Ian

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Ian last won the day on July 15

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About Ian

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    Chartered Architect

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  1. Then it’s a ‘no-brainer’ to go with the 2G version. Winter is coming
  2. That all sounds very well organised - good luck to you!
  3. That's not correct. For a normal 2 storey house the only internal door that would need to be fire rated is a door between a garage and the house.
  4. I bought a load of treated decking planks and support joists a few weeks ago (north Cheshire) and only had to wait 1 week for delivery but the timber merchant told me that their warehouse was emptying as soon as a delivery arrived
  5. 3 years ago I built a 71sqM 2 double-bed bungalow for £96k. Timber frame construction with cedar cladding. The site was difficult on a 1:8 slope with poor access on a remote site in N Wales. The only ‘work’ we did ourselves was the decorating + I did all the drawings, PM work and coordinated subcontractors.
  6. Untreated redwood is classified as 'slightly durable'. The (untreated) timber species classified as very durable are the tropical hardwoods such as Iroko or Teak. An example of an environmentally friendly treated timber which is very durable is Accoya
  7. The main difference is durability. The chart below is Trada's guide and is measured using timber posts in contact with the ground. Oak is classified as durable and Siberian larch somewhere between slight & moderate durability. If you keep your fencing at least 150mm off the ground and it's used in an area where its well ventilated it will last a lot longer than indicated in the table.
  8. @Ferdinand Google do an App which is fantastic for auto identification: and this is a screen grab from the app after uploading the photo you posted:
  9. Yes, you need to talk to them but I’ve specified lots of it from different manufacturers over the last 30 years or so with no failures. By dry’ they mean no standing surface water. Surface preparation of the concrete is very important
  10. @Ann I’m an architect with 35 years experience. When it came to building our own house which had approx 65sq.m of ceramic floor tiles with UFH I specified the Schluter Ditra matting mentioned by @nod @Russell griffiths and @Pete We always specify it on our commercial projects and in my opinion it’s not worth the risk of not using it.
  11. The best liquid dpm products are epoxy based. There are lots of different manufacturers but here’s an example from Tremco: https://www.tremco-europe.com/en_GB/product/es300-surface-dpm/ you’ll need to check with the manufacturers technical department that it’s okay to use with the type of concrete that @Onoff identified for you.
  12. @Joe87 there are surface applied liquid dpm products available that you could use on top of that floor which would get rid of the issue of rising moisture affecting the new timber floor. There are also dimpled underlay mats that disperse any moisture to the edges of the room but I have less experience of those.
  13. @SuperJohnG The main Risk with a ceramic tile floor over UFH is cracking of the tiles. Obviously with LVT this is less of an issue (although It can still happen in larger commercial sites with big expanses of concrete floor where the floor cracks at day-joints). Compared to ceramic tiles however, vinyl and wood flooring is much more vulnerable to damage from concrete or screed that has not been dried out properly before the flooring goes down. I’ve seen whole vinyl floors fail on commercial projects due to the water-based adhesive emulsifying due to water migrating from the screed.
  14. for ventilated external rain screens the recommendation in BS5250:2016 is for a mesh size of 4mm.