Mike

It does look fashionable - I've seen similar styles in several 'boutique' hotels over the past few years. Which probably means there's a new trend coming around the corner soon...

I'm not keen on either, but maybe that's because - in older homes - they've often been used to hide something. Maybe (if you have the budget) you could divert her towards decorative plaster finishes - Venetian / polished plaster / microcement / tadelakt?

I've build in single skin Flemish bond (using snapped headers) to match an extension to the existing, but on a modern looking new build stretcher bond would be normal.

They're referring to different circumstances. In particular A.8 is referring to the case when the ventilation pipe is separate from the soil pipe (the old way of doing it, before combined SVPs took over). As for a solution, I agree with the others above - vent at the STP, or via a convenient nearly garage / outbuilding.

After playing with glazing simulators, this spec provides the best sound resistance within a standard frame: 4mm standard laminated / 16mm cavity / 6mm acoustic laminated. See my post at https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/32665-further-sound-insulation-through-bookcases/#findComment-480975 for more. In my case they're fitted in oak frames & perform very well. If I had trickle vents, they would be a key weak point; see @JohnMo's suggestion above (though I'd want more information backing up the sound reduction they're claiming). Getting airtight seals on a vertical sliding sash would be another priority and maybe a challenge (I've not tried).

Either way is fine - there just needs to be a minimum 100mm overlap. And, in your sketch, it's the 'lower' DMP that's acting as the DPM; the polythene over the top of the insulation is a slip membrane to maintain separation between the insulation and the screed.

Yes, that's essentially the reason most modern machines are cold only; they use so little water that the hot water often won't reach the machine - it will just cool down in the pipe, so it's more energy efficient to use cold.

Ask him why he thinks that ASHPs make up over >90% of heat pump installations in Norway. https://openresearch.surrey.ac.uk/esploro/outputs/journalArticle/Current-status-of-heat-pumps-in/99822136002346

There was (notching the timbers so that the hangers are flush) but, from where you are now, counter-battening is your best option.

Filling in to one side would also spoil the symmetry of the roof, so I'd avoid it even if you could get permission. Leave it alone and enjoy the space as it is.

And I've a further thought too - what's been done at damp proof course level? There's a risk that it may have been damaged or become discontinuous - it need checking out.

The the copyright holder will be whoever - the company, or the person if there's no company - that created the drawings.

Agreed. You can't remove half of a sold brick wall and rebuild the removed half in new bricks as is currently being done; it's almost certainly not going be structurally safe. And, since you're not replacing like-for-like, you also need Building Regulations approval.

See also the previous discussion on this:

Yes, it probably is :)