Russell griffiths

Mine all came very wobbly. they won’t be straight down the length until you install them as they bend way more than you would expect. most of mine had a crown in them that you mark and put the crown facing up. but I would not expect them to be up and down, just a slight crown up is fine. once the ends are secured you need some fairly substantial blocking to take the wobble out. I hope you don’t have much mvhr to run through them.

Can you buy the rubber bung separately and retrofit them to the gulley you have.

Spray it on. go and get a forced action sprayer from the hire shop. look at some American YouTube it’s common practice over there.

With the amount of good flexible liquid coatings available I think I would forget the pain of the Tony tray and just paint around the joists when it is all up and the roof is on. you could spray airtight paint around them and that would get every nook and cranny.

Electrician planned it all really all cable runs to led strip is flex as a bit of it is 5 core for colour change strip, I think white only requires 2-3 cores cable is relatively cheap take everything back to a central location, no need to hide drivers in cupboards or under kick boards. Robus is the make of the controler units. if I was to build this again I would not bother with 75% of what we installed, never use them, spend most night with a couple of table lamps on. do you actually need lights in cupboards lighting up some old shite tea set the wife was given. and for the life of me I don’t know why anybody thinks lights under the plinth in the kitchen is a good idea. I think I could have scrapped about £2000 worth of pointless lights we installed.

Get a copy of the Calder lead guide, very useful booklet. probably available online.

All our drivers and led controls are in a central location with a flex running to the led strips. no driver or control needed near the strips. All dimming and colour changes done on an app, al switching on and off from a switch on the wall.

Have you seen the plastic box that sits in the ground, the tap is underground as well as a roll of house pipe all enclosed in the plastic box.

Haven’t read this all but just as a quick one, instead of a central glue lam, change all rafters to kerto beams, they will span longer, will not warp and twist, will come straight. they will need painting as they may not be that attractive unfinished. just a quick thought to chuck in the mix.

Do you mean the gap between the door stop and the door which I think you do or the gap around the door to the lining. if you have fitted the door into the lining and now need to fit the door stop, the standard gap to leave for four coats of paint would be the thickness of a thin credit card, or an old business card, aprox 3quarters of a mm. 2-3mm gap is the gap between door and lining.

You don’t. there is absolutely no reason to be heating your water to that temp, so expansion is not a thing to worry about.

These older houses can be built with lime mortar and a bit of movement is expected, stitch something together ridgid and you move the cracks to another part of the property. im no structural engineer but have been removing trees from properties for the last 40 years when the finger gets pointed at the tree, I’ve been on sites where you could shake hands with the neighbours through the cracks in the walls 😂😂

You can buy any thickness of EPS you need and in any density that is required. you should not be looking in the builders merchants but instead an EPS manufacturer. there’s one called something like B AND P EPS.

What do you want to know, shrinkable soil, shallow foundations, two of the driest summers on record. there is going to be some serious insurance claims in the next few years.

I thought some of the manufacturers of these sheets supply the ends with the insulation cut back, you 100% don’t want the insulation exposed, creatures will chomp at it, definitely needs a flashing over it.

We chased in and fitted conduit, loads of messy work, but I feel it makes the plasterboard feel more solid, by fitting the boards directly to the icf without a void. if you use sodal squirty foam behind the boards it bonds directly to the icf as well as screwing.

Forget fitting any additional insulation it is 100% not needed, forget the u value of nudura blocks for some reason it just looks poor on paper, they don’t add additional insulation in Canada you certainly won’t need it. you will wonder why you fitted a heating system at all once you move in, sort the airtightness and heating will be the least of your worries.

Why not put the tilting filler under the ply rip a 300-400 mm strip of ply and tilt that up behind the facia, on top of this goes an eaves tray then membrane on top of the eaves tray. I believe you can get eaves tray and vent strip in one now, but I’ve never used them.

Well yea, loads of bits I missed out, but it should get him going in the right direction.

Mine came with a bit heavy duty black neoprene type bung that had a hole pre cut in the centre a bit of a tight fit that I rammed inside the duct.

TBH that drawing is all a bit wrong delete out the two battens at the bottom they won’t be there lift the facia up to 25mm below the bottom tile add an over facia vent on top of the facia to make up the 25mm height.

Easier and quicker to go and buy a new pop up waste and fit it, 15 minute job.

There’s a mini hanger called either a TRIPLE GRIP or MULTI GRIP it’s a small metal plate with a cut in it that can be used in many ways, but by bending it with a hammer you can get 3 fixing points out of it, hence why I call them triple grips. they are about £1.50 each. fix with twist nails.

I used the zinzer perma white, no complaints so far. make sure you properly dust down that contract shite.

I ordered a couple of high end easily damaged things for the house and found out that the company had gone back to employing its own delivery driver in there own van, they said it was far cheaper than all the damaged stuff from couriers. I think more companies should be looking at this.