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After so much stress for so long, I'd forgotten what it felt like to enjoy this self build. I've not felt joy in it since the first day of raising the frame. After more than a year I felt it again and am compelled to post. It isn't done, but I can see it'll eventually be a home.

Curves can look good but they need to be built up with bonding first and then skimmed to look right. Did a big room in roof conversion a year or so back and this was the en-suite ceiling junction

I'm very grateful for your post because thats often what I feel. Its the first few minutes of almost every day that are the hardest: pick up yesterday's cockups and postponed items how the Hell do I do that ? - (that one NEVER stops) what am I forgetting? couldn't I do that cheaper, better, faster, neater? And yet, I am deeply concious that many would give their eye teeth to be able to do what I'm doing. We are, as a group, immensly priviledged. Thank God for a supportive partner: without her I would have gone under long ago. BuildHub helps us stay sane too. Looking at those images of yours gave me a bit of a boost. Thanks. Ian

Was all done using a full kwikstage platform built in the room, basically from wall to wall. The sides of the chimney breast were a challenge but they were extended out using side extensions on the scaffold and a double layer of boards. This was when it was being taken down.

We usually put a skim on the ceiling edge

Plasterers can cover up almost anything to be honest, however, here it looks like the diagonal piece should have been a bit higher and the horizontal piece cut back a bit so the join was level, the issue you will have here is if he plasters that out, he will end up having to build up the material across the horizontal sheet a fair bit to get the level looking right, and you will always then have a uneven section which may show against the wall depending on finishing and eye lines etc. Personally I would have done that in a single piece by scoring and snapping the piece but not broken it off to get a really nice straight line. Straight sharp lines look better, curved lines look like you were trying to hide a mess and he will not than you for that if he is there to do a skim coat as that will need built up.

it's hard to recommend what to get as it's such a personal thing and all depends on how much you want to spend and what it will also be used for etc. i.e. if you're going to use it for a media server using something like Plex for example, are those processors good enough to transcode video on the fly? or would you be better off trying to find something with an i3 or better cpu? I'm not sure how the Atom processors compare with the Celerons either but I'm sure there are benchmarks out there that can tell you. Although the specs seems to allude that if you are going to use it for something like that then the Celeron cpu seems to be able to handle it, assuming you believe the marketing that is! I'd say 2 network ports should be fine and having the 2 M.2 NVMe slots will help as you can add some SSD storage if/when funds become available. I use my slots (albeit via a PCIe card) as an SSD cache to speed up access to the HDDs but I don't know if Synology have this feature. so, all in all, on a basic comparison of those above I'd say the 918+ or 1018+ would suffice. I wouldn't bother with using 4 disks in a Raid 1 configuration though. the chances of 2 disks going in the time it takes to buy a new disk and replace a single failed drive is very slim! if you want a single disk just for the NVR then just configure 3 disks in a Raid 5 configuration leaving the one disk for the NVR. You'll end up with the same total capacity but still have a dedicated drive just for the NVR. if you are worried about losing all your data with 2 drives going then I'd simply advise to get some form of external HDD to backup your critical data to. I do this for my documents and photos. stuff that is too valuable to potentially lose. my movies and music and software can all be replaced but the photos and docs are irreplaceable. hope this helps.

Thanks all Solid wood due to us wanting a continuous seam of wood from floor through to the stairs. We got wind of a timberyard that specialises in reclaimed wood via some other fellow self-builders. Very affordable approach to our desire for a natural floor upstairs. Cost less than engineered wood even. Went to see them and by chance saw some ash offcuts they had from another job. Near perfect match for the windows and just the right amount of pattern in it. Did a 180 and went for new wood rather than reclaimed as a consequence. Exceeded budget, but worth it. Polish team (UK resident) and ash imported from there too. Some of the best trades I've had period.

