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Mike

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  1. It's good to 600pa, if correctly installed, which is roughly equivalent to a steady wind speed of 70mph. Consequently you may want some kind tray behind it if any water leakage could reach any moisture-sensitive materials, plus a secondary air seal (e.g. FM330 foam / tape).
  2. As per @Russell griffiths, if you're thinking of using aerated concrete blocks, they're better avoided. They are are notorious for cracking even when, in my experience, correctly using the recommended movement joints and bed reinforcement. Better to choose a medium density block instead. The only other block I know of that can take thin joint are Porotherm, but they have a different set of issues.
  3. Yes, rates per 1,000 bricks or m² are normal. Why? You can just measure how many m² of each there is.
  4. Yes, the tube. There is no doubt something less harmful, but not one I've used.
  5. That's good, but it's possible that the textured ceiling does contain a little. Worth getting a test done.
  6. Contact adhesive should do it - I've previously used Evostik.
  7. Don't create an internal structure - I'm with @Russell griffiths - insulate externally - those arches should definitely be on show! Plenty of opportunity for an interesting lighting scheme too. Hmm - never tired, but not sure how easy it would be to get a structural warranty on a 1930s structure (as opposed to on the new portion of the build). If it's been storing water I'd guess that the concrete may already be reasonably water-resistant? If so, then controlling any humidity is controlled through MVHR + breathable construction may be adequate.
  8. In interesting structure that may well outlast the house! Clad it as a roof, not a wall - for example by building a half-barrel vault / parabaloid over the face of it. Could be clad in black sheet metal or zinc (to match your cladding?) or planted as a green 'bank'. Otherwise, for brickwork, a company like Ancon could no doubt come up with a custom supporting structure.
  9. My understanding is that the Fire Safety Act 2021 clarified that the building owner is responsible for the fire-safety of the structure (which would, no doubt, include the floor & ceiling with the flat above yours), and the leaseholder is responsible for the fire door into the flat. I'm sure that it's more complex than that, but it may be worth checking it out. I doubt that it says anything about noise though.
  10. Mike

    Baywindow

    Yes, pretty silly design (only beaten by one I know that has a bay window that jets out at head level). Maybe they added it to prevent vehicles hitting the gas cabinet. Bollards seem like the solution.
  11. I agree that insulating externally would be ideal. At the least you should be able add warm roof external insulation above the flat roof. If insulating internally / between the timbers, add additional timbers to the existing external insulation to make space for thicker insulation. I don't have time to reply on air barrier & vapour control - plenty of threads on here discuss them anyway - but you do need an air barrier, don't need a vapour barrier, and may want a vapour control membrane. I wouldn't use wool insulation; if you want a natural product there's wood fibre insulation board, or preferably hemp (which has better vapour control properties) - for example https://hemspan.com/product/bio-wall-natural-fibre-hemp-insulation/.
  12. It's for my French renovation, so the supplier won't help much! However this looks very similar: https://www.corkstore24.co.uk/shop/11-thermal-and-sound-insulation-expanded-cork-boards/
  13. I'll soon be ordering 30 or 40mm cork board for my current refurb - it's waterproof, breathable and rigid enough to glue plasterboard to.
  14. ...which is exactly what the Zehnder can do in Eco mode, as mentioned rather more briefly above.
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