Dreadnaught

Good point about the audible gurgling noise with a combined trap. However, one advantage of a combined trap is the washing-machine liquid keeps the sink trap nice and clean. Sink traps are especially prone to drain-gunk build-up over long periods. If the gurgling can be tolerated in, say a closed-door utility room, I wonder if this benefit outweighs the downside?

I plan to make my own. As @temp did, I have quotsd to have a mirror made to my size requirements. And with two frosted sections for LED linear profiles which I have built in to the wall. Those LED lights are wired back to the main light switch. I will also add de-mister pads. The result should be a thin mirror tight to the wall similar to the design you seek but without the bluetooth music.

Yes, mostly solo here. Am at first fix. Only trades … Screw piles Concrete raft pouring Timber frame Roofing (for the guarantee) Heat pump fitter (for grant, could have done it myself) Tiling (large format bathroom wall tiles. Plastering And had some help with … groundworks labourer UFH pipe a small amount of labouring with brick slips cladding a small amount of first fix carpentry (to show me a few things) a small amount of tacking (to speed me up with the rooflight reveals) All else me. For second fix, I expect to use these trades … Electrician - sign-off only (I am pulling all cabling) LVT flooring fitter Decorator Paver (for drive)

Beware the bending radius's of fat python-like insulated double pipes! If I had my time again, I'd probably go with a pair of insulated single pipes because of it.

I am following this with interest as was thinking to have a photowall mural in my study. Anyone have a photowall mural without these problems I wonder?

I used to 20mm flexible conduit to snake through my open-web joists and then down inside wall cavities (MF walls). For the longest runs (about 15m) it was a devil to get the cable through but persevered and succeeded in the end after trying every method I could think of. Short runs were easy. Still worth it I thought because to replace the cable would be a process of attaching the new cable to the old and pulling backwards through the conduit, which should be easier than what I just did. I am terminating each cable to an ethernet euro-module wall socket mounted in a back box at each end. And have bought a bunch of short cat-6 patch cables from China for then connecting those sockets to the switches, etc. In terms of topology, I decided not to have a single "data cabinet" with a single patch panel. Instead I am running trunk cabling around the house to three different locations, there to have an 8x port switch (2.5 Gbps, passive, fan-less) in a discreet location. Three 8-port switches in total: one in my Plant Room, one in the coat cupboard in my living room, and one in a wardrobe in Bedroom 2. This gives me the number of ports I need. In each location I have a pair of double ethernet euro-sockets mounted in the wall, matched with a double power outlet for powering the switch and a spare power outlet. Personally I like this distributed mini-patch-panel approach – simpler, less cable. And with this approach there is no termination to RJ45s. Instead just push-down in to Euro modules – fiddly but easy. And buying pre-made patch cables for reliability.

Rule of thumb: "no more than two rooms and two walls between access points". From here. I agree with everyone: PoE APs (ideally on ceiling) with ethernet wiring back to switch is the one to choose. For ethernet, I am choosing Cat-6 cable and 2.5 Gbps switches for a bit of future-proof-ing. I am also ducting the backbone cabling and the cables to the APs for the same reason.

Blum Legrabox on Movento Runners (the best) or just Blum Antaro on Tandem Runners?

As others have said, yes you can. But note that I think that it must be an MSC-certified installation… so for example a DIY-install is unlikely to be an option if you want the grant.

@NewbieJ, you may have misunderstood how (and why) and pre-heater works. A pre-heater is to ensure that the heat exchanger doesn't freeze up in the coldest weather. The heat generated does not however enter the house, the majority of it instead heads straight out of the exhaust port as that is how heat exchangers work. If your pre-heater was accidentally running when it shouldn't, it might possibly explain (at least part) of your overly high power consumption. But it would show not as warm air to the house but actually as surprisingly warm air at the exhaust port to the outside. A post-heater is different – that one heats the house.

Oh, please do!

No, that's all I have. Would suggest contacting them for more information. I have no link to the product. Just thought it might be interesting for some. I'd consider using it if I was doing another build with a raft foundation on screw piles.

Here is the PDF for those interested … Enviga Thermo Screw Pile™ Flyer (2025).pdf

@IanR, he sent me a PDF on it. If you're interested I am sure he'd send it to you too. There is an enquiry form on the (pretty minimalist) website.

My house is built on 26 screw piles. I was just chatting with my piles designer and he mentioned a new product he is offering: piping for a ground-source heat pump (GSHP) built-in to the screw piles used for a foundation. I thought it was be a nice solution. If you're planning to build a screw-piled raft foundation, you an add in GSHP loops for a low marginal extra cost. He is based in East Anglia. https://www.enviga.co.uk