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Ian last won the day on July 2 2018

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About Ian

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  • About Me
    Chartered Architect
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    North of England

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  1. Our bungalow is only 765sq.ft nerve wracking waiting for the test results isn't it! With ours I 'needed' a result between 3 and 5 m3/h.m2 @50Pa so 3.7 was ideal (For the SAP design calcs I'd committed to a value of less than 5 but also needed a value greater than 3 as the building is naturally ventilated. It's a holiday home that only gets used at weekends and, unlike most new-builds on this forum, it is built to minimum building regs requirements however total heating, hot water and cooking costs for the last 2 years averaged just £140/year using bulk LPG + standing charge.
  2. Most of the sewage treatment plants with air blowers use pumps that are also stocked by garden centre or online aquatic stores (the pumps are used for aerating garden ponds) That's where I bought the hose for ours and they sell it by the meter length.
  3. For anyone who is reading this who may be wondering what order of airtightness is normally achievable on a new build if you don’t use any special tapes or air tightness membrane I achieved a value of 3.7 m3/h.m2 @50Pa on a new-build timber frame bungalow. That’s without taking any special precautions regarding airtightness as the building is naturally ventilated (no MVHR).
  4. It’s certainly not a rubber stamp exercise if you’re simply aiming for min building regs compliance because failure to get the air tightness value set out in your initial design can really complicate things.
  5. I did a similar project on our house 6 months ago except the wall between the kitchen and dining room was load bearing. Also, I didn't do any window alterations (so no requirement for Planning Permission required for us). Have you got drawings to show what you're planning to do?
  6. I’ve got something similar in our house with a small change of level between the ceramic tiles in the kitchen and engineered timber floor in the adjacent room. I used an oak transition strip similar to this one: https://www.ambiencehardwoodflooring.co.uk/solid-oak-r-section-door-bar-threshold-ramp.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwrcH3BRApEiwAxjdPTSbKBoVh7D0zbKPVL2Kg7jpleCed4BVBKtD3bDZtbovpj3KSOLq9wRoCuUoQAvD_BwE
  7. It’s okay - don’t worry about it!
  8. Ian


    Best thing I’ve bought for sharpening chainsaw blades was this electric one from Clarke https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00719HR0Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
  9. white chippings would be the cheapest soloution as @joe90 described. Commercial projects use 'Big Foot' supports or this kind of thing https://www.roof-pro.co.uk/flat-roof-accessories/roof-walkway-system/ but they're overkill for your problem.
  10. The Secoh pump on our treatment plant is sited about 10M away in an above-ground enclosure with no issues. It's been running for over 3 years with no problems. [Edit - just looked up the model of pump and it's a Secoh JDK-S-60]
  11. A rule of thumb is that a bungalow will cost approx 15% more to build than the same size 2 storey house. link to good explanation: https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/how-form-affects-build-cost/
  12. @Dust Raker Vapour barriers come in different grades. For a domestic swimming pool you would need something like the one in the link below. https://www.icb.uk.com/file-uploads/Visqueen_HP_Vapour_Barrier_Datasheet_24_05_2013.pdf
  13. A good vapour barrier across the warm side of your walls and ceiling insulation is critically important. If attaching to a house try and make sure that you have the pool room negatively pressurised compared to the rest of the house to avoid the humid air migrating outside the pool room Chlorine rich humid air is highly corrosive so you will need to choose materials carefully for the pool room. Also, water sloshing around on the floor needs careful thought especially if you go for a level-deck pool design.
  14. a sh!t load of concrete poured into a hole
  15. @AnonymousBosch If you are DIYing the whole thing then it's likely that the design will be a bigger issue than the construction. Eg: that initial flight of stairs from the Building the Dream house in your photo doesn't comply with Part K of the Building Regs in numerous areas of its design. The risers & goings are all different from each other as well as being different from the timber section of the stair. The riser can't be vertical like that but should be angled as the diagram below from Part K. Also, the landing width is made non-compliant by the way in which the sides of the timber stair bears onto the concrete landing, obstructing the full width of the stair. The handrail is also non-compliant for numerous reasons but that's a separate issue.