000 House will cost you £400,000plus. land will be £300,000 plus. so your going to spend £7-800,000 but you will have a better house, so it could be a way of getting another step up the ladder.

In mine I have ventilated strip of stainless mesh at eaves and a ventilated top flashing, it’s all part of the metal roofing system.

Not if it’s ventilated as per his drawing, he has it ventilated above his membrane below the osb. This is a standard method with metal roofs.

Nothing to do with disabled regs, but try not to have doors directly built off the side of another wall, always have a sub of wall before the doorframe, otherwise the door will never open fully, and you will also have problems putting architrave around the frame.

I thought there where lots of us that had done it ourselves i did all mine and I know of two others who have done the lot.

I think you need two different trades here, your window fitters won’t be interested in fixing any poor work unless they have quoted for it previously, they will want to chuck them in and foam them up and run away, they will probably be subbie fitters working for the window company. I would rip out everything first and see what you are dealing with then work out a plan on how to fix the reveals, if that means another builder then he needs to be there to fix the mess as the windows are ripped out.

Have you had a quote of anybody saying this is how long it will take.

@ToughButterCup approach is right, nobody will care as much as you, however he’s maths needs a bit of working. I think he’s been drinking de-icer again. If he thinks he’s putting up 50m a day then that will lead you to believe you can do it in 5 days. If you believe that then you will be in for a shock. I built an 11m long by 2.4m high wall one afternoon just as a tester, it took two hours and I was amazed how it flew up. So how come it took another 7 weeks to get the rest up to 2.7m ready for the first pour. After the first pour it took another 4 weeks to finish. So 11 weeks that was 2 men for 3 days a week and me on my own for 2 days.