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Everything posted by Russell griffiths
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Mine is like this.
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Roll of plastic up the front of the house, 2 cubic metres of weak concrete build the ramp to spec, get it signed off pull the ramp out and chuck it in a skip. pain in the arse, but I completely don’t agree with these regs so just work around it.
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The rough work should be underground, by the time he’s at dpc I would want it within 5mm from corner to corner. so if you have a box one corner can go down 5mm and then up to the other corner, I don’t mean it progresses down or up around the building until he is 20 mm out. 5mm overall. why don’t you put a stake in with dpc marked on it at every corner. he should work from that height down not from the concrete up.
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You say diy project does that mean you are laying the screed, what sort of area do you have.
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Panasonic ASHP doesn't vibrate!
Russell griffiths replied to Mr Blobby's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
If you stood 3 feet away from mine you would not know it’s running, you have to actually put your hand in front of the fan to feel the air blowing. -
Hold the chunk of timber up to the ceiling on a couple of props measure up from floor both ends and mark the timber use a block of timber to scribe the ceiling contour on to your length of timber plane it to fit.
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Keep it wet, keep the u bend completely full, if you let the air get to it it will harden. get a piece of 15 mm hep 2 pipe and ram it around the trap, back and forth take detailed timing of how long this takes and charge the flooring contractor you really are attracting some muppets.
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Why not use a thicker board 25mm and carve the back out to match the stone work.
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Bond it on with spray foam, then when it has gone off squirt more foam in the voids, I would not go thinner than 12mm too floppy.
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Use a paint whisk in a drill not the big mixer, takes 30 seconds to spin it around in a bucket of water to clean it. easier to keep a bag opened than a tub that is shite in the first place and will get crusty bits in it if you open and close it all the time.
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morning people. I have two of these cabins that I’m about to fully strip out and refurbish, aprox 7x6 m one large bedroom en-suite and the rest open plan kitchen diner. I need to work out how to heat them and how to supply hot water to them. there is no town gas on site, but we could use some form of lpg if we had to. no solar available as they are in a wooded area. currently an electric shower and a copper cylinder with immersion heater. I need. 1. Heat in a bedroom/ en-suite 2. heat in an open plan kitchen diner 3. Hot water water shower 4.Hot water basin 5. Hot water kitchen sink insulation is terrible, it will be getting better but not to a good standard, just not enough room or budget. a woodburner could be on the cards for heating but also aesthetic reasons as punters love a woodburner. thoughts people please.
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Roof/box gutter interface
Russell griffiths replied to Bancroft's topic in Rainwater, Guttering & SuDS
I like roofs to shed the water off the building, box gutters keep the water in board and in my opinion are a recipe for disaster extend the rafters have a facia outside the wall edge and stick a nice looking gutter on it. these details look lovely on paper, but a year after you move in you will never look up there again. -
Angle grinder with a diamond blade, grind out the bed and lap the membrane in then re point it. I won’t tell anybody if you don’t. 😜
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Angled Drain Pipe into Kitchen Cupboard
Russell griffiths replied to Spinny's topic in General Plumbing
Fit trap to sink, use two 45 bends to realign with floor waste. cut a large trap door 200x200 in cupboard floor, sort the pipework then make a nice cover trim to go over the 200 hole, it’s far easier than trying to cut a 50 mm hole and getting it all to line up. especially if you are using the same monkey knuckle draggers you had to install that pipe.
