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About Visti

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  1. That should be an easier install as well I should think! I'll look at how we can build that into the counter battening before the cladding goes on. Thanks for that idea @Vijay!
  2. I hadn't even considered the PV run off given my focus on the roof and gutter, but that is a very good point! Thanks @JSHarris Thankfully we've brought the cladding up quite a way, but it still looks like it'd just shoot off over the edge. I may ask the question, but hesitant to unpack a new box of problems just now, hehe.
  3. The gutter has turned into a bit of a bodged design. Originally the eaves of the roof terminated at the box gutter height, but as we've had to push these up at the gable ends, we've had to increace the cladding height to match. That means A structural brace behind the cladding above the box gutter is required to support the top of the cladding There is no more opportunity for overflow over the out edge of the cladding as it'd take so much water before going over that the weight would become too risky Access to the box gutter is now constricted from the top, making maintenance difficult. I like your idea @JSHarris, so may use that as a tactic. Checked with my warranty provider and they don't really care about #3 after all! A bit of mesh above would do fine to prevent stuff from getting in. #2 is the big stopper, so we're going to have to put in some overflow outlets just above the down-pipes to accommodate H3 1.7... just another day, another change!
  4. I've looked at he H3 regs and can't find any requirements for access to clean the gutter. An issue with our design means we'll only have 30mm openning from the top between the roof and the edge. That seems like an issue to me, but nothing is stated in the regs, and there are few alternatives. Am I right to be worried?
  5. Varsten's timber has a premium of about 6-10% on Siberian over British. Not surprising give the generally denser property and extra logistics to get it here. Spruce is a good choice, but needs to be factory treated ideally in addition to paint which can negate it's affordability. Same with other types of softwoods such as fir and pine. Only larch or cedar from the softwoods can really get away with less TLC, making them a good balance between cost, longevity and maintenance.
  6. siberian larch and cedar are the two most popular around us at graven hill. English larch tends to be less ideal for external cladding as it is grown faster, resulting in a weaker material due to less dense growth rings. As it is already a soft wood that isn't ideal. Fir I have less experience in. We used siberian larch and got it from Mill Works at £3/m IIRC (you'll want to speak with Steven), hence we went with broader profiles to save on m2 costs. they can also supply the wood pained to any RAL colour. an additional £3/m. if your elevations are within 6m of your boundary (or center of the road for the elevation(s) facing the street), you'll need to consider fire protection on some or all the cladding material. thankfully this can be applied in the factory too at £3.50.
  7. In more general terms: The prices have gone up a lot at GH. Below are the prices of equivalent plots for each phase as I've been tracking them. 100k, Phase 0 (Pioneers, The Street) 230-250k, Phase 1A 300-315k, Phase 1B Given we paid £255k for 500m2 in Phase 1A, a golden brick of £62k, and actual already at £245k before getting weather tight... That leaves £20k remaining from our budget and we're not finished getting weather-tight. We'll be making no 'profit' as is typically marketed. And that I think is the point, and why GH's prices are high: People are so starved for land to build around here that they are willing to pay such high prices They don't want those who see the project solely as an investment I commend them on point #2 in particular, but it doesn't excuse foundation costs being x2-3 the norm nor the absolute inane bureaucracy they put in place. I'll stop there, GH does no good for my blood pressure!
  8. Hey @DarrenA, glad to see another one of us on here! It's Oliver from plot 156 btw. Come by for a chin wag if you fancy! A stunning design, can't wait to see it in person. The internal layout for the bedrooms is very similar to our own, which given it is square and near the same GIA as ours (184m2) just goes to show it's a fairly solid one too. Plot 290 IIRC? Walked by it today and could see you'd completed as you've moved in a whole bunch of plants in already. Even got a nice little house number painted on a stone too. Congratulations! Big step and hopefully now you can shake off GH and enjoy the project in earnest.
  9. If you want to blow/inject it, you could go for technitherm by isothane which is an expanding polyurethane. Great u value and quick to install but is expensive compared to blown beads As you have to get it installed by a licenced installer. There are other less expensive polyurethane foams out there, but depend on whether they are above or below DPC
  10. Below or above DPC? We went with EPS below for waterproofness, and cellulose above.
  11. A detail by our architect has lead us to an unfortunate situation where we need to pour our wet screed floor prior to the timber frame being erected (as some internal load bearing walls rest directly on it. As you can expect, no supplier would take responsibility for the finish of a pour that is exposed to the weather! We had hoped for good weather, but this next week is looking a lot like cats and dogs... So I'm hoping for some ideas of what I can do over the weekend to put in place some contingency... Would a plastic cover across the whole thing work immediately after a pour? a DIY canopy of some sort... Anything really. Or are we making a mountain out of a molehill? I should mention the foundation is 10x10m in size.
  12. Some fantastic tips @Cpd, above and beyond in detailing the details! We're about a month from installing our and also struggling to find competent contractors for both the corrugation and windows together. This gives me some confidence that we can get it right, even if it has to be DIY at the end of the day.
  13. @newhome those 10 are all complete as far as I am aware. Grand designs just decided they didn't want to wait any longer for the final homes to complete, and Graven Hill we're quite desperate for them to air for marketing purposes, meaning the tail end of some of the builds didn't make it in.
  14. Visti

    Fire Barriers

    As Ian says, it can be any material listed of the appropriate thickness that'll stop the fire progressing for at least 30min. I think the issue is less with Timber Frame vs Masonry construction, but rather more to do with how you clad it: Fire resistant material or render - you're ok. Timber - got to have a ventilated cavity It's the ventilated cavity that causes the added requirements, because you can't seal it off 100%... it's got to be ventilated right? At that point you've a cavity between the external wall and your cladding that will need a barrier around the structural openings (doors and windows) as per 6.3, but can't span the whole cavity due it needing ventilation. That is why we're using those barrier strips. If you're using fibre cement rather than timber cladding you should be fine as there'll be no cavity to consider.
  15. Visti

    Fire Barriers

    +1 on the envirograf ventilated cavity barrier strips. Having to install them around he perimeter of all SOs.