So finally managed to update the blog. Seems like nothing happened , but a bit of progress still. Now just have to get this monstrosity past Building Control . Challenging task but I will manage. As always. I can tell I will not become a Groundworker in this life . Or the next. http://tintabernacle.blogspot.com/2020/05/rc-beam-or-ringbeam-preparation.html Here are some entertaining pics from this : Above ground shuttering takes a bit of timber Give over - it s gonna be inside a pile of concrete anyways ? Let s just assume this will hold.

The extension, built in 1981, runs along the line of the old scullery that was there beforehand. You may infer from the attached diagram that the old scullery's exterior probably aligned with the furthermost line of the party wall.

If it's your extension that you had built, presumably on your property, why would it be a party wall? Unless there's some agreement that you built partly on your neighbours yard, surely it's all yours? Or is that a whole new debate...?

No problems. What size, 3XL & ruined? http://dildo-generator.com/

I used to buy 25mm or 50mm too deep joists and cut from the middle to 25 or 50 down one end and put the bit back on the other end to make a firinged joist MIN FALL 1 IN 40 AND NO PUDDLES

It would be helpful to know more about the structure of the wall and the proposed means of fixing, but I can't see an obvious reason why damp - or anything else - would be a significant risk. The biggest long-term issue could be rust staining, but stainless steel fixings could be used to avoid that. The biggest source of potential 'damage' would probably be the formation of green algae in the shade of plants grown next to the wall, but you can't stop a neighbour growing plants (unless, perhaps, ivy gets seriously out of hand).

Like I said offer's there. This is typical: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/cover-fan-air-conditioner-grille-pour-air-climatise

Could I maybe 3D print you something? Just made my mate an insert to go on his stairs wall for a low down, recessed occupancy sensor. All I'd need is OD and ID of the pipe and some idea of the hole pattern you want. VID-20200512-WA0002.mp4

@AnonymousBosch Ian, whatever you decide to use for the connection I'd recommend from personal experience that you use a long length of pipe as your final pipe into the tank rather than a short stub. The reason is that the backfill around your Biopure won't be as well compacted as your main drain trench base. You don't want any localised settlement right under a joint in your incoming sewer pipe.

Do you have a fireplace that has a chimney in that stack or is that solely for his use? If you have use of that stack then it's shared and the centre line of the stack is the boundary. If the stack is entirely his, then the boundary would normally be on your side of the stack. I say normally because there are cases where the boundary can dog-leg inside the houses.

Yep it will be nas 2 a copy of essential files from nas 1

The ones that tell you that you are lucky are the ones going down the pub while your working your nuts off!,!!!!!!!

Heathen..!!! Grey with terracotta pipe..???!!! What kind of dress sense do you have..??!! Any CT1 to be honest is fine, but watch for getting it inside the pipe unless you can reach down the pipe and clean it off.. May be worth adding a stub to the tank that you can then use a "normal" connector on to. Baby wipes and Multisolve are your friend here.

CT1 - Or lots of good quality silicone, not your cheapo Wilko stuff

+ 1 Billion. I appreciate the priviledge: we had our application accepted - our neighbour refused (at Appeal). People who emphasise luck may well, I think, be referring to their fantasy of what self-building could be.

I think equestrian buildings are specifically from the agricultural conversion provisions.

Never understood the bit with the finances at the start and end. Charlie always mentioned you have saved £x. Surely if your building the dream then you have no intention of selling. I prefer that show where they build for £100k.

That is actually counter intuitive - put too many screws in a plasterboard and it will fracture along the line. @wozza there are a few more ... This is the ceiling between two curved sections and a wall... And a 5.3m vaulted ceiling When it was finished it was nicknamed the chapel of St Andrew the Plasterer .. Pretty lucky that he is a perfectionist and also very reasonably priced too ..!! We had to do very little prep for paint on this - probably saved 3-4 days labour.

V2 looks much better ?

