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About Patrick

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  • About Me
    Trying to build a House

    Apart from giving and receiving advice on this forum,
    I am offering professional services
    to the public through
    including distribution of
    -Metal Roofing Material
    -Windows LOW E
    -I BEAMS
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  1. I can't comment on the quality of this one as I on purpose put a link from random ebay seller to not create a conflict of interest, but generally we use this kind of thing all the time on our roofs, corrugated and box profile, and it works perfect.
  2. I will test it out. I went down the labour intensive route with every step so far. Some did save a bit of money, some came out the same price. All together still savings to be made. Unless you calculate your own work, but just look at everybody on this forum, houses wouldn't be built and budgets could have never been kept without the time and efforts you put into the building yourself. In case you haven't seen it yet, different topic discussions about the block and beam insulation
  4. @Moonshine I am doing Insulated block and beam and tried forever and a day to buy insulation only (the blocks that are "t-shaped" in order to fit them). Nobody is selling them on itself. Only the whole floor system, and then they have a markup on every item involved, which ends up approx 70-80% more expensive than a traditional block and beam with cheap insulation on top (what @Russell griffiths Is doing) Insulation is the most expensive bit in this calculation so it matters where you get it from. The companies that do the floorsystems (jet floor, beamshield, Tetris,...) Charge a premium on top of regular eps prices which isn't little. I didn't start yet, but I am thinking of doing exactly as you mentioned. Get the board cheap from either seconds and Co or from a eps supplier and cut them to size. Yes-I expect this to be labour intensive and certainly buying the ready floor is quicker. It s just a matter of how much you normally earn in your day job and if you rather make that money doing overtime or if you spend it on your house - it obviously makes no sense saving 1000ยฃ on material and spending 5 days of work if you are an architect ๐Ÿ˜‹ You rather work an hour to make that extra grand. I will keep you updated with the progress.
  5. I think this how every good Buildhub story starts. ๐Ÿ˜‹๐Ÿ˜ Welcome
  6. I was looking into exactly the same but stayed away from it. 1. Woodfibre boards are expensive (blown in Woodfibre isn't, unless you buy it from an eco-merchant which will put 150% margin on top cause its eco) 2. Fixing them and then outside cladding is another step, extra work, extra trouble. I decided to rather increase the size of the walls and eliminate the thermal bridging (as far as reasonable) . can be done like @Jeremy Harris and others done, with MBC frame, who are using some sort of Larsen Truss, or others like@Simplysimon Using i-beams (me as well). There are a few advantages in the blown in insulation over rolls, boards or sheets Mentioned plenty of times: -it will get in every corner and have a tight fit. Too much of other types of insulation are down to your or the installers fitting skills. I believe the blown in is also a bit of a time saver as its quicker installed. Alternatively you could use spray foam and get the same pros than blown in insualtion, but for me it wasn't right as I don't trust the chemistry of it. It s not tested long enough for me to be sure that it's safe (somebody - asbestos?) I think if you have the space, straw insualtion could work excellent, and in case you got a sheep farm, wool works very well, but in all other cases there really is a strong argument for blown in insualtion.
  7. Hemp is quite expensive AFAIK and not really the greatest insulation product. If you want something natural and organic it's probably better to use sheep wool. Loads on here, incl myself, are using blown in cellulose, alternatively blown in wood fibre. Both fairly good insulation, quite cheap, and low poisoning. I wanted something that apart from easy installation, price, also has little off gasping and is potentially the least poisonous
  8. Tbh there are quite a few around as far as I can see. You not sticking out enough. Maybe put a few gold painted pillars next to the front drive to make it more obvious ๐Ÿ˜ You got any plans that are prioritised which you want to start first?
  9. OK. Just to make it less misterious for others, that s around Trowbridge end, closer to Somerset than to Swindon. @MatthewPikeGive me a shout if you need any bad advise or a shoulder to cry on ๐Ÿ˜‹ Best of luck with any project you're planning.
  10. In Wiltshire as well. Welcome. Which end?
  11. Just had a quote from ccf for 10.59+ vat. Some are really taking the pi**.
  12. Makes sense as even B&q sometimes got some crazy special offers. They had insualtion lift roll at some point for 8-9ยฃ/roll. A few years back and very cheap stuff but still less than half price that regular BM sells it for. Just because they where shifting by the ton. Was something like a winter catalogue frontpage special. sometimes these diy stores have surprisingly good offers, just don't EVER pick up anything else "while you're there" as that will eliminate all savings. ๐Ÿ˜‹๐Ÿ˜‹
  13. I had a look over this ones again and just can't find any decent answers on here, maybe just keep missing it. But what is the problem with OSB on the outside. I was originally planning to use standard osb3 for sheeting, as so many other houses are build with it. Plywood on the outside even better as more vapour permeabel but also much more expensive. It s disputed how vapour open or vapour closed OSB is, at least I couldn't find a clear guidance on it. Common rule seems to be that OSB3 is too vapour permeabel to use as a vapour control layer on the inside on its own (even though that's still being done) and at the same time, it has been mentioned that OSB is too vapour tight to use as outside sheeting - not letting enough vapour out (still a lot of houses, even passivhouses, are build with osb3 sheeting on the outside). Also been looking for any fact sheet of the phenolic resin plywood but can't find any tests or details about its vapour permeability. (tried to read and understand the metsawood sheet you posted @Simplysimon But it doesn't make much sense - had to use this : To calculate what the ยต in the metsawood paper actually mean). still not sure if it now is a good air barrier or not. Got in touch with some producers of these boards and waiting for a reply.
  14. You always can use your VAT return to buy him a Passivhaus Catflap. Won't be much left of your VAT return after that but you sure got the poshest catflap up and down the country.