Ian

Members
  • Content count

    228
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Ian last won the day on November 14

Ian had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

59 Good

About Ian

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    North of England

Recent Profile Visitors

350 profile views
  1. All Pumped Up ! :)

    Diagram below but it applies to your sewer too
  2. All Pumped Up ! :)

    Re Party Wall It will all depend on the relative depth of your neighbours foundations and your proposed new sewer(s). How well do you get on with your neighbours? If you are all on good terms with each other, once you have some proper idea of what you want to do you could explain it to them and ask if you could check how deep their foundations are. if your parents house and the neighbours house were built at the same time and are the same design it’s likely that the foundations will all be the same depth so you could possibly check your parents house first. On the road where my Mum & Dad live the ground is sand over a deep layer of peat. The older houses have shallow raft foundations but the newer ones all have very deep pile founds so you have to be a little bit careful making assumptions.
  3. All Pumped Up ! :)

    @Ed_MK also, as your new sewer pipes will be very close to your neighbours boundary and may be deeper than their house foundations you will need a Party Wall agreement with them in place before you start digging https://www.gov.uk/party-walls-building-works
  4. All Pumped Up ! :)

    @Ed_MK (typing this on a small phone screen so apologies in advance) some quick thoughts: 1) I’m guessing that the easement of 3m that Anglian Water mention would normally apply to a public supply - your pipe will be private so not subject to the same legal access requirements. You would normally lay the pipe to your boundary and they make the final connection. Having said all that it sounds like you now have the option of getting your water from the road on the opposite side which would be a good idea. 2) Foul sewer. You will need to find out the invert depth of the public sewer pipe at the point where you want to connect. This will be marked on a public record drawing that you should be able to access by making enquiries. You would normally be connecting to the nearest manhole located in the road next to your parents house. Once you have the invert level of that connection point you’ll be able to work out if you can get a normal gravity connection to it or whether you will need to have a pump. Foul pipes are normally 100mm diameter and fall at a gradient of about 1:40 so for a 50m run you will be dropping 1250mm just to get the fall you need on the pipe. Realistically therefore you will need the invert of the adopted sewer at the manhole in the road to be about 2M (or lower) below the level of your floor slab.
  5. @LadyBuilder I googled “Nudura One” and I see that it’s an option within their system for ICF with the insulated former on only one side which I can see could be useful for lift and stairwell walls. However, I’m not sure what you mean when you talk about omitting “100mm inserts”. What are the inserts and what are they made of?
  6. @TerryE @AliG your external wall design will normally be such that they are vapour open to the outside but vapour closed internally which means it's only the plaster that will be drying to the inside of the house so the bulk of the heat you're putting in will be forcing the structure moisture outward. Humidity shouldn't be a massive issue but it will take a long time to heat the house up because of the latent heat issue
  7. @AliG part of your problem is likely to be that the building is still drying out. Unless the walls and slab were completed over a year ago 600 tonnes of concrete means that there will be a hell of a lot of excess water that still needs to evaporate from the structure of your building. I agree with @Nickfromwales that you need to crank the heat up although I personally wouldn't recommend paraffin heaters as they release approx 1 litre of moisture vapour for every 1 litre of fuel burned. With a building like yours is at the moment you could create a bad problem with condensation.
  8. Tata Urban Colorcoat Metal Seam Roofing

    Is that grade 304 or 316 stainless steel?
  9. MBC Cellulose/PIR?

    Thanks for that - I've never used blown cellulose before in walls and assumed it would need something more solid than just a membrane to retain it.
  10. MBC Cellulose/PIR?

    Won't you need an extra layer of OSB or plywood with the blown cellulose option?
  11. @Ferdinand my new build 71sqM bungalow in Wales is now approx 1 year old. It's an EPC of C71. Heating is via bulk LPG. Its a holiday home so not really typical but the first full year of heating bills (Edit: inc cooking and hot water) came to about £170 of LPG which was 560 litres + the £60 standing charge for the tank rental. If I average the walls, roof and GF slab my U values are 0.15 and windows are 3G at 0.8. Air tightness is 3.7m3/(h.m2)
  12. Loft insulation

    It's usually recommended to get any existing wiring above the new insulation
  13. Make a phone call to the BCO and ask him what info he needs from you in order to issue his final completion certificate.
  14. Have you made your application for Building Regulations approval yet?