V 2 ?

sorry, I didn't realise (or simply forgot) that the 1019+ is a 5-drive NAS! in that case I would probably suggest going for 4 x disks in a Raid 10 configuration as he'll benefit from better write AND read performance over RAID 5. then there is still the single drive for the NVR if required, or it can be configured as a hot spare. obviously, if you do configure the 4 x drives as RAID 10 you won't be able to add the extra spare drive if space becomes an issue as RAID 10 needs an even number of disks. Also RAID 10 will basically lose half the number of disks in total storage space. so 4 x 10TB disks in RAID 10 will give 20TB of usable space. whereas RAID 5 will lose only 1 disk and therefore give you 30TB of usable space. personally, I think 20TB should be enough and would rather go for RAID 10 to get the better read and write performance. but, then in that case and if the NVR is going to be part of the RAID 10 disks a 4-disk NAS might be better! see, it's never simple. this is a useful little RAID calculator (http://raid-calculator.com/default.aspx) that will show the benefits of the various RAID levels in case, like me, your memory can't remember them all!

That is a nicely executed curve to be fair!

That is completely normal in fact yours looks cleaner than most. Could be a lot rustier without any issues. It would be a complete waste of time to clean in any way.

That is fine - crack on

Yeah - I went for Raid 10 across 4 drives mostly because my NAS is on Linux and I'm using btrfs which I love, but I don't fully trust its RAID 5 support (and probably never will as it looks like the winds are blowing towards zfs these days). Also I had some bad experience with Raid 5 on my old Infrant ReadyNAS that got slower over time but was a real pickle to convert back from. With the 1019+ my inclination would be same -- even start out with 4 or even three drives in Raid 5, put the NVR on it too, see how that goes and consider how to use the remaining 2 bays as space and speed demands evolve. I'll watch how you get on with interest! I'm sure 8GB RAM is plenty, but having seen the table above the lack of future expansion on this is the only hesitation I'd now have on it. (Full disclosure, I installed Home assistant on a Virtual Box VM (on ubuntu) yesterday , as they're deprecating the docker install I was using, and while it runs absolutely fine the act of carving out 2GB dedicated to the VM did make me twinge rather).

The thing is with this and everything else with building a house you can go round and round . Reading , asking questions , then reading more ! . Eventually you have to purchase . I read up on those nas reviews last night ; watched some videos - so at some point gotta put your money where your mouth is ! Will report back once setup

sounds like you're as impatient as I am sometimes! enjoy and I hope it does the job.

You guys were all quite interested in this at the time and John's nudge has prompted me to do a model of the kitchen and calc the lighting, this is mainly for you @SteamyTea as I know you were keen on the theory and calcs and I know @ragg987 you were interested on lighting levels. When I posted this at first I did not have the kitchen design finalised so I can now use the kitchen layout drawing to create a good model of the space (complete with kitchen and worktops) where I can then check the theoretical light level on the surface (lighting calcs are always prepared with a carefully calculated reduced light source to allow for many factors up to and including dust in the room) which will in fact be slightly less than real world light levels on day one. Once done I will post it all and let you know on this post so you can find it.

You’ve resolved our arguments for what materials to use for the staircase ? we thank you! ????? looks AWESOME

X marks the spot where you need to build it... (Sorry ? )

Try MPC Services in Heanor for the treatment tank. Not much you need a consultant for tbh - water flows down hill, and it need to go somewhere ... shouldn’t be difficult to DIY.

Is it currently agricultural land over 5 hectares? If so you don't need planning to put an agricultural building on the land but it has to be for agricultural use and more than 25m from a road. In a few years you could then apply to convert part of it. In 10 years it might well qualify for Permitted Development Rights to convert it to a new dwelling.

ah, I took that to mean the chimney and mast were his??? Which? Both?

If it's his mast on your chimney stack did you give him permission to put it there?

+1 Unlikely to be anything to do with the air flush pipe. As @Nickfromwales said it could be one of three things.. 1) Float adjusted too high so water goes down the overflow. Unlikely to be this if you can hear it opening every 10 mins. 2) Fill valve leaking so float is underwater and water goes down the overflow. Unlikely to be this if you can hear it opening every 10 mins. 3) Flush valve leaking so so it's letting water past into the pan. Could be dirt in there, try flushing it if not done already. Some are designed to be serviced through the flush plate, others with remote flush buttons you have to provide an access panel.

