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About Visti

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  1. Nothing in the building regs that I know of. Ask them to quote the Reg part and paragraph and you'll get a clear message as to whether it is needed or not
  2. Vinyl is cheaper if you DIY it for certain (£30-60/m2 depending on where you get it), though we found that if you've got to pay for surface treatment and installation on top you're actually only about £5/m2 away from a resin or microcrete option at ~80/m2. Check out Flexcrete if interested. We found the labour for the glued panels about £18/m2 for installation, and another £18/m2 if you need to prep the underlying surface.
  3. Why not 75mm in a 89mm stud? As long as the mineral wool isn't compressed it should be fine.
  4. @Tom's Barn the battens were all fixed through the external timber marine board and external membrane down to the joists themselves, both vertical and cross battens. Any other way is asking for trouble. That results in 50mm clearance between the sheet and the board which allows it to ventilate and try if you get any condensation on the underside. WeYou don't want to fully block the passage of air under the sheets for this reason. We got our sheets treated on the backside with an anti-condensation layer to help avoid that anyway. Cladco, the steel sheet supplier has some decent installation manuals on their website. Highly recommend. See my post below in how not to install corrugated sheeting. Very DIYable, wouldn't pay a roofer to do it next time when I do the car port. I'd recommend listening to @Cpd's posts as they are very helpful. My own tips are: - get the domestic screws and caps, we didn't know there were options and the commercial ones are quite obvious, even with caps. - you only need to cut sheets down to length. Don't cut along the length of you can avoid it. For windows, one sheet each side and then shorter sheets above and below, don't cut out the corner for the sheet to wrap around. Looks horrid. - use the right tool to cut the sheets (nibbler) and it is a breeze. Don't be and idiot and try with a recip saw... Very very bad cuts. - plan the spacing of your fixings ahead of time. It is really obvious if they aren't aligned or regular - don't trust trades when they claim they can do a job. Check their references, give them the supplier instructions, walk it through with them, check up on them, inspect the work as they go, get a paper trail via email... - ... Or just DIY this. Low skilled job provided flashings are in place along the edges of the sheets
  5. Am considering a similar setup and wondering whether it could be easier with Fermacell given you don't need the bead or skim... Hummm
  6. It is likely to be quite OTT, but I am very keen on acoustic solutions as I wake up with the slightest sound. I am even considering a layer between the two sheets of plasterboard to reduce transmission further
  7. Plan is the following setup with resilient bars, double board below and a membrane and acoustic mat above. Just hard to tell what is most suitable for the mineral wool given they vary so much in density.
  8. I'm just about to place an order and started to think about installation of our acoustic insulation between the posi joists... The Rockwool RW5 come as semi-rigid slabs - would I be doing myself over by trying to fit these between the posit joists, or are there better alternatives? Main aim is to stick to as dense a material as possible (100kg/m3) I'm less worried when it comes to the stud walls.
  9. Good advice @Nickfromwales. Thankfully the resilience bars are on their way so we will hopefully avoid that fate too!
  10. Ah, got you! Mistakenly assumed timber frame. Thanks Peter 😀
  11. Holy Moley, that picture looks like it was taken from my build. Uncanny. MBC passive and internorm perchance? 😀😀 I literally did my first wall the other day in the utility room with firmacell (1200x800), installed onto 18mm shutter ply so that made it relatively easy. Onto battens next, and so rises the learning curve. I am happy we went with the smaller one man boards. More to do, but they are easier to stagger with their 1:1.5 ratio and manoeuvre at height alone. Can confirm the screws should be threaded all the way along. The 30mm ones I have anyway. @PeterW why dryfix foam, and not just fix the reveal in place with screws? I'll be getting me some dust cyclones for certain! Anyone try the scorer? I found it to be quite underwhelming, requiring a lot of passes with force to get a deep enough groove in 12.5mm to snap off the peice. Any tricks? Going to get a cheap blade for the saw at any rate. Also for box holes, any good techniques? I've resorted to a recip saw to do the first one, but would prefer something a bit more accurate.
  12. We made an order for our bathrooms (~£4k) between this Christmas and New Years from Megabad. No issue with UK delivery. The customs duty is a hell of a worry though, shite!
  13. Specific heat capacity is all well and good, but useless without thermal conductivity from that mass to the rest of the house that also matches envelope losses/gains. If the conductivity is bad, you'll just have a very hot block of whatever with the rest of the house being unaffected. If the conductivity is super high, it'll dump that heat into the house faster than it can be lost. Nice sauna! Either way, it is unnecessarily complicated way of trying to setup a stable temperature as you've got to dynamically account for both boundaries over time (daily, with annual fluctuations). You're better off with a single boundary problem by focusing on the losses/gains via the external envelope alone. Then it becomes a much simpler problem of matching those losses/gains with some energy input such as via UFH or aircon. Thermal mass sounds good, but only focuses on one property of the material, where in reality thermodynamics has a lot more stuff also going on.
  14. We're not looking to skim, just FST it. Called up the Fermacell technical line and they said it was possible to integrate the beads with the joint filler rather than skimming. So I guess that leaves both options open. Though I am not convinced. I may go with the option without a bead to be honest, much less to joint fill in. Thanks @Alex C, that is about £6.19/m, better than the £8.98/m quoted for the AGS materials!