Sounds like the turn screw adjuster on the fill ( float ) valve is set too high and water is getting to the top of the overflow pipe and then discharging to the WC pan. Can you remove the flush plate, and then observe if the water is indeed getting to the top of the internal overflow ? That pipe should be dead centre of the cistern when you look inside. If it’s not getting to that height and the unit is brand new, it’s likely the cistern flush valve insert isn’t seated properly. Check Grohe / YouTube for service info and follow that. They’re quite informative. I fit Geberit routinely so am a not completely familiar with Grohe stuff, sorry.

Mine has a "don't you even think of doing that" look.

That’s the one Beautiful oak frame Looked like kitchen units where made of pallets Tin roof instead of Slate No double sided wood burner

Tried this option - all I got was 'busy on farm' - not been about enough to get pally with people yet ?‍♂️ Just winds me up when people come at me with problems rather than solutions/options. This is his bread and butter, it's not his first time at the rodeo so I expect options rather than teeth sucking - all that does is get my back up!

I would hire a tile bumper what is in your agreement with the roofer maybe he should hire a tile bumper if I was paying him by the day I would hire it if you have a fixed price he should hire it.

1. Reasonable 2. No chance. 25-50 if they can be bothered. It will be better if the lads laying the concrete are also laying the blocks. 3. Should be spot on if you use a surveyor, bricky and a tape, could be anywhere I have seen a wall built completely on the wrong side of a line, so 100 mm out of place, check it before proceeding. 4. Are you talking below dpc or face work. 5. As above 6. I’ve actually seen pipes the wrong side of a wall so toilet pipe in the room next door. My answers are based on 30 years of working in the real world not downloading the latest government guidelines. I would do two things in your case 1. forget your an engineer, it’s a house not a spaceship 2. Get all critical points marked on a set of plans including pipe locations, then get a surveyor to mark these out as the job proceeds, choose the most local company to your site so a visit to site can be done in under an hour, I had 4 site visits for setting out and the bill was about £370. You are looking at some points with to much detail but have not listed things that in my opinion are far more important. Footing level is not not important at all, a bricky can cope with 50mm out of level and in 3-4 courses of blocks underground he will correct it no problem. However you have no mention of floor level, this is a far more critical point, there are many on here that have been dissatisfied with the finishing on a floor with many bags of levelling compound needed. Also door threshold levels, these are crucial to getting a seamless finish. I would relax a bit on tolerance until you get up to dpc get it set out correctly and triple check it. A simple thing but something people may not be aware of, your architectural drawings come in layers that are drawn on at stages as the architect designs the house. For a couple of extra quid you can get the layers removed to give you simplified drawings So you can get all layers removed to just give you a foundation layout then one that just shows corners for blockwork, which can incorporate pipe locations

I didn't do mine but our architect produced quite a lot... Lots of sections through key areas. Eg showing foundations, Walls and floors, beams and lintels, cavity trays and closures, damp proof courses and membranes. Calculations for any universal beams (aka RSJ). Specifications for bricks and blocks (density of blocks and frost rating of bricks I think?) Drainage layout showing stacks, approx pipe runs, inspection chambers. Think we only had to provide U-Values for elements when we built our house but think you now need to provide SAP and predicted EPC? If any of the construction is non standard you may get asked to show how it complies with Part E sound. To avoid them asking you to do a sound test at the end (with risk of failure) you can provide so called Robust Design Detail drawings which I think you have to pay for. Before you do that try asking the company selling you insulation to see if they have a Robust Detail Drawing that matches your construction detail (or change your design to match their drawing?). This shouldn't be necessary if you are using reasonably standard construction. If its three storey there may need to be some detail drawings to show compliance with part B. Fire rated doors? You might consider telling the BCO you have a pretty good idea what's required but ask if he has a check list? Edit: Sorry I'm talking about England. Not sure how Scotland